anyone ever done this? i picked up a new leatherman wave a few days ago and saw online that they offered a black oxide version...i don't care enough to try to find one locally or order online, but i was curious about the process and whether or not you could use it with something like a multi-tool that's put together already

also curious as to whether it's even worth the effort in terms of rust protection (i'm sure good oiling and care is much more effective in the long run, but every little bit helps, i would think)

9/28/2009 5:45:47 PM

I've blued rifle barrels...nothing to it really. I've probably still got the chemicals around here somewhere.

9/28/2009 7:03:28 PM

^ did you do hot or cold? did you just do steel (potassium nitrate and sodium hydroxide) or stainless steel (nitrates/chromates)?

9/28/2009 8:15:26 PM

My leatherman wave spent a year in the bottom of a jeep with no doors. it has some very light surface rust that comes off with a good scrubbing. i wouldnt worry too much about rust.

9/28/2009 8:45:37 PM

eh, it's not worrying about it so much as general curiosity

9/28/2009 9:04:01 PM

you are a fag BTW

9/28/2009 9:54:56 PM

^ no worries, sugar, it happens to all guys and i'm mad at you for it

9/28/2009 10:08:33 PM

Only steel can be parked, not stainless. You're supposed to use a stainless tank because it *doesn't* react.

If we're talking about real parkerizing, which is not the same as bluing, then it is absolutely a hot process. Real bluing is also a hot process, but there are some less durable cold blue alternatives out there.

It's not terribly cheap and it's not easy to get set up, so if you just want to chem-coat something steel for protection, I would get some Brownells oxpho-blue or similar and oil the crap out of it with CLP when you're done.

9/30/2009 9:27:33 AM

just plate it

10/19/2009 3:04:16 PM

its stainless, leave it alone ?

10/19/2009 5:16:58 PM

Even stainless will pit or rust in the presence of certain contaminants. Exposure to lots of carbon or even standard steels can lead to intergranular corrosion. What keeps stainless from oxidizing is the microthin layer of chromium oxide present. One reason many stainless steels are pickled and have a dull finish.

10/19/2009 9:50:13 PM

or passivated, as we engrineers like to say, we use teflon lined stainless on our chlorate, chlorine, and methanol systems, and i have seen the stainless pipe eat away exposing the liner from external leaks on it in a matter of months

most strong acids and caustics, we just use plain old carbon, it holds up better, due to stress corrosion cracking at welds on stainless

10/19/2009 10:47:40 PM

If the damn welders learned to minimize heat time, then localized stress cracks on stainless wouldn't be so much of an issue.

Yessir, passivating. Either using phosphoric acid, or the new "green" approach is to use citric acid, believe it or not.

10/19/2009 10:52:02 PM

phosphoric works well on surface rust on carbon steel too, like after sandblasting, let it get moist, flash rust and spray, it forms a damn tough, inert primer

10/21/2009 10:07:59 AM