right now i've got the '98 4wd extended cab dakota w/ a 3.9L and 160k miles. it'll pull my 17' boat, but it really puts a strain on the truck. i keep the boat at a campground at the coast and a lot of the time i launch at the boat ramp at the campground, but sometimes i'll trailer it 30-45 mins and maybe a max of an hour. other than that, i'll only have to haul it between goldsboro and the campground a few times a year. i also hunt right much and the dakota is pretty good for getting through the fields to get a deer and haul around treestands and stuff.

so, the dakota runs great and i like it, but i think i'd like to have a full size truck to pull the boat with. would you get a full size or just tough it out with the small engine and small brakes? do i get a 2wd full size and keep the dakota? get a full size 4wd, sell the dakota, and get a beater to save on gas? full size 2wd, an ATV, and a beater?

what would you do?

[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 7:50 PM. Reason : i currently live about 3.5 hrs from the campground. prob only be here a year. idk where after that]

7/6/2011 7:49:03 PM

lol my rule of thumb is get a diesel... it'll get about the same mileage as the dakota unloaded... and loaded it will kick its ass.


just my 0.02

7/6/2011 7:53:42 PM

i need dr. pepper and company to shoehorn a cummins in the dak

[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 7:59 PM. Reason : i get about 16 in the dak. about 10 mpg w/ the boat.]

7/6/2011 7:58:06 PM

you could get a 3/4 ton diesel for <$5k and haul whatever but, is a 3.9L v6 really "small" ? how much does your boat weigh? also have you considered putting brakes on the boat trailer (not sure how that works if the wheels and brakes have to be submerged to launch)

7/6/2011 7:59:22 PM

i haven't had a chance to go by the feed mill and see what the boat weighs yet. it's not a whole lot.

i'm not fucking with trailer brakes. not worth the hassle.

for reference:



[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 8:04 PM. Reason : daf]

[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 8:05 PM. Reason : i'm kinda worried about the transmission. i use the OD off button when i tow.]

[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 8:16 PM. Reason : they spec'd this 3.9 at 175 hp and 4900 lbs towing capacity i think]

7/6/2011 8:03:15 PM

that boat/trailer combo probably weighs around 2000-2500 lbs fully fueled. your truck should be able to handle it easily and should not be "straining". yes, you probably know it's back there when it's hooked to your truck whereas i wouldn't know if it were hooked to mine but i doubt it's straining your truck. taking a random guess i'd say your truck is good for 5000 lbs easily. smart to not tow with o/d on. if you like the truck keep it. however, if it doesn't already have one i suggest investing in a trans cooler. they don't cost much and probably cost the same to install if you don't do it yourself.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-45261/

7/6/2011 8:14:19 PM

alright cool. i'll just drive this thing til it falls apart. it ain't worth shit nowadays anyway.

[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 8:24 PM. Reason : i think it has a trans cooler. not sure, actually.]

7/6/2011 8:24:09 PM

How's your money sitchalation? That's the biggest indicator, but if you plan on towing anything larger than that boat in the future I'd go for a full-size. bear in mind a diesel that gets 20mpg cost as much on a daily basis as a gasser that gets 16mpg.

fwiw my dad has a 95 reg cab short bed 2wd, 3.9... been pulling ~2k lawnmower trailer every summer for many years with no trans issues. his deal - like psi said - run it locked out of OD, and keep it around 55-60 (sumbich'll hum). if you're going to be doing limited towing I would keep good PM on the dak, and roll on.

7/6/2011 9:20:04 PM

well, i just bought the boat a few months ago, so my fun monies are running low, but i could have enough to purchase a half ton like i'd want in 9-12 months. i'm trying to get my truck situation straightened out so that when i get permanently assigned for work, wherever that may be, i can get crackin on a down payment on a house.

i'll keep running the dak and saving truck money for now and i'll keep an eye out for a deal. i guess i really just needed some reassurance that pulling that boat won't necessarily cause it to shit the bed. like your dad, i don't get over 60 mph when i'm pulling the boat with it, as much as they may suck in that long 70 mph stretch of hwy 70 b/w kinston and new bern.

so, after i get something else, what kind of awesome can we cram under the hood of the dak?

