^I looked at that today in the store. The packaging didn't say anything about independent programs for each zone; and 2 Lowe's employees said that it doesn't do individual programming and that all 4 are either on or off.... so does it do multiple zones and/or zone sequencing (all on same schedule, just 1 zone at a time)? A just read another review on that one and they said it does sequentially...

7/23/2013 7:39:39 PM

what would be the purpose of the 4 hose connections if you couldn't program them individually? then you could just use the one from your first post and some splitters.

7/23/2013 7:45:01 PM

^exactly. which is why I don't want a timer with 4-way splitter. I want 4 individual programmable zones so I can control when each zone is watered (to maintain water pressure for each zone/watering period). However, most multi-zone timers appear to apply the same program to each zone... which is dumb (IMO)... unless it opens the valves sequentially during each cycle, which would be OK; however, I'd like to have a gap between each zone's watering cycle for well recovery. If these turn out to be single program zones, but cycled sequentially, I'll just build in the recovery time between timers.

[Edited on July 23, 2013 at 7:47 PM. Reason : .]

7/23/2013 7:46:16 PM

did you see my suggestion (last post on previous page)? i would definitely price it out. it'd be worth paying a little extra for something that will work reliably and last for years.

[Edited on July 23, 2013 at 7:50 PM. Reason : i also like homebrew sort of solutions like that ]

7/23/2013 7:49:21 PM

The one I used and linked to controlled each "zone" individually. A zone is each one of those controllers which I connected to the splitter. I actaully purchased a metal splitter that had larger diameter pipe. The batteries lasted the whole summer for me.

Its basically what NRR explained how to make except its battery powered.

Due to low water pressure I had to use the timer and run each sprinkler in my yard by itself to get maximum coverage. I think I ran each one for 30 minutes starting at like 6:00AM and then again at 8:00PM. This allowed me to water the entire yard twice a day.

7/23/2013 8:02:42 PM

Quote :

"This allowed me to water the entire yard twice a day"

i've read that this does not promote good root growth

7/23/2013 8:06:41 PM

I think your correct, my grass came in kinda spotty. My point was I could put out alot of water without having to move sprinklers around.

With that said, I purchased 4 of everything and the timer vs. using 1 sprinkler and moving it manually every 30 minutes. But it was worth it to me not to deal with turning water on and off and trying to move sprinklers around.

7/23/2013 8:12:11 PM

i won't fool with anything above ground. i'm not going to drag a bunch of hoses around every time i cut my grass. if my house hadn't already had an irrigation system when i bought it, i wouldn't put any effort into my grass beyond mowing.

7/23/2013 8:16:14 PM

whatever one I bought 3 years ago had a 2-way splitter and each branch could be programmed separately. Since I have a spigot on each side of my house, I essentially had 4 zones that could be separately programmed. I utilized these when we put sod in after moving into the house and it worked really, really well for cheap. However, the past two summers, I have watered the lawn a total of 3 times (between both summers) and our lawn is extremely green and thick. Combination of a good hybrid bermuda and getting decent rainfall.

If I was building a new house, 1)I wouldn't build a house where I had a lot of yard (or at least not a lot that was meant to be grass) but 2) would put in an irrigation system. However in our current house I can't justify the price.

I will mention that it is definitely better to water established grass less frequently. Typically (it does depend on a few things like soil type) for something like bermuda, watering once a week for a long duration is much better than watering every day for 15 mins like so many people seem to do.


[Edited on July 23, 2013 at 8:34 PM. Reason : ]

7/23/2013 8:31:40 PM

thanks all.

this is for new seed/heavy overseeding, so good watering is a must.

I'm reviewing all of my procedures for seeding... I'm seeing conflicting answers on watering new seed... any suggestions? The biggest issue I have is being away during the day for work, thus multiple waterings require timers... which from what I've seen, don't give me much flexibility (such as morning watering only; unless I go 1 watering/day.

[Edited on July 23, 2013 at 9:56 PM. Reason : .]

7/23/2013 9:40:15 PM

i put some centipede seed down in a low spot that i filled in with top soil. i watered it once daily. it came up just fine.

7/23/2013 9:58:16 PM

Yep. Depends on the type of grass, but watering once a day (morning typically) is usually good unless it is really, really dry and hot.

Sod is different as you really have to keep it pretty wet around the clock. But as long as you're doing seed, once a day should usually be good. You just have to use judgement with how dried out the ground is getting.

