anyone going to SHOT 2012 in vegas?

12/22/2011 5:07:18 PM

Quote :

"Quote : "In my price range I'm considering the Weatherby Vanguard, Marlin XL-7 and the Tikka T3." How much money do you want to spend?"

I'm looking at spending $500 just for the rifle. I've seen some Tikkas and Remington 700 in that price (~$550) range. But no one seems to have any Marlin's or Weatherby.

Looking at the bolt actions of both the Tikka and the Remington, the Tikkas are smoother, and I like that they are guaranteed 1 MOA accuracy.

[Edited on December 22, 2011 at 6:54 PM. Reason : ...]

12/22/2011 6:47:27 PM

marlin is dead to me.

12/22/2011 6:50:09 PM

Why is that?

12/22/2011 6:55:33 PM

marlin = remington = cerberus capital management = JUNK

the marlin 795 is about the only new marlin worth mentioning and only because it's so damn cheap. QC still isn't up to par on them. old marlins are fine.

^^^i'd just save a couple hundred more bucks and buy an accutrigger savage. in the grand scheme, what's $200-300 more for a quality rifle that will keep you satisfied for many years instead of a cheaper rifle with cut corners?

[Edited on December 22, 2011 at 8:03 PM. Reason : fadfa]

12/22/2011 7:54:54 PM

if you buy a marlin make sure its an old one.

12/22/2011 7:57:59 PM

whats good to rinse corrosive ammo out of an AK beofore the rust sets in from the salt and humidity? i have heard of everything from water, piss, windex, mean grean, WD40, etc

12/22/2011 8:36:16 PM

Pee works but I'd rather not clean that up.
Hot water then windex, or just windex if water's too messy.

WD40 doesn't belong around guns...unless you have some water that needs displacing and you plan on lubing it with somethign else.

12/22/2011 8:51:54 PM

Where can I buy Ballistol locally?

12/22/2011 8:52:53 PM

you can get it at the gun show in a few weeks for sure

[Edited on December 22, 2011 at 8:59 PM. Reason : most gun shops seem to carry it now]

12/22/2011 8:59:09 PM

When is the next big Raleigh show?

12/23/2011 2:02:03 AM

jan 14th and 15th

http://dixiegunandknifeshow.com/pages/Raleigh-Show.html

12/23/2011 2:09:11 AM

Quote :

"whats good to rinse corrosive ammo"

If I can't clean the barrel within an half an hour*, I'll spray the chamber and make sure the entire barrel is drenched in windex (with Ammonia). Otherwise, I skip the windex step. When I get home, I bring a kettle (about a quart) of water to a hard boil. I slowly pour the boiled water down the barrel. After the barrel cools, (about 20 minutes later), I do a regular cleaning. The barrel gets so hot that any traces of boiled water evaporates. I've done this with my mosins and have had great luck with it. You can take an air compressor (or compressed air cans) and spray in nooks/cranny's where you think water might have "pooled" and not evaporated yet. YMMV for the AK, but on the Mosins the receiver and barrel are bone dry after it cools.


*From my understanding, salt crystals and corrosion can begin in as early as 15 minutes.

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 7:44 AM. Reason : .]

12/23/2011 7:42:25 AM

is corrosive ammo cheap enough to really make it worth the time to do all that? i have no experience with it.

12/23/2011 9:47:20 AM

I can get 880 rounds of 7.62x54r surplus for $170. That's $0.193/rnd
Cheapest non-corrosive 7.62x54r is about $220 shipped for 500 rounds. That's $0.44/rnd

So... At less than half the price, I can shoot corrosive ammo. Cleaning process doesn't take that much longer. Maybe an extra 5 minutes from your 24 hour day? I usually do other things while I wait for the water to boil and for the barrel to to cool down afterwards, so overall I don't consider the "extra work" a huge negative but rather a minor caveat.

initially it sounds like a huge deal and a major turn off, but really there is nothing to it. The word corrosive sounds much more dangerous than it really is. I mean, if you neglect your rifle after shooting corrosive ammo, yes, you will ruin/destroy it. However, if you practice the good habit of cleaning your gear after use, you'll be fine with no ill drawbacks.

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 10:25 AM. Reason : .]

12/23/2011 10:19:21 AM

8mm mauser is even cheaper than that and far more accurate in a good m24/47.

a good one is 200-250 dollars, so a tad more than a mosin.

still one of the best surplus shooting experiences i reckon you can have.

12/23/2011 10:25:31 AM

Also, in comparison, a box of Federal .40 from Wal-Mart is $17.xx, so about $0.34/rnd*. Also, most .308 rounds I've seen are about $0.50/rnd. Even 9mm at Wal-Mart is about $0.21/rnd. So I'm shooting a big caliber rifle round for less than factory 9mm prices? Count me in

^Absolutely!


*my .40 reloads come in at $0.19/rnd.

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 10:29 AM. Reason : .]

12/23/2011 10:29:11 AM

damn, that's pretty good. i guess if you just wanna sent a lot of ammo downrange then that's the way to go.

12/23/2011 11:37:02 AM

I've just never had the urge to shoot such a large bullet so much, my shoulder gets sore. How far out are the targets you're shooting?

12/23/2011 1:36:33 PM

same here. i don't wanna plink for long with anything recoiling harder than my .22-250.

any of y'all use a chronograph? thinking i'd like to get one in the next year or so. curious as to what y'all are using.

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 2:03 PM. Reason : adsf]

12/23/2011 1:55:23 PM

mosin recoil isn't bad, i'd put it on par with the 30-30. not too difficult to handle for longer sessions

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 2:29 PM. Reason : 91/30 anyway, I imagine the m44 might be a little more rough]

12/23/2011 2:27:47 PM

So the windex with ammonia is good to neutralize the salts, why not just use a spray bottle with pure ammonia.


i just bought a new AK74 by the way, and I bought it for the simplicity and reliability without much maintenance for a worst case scenario. I plan on shooting whatever kind of cheap 5.45 I can find, so that includes the junk surplus crap and I am concerned about the salt residue plus the high humidity where I live. Im trying to find the best and easiest solution to clean things until I can do a real cleaning, in order to prevent rust. Im not a fan of the water idea, but Id like to know other readily available products that have the same benefits. does ballistol do that, I have also heard good things about mean green.

12/23/2011 2:56:35 PM

Quote :

"So the windex with ammonia is good to neutralize the salts, why not just use a spray bottle with pure ammonia."

Because ammonia is a gas.

Besides that, you wouldn't want it too strong for other reasons. You ever smelled cat pee? Imagine cat pee x 42.97
That's what Barnes CR-10 bore solvent smells like because it has a high concentration of ammonia. It's enough to burn your nostrils if you're not careful.
Ammonia dissolves copper in addition to corrosive salts. It can dissolve some of the elements found in steel too, so the general thought is it's bad to leave it in a barrel too long or in too high a concentration. In reality it probably doesn't hurt because once it's dissolved the micro ingredients in the steel's surface it can't get to the rest of those elements it because they're surrounded by the components it can't dissolve.

12/23/2011 4:28:09 PM

If i were wearing just a t shirt, I'd have a helluva sore shoulder after 50 rounds... I shot 80 rounds in another session while wearing a thick hoody with a polo and undershirt and I left the range in the same shape as I had come (no sores). There are rubber recoil pads available for mosins for ~$20 that replace the metal butt-plate. I suppose they would help, as would slip on recoil pads. I usually shoot anywhere from 50-180 yards with my Mosin. I've yet to get out and shoot my m44, so I can't compare recoil to the 91/30 yet.


As for Ballistol, I've heard great things about it cleaning the salt from corrosive ammo. I do not like that it will dissolve in water though, potentially leaving your firearm unprotected from exposure to humidity over long periods of time. But if you plan on using the firearm regularly, I don't see the harm.

I suppose you could just use a spray bottle of ammonia. Be sure to get lemon scented. I got Windex because... Um. Damn. I don't have a good reason why to choose Windex over just ammonia. Lol. Because I got a bottle of 32oz windex for <$2 OTD? ^This

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 4:31 PM. Reason : .]

12/23/2011 4:29:39 PM

pure ammonia certainly is a gas at 1 atm and room temp, but you can buy some aqueous ammonia and cut it way down with water and have all the benefits of the windex's ammonia w/o the soap. probably wouldn't make a difference.

12/23/2011 5:34:47 PM

^see this?

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/604650/lake-city-brass-556x45mm-nato-new-unfired-box-of-1000?cm_vc=q011

i always thought my m91/30 recoiled worse than my m44 because it was so long i felt spastic holding it. the m44 you can hold like a real gun and the improved posture helps negate any added punch.

worth noting is my mauser and enfield both recoil less with similar bullet weights/velocity (and are both far more accurate).

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 5:39 PM. Reason : -]

12/23/2011 5:37:23 PM

that's way expensive

12/23/2011 5:42:30 PM

ah well, shows what i know about that caliber-

12/23/2011 5:45:19 PM

i mean, it may be a good deal so far as fully prepped, unfired, ready to load lake city, but when compared to once fired 223, it's ridiculous. i've got the equipment to prep (except for a primer pocket swager, which i will probably go ahead and get) and i don't mind chilling at the bench, listening to the radio and prepping brass, especially this time of year when it's dark by 5:30, so once-fired is fine by me. i'll spend my money on nicer bullets, the component that has the most effect on accuracy.

12/23/2011 5:59:24 PM

That's actually pretty decent for new brass of that quality. You can get a lot of life out of LC brass, and the work to get the primer pockets usable is fairly tedious. If you have more time than money, as most of us do, then it's probably not that great, but unless you a have a Dillon Super Swager and a good line on once-fired brass, it's worth considering for the mere fact that you'll spend anywhere from 10-20 hours fully prepping 1000 pieces of brass, in addition to the 75-100 bucks you spend on them to begin with.