7/6/2011 9:34:01 PM

Quote :

"like your dad, i don't get over 60 mph when i'm pulling the boat with it, as much as they may suck in that long 70 mph stretch of hwy 70 b/w kinston and new bern."

you can run 70mph just fine. you can even put it in O/D when running up to speed. the reason it's suggested not to tow in O/D is a lot of time the transmission will hunt for a gear because of the low rpm's and added weight. if you're running a consistent 70mph the rpm's will be up high enough it should stay in O/D. if you notice it constantly dropping back down to 3rd turn O/D off. i really think your truck will do fine other than you might have to replace the carrier bearing in the rear differential a couple of times but you'll have to do that anyway even if you don't tow.

i see you just bought this boat. not sure if this is your first time frequently trailering but i can't emphasize enough to check the tire pressures on the trailer! make sure they are at max psi when cold. towing a trailer for extended drive times even with the air pressure just 10psi low can shred the piss out of them. also, if the tires are more than 10 years old regardless of tread they need to be replaced now. something else i recommend you buy if the trailer isn't already equipped is bearing buddys. they eliminate the need to repack wheel bearings. i recommend going ahead and replacing the bearings even if you don't want to add the bearing buddys. it sucks when you have a wheel bearing come apart or tire shred on your trailer when you are on the way to the beach especially when the preventative maintenance is so easy. it never happens when you are on the way home. the bearing buddys can be had for $15/pair at agrisupply in garner.

http://www.bearingbuddy.com/

[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 10:06 PM. Reason : -]

7/6/2011 10:04:44 PM

i put a few shots in the bearing buddies and check the tire pressures everytime it hits the highway. this is my first boat of this size of my own, but my dad taught me the same stuff and he made me grease his bearing buddies and check his boat trailer tire pressures every time. at 12 years old, i thought it was kinda dumb, but now i'm glad he made me develop those habits.

7/6/2011 10:12:44 PM

Chris you know you better get a ford.

7/6/2011 11:47:58 PM

Quote :

"what would you do? "

I'd do something, then I'd sell and try a different approach 6 months down the road, then I'd do something different still, and continue this process for many years on end without even approaching any sort of resolution, but having a good time and turning a profit with a boatload of cool toys along the way.

7/7/2011 12:56:23 AM

Quote :

"so, after i get something else, what kind of awesome can we cram under the hood of the dak? "

solid axle swap & LSx with a paddle shifter 4l80e behind it!

7/7/2011 7:20:54 AM

Keep what you got. That boat aint that heavy and that truck should have no problem pulling it. I towed my Kencraft 215 for 2 years with a 4cyl tacoma with no problems. And that was greenville to morehead like every other weekend. Full of fuel its probably pushin 6500 lbs easy on the trailer and the clutch never even went out after 130k miles!

7/7/2011 10:31:28 AM

The boat is ~1400, engine around 400, rest of installed gear around 300-350, fuel would be 250lbs. The trailer itself will be 600lbs. I definitely see how you are going to struggle with the 3.9l in a Dakota on longer hauls. We have a 99 Dakota 4x4 w/ 5.2l and you definitely feel my boat back there when going down the road (19.5ft McKee w/ t-top, 4 batteries, trolling motor, etc weighs around 3500 w/ full 80 gallon fuel load) and there's no way I'd tow with anything less, nor would I want to tow anything bigger than my boat except for short trips to the ramp. A trans cooler and upgraded brake pads are definite upgrades I plan to do over the winter to help things out.


For you I'd get a full size 4x4 and a beater. The stability of the larger truck is always a plus when doing longer drives with a trailer.

7/7/2011 12:35:29 PM

Screw having a nice truck and a beater car. That's completely backwards.

7/7/2011 10:18:32 PM

^ not for rednecks it aint!

7/7/2011 11:32:49 PM

^exactly I would love to have a beater commuter car for gas, a beater van or truck for towing and hunting, and a nice ass truck.

now to just get a nice ass truck

7/8/2011 9:05:42 AM

i never mentioned that we've got my wife's TL which is "nice" by my standards and great for going out to eat, groceries, long trips, etc.

there's no sense in me getting a nice car for a daily driver just to get in it with coal dust all over my clothes and boots every afternoon

[Edited on July 8, 2011 at 9:13 AM. Reason : i don't really value luxury or speed. i like utility. different strokes.]

7/8/2011 9:12:47 AM

i really think your truck will be fine. check out the ford ranger towing a dump truck.

7/8/2011 9:29:35 PM

7/9/2011 12:34:10 AM

any reason not to buy this? haven't got a chance to call yet, so i'm not sure if it has a 318 or 360.

http://eastnc.craigslist.org/cto/2584749396.html

9/16/2011 9:21:48 PM

Do you like the ram sport?

9/16/2011 11:35:53 PM

6000 no thx

I had one. It was nice but why not GETTA DIESEL

9/17/2011 8:54:18 AM

I don't really like the color matched bumpers and grill on the sport models

9/17/2011 9:37:13 AM

^^i'd love to find a 12v cummins, but the ones in my price range are run pretty ragged. know of a better place than craigslist to search for a 12v?

9/17/2011 10:15:48 PM