[Edited on July 24, 2013 at 7:48 AM. Reason : ]

7/24/2013 7:42:26 AM

Welp... Orbit timers are pieces of shit. dumbshit never shut off yesterday... so it watered my seed for about 14 hours.... trying a DIG timer next... though 1.5x the price

(and before you ask/say, I know it's the worst time to seed fescue, but I had some old seed leftover and about a 500 sf area that was just excavated for 3 drain lines, all next to/going into a ditch... so I threw the seed out and put down some ECM; surprisingly, a decent amount of seedlings have germinated... now only if they can hold on until september )

[Edited on August 1, 2013 at 8:57 AM. Reason : .]

8/1/2013 8:57:04 AM

Wow, so the timer totally ignored the run time you put in? Mine have never done that.

8/1/2013 11:59:23 AM

yep. supposed to run for 30 min at 7AM. I left at 725AM and it was on (as it should be). Came home at 10PM and it was still running... though not full blast as it had run my well/pressure down.

8/1/2013 12:48:13 PM

damn, that's shitty. I never water unless I'm home for the duration.

8/1/2013 1:22:43 PM

well, this was part of my test run for my soon-to-be massive sprinkler/timer/hose system gonna try to do most of the front yard at one time and then the backyard in 2-3 phases; all this fall.

8/1/2013 1:25:23 PM

I'm considering installing a sprayer system on my front porch for my GF's hanging baskets. She thinks I'm crazy, but they're a bitch to water and it wouldn't be very difficult. It would be cool to just flip a switch and water them all in like 15 minutes. I think I might be getting bored.

[Edited on August 1, 2013 at 1:43 PM. Reason : a]

8/1/2013 1:42:39 PM

^ I would say that's pretty lazy...but I'm not the one that waters our window/hanging baskets/everything else...and when I do have to, I think it's a huge pain in the ass. So more power to you.

8/1/2013 2:05:21 PM

my hanging plants aren't bad... just reach up, pull off the hook, set down, water, put back up...

I'm guess your must be much higher?

[Edited on August 1, 2013 at 2:39 PM. Reason : .]

8/1/2013 2:39:40 PM

i told you to just buy some solenoid valves and a controller

8/1/2013 4:47:57 PM

haha, I don't know about any of that shit. wanna come help?

8/1/2013 5:02:09 PM

^^^ higher and they are cone shaped, so they can't be set down. gotta be watered while they are hanging. pain in the ass.

[Edited on August 1, 2013 at 5:04 PM. Reason : a]

8/1/2013 5:03:42 PM

i know you can glue pvc together. each valve has 2 fucking wires. any retarded hispanic landscaper can do it as long as the instructions come in spanish. you can too.

[Edited on August 1, 2013 at 5:08 PM. Reason : adsv]

8/1/2013 5:06:44 PM

well no shit I can glue PVC together. but this doesn't sound like a good solution... exposed solenoids and wires...? outdoors? with water?

and the controllers I saw weren't that cheap... and not all do individual zones.

[Edited on August 1, 2013 at 9:23 PM. Reason : .]

8/1/2013 9:21:59 PM

yes. they're standard irrigation system parts. they usually go in a plastic valve box. they're made for outdoor use with water.

one of these for every zone:



plus one of these:



and some pipe and fittings.

8/1/2013 9:26:16 PM

home depot sells an 8 station Hunter controller for $100. i think it comes with a weatherproof box for mounting outside.

i think it's an excellent solution. it costs more than those battery operated pieces of junk because it will actually work. it'll be just like a regular custom irrigation system, except instead of hiding the valves in a hole in the ground, they'll sit above ground up next to your spigot. you can mount the controller box wherever you have a 120VAC outlet and run the wire over to the valve manifold. shouldn't be hard to make it where you can just stick the whole thing in the garage in the winter.

8/1/2013 9:33:51 PM

yeh, what you're talking about finally hit me last night... just build an underground irrigation system above ground. IDK wtf I was thinking.

Just bought (hopefully all) the equipment I need. Averages out to $40/zone, which is equivalent to what appears to be mid-grade hose timers.

8/2/2013 2:29:18 PM

post some pics when you get done

8/2/2013 2:40:40 PM

will do. went with a 6 zone controller (lowe's had 3/6/12 zone controllers). I'm hoping I have enough hoses so I don't have to make any more purchases. If I add all components up (including all hoses, sprinklers I already have), it works out (for me) to be about $100/zone. Not too bad I guess. Using just single zone timers works out to be about $75/zone (again, for my situation/equipment).

[Edited on August 2, 2013 at 3:17 PM. Reason : .]

