toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
when going straight my right fron cv joint (i think would pop really bad, like rattle the car, eventually the left one did this too)
i replaced both and filled the tranny with gear oil. the tranny leaks the oil bc im guessing i should have replaced the seals on the tranny while pulling the cv joints out. anyway the car ran great with no sounds whatsoever out of the ordinary, now the popping started again. especially when turning left, popping that rattles the whole car, when the clutch is engaged. disengage the clutch and i just get a scraping sound while the car was rolling.
the scraping sound just came about as well. i just changed both front brake pads and there was none of that sound either. that started up when the popping started.
is it possible to fry cv joints up with my tranny leaking oil? what do you guys think is the prob. the cv joints are under warranty for a year and they were reman ones from autozone (i chose a good set some were eaten up)
basically the popping sound is going to get just as worse as it was when i replaced the old cv's. i have no idea how it could be the cv's bc they both have less than 500 reman. miles on them. 1/28/2006 9:46:04 PM |
underPSI tillerman 14085 Posts user info edit post |
you bought re-mans, didn't you? 1/28/2006 9:47:25 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
yeah from advanced. never had a prob with them b4. the popping started just this week. could damage occur from my tranny leaking oil to the cv's? causing shit to slip and making the popping? i dont think so but it doesnt hurt to ask. they have a warranty anyway so i think im straight. 1/28/2006 9:49:12 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
also i can be driving in a straight line and the popping will start going up hills and shit, just like last time, or giving it some extra gas. basically when a greater load is put on the tranny. but it's not the tranny making the noise, dammit i guess ill jsut replace the cv's 1/28/2006 9:50:32 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
are these the ones i put in? or you've replaced them with yet another set? they def. shouldn't be wearing out like that... fyi, i put new seals in also. your main trans leak was from where the case splits. the leaking gear oil won't have any affect on the joints, they're sealed w/ boots. 1/28/2006 9:53:26 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
the ones that u put in were the ones that started popping down the road really bad. actually the big bolt that mounts to the caliper with the cotter pins, both were loose causing the wheels to wobble. i tightened those up. when i did that i started to get popping from both cv joints which got worse and worse over time
i def. agree the cv joints should last longer than that i dont even beat on this car anymore. ill get around to replaced those seals one day. i have no idea why the fuck they would be fucking up so quick.
so yeah i replaced the ones u put in. they were in brand new condition still it was weird. but we took the tire off and put the car in gear when jacked up, the right front cv joint was wobbling round like a mofo.
[Edited on January 28, 2006 at 10:04 PM. Reason : asdf] 1/28/2006 10:03:33 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
Quote : | "actually the big bolt that mounts to the caliper with the cotter pins, both were loose causing the wheels to wobble." |
huh? you mean the nuts that thread onto the end of the cv shaft in the center of the wheel? those wouldn't cause the wheel to wobble, that's wheel bearings. those nuts don't determine wheel bearing preload. those being loose would just allow the cv shaft to slide in/out some.
[Edited on January 28, 2006 at 10:09 PM. Reason : ,]1/28/2006 10:08:47 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
it was the ones on the end, with the cotter pin. there's one per wheel (pretty sure it's the cv joint end like u said). i think what you said is correct. all i know is my dad and i tightened them up and put the tire back on, and the wheels didnt wobble anymore.
this is a new set of cv joints, not the ones you put on, i removed those (haha pulled the drivers side one out and popped half of the cv joint out. it was really fun getting that snap ring off. rofl can i say chisel? 1/28/2006 10:11:27 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
hmm, that's strange. that nut shouldn't have any affect on the wheels being tight that i can think of. anyway, sounds like you're getting some shitty joints. i'd demand my money back and try another brand. replace that POS carrier bearing mount too 1/28/2006 10:17:42 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
where's the carrier bearing? on the passenger side? my dad took that side off while i was at work, he sad about some kinda shit missing on it that he had to get forget what it was.
yeah i have a year warranty on the cv joints, ill replace them...again (well the right front one) next weekend.
it's fun to tear this shit apart, but at the same time such a bitch . 1/28/2006 10:20:00 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
yeah, it mounts to the block on the passenger side. it was missing some of the support brackets. 1/28/2006 10:27:25 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
get some new, not reman axles from carolina motor parts. we had one car at our shop we put 3 reman carquest axles and one advance axle in and had similar problems, even sent it to a trans shop to be sure we hadnt missed something, then put a new carolina axle in it and it did fine.
[Edited on January 29, 2006 at 11:20 AM. Reason : ^ that will definately cause some vibration, isnt that part of the rear engine mount too?] 1/29/2006 11:19:53 AM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
i kinda have to stick with the reman ones for now, since i have the warranty and all. i might as well take my chances on a decent set, compared to farting 120 dolla in the wind. 1/29/2006 11:21:47 AM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
most new ones at our cost from carolina are less than $100 and they are the best damn thing since sliced bread, i'm not sure what the markup is though, they also have good quality dirt cheap brake rotors there, thats about all we ever order from them
[Edited on January 29, 2006 at 11:24 AM. Reason : and take those back to advance and get your money back, tell em they suck] 1/29/2006 11:23:49 AM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
^what's dirt cheap for the rotors? less than 20 bucks? 1/29/2006 2:37:37 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
front rotors for my 01 silverado were 16.27 each retail was around 29 i think, still holding up fine after the second set of pads, barely had to take .006 off when i turned em to true them up after the first set. advance wanted $42 for them 1/29/2006 2:49:33 PM |
zxappeal All American 26824 Posts user info edit post |
I do have to say fuck Advance, but as far has half shafts go, all I've ever used was reman, and I've had reasonably good luck with them. Never had a defective one, and never really had one leak...unless the whole damn thing popped outta the tranny because somebody didn't stick it in good. 1/29/2006 4:43:52 PM |