Anyone heard of these?

Looking at a 2 piece with aluminum hats

9/14/2010 11:33:02 AM

I'm taking it you're gonna track yer car? Is this GTO stuff or what?

If you are continually having problems warping rotors or the like, then maybe it's worth it...otherwise, I'd stick with ball milled or slotted rotors.

I'm thinking molycarbide is just another take on nodular iron. Molycarbide is a patented formulation for ductile iron (which is nodular or spherical iron), and I'm betting that the molybdenum is used as a nodularizing agent (creating microspheres of a carbide instead of the planar flakes that graphite often produces in cast iron...which is what makes cast so brittle).

If they are relatively cheap in comparison to cryotreated or slotted rotors, then maybe I'd consider them. Otherwise, I'm not too sold. Not yet.

9/14/2010 1:10:38 PM

I'm considering doing a track day with a co-worker. The current GTO rotors are warped to hell, seems like people have them warp every 12-20k miles (my grand am did the same thing).

I can get some cheapy blanks for about 120 a set, these molycarbide rotors with pads (street) are right around 400... so there is a premium, however, if they don't warp all to hell.

I thought about going slotted/drilled, but it seems like they warp and break even more than the blanks.

The other option would be DBA's but they are more expensive, and seem to be basically standard rotors, and their 2 piece are even more expensive.

The cheap option is to get these turned, and just hope for the best, but I could be a tester for the molycarbide rotors (first fitment on a GTO)

9/14/2010 1:18:38 PM

tracking a gto

9/14/2010 2:13:44 PM

I wouldn't even think about turning your current rotors...there's just not enough meat on them to justify it. They'll warp again in no time at all.

Slotted rotors do tend to warp faster than blanks, due to lesser material to conduct heat away (and that's what gives the stock ones suck a short life anyway).

9/14/2010 2:39:44 PM

Yea, if i was really really going to spend some time doing anything serious a BBK would be in line, but the other problem with the BBK is that you have to ditch the factory 17s, which I like being able to have as a second set of rims.

9/14/2010 3:27:41 PM

whats wrong with c5 brakes?

9/14/2010 3:52:07 PM

Have fun man, but a track day with a 4000 lb (give or take) car makes me cringe. Brakes and tires are gonna be tortured

9/14/2010 9:21:06 PM

its bad enough to autoX in those things i can just see the understear at a track day.


good luck and post pics of the set up

9/15/2010 12:10:30 AM

There are a few guys who track them, seems like the most common problems are brake fade (which can be fixed with better pads/fluid replacement).

I'm not saying its going to feel like a miata or even my ms3, but it would be fun.

I don't think understeer is going to be a problem

[Edited on September 15, 2010 at 9:19 AM. Reason : dd]

9/15/2010 9:19:12 AM

And it only weighs about 3700 pounds...it could be worse.

9/15/2010 10:56:31 AM

True

9/15/2010 11:38:10 AM

Quote :

"(which can be fixed with better pads/fluid replacement)"

after a few events.

9/15/2010 1:43:23 PM

Jhansi yes this is how one fixes brake fade

9/15/2010 1:49:30 PM

Tracking my brothers LS2 GTO at VIR was a blast. Oak Tree and Nascar kinda sucked, but nothing could beat booming up the esses with all of that power. I let off before the top of the hill before Rollercoaster at 135. Too much pucker on worn street tires to go faster.

That being said, its a pig at CMP. That is das E30 territory.

Dont worry about going all out if you dont think you are going to keep tracking it. Bleed, put better pads on it (EBC yellows I hear are good for that car, bro ran HP+ at CMP when he was HPDE 1), and prepare to sacrifice some sidewalls. Rotate tires mid-event to stay consistent. The rotors are good for turning if it is an LS2 car; we destroyed the rear (stock) pads at VIR to the backing plates and the grooves turned out well above minimum.

For best bleeding results, bleed, put everything back together, engage ABS a few times on the street, then rebleed. There can be residual fluid in the pump that is crap. This is a GTO thing.

Your rotors probably just need to be rebedded correctly to eliminate judder.

Have fun!

9/15/2010 8:52:02 PM

^Definitely agree on properly bedding pads. Can't just stomp the hell out of them out of the box. I still stand by the fact that the rotors will likely warp in short order after turning them, though.

CMP is murder on ANYTHING heavy...and is pretty challenging even with a shitbox Honda.

9/15/2010 9:09:24 PM

i like the motherfuckers pipin up like they got years of track time and anteck's tryin to win lemans in a pontiac. any rotor you get will be fine for learning. most people learning the limits of their cars have no idea the limits of braking anyway. a decent pad and fresh fluid is all you need and then enjoy. If you find yourself pushing the limits of the car in one way, there's bound to be about 987434297438927 other things you can work on with your remaining seat time, like line selection, throttle control, managing weight transfer, etc etc. just get safe equipment on the car and have fun. if it's your first event I doubt you'll be passing anyone anyway.

[Edited on September 16, 2010 at 1:48 AM. Reason : .]

9/16/2010 1:37:40 AM

Most "warping" is actually uneven deposits. If you're actually warping rotors with street driving, well that doesn't sound encouraging.

Anyway, get decent pads front AND rear -it'd be much worse to upgrade only the front as that will change the brake bias further forward, putting even more heat into them. Common practice is to go slightly more aggressive compound in the rear to both balance the braking, and take a bit of load off the front brakes. Also, do the fluid. If cooling can be improved easily, that's worth doing.

Above all, go out to the track, even on stock equipment. Just don't expect to pass a HYPE-R


[Edited on September 16, 2010 at 4:53 AM. Reason : <3]

9/16/2010 4:45:17 AM

right now the car shakes during breaking, its not violent yet, but i presume its not good for the suspension and steering components.

Looking around new decent rotors (raybestos or napa) are about 110 a piece, and pads are between 90-110.

for just the front. I wont be spending much more money.

9/16/2010 1:19:49 PM

if you still have your sport bike, you should track that instead. much more fun.

9/16/2010 6:25:36 PM

^^if the car already shakes a bit under regular braking you'll DEFINITELY want to have that corrected before going to a track.

9/17/2010 12:09:49 AM

^^

9/17/2010 1:41:10 AM

Again the bike would def but something primary, i just thought it would be fun.

And there is no way in hell i would think about taking it to the track without new brakes and better tires.

9/20/2010 11:44:31 AM