peakfan09 Veteran 130 Posts user info edit post |
getting ready to change the oil for the first time in my 91 cherokee with a 4.0 inline 6 cyl w/ ~90,xxx miles
checked the manual and it says to use either 5w-30 for temps -20 to 100+ or 10w-30 for 0 to 100+, i'm capable of changing the oil in my own car and i have on every occasion, but i've never had a vehicle that listed options for oil viscosity
so the question is, which one is better, it says for best fuel economy and cold starting (not a huge problem being almost summer) use the lowest viscosity, but i also want maximum engine protection. what do you guys recommend?
[Edited on March 27, 2007 at 9:21 PM. Reason : ] 3/27/2007 9:19:31 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
10-30 3/27/2007 9:30:48 PM |
Hurley Suspended 7284 Posts user info edit post |
either. 3/27/2007 9:31:17 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
whatever came out..
your motor is used to it.
i'd say 10w30
btw i find it funny that my 99 has 1.5 times the miles of your 91 and i haven't been able to drive for 8 months. 3/27/2007 9:33:44 PM |
Hurley Suspended 7284 Posts user info edit post |
you boast, sumfoo1 3/27/2007 9:38:12 PM |
peakfan09 Veteran 130 Posts user info edit post |
^^ i just bought it about a month ago and i don't know what the previous owner used
the motor is not the original inline 6, the truck itself has 200,xxx miles 3/27/2007 9:48:32 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
i do not boast.
the inability to drive for a caroholic like myself is... cruel and unusual i'd love to have a 90k mile motor in mine. i'm thinking about a stroker but being its all obdII and shit i don't know of anyone who can tune a stock jeep ecu. 3/27/2007 9:52:43 PM |
Hurley Suspended 7284 Posts user info edit post |
you 4.0 guys... haha, the stroker would be badass tho. 3/28/2007 1:04:54 AM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
^^there's a number of people who could do a custom tun/flash. you might not even need one depending on the rest of your setup. chrysler's obdII software has fairly broad parameters. JeepinMatt has a stroker in his tj, which i'm almost positive is of an obdII year.
my ram (which is also a 99) has a pristine ~70k on it.
[Edited on March 28, 2007 at 1:39 AM. Reason : ,] 3/28/2007 1:37:44 AM |
stopdropnrol All American 3908 Posts user info edit post |
i ussally run 5w-30 during the winter time then as soon as it gets 70 or so i switch it back to 10w-30. with the mother nature and her mood swings i think i've gone back and forth maybe twice now.
[Edited on March 28, 2007 at 1:44 AM. Reason : .] 3/28/2007 1:44:28 AM |
gk2004 All American 6237 Posts user info edit post |
10-30 3/30/2007 7:17:49 PM |
hgtran All American 9855 Posts user info edit post |
I don't think the temperature in NC is low enough to justify using 5-30. 3/30/2007 7:26:20 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
if i pull the motor i'm going all out on this beast i've already done long arms and am thinking about ordering currie 9" axles with dana 60 knuckles
its funny how i start to have money for a car hobby right when i can no longer drive
bbr do you know what you need to program the jeep ecu? i'd really like to pull a maximadriver and
catch my jeep on fire
use turbos to small for a lawn mower try to build a turbo setup @ home 3/30/2007 8:06:52 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
i imagine any reputable shop that does dyno tuning could do it. a custom tune is going to be the best way to go with that sort of build. you could use some sort of piggyback deal like the apexi safcII or something, but it's really a band aid.
i've heard that b&g chrysler will do custom flashes for them also. they do excellent work with dodge stuff.
i would really do a dyno tune though. anything else is just average at best when you're talking about going all out on a build.
a turbo setup would be a nice horsepower compliment to a stroker's torque, but pretty useless off road.
Quote : | "i've already done long arms and am thinking about ordering currie 9" axles with dana 60 knuckles " |
why? i've never understood why people pay that kind of money for something that is marginally better than a regular one ton. not enough advantages ot justify the cost imo.3/30/2007 8:30:18 PM |
theDuke866 All American 52839 Posts user info edit post |
Quote : | "a stroker in his tj, which i'm almost positive is of an obdII year." |
all TJs are OBDII. the TJ came out in '97.
(unless you swap an older non-OBDII engine into a TJ, of course)3/30/2007 8:35:18 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
true, didn't even think about that. 3/30/2007 8:36:36 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
you can build a turbo setup for torque... damn why does everyone think all you get with turbos is lag Just look at diesels if you sized a diesel turbo the same way you do a hp oriented gas engine turbo it would never spool the damned thing.
and then you have the jetta 1.8t w/ 5 valves and dohc it should love high rpms but due to its dinky turbo it chokes up top but builds boost very early especially for a 1.8liter.
sizing and charts people pick your turbo for your powerband
i just figured while i have the bottom end apart might as well throw in some nice forged pieces and get some power out of it.
a gt35r should spool around 1900 rpm on a stroker and be capable of high 4xx rwhp thus PLENTY OF TORQUE and a near flat hp curve
] 3/30/2007 8:54:57 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
i realize you can, that wasn't my point. in most situations a turbo is pointless on an off road vehicle, no turbo in the world will spool/boost low enough for any noticeable difference. unless you're pre running in the desert, on dunes, or a mud racer... two of which aren't anywhere near nc.
diesels aren't really comparable to a gas motor. exhaust pressure is alot higher due to the crazy compression numbers they run which aids alot in spooling. even at that, the vast majority of td's do have a fair amount of lag, despite spooling at low rpms (compared to a gas motor). 3/30/2007 9:09:29 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Yeah i know and their compression induced ignition is way way retarded compared to gasoline engines if you keep the injectors going it almost works like anti-lag 3/30/2007 9:27:36 PM |
Hurley Suspended 7284 Posts user info edit post |
I dont know too much about turbos/offroading - but for having a turbo on an offroading/rock crawling scenario, the design intent would be for damn nigh off-idle building of boost? 1900rpm seems pretty reasonable for hitting boost in an offroading situation (at least for a jeep I-6) and would seem to produce reasonable power... but how many of these guys are running a turbo setup - isnt it only a few (some on the toyota 22re...something or another turbo model???, an then a few other random fuckers with turbos) that actually do it. It seems that a turbo setup would either be a revolution (or total overkill with the right gear reduction) or a flop.
(bear in mind I've been drinking and this is my ramblings and this is possibly a total waste of a post) 3/31/2007 12:32:27 AM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
it's kinda hard to explain if you've never done much (real) 4 wheeling. even if you're at high enough rpms to spool the turbo, you're not neccessarily using enough throttle input to create much boost if that makes any sense. engine load has alot to do with creating boost, and due to the low gearing it's a rare occasion that you see hammer down/engine loaded/higher rpm situations. especially if you're running aftermarket t-case gears, doublers, etc.
i'm aware of no one in competetive rock crawling that runs a turbo. there might be, i just can't think of anyone off hand.
the toyota motor you speak of is a 22ret. factory turbo setup that was offered in 1st gen. 4 runners and 2nd gen. mini trucks. 3/31/2007 12:45:09 AM |