8/2/2013 3:16:00 PM

worth the extra cost to have a robust system that will last, imo. you're also able to change a solenoid for cheap when (not if) they fail instead of having to buy a whole new timer.

8/2/2013 3:46:02 PM

^yep. just finished up building the system. running it on one zone (all I need until fall). gonna post pics and the details in the DIY thread, since it became a fun/interesting/educational DIY project.

Thanks for the idea. It never occurred to me to use this type of system for my needs. In all honesty, I thought these "real" irrigation systems were much more involved/complicated.

8/4/2013 5:24:24 PM

sweet. glad it worked out for you.

8/4/2013 5:48:00 PM

Got a visit from my little turtle buddy. Notice the red mark I put on his back 2 years ago.

8/8/2013 9:07:56 AM

^ Prepare to be murdered by PETA

8/8/2013 10:37:19 AM

That dude loves that hose

8/8/2013 1:20:00 PM

that is a fine looking shell

8/9/2013 11:06:06 PM

PSA:

For those of you doing/going to do soil testing, there will be a fee for peak season sample testing:

$4 fee for soil samples analyzed by the N.C. Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services for the period from December through March.

Rest of the year remains free.

8/15/2013 2:00:38 PM

Eesh...2/3 of my lawn looks like Augusta National and the 1/3 is looking like it just got hit with a brush fire. I THINK that the part that looks bad is a section of the lawn that is always in the sun...would that be the problem?? It was looking fine for the majority of the summer when it rained every day...but maybe its struggling with the heat/sun now that it's back to normal?? I just figured it was strong enough now to withstand that. I guess it could also be brown spot. Don't know what actions I should take at this point. Suggestions??

(it's Bermuda, btw)

8/28/2013 5:51:11 PM

Probably not sun, Bermuda LOVES sun. With all the moisture, fungus has been a problem this year. Army worm can also take out big patches in a hurry.

I've got Bermuda and I have thin spots under shade trees, but all day full sun areas are thriving.

8/28/2013 6:34:44 PM

Any suggestion on a grass seed to buy? My yard is very shaded. What grass that is there is very fine, I'm guessing fescue.

8/29/2013 9:56:16 AM

^ my approach is whatever is cheapest and 99.9% weed free

8/29/2013 11:40:15 AM

Here are the Turf Ratings for NC - http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/NTEP/Default.aspx#AR005346

8/29/2013 4:01:16 PM

This may be a silly question, but haven't run into it before so let me check with y'all.

I'm going to have my lawn aerated and then plan on seeding right afterwards. Walking around the yard today, I noticed a late summer rally of broadleaf weeds.

Should I spray selective herbicide first to address the weeds before seeding? I know broadleaf herbicides don't hurt fescue, but if it's seed that hasn't germinated yet, will that be a problem?

If so, and I do end up spraying first, how long should I wait before dropping seed?

9/4/2013 3:10:28 PM

Quote :

" Eesh...2/3 of my lawn looks like Augusta National and the 1/3 is looking like it just got hit with a brush fire. I THINK that the part that looks bad is a section of the lawn that is always in the sun...would that be the problem?? It was looking fine for the majority of the summer when it rained every day...but maybe its struggling with the heat/sun now that it's back to normal?? I just figured it was strong enough now to withstand that. I guess it could also be brown spot. Don't know what actions I should take at this point. Suggestions?? (it's Bermuda, btw) 8/28/2013 5:51:11 PM "

You just sodded, right?

Normally Bermuda thrives in sun and heat, but in your case with newly sodded soil, it possibly is being caused by shallow roots from the new sod.

Did you water it and did it help?

Bermuda typically doesnt have fungus or insect problems, so I wouldn't think it would be anything like that.

9/5/2013 10:58:41 PM

^^You typically want to stay away from any pre- or post-emergent herbicides when you've just seeded new grass. I think the best thing would be to use glyphosphate (round-up) to nuke the weeds before seeding, then seed after a week or so.

The label of whatever you decide to use should explicitly state how long after application you can seed new grass. I think a lot of the selective herbicides have a much longer lead time after application for seeding as compared to the basic kick-ass herbicides.

9/6/2013 8:20:49 AM

This just came from the NC State turf people. A bunch of good reminders at the very least...

