ok, so if i finally bite the bullet and go with a semi floating 14 bolt rear, and i manage to find one with the JH6 disc brakes, assuming i can find the right width:

1. should i swap my master cylinder? it has JH6 front, JC5 rear right now on the 10 bolt
2. how in the blue fuck am i gonna get a 8 lug to 6lug adapter to work with rear discs?
3. someone link me to a late model chevy axle code breakdown so i can figure what i need to go shopping for, i'm lazy

[Edited on December 28, 2006 at 9:30 PM. Reason : alldata has failed to give me correct axle codes]

12/28/2006 9:29:24 PM

if you're doing semi floating, those come in 6 lug anyway. no worries about an adapter. i wouldn't be real concerned about finding one with discs either. swapping discs on in place of drums is easy and cheap. you can even retain an ebrake if you care about it by using cadillac eldorado calipers. your stock mc should be fine. iirc, larger gm mc's are a bolt in swap though.

12/28/2006 9:57:45 PM

if you have bias problems, you can install an inline adjustable proportioning valve and correct it that way. but really, i dont see what harm the drums would be. that is, unless you arent good at setting them up. haha

12/28/2006 10:01:18 PM

SF come in 6 and 8 lug

caddy calipers suck balls. dont get me started. all the hours ive spent bleeding and cycling ebrakes and bleeding again on customers doing rear disc swaps...grrr...

stock MC should be ok

12/28/2006 10:02:15 PM

so, 9.5 or 14T 10.5? the 14T has small hubs and is a FF, as opposed to a SF 9.5, but may be harder to find, with the 9.5 i should be able to use my existing brakes, and it will be an easy swap, but i still have c-clips, but 30 spline 1.875 axles.

i think i am going out to find a 14 bolt 9.5" semi floater, its a broad application and an easy swap, i can use 6 lug wheels, my old disc brakes, and its a much stronger axle

however, i doubt i can find one with 4.56's already, so i gotta figure in rebuilding and changing gears, and i still need to regear he front axle too

any good junkyards around here with late model trucks? 76-06 will work, but i prefer a 99-06 axle if i can find one cheap

[Edited on December 28, 2006 at 10:12 PM. Reason : i already have disc brakes on the 8.6" axle that will work with the 9.5" i believe]

12/28/2006 10:11:28 PM

just cryo the diff and shafts in the little fisher price axle you have now and say fuck it

12/28/2006 10:16:54 PM

as much as i hate to admit it, i busted a c-clip yesterday and had to limp it back home with the caliper holding the axle in and replace it last night, and yes i carry spare clips and spider gears, the 9.5 14 bolt SF is lookin like a solid swap, i just gotta find one for a reasonable price around here, i will be putting new bearings gears and a locker in it, so one that is shot to shit will work just fine

12/28/2006 10:21:25 PM

why couldnt GM have gotten their shit straight? i think c clips are retarded.

12/28/2006 10:25:37 PM

^^just weld the thing, 14b carriers are strong enough. much more predictable than a mechanical locker too. i concur that the 9.5 is going to be your best bet. you could probably score factory 4.56's cheap enough from somewhere, especially now that 5.13's are on the market.
^c-clips aren't that bad if you've got an axle with decent shafts. a 10 bolt isn't that axle... nor is a dana 35 for example. however, a chrysler 9.25, 8.75, etc. is.

[Edited on December 28, 2006 at 10:36 PM. Reason : .]

12/28/2006 10:34:12 PM

ARB AIR LOCKER FOR THE WINZ

12/28/2006 10:41:19 PM

C-Clip axles are a really good idea from the ease of manufacturing and assembly approach, and they perform just fine for 90% of the general public.

Hell, the wheel bearing design on the 10-bolt axles is another really good idea from the ease-of-assembly and cost-cutting-manufacturing perspective. Sure, they suck when they groove your axles, but again, for 90% of the general public, they'll never be a concern.

Those two factors are a big reason why the 10-bolt axle is Chevy/GMC's bread-and-butter axle design.

12/28/2006 10:42:06 PM

ok, so i gotta track down a 9.5" 14 bolt axle, no idea about the price

4.56's for the rear $180-$200
master rebuild/install kit for the rear + wheel bearings & seals, and full spider kit (yes open rear to keep it streeable) $250-300
front gears $180-200
front install kit $40

so about $700 + an axle aint bad, + a weekends worth of work

12/28/2006 10:59:56 PM

get you a detroit to keep it streetable. im a noob but imagine itll be a lot more fun with a locker pushing that long ass wheelbase up some big rocks.

12/28/2006 11:04:44 PM

^^a locked rear is perfectly streetable. you'd hardly notice it with 37's and your wheelbase...
^i had a detroit in my stock rear axle, and honestly i prefer a spool/welded rear on the street. mechanical lockers pop/bang alot, and will unload for no good reason at times jerking the vehicle one way or the other. you gotta be wary of them in wet weather and snow, especially in a truck without weight over the tires.

[Edited on December 28, 2006 at 11:08 PM. Reason : .]

12/28/2006 11:05:57 PM

i'm not so sure keith will be wheelin over some big rocks. i think at most he'll probably do uwharrie, which on 37's shouldn't be too bad. open would be fine but a detroit would be nicer

12/28/2006 11:06:16 PM

I'd get a locker if I had yer shitpile, Keith. Hell, I'd consider gettin' one for my Dana 70, bein' that it's an easy install.

12/28/2006 11:07:01 PM

thats a lot of extra $ if anything i will keep the orinal spider geras in there and put a locker in later, i dunno, depends on how my cashflow is lookiin by the middle of the month

[Edited on December 28, 2006 at 11:08 PM. Reason : still need some good junkyard suggestions from yall jew nigger bitches]

12/28/2006 11:07:07 PM

i want to see what that ladder rock does to the trails LOL

12/28/2006 11:08:03 PM

it goes whooo-whoooo, and it comes off in like 5 min with a half dozen people helping

12/28/2006 11:08:59 PM

a miller/lincoln/hobart/etc. locker is FREE or hell, even a lock rite is what, maybe 200 bucks or so for a 14b? spools even cheaper. full case detroits are kinda $$, and not really neccessary when you've got a beast carrier.

12/28/2006 11:10:49 PM

Quote :

"even a lock rite is what, maybe 200 bucks or so for a 14b"

try $400

12/28/2006 11:13:23 PM

I have a beast carrier. Even the Detroit is a drop in for me.

12/28/2006 11:13:46 PM

^^weird. must be their most exspensive application...
^not the "real" detroit. it's a full case locker. you must be thinking of the ez locker...

[Edited on December 28, 2006 at 11:17 PM. Reason : .]

12/28/2006 11:14:36 PM

SHIEEET i bet its 3x as much for a rover

12/28/2006 11:15:23 PM

http://tinyurl.com/ym47ek
interesting


http://tinyurl.com/yb2geo
drool


http://tinyurl.com/yk87am

hmmm

http://tinyurl.com/yjcyel

lets hope there are some 9.5's out there cheap like this

http://tinyurl.com/yguqha

also a cheap option, but i need an axle first

[Edited on December 30, 2006 at 10:15 AM. Reason : psi]

12/28/2006 11:33:27 PM

to hell with that idea, couple places around here had em, but they want $850-1000 for a 14 bolt semi floater 99-06 with disc brakes, then you tack on another $200 for gears and thats way more than i want to put into it right now, i'll probably put that off till the summer or until i find a good deal on one

12/29/2006 2:48:49 PM