It's a Excell Devilbiss Pressure Washer VR2400:

*NOTE - audio starts playing once you reach this webpage, so prepared to mute it
http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/excell-devilbiss-vr2400-pressure-washer-parts

Problem - Yesterday I couldn't keep it running for more than 10-20 minutes before it shut off.
I let it sit for the rest of the day and replaced the spark plug (never been replaced before). Today I tried using it again. It initially starts up, runs for ~1 hr, then randomly cuts off (with enough gas still in the tank to keep running). After waiting ~5 minutes, refilling the gas and checking the oil level, I start it and use it for ~20-30 minutes and it shuts off again. Now it won't start at all.

Other info:
- It's 10 years old
- It's been used frequently, but been well cared for too. My father-in-law is a handy man expert. He knows how to take care of his tools.
- I got it ~1 year ago. Used it sparingly since then

Dumb things I've done since owning it:
- Forgotten to check the oil (facepalm). Ran it nearly bone dry before it started to have issues running. My father-in-law found that problem rather quickly.
- Run it without the metal wire-screened filter for the machine's water intake pipe (lost it, too lazy to replace right away).


Feel free to posit ay theories you may have, thanks.

6/2/2012 4:14:03 PM

small engines are pretty simple. air, fuel, spark (at the right time), compression. figure out which it isn't getting.

most likely the fuel went bad and has gummed up the carburetor. they're fairly easy to clean if you know what you're doing.

[Edited on June 2, 2012 at 4:53 PM. Reason : adf]

6/2/2012 4:42:14 PM

^ All true. Problem is you're talking to a bonafide moron when it comes to engines. There's a reason I don't post in here except when I've broken something

In other words, translating your thoughts into "idiot-speak" will be much appreciated.

6/2/2012 4:55:10 PM

it's unlikely to be air.

if you pull the rope slowly and you feel it get progressively tighter and then get easy, you're feeling the compression stroke of the engine and it's got compression.

pull the spark plug, but connect it back to the spark plug wire. have someone pull the rope like they're trying to start it and see if you can see the plug sparking. you may have to do this somewhere a little darker or in the shade so you can see it. don't get shocked. that little briggs engine on that thing uses a magneto coil for ignition and i have seen them work until they get hot and then they won't spark. they'll go back to working when they cool off. i think you can also check the resistance through the coil with a meter, but just checking for spark should suffice.

if it's got compression and a spark, then it's probably fuel and the best place to start is cleaning the carb.

Quote :

"Engine will not start: Most "it won't start" problems can be divided into two areas: fuel related or ignition related. Be sure that the machine has an ample supply of fresh fuel. For 2-cycle machines that require it, mix the proper amount of 2-cycle oil into the gasoline and shake to mix completely. Never use old or leftover fuel. Store fuel in an airtight container in a cool, dry place away from sparks and flame, and keep all vents on the can closed . Bad gas is more common than you may think, especially when starting a machine for the first time in a season. Do not store gas over the winter, pour it in your car and start fresh next year! If the engine is a 4-cycle, be sure the engine oil is the right type, is clean, and is at the proper level. Next step is to check for spark: Make sure that the ignition switch is "on", that all attachments are disengaged and that the transmission is in neutral. Most machines have safety mechanisms that will not allow them to start otherwise. Consult your owner's manual for the starting procedure for your machine. Next- check for spark by removing the spark plug and grounding the "hex" part of the spark plug to a bare metal part of the engine. Remove any spilled gasoline that is nearby, then spin the engine by pulling the rope or turning the key. You should see a blue spark jump across the plug gap. If you have a good hot spark, skip to the carb section. If the spark is yellow and weak, or there is no spark then the first thing to do is try a new spark plug. Do not try to clean the old one. Set the new plug gap to the proper spec (usually 0.030") and check for spark again. If you do see a spark, install the new plug and try to start the machine. If you still have no spark next try cleaning and setting the points on older machines, or replacing the electronic ignition module on newer machines. Before replacing the old module test it by disconnecting all the wires from the module terminal that connect to the kill switches and recheck for spark, if you see a spark a wire or switch is defective. Also check the flywheel key. That affects the spark timing, usually the key will need replacing if you strike something while mowing and the engine stops. We can provide the parts for your ignition repair Next step is to check the carb & fuel system: If the machine won't start and the spark is good, you must make sure that fresh gasoline is getting to the carb. Make sure that the fuel shutoff valve (if present) is opened, and that the fuel line is not plugged or kinked. Also be sure the fuel cap vent is open and any screens in the tank are clear of debris. If fuel can flow to the carb, carefully place 1 teaspoon of gasoline down the spark plug hole (or a add shot of starting fluid into the carb throat). Re-tighten the plug and try to start the machine. If it runs for a second or two, then quits, chances are the carb needs to be serviced (disassembled and cleaned & inspected, then rebuilt) or you have an air leak somewhere. Make sure all mounting screws or bolts are snug and gaskets are not missing sections. If the carb is a bowl-type check for water in the bottom of the bowl (but do not let the float swing all the way down or the float needle will fall out!). It is easy to install a carb kit yourself."

http://www.m-and-d.com/helpfaq.html

[Edited on June 2, 2012 at 5:10 PM. Reason : adv]

6/2/2012 5:03:47 PM

i'm willing to wager ethanol is the culprit. since it's 10 years old obviously it was built before the E10 mandate. the problem your describing sounds like a lean condition causing excessive exhaust gas temperatures. what did the plug look like when removed after running and shutting off? was it black, tan, or white? gas with E10 actually has a slower burn rate creating the effect of higher octane.

if you can get it running again, try this: hopefully the carb has jet adjustments being that it's 10 years old it should. hopefully they're marked with a "H" and "L". if not marked, do a google search for carb adjustment on your type of engine to find out how to do this. warm up the engine to operating temp. (few minutes after running wide open throttle or in your case simply pressure wash something for a few minutes since i doubt you can adjust the engine rpm's.) take a small screwdriver and rotate the screw marked "H" counter-clockwise in small increments (no more than 1/4 turn at a time ) until problem goes away. engine should sound like it "picks up" a little. if it starts to bog you've gone to far and you are now adding to much fuel.

6/3/2012 9:53:52 PM

trash in the tank/pickup tube screen is my guess

6/3/2012 9:58:01 PM

Quote :

"most likely the fuel went bad and has gummed up the carburetor. they're fairly easy to clean if you know what you're doing."

yup. had a coworker with one and had similar symptoms....

remove carb & clean it, then see. biggest thing is to make sure the fuel passage that draws fuel from the bowl/tank is cleaned.

6/3/2012 10:02:55 PM

try the troubleshooting process i posted above before you go fooling with mixture screws

6/3/2012 10:08:15 PM

Quote :

"pull the spark plug, but connect it back to the spark plug wire. have someone pull the rope like they're trying to start it and see if you can see the plug sparking. you may have to do this somewhere a little darker or in the shade so you can see it. don't get shocked. that little briggs engine on that thing uses a magneto coil for ignition and i have seen them work until they get hot and then they won't spark. they'll go back to working when they cool off. i think you can also check the resistance through the coil with a meter, but just checking for spark should suffice."

NRR hit the nail on the head. If it was carb problems, it wouldnt work for an hour and then cut off. I just ran into the issue of my small outboard motor running for about 20 minutes and then one cylinder would hesitate and miss and cause the engine to run very rough. I checked the spark when i got home and it looked fine, but it was explained to me that coils will tend to fail once the motor and the coils warm up. I replaced the coils and the motor runs great now.

So make sure if you are going to test the spark that you test it after the engine fails, or at least after it has warmed up for a while.

6/4/2012 8:09:21 AM

Thanks for the tips, will give em a try and see what happens.

6/6/2012 3:32:12 PM

so.....

i hate it when you give advice and never hear back what was the problem.

6/27/2012 8:43:07 PM

the emulsion tube is probably all broke in the carb

7/6/2012 5:11:55 PM

immersion?

7/6/2012 5:16:34 PM

emulsion would be a viable term here (I've been studying the art of 4-barrel carburetors lately, emulsion tubes & bleeds are part of the game)

7/7/2012 1:43:13 PM

^^naw.

you can have all the air gas and spark you want but is that and the o rings are broke down or torn or clogged. that unit os only gonna run off whatever you spray in the intake. when you take it apart be very careful i have dental tools that i use just for that shit. I fucking hate it

7/7/2012 2:48:45 PM

Quote :

"Run it without the metal wire-screened filter for the machine's water intake pipe (lost it, too lazy to replace right away). "

on a unit that old it doesnt matter what you have. the minerals in the water will still get through and fuck the monkey metal up that is the pump it self.

7/7/2012 2:51:00 PM