Quote :

"FALL SEEDING: It is Time for Fall Seeding of Cool Season Grasses by Dr. Grady Miller August 30, 2013. Tall Fescue Fall is the best time for renovation and seeding of cool-season lawns. Temperatures are beginning to moderate, making for an ideal time for fall renovation. Remember that spring-established tall fescue is more susceptible to drought, heat, fungal diseases, and weed encroachment. With normal summer weather patterns, spring seeding is not likely to result in a year-long stand of healthy tall fescue. So do not delay, seed in the fall! Young seedlings normally emerge and grow best when air temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees. Soil temperatures need to be greater than 60 degrees for good germination. So, it is generally better to go a bit early than seeding late. If tall fescue is seeded in under less than ideal conditions (too cool or no soil moisture), you may experience a thin turf stand going into the winter. So try to get your seed out in September. If you must wait until October there is an increased likelihood of slow/low germination. It is best to choose cultivars from the turffiles website : 2013 Recommended Kentucky Bluegrass Cultivars for NC and 2013 Recommended Tall Fescue Cultivars for North Carolina. Also, those cultivars listed in “Carolina Lawns” publication are still good, although there are newer cultivars. If you buy a tall fescue blend, try to find one with at least one of the cultivars from the list of recommended cultivars. These grasses were chosen because they produce a high quality turf in North Carolina and have been shown to be less susceptible to brown patch. Some like to mix in a little Kentucky bluegrass (darker color and finer texture) or fine fescue (for shady areas). Do NOT add ryegrass to the mix. A typical tall fescue seeding rate is 5 to 6 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet. Germination will normally be in 7 to 21 days with soil moisture and suitable soil temperatures. Before seeding core aerification is recommended to reduce compacted areas. Getting good soil to seed contact is paramount to maximize available soil moisture. The core aerification holes will capture seed and hold moisture so the tall fescue seedlings often come up as a tuft of turf from the aerification holes. Follow normal tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass fertilization practices as outlined in Carolina Lawns available on the http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu website. The suggested yearly nitrogen application is about 1.0 pound of nitrogen fertilizer per 1000 square at seeding. Include phosphorus and potassium fertilizers if soil tests indicate there is a need. In the absence of a soil test, a 16-4-8 or similar N-P-K ratio fertilizer may be used this spring. Before additional fertilizer or lime is added, conduct a soil test (http://www.ncagr.com/agronomi/sthome.htm ). To apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet: Divide 100 by the first number on the fertilizer bag to determine the amount of product to be used per 1,000 square feet. Example: Using a 16-4-8 fertilizer, 100 divided by 16 equals 6.25, therefore, 6.25 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet will deliver 1 pound of nitrogen. If irrigation is available, set your controller within current water restrictions for your area. Irrigate early in the morning to reduce water loss due to evaporation. In the fall, ¼ to ½ inch water per week of water (via rainfall or irrigation) is generally sufficient to meet the turf’s water needs. To dial in your irrigation settings based on turfgrass needs for your location, use the TIMS website available at http://www2.turffiles.ncsu.edu/tims. Since seeds and seedlings may be damaged by some herbicide applications, fall seeded cool-season grasses should not have any herbicides applied until it is extensively tillered. It is very important that tall fescue be maintained at the proper mowing height to allow it to mature before winter and to minimize weed incidence. Studies have shown that a 3½ mowing height provides the best growth condition while minimizing disease incidence and weed encroachment. A 3 to 3.5 inch mowing height is also a good height for tall fescue + Kentucky bluegrass. Note that warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass can be sodded in the fall, but it is generally not recommended due to the increased chance of winterkill. Warm-season grasses should not be seeded in the fall as there is inadequate time for maturity before the first expected frost. Original Post: http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Alerts.aspx#005518 "

Quote :

"Here are the Turf Ratings for NC - http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/NTEP/Default.aspx#AR005346"

Good point. I do try to stick to those too...

9/6/2013 10:13:57 AM

Yeah I'll be doing my fall seeding and aeration next week. I hope the aerator rental from Triad is still $45 for the day.

9/6/2013 10:41:17 AM

Definitely have some brown spot or some type of fungus in part of my yard (bermuda grass). Went and got some of this today:




What's the plan of action? I think I've waited too late and it's thinned out the back 1/3 of my yard. So I want to use this and then possible aerate and re-seed? I'm in Charleston, so we've got warm weather for another two months.

Opinions?

9/6/2013 1:07:14 PM

If you're sticking with bermuda or any other warm-season grass, then you don't want to sod or seed in the fall; wait until next spring. If instead you're switching to fescue or a cool season grass, then fall is primetime for seeding.

If it's just thin, then I wouldn't fret. Proper fertilization, lime, and pre-emergence herbicide next spring will allow the bermuda to bounce back and you'd be surprised at how quickly it can thicken up and fill in bare spots, especially in full sun.

9/6/2013 1:31:35 PM