Simmons 22 Mag series of scopes are very inexpensive, but they've worked great for me. i've got the 3-9x32 on a Marlin 795 and a 3-9x32AO on a Savage 93 22WMR. they hold zero, the adjustments work as they should, and they're pretty clear. good scope for the money.

good enough to do this in a couple hours:


and here's the AO version on the Savage. bowling pins at 100 yds:

4/8/2012 7:23:49 PM

What round do you use when squirrel hunting? (ie: 40gr lead round nose Blazer)

4/8/2012 7:32:30 PM

CCI minimag HP

really need to shoot them in the head no matter what ammo you're shooting

4/8/2012 7:40:03 PM

my old enfield has a couple holes tapped into the top of it where some dumb bastard tried to mount a scope years ago.

one of the holes is so close to the edge of the metal it will soon be a "U."

what can i do to repair this? i want it to be like they were never drilled.

should i take it to some gunsmith and have them welded/filed/blued?

thanks!

4/8/2012 9:18:46 PM

yes, most gunsmiths can weld up the holes, smooth it down, and re-blue it.

re-bluing is expensive

4/8/2012 9:31:37 PM

^^^ you mean to preserve meat?

because a .22 WMR will most definitely kill a squirrel without it being a headshot.

4/8/2012 9:49:37 PM

i probably will blue it myself then,

i suck at touching up metal, but it will look perfect due to the "patina."

thanks a bunch,

4/8/2012 9:58:02 PM

^^yes, headshots don't waste meat and make it much easier to skin them. i don't like the idea of shooting up into trees with a .22WMR.

.22-250 doesn't require a headshot to kill a squirrel either:

4/8/2012 10:05:04 PM

i would do whatever it took to have this

http://www.carolinashootersforum.com/showthread.php?t=126339

[Edited on April 8, 2012 at 10:31 PM. Reason : short of, you know, paying the guy $1700]

4/8/2012 10:31:15 PM

^

Quote :

"You are not logged in or you do not have permission to access this page."

I has no account...

4/8/2012 11:25:26 PM

^^

Quote :

"Kimber Custom Shop Gold Combat Stainless II .45 I have the following handgun for sale. It was purchased new by me personally and is still NIB. It is from the Kimber Custom Shop and is a Gold Combat Stainless II in .45 ACP. This is a fully loaded top of the line Kimber that lists for $2196. It comes with original case and all paperwork. Price is $1700 http://www.kimberamerica.com/1911/custom-shop/gold-combat-stainless-ii I prefer to sell these FTF in or around Raleigh NC. FTF in NC requires a Pistol Permit or CCW. I will ship to FFL for actual cost if he will receive from an individual. I prefer for you to e-mail me as I get that right away. "

4/8/2012 11:31:01 PM

do kimber barrels still have that rusting problem?

4/8/2012 11:57:35 PM

Thanks! I like it!

4/8/2012 11:58:11 PM

I'd suck the rust out of it's ass just to see where it came from

besides, barrels can be replaced

also i don't know

4/9/2012 12:13:32 AM

So, I bought an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight on sale and also used a 20% off couple.
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

It's still on sale and with the coupon, you can pick one up for ~$65 OTD after taxes and such.

First, I deprimed 650 .40cal brass, which took maybe 45 minutes to do. I ordered a few 600ml Kimble/Kontes KIMAX beekers and had them suspended in the ultrasonic machine to make it easier with the different stages in the cleaning process. In about 30 minutes, I could clean 50 brass cartidges.

For 25 brass cases, I did the following.
1) 480 second cycle : 175ml water, 175ml 5% White Vinegar, 2 drops of Dawn.
After cycle completes, rinse in warm water
2) 480 second cycle: 350ml warm water, ~18grains Arm and Hammer Baking Soda (to counteract the acidic reaction and prevent the brass from tarnishing).
After cycle completes, rinse in warm water
3) 480 second cycle: 350ml warm water.
4) 480 second cycle: 350ml distilled water
5) Set the brass with the bullet end down on a towl and leave out to air dry (~8 hours)

I could do two beakers at the same time, moving on to the next cycle every 6 minutes while I played on the computer or watched TV. I am VERY pleased with how they turned out. The brass isn't polished, as some still had discolored marks on the outside of the brass. But they are extremely clean and much smoother to the touch than before. The inside of the brass looks new and the flash holes for the primer pockets are extremely clean. ~10 out of 1000 of my twice reloaded brass had failure to ejects while at the range, which I admited is likely to dirty brass.