Just something to think about if you plan to shoot a lot of it.

12/23/2011 6:56:13 PM

what about this?: http://store.brassmanbrass.com/servlet/-strse-1152/%280h%29-223-Lake-City/Detail

Quote :

"223 Lake City Head-Stamp Brass, match prepped & ready to load! Brass has been cleaned, sized & trimmed to 1.750 x .002. The primer pockets have been swaged, cleaned and flash holes deburred. The case necks have been chaferred inside and out. All tumbled to an outstanding shine! *Shipping Included, US POSTAL ONLY* PRICE: $149.00"

[Edited on December 23, 2011 at 7:23 PM. Reason : daf]

12/23/2011 7:22:23 PM

how about the RCBS swager? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/447022/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo

$14 vs. $100 for the dillon swager.

12/23/2011 9:26:49 PM

I picked up two 20 round boxes of American Eagle 5.56 Tracer rounds today for ~$10 a box in Martinsville. Time to have some fun

12/24/2011 12:50:51 AM

I'll be selling 1k of PMC X-TAC 5.56 (I believe the m193 is made at Lake City) brass fairly regularly - probably more than you'll need. Whats the going price for this once-fired brass? $75?

12/24/2011 12:54:05 AM

that seems to be in line with most places

let me know when you've got 1k ready to go. are you located in raleigh?

12/24/2011 1:10:06 AM

Yep, Raleigh. I'll let you know when they're ready

12/24/2011 1:17:31 AM

Its called ammonia hydroxide when ammonia is put into water

12/24/2011 7:45:46 AM

I have the RCBS swager, and it's finicky to say the least. I've bent at least one pin on it because the adjustment requires such attention and precision. If you're doing a couple dozen here and there it's okay. You still have to go back and chamfer the pockets after you're done to ensure that they will prime. The Dillon tool is incredible, though. You can just roll through those things like a machine and they come out perfect every time. Anybody who swages any appreciable amount of LC ends up either buying or borrowing a Dillon tool.

The alternative is to just chamfer the crimp out by hand. It's pretty quick, quite effective, you just end up with an oddly shallow looking primer pocket. Some people say it's dangerous, but I've never heard of an actual problem related to it. In fact, the big commercial reloaded brass that you buy has the pockets chamfered.

^^And if you get another 1k, give me a holler as well.

12/24/2011 8:17:25 AM

What's up with gun shops banning carry?

12/24/2011 9:27:12 AM

^^^

Quote :

"Ammonia solution, also known as ammonium hydroxide, ammonia water, ammonical liquor, ammonia liquor, aqua ammonia, aqueous ammonia, or simply ammonia, is a solution of ammonia in water."

it's got a lot of names

^^i reckon i'll just break down and spend the money

[Edited on December 24, 2011 at 11:04 AM. Reason : always gotta have the best shit ]

12/24/2011 10:56:42 AM

so my LCP is messed up now... the barrel will move freely when the slide is racked back... not good. anyone care to take pictures of the interior of the frame, slide, etc?

12/24/2011 3:12:15 PM

Nevermind. Im a dumbass

12/24/2011 4:03:18 PM

^Forget to put in the recoil spring?

12/24/2011 5:55:09 PM

That's okay. I'll save you by mentioning that the other day I decided to play around with the glock a bit. I took it apart to clean it and while doing so, I decided to put the slide back on the frame without the barrel and recoil spring. Yeah... I had to take the back plate off to remove the firing pin to get the slide to come off again. It wasn't hard or complicated, just one of those "why the hell would you do something retarded like this to begin with?"

12/24/2011 7:03:39 PM

You don't have to take the back plate off for that, you just hold the slide in the proper position, pull the take down lever, and the slide comes off the front.

12/24/2011 8:08:49 PM

^ That's what I initially thought. For some reason, the back part of the firing pin was still getting hooked on to the trigger assembly. Even after trying to do a normal take down (pull trigger, hold slide back, lower takedown bar), the slide couldn't slide all the way off the frame. You could feel a spring like tension and the resistance increased the further forward off the frame I attempted to remove the slide. I thought it was odd because I don't understand how having a barrel and recoil spring otherwise alters the take down process.



Anyways, the glock shot flawlessly afterwards at the range.

[Edited on December 24, 2011 at 9:59 PM. Reason : .]

12/24/2011 9:56:17 PM

for xmas i got a 3-pack of 12 gauge Dragons Breath rounds and another 3-pack of Bolo rounds

12/25/2011 4:05:55 PM

^That Dragons Breath is cool as shit.

12/25/2011 4:19:06 PM

I spent some time yesterday and got my brother to help figure out how the rails come off of my Sig 556 and got a Mako T-POD foregrip attached. Went out today and got my microdot sighted in at 100yds. I'm for now.

12/25/2011 5:10:39 PM

reloading stuff for christmas!

loaded up my first batch of 45-70 this weekend and it shot fabulous in my ruger no 1.

cant wait to start experimenting- lots of fun in itself.

12/25/2011 8:45:06 PM