I only had time to do the bad rotor and its pads this evening but everything is riding much better (the inside passenger pad went metal on metal with rotor honestly didn't hear it until it was into it bad). I can replace the pads on the good side but at over 100 for the economy rotor/hub and spindle nut Im thinking about pressing my luck and skipping the rotor, against recommendations. What say you?

[Edited on December 2, 2014 at 10:16 PM. Reason : comma]

12/2/2014 10:15:24 PM

What vehicle? How old are the brakes?

12/3/2014 8:15:16 AM

front or rear?

12/3/2014 10:02:50 AM

I'm curious to know what vehicle this is because he mentions having to replace the hub and spindle. Say what?

In general I'd say it's fine in a pinch for the short term (up to a week). But overall no, replace ASAP. You really gonna cheap out over $100?

12/3/2014 10:11:50 AM

I'd do both. I too want to know what kind of car this is.

12/3/2014 10:50:04 AM

the front brakes for 2004-2008 f150 RWD came with an integral rotor and hub.

12/3/2014 10:52:34 AM

Interesting.

Replace the other brake rotor & pads ASAP.

12/3/2014 10:55:59 AM

i get doing the pads L and R at the same time but i dont buy needing turned/new rotors every time you change pads. why replace an un warped rotor when the other failed for a unique cause.

12/3/2014 11:01:08 AM

Front integrated rotor/hub is standard on 2WD trucks, sucks ass because its not as cheap as regular rotor and you run the risk of over/undertightening the bearing preload if you dont remember or dont know what you are doing. I've done it plenty of times on my old ram and f150 and if its been a long time (or never) since the rotor was replaced its a good time to repack/inspect the bearings on both sides. That being said, IMHO it wont kill you to wait until next available opportunity to do it for the sake of the pad/rotor wear and evened braking loads on a new/old set of rotors. Dont want to run the risk of the new rotor warping already from too much uneven loading.

12/3/2014 11:09:14 AM

i think the rangers those years also had integral hub/rotors

if the other rotor is in good condition and in spec, you should be fine but if you aren't even turning it and it has some groves and pad material on it then your new pad will wear quicker/differently on your old rotor vs. the other side which will lead to uneven braking force and cause the vehicle to pull under braking.

$100 for a component that makes your vehicle stop evenly and consistently seems like a reasonable expense

12/3/2014 11:11:36 AM

id be curious to know how much time a new pad takes to smooth down a rotor or grove itself into the rotor

12/3/2014 11:22:09 AM

if you are not even turning the old rotor and it has pad deposits, it happens very quickly

12/3/2014 11:57:04 AM

^

12/3/2014 1:50:43 PM

im gonna do some hard stop lathe work

12/3/2014 2:11:38 PM