Seeing the before and after is like night and day. I wish I thought of taking pictures of the process. I am, however, working on another "small" project which I hope to post shortly.

[Edited on April 9, 2012 at 1:16 AM. Reason : .]

[Edited on April 9, 2012 at 1:18 AM. Reason : .]

4/9/2012 1:15:59 AM

that's the same US cleaner i have. i used it for cases, but got tired of going back in there every 480 seconds. i just use it for cleaning parts and stuff now. does a good job.

4/9/2012 9:25:40 AM

is it important to keep track of once fired vs twice fired, etc? if so what is the rule of thumb for service life?

4/9/2012 3:25:57 PM

I suck with pistols. It's taking far to much effort, concentration, and time to shoot crappy 8" groups at 10-12 yards than I would like. I need some practice. Anyone have a plate rack?

4/9/2012 4:05:12 PM

^^i generally just eyeball mine. granted i dont know what caliber youre referring to, or exactly what reloading setup you have.

but i hardly every discard brass. none of my weapons firing 45-70 have very forceful ejectors so im just pulling cases out by hand.

the brass is very beefy and very few of my handloads ever surpass SAAMI specs. im pretty meticulous about measuring and trimming my cases, but my loads are so mild they hardly ever stretch.

some of my hornady brass has been reloaded 7 times. i keep track of how many times its been fired, but i imagine ill be keeping it indefinitely.

i dont know how many cartridges are comparable to 45-70 in this respect, however.

4/9/2012 7:24:17 PM

I am reloading .40 brass from a glock 27 using a kkm barrel that offers a "fully supported chamber". If you look closely though, the head is still not perfect. My specs do not excede SAAMI and my loadouts are a close to my defense carry for practice/training purposes. Out of concern, I only reload my brass twice. This is perhaps a waste of perfectly good brass. I dont know. I'd rather not learn the hard way whether this is true or not. I maybe more inclined to reuse these a 3rd time since I now have a means of cleaning them where before it was easier to just toss the dirty brass and get new ones. Depending on your caliber and setup, your milage may vary.

[Edited on April 9, 2012 at 9:13 PM. Reason : .]

4/9/2012 9:13:04 PM

i've got some .22-250 brass that's been loaded at least 6 times. i bought it new never fired, ran it through a full length die, and i've only had to full length size it once since then because i was getting a slight bit of resistance when closing the bolt. i had some out of that batch that split on the neck or shoulder on the first firing, but i haven't had to throw any others out since then.

i just load brass until the neck splits, primer pocket gets loose, etc.

4/9/2012 9:52:41 PM

Quote :

"is it important to keep track of once fired vs twice fired, etc? if so what is the rule of thumb for service life?"

It depends.
Low pressure rounds can last a very very long time (10+ loadings) while some cartridges only last a few loadings.
How much you have to shape the brass also matters. For instance, 40 S&W will last more loadings than 357 Sig because resizing the shoulder on 357 Sig is stressful. Brass loaded for semiauto centerfire rifles probably have the shortest life because you have to full length size the brass to function in a semi. Compare that to NRR who only resizes the necks for his 22-250 bolt gun.

For low pressure stuff like 38 Special and 9mm I don't keep track of the number of loadings, I just load it til it looks like it might split.
In my 357 Mag I keep track of how many times I load it to full power and I only do that 3 times before I set those cases aside for medium or less loads. Of all the stuff I've loaded I've only had split cases with full power 357 mag.
I also keep track of my centerfire rifles and 480 Ruger because those cases aren't cheap. I'll anneal them when I get 5 loadings.

If you have expensive or hard to find brass you can anneal the cases to prolong the life. You just heat the case mouth and shoulder with a torch til it's red then let them cool. Most people drop the cases in water to cool. Make sure you don't heat the case head/web.

Quote :

"i had some out of that batch that split on the neck or shoulder on the first firing, but i haven't had to throw any others out since then."

That's shitty to only last one load. What brand brass was it?

[Edited on April 10, 2012 at 1:35 AM. Reason : ]

4/10/2012 1:34:30 AM

winchester. it's weird because they either split after the first load or last indefinitely. i've read reports of similar experiences with new winchester brass. i've decided that i'm either gonna pony up for the top shelf brass or buy once-fired. i lost 18 out of a batch of 50 once. fuck that.

[Edited on April 10, 2012 at 11:30 AM. Reason : loads were mild. 32 gr varget under a 55 gr nosler ballistic tip.]

4/10/2012 11:29:41 AM

my 303 loaded with cordite splits literally every time.

i dont think theyre boxer primed anyway, but its concerning.

4/10/2012 11:35:14 AM

GSSF
Please join us this month on April 21-22, 2012 in Morganton, NC for the Table Rock Challenge V hosted by the Burke County Narcotics Task Force!

I'll be there. Shotting in 4 divisions I believe.

4/10/2012 7:48:42 PM

^ damnit. I'll be in the area, but with a motorcycle gang.

4/10/2012 9:40:12 PM

^so stop in and shoot. Or come back out that way again the next day.

4/11/2012 12:40:38 AM

So I convinced my wife to let me build an AR.

This is way out of her comfort zone, so she stipulated that it be kept at my mom's until she gets comfortable with the idea being at our house. Baby steps, I guess.

Now I just need the green-light from my wallet.

4/11/2012 9:26:51 AM

^ Let me know if you need any advice on the AR

Just got done with a build a few weeks ago. Noveske 14.5" upper on top of an AXTS AX556 ambidextrous billet lower. A couple pictures I took:





[Edited on April 11, 2012 at 9:38 AM. Reason : pic]

4/11/2012 9:37:16 AM

^Looks nice!

Love the FDE, definitely going that route.

4/11/2012 9:51:52 AM

^^ High Roller status



My FDE

4/11/2012 6:13:51 PM

Kind of excited about my sweet new LaRue bag, of course had to take some photos of it



Details on the AR:

- Noveske Mid-Length 14.5" Light LO-PRO
- AXTS Weapons AX556
- Battle Arms CASS-3P, SA 45' Ambi Safety Selector
- Vltor MUR upper receiver
- Vltor A5 Extension & Buffer
- Magpul STR / Magpul MIAD / Magpul ASAP
- Geissele Super Dynamic Combat (SD-C) trigger
- AAC Blackout 51T FH

[Edited on April 11, 2012 at 7:07 PM. Reason : .]

4/11/2012 7:05:34 PM

Quote :

"This is way out of her comfort zone, so she stipulated that it be kept at my mom's until she gets comfortable with the idea being at our house."

4/11/2012 7:39:01 PM

Lawmen's in Raleigh no longer carries HK anything. Ugh.

4/11/2012 8:44:10 PM

dude, it's 2012. order the damn thing and have it shipped to the FFL of your choice.

4/11/2012 8:49:15 PM

If you're recommending that I buy a firearm sight unseen... then no. I've never even held a P2000SK in hand before, so how am I supposed to know whether or not it's what I actually want? All I know is that my USP is the single best handgun which I've ever fired, and I'd like to consider another slightly smaller HK to carry. If I can just FIND one somewhere where I can put it in my hand and then determine if it's a decent "fit," then sure, I will definitely buy it online.

4/11/2012 9:44:10 PM

A-ha!

http://www.sswllc.com/pistols/h-k/p2000-subcompact-9mm-da-sa-decocker-v3-w-two-10rnd-mags.html

Anyone have any information about Shooting Sports wholesale? I've never heard of it until today.

4/11/2012 9:47:12 PM

^^^^^i was shocked she was cool with me building one in the first place.

4/12/2012 8:18:33 AM

This thread makes me feel like my AR is a Hi Point

Axelay, I've fondled a P2000 and it's somewhat similar to the grip on a USP with similar controls but is much much slimmer. I like them. If I got an HK it'd probably be a P2000. You should call up Lawmen's or PDHSC and see if they'll order one so you can check it out. I know PDHSC has stocked them in the past. They may be willing to get one and just stock it if you don't want it.

4/12/2012 9:14:55 AM

This is what I'm probably going to go with. It's about $750 for everything, all PSA.



http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lower-parts/lower-receivers/psa-ar15-lower.html
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lower-parts/build-kits/moe-lower-build-kit.html
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/complete-uppers/14-5/psa-14-7-cmv-mid-length-lighter-weight-chrome-lined-mp-upper.html


Thoughts?

[Edited on April 12, 2012 at 10:02 AM. Reason : .]

4/12/2012 9:57:35 AM

someday I'll get a PSA AR... i'll probably wait until I move out of SC so I don't have to pay sales tax

at the very least I'll get the stripped lower from them when they're doing one of those $50 sales

4/12/2012 10:02:02 AM

^^ that is probably exactly what I'll be going with on my next PSA build. Can't go wrong with an almost entire FN AR for that price.

Personally I'd probably add on that Midwest Industries MI-SS12g2 for an extra $160 - that'll go ahead and replace the FSP with a Low Profile gas block.

Also if you wanted something other than that A2 birdcage welded on for $20, you could push the barrel out to 16" and get a brake or something and screw it on yourself.

4/12/2012 10:20:45 AM

Quote :

"Axelay, I've fondled a P2000 and it's somewhat similar to the grip on a USP with similar controls but is much much slimmer. I like them. If I got an HK it'd probably be a P2000. You should call up Lawmen's or PDHSC and see if they'll order one so you can check it out. I know PDHSC has stocked them in the past. They may be willing to get one and just stock it if you don't want it."

Yup! I've tried both of these places. PDHSC was my first stop, and they told me that their distributors couldn't get them one. I also asked them to check and see if there was anyplace in Raleigh which might have one, and they couldn't find one in their database. (I dunno how thorough this may or may not be.) I just went to Lawmen's yesterday where I was told that they don't carry anything HK anymore. Very disappointing. They looked in their database and claimed that this Shooting Sports Wholesale place does. They had never heard of them before and neither have I, but I guess I'll ride by and check it out. I'm also not very hopeful that I'll find one at a fairgrounds gun show, as the HK selection at most of those leaves a lot to be desired. I am quite determined to not settle for anything less until I have at least held one to see if it's what I truly want.

4/12/2012 10:27:20 AM

I have a Midwest Industries Free float hand guard on my FDE AR.
I would not go with them again if I had a do over. They are very, very fat, and heavy.
I would stick with the MOE guards, or go with a VLtor guard.

4/12/2012 10:29:02 AM

actually now that you mention FN:

i got to play with (but not shoot ) a SCAR the other day, and now I really want one of those... light, easy takedown, etc

i can dream, can't I?

4/12/2012 10:30:13 AM

MaximaDrvr, what generation MI handguard are you using? I haven't used either, but it looks like the Gen 2 has some serious improvements over the older models.



http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_124/560854_Midwest_Industries_Inc__Gen_2_SS_Free_Float_Handguards_.html

4/12/2012 10:34:33 AM

I guess this is a good place to put this:

I'm currently looking into purchasing my first handgun. It would be used for both personal carry/home protection and fun at local indoor ranges.

Should I look towards a 9mm, a .40, or a .45? Besides stopping power, are there any other distinct advantages/disadvantages in comparing those three? I assume ammo cost would be cheaper for a 9mm and more expensive for the .40 and .45, but that's just an assumption...

I'm also thinking about a revolver, because I've always loved the classic look of them.


So... any recommendations?

4/12/2012 10:34:40 AM

^^ mine is an older model. Those look much better.

^ Just get a Glock 19 and call it a day. /Glock sack rider.
There are a lot of good options, but I'm not a fan of revolvers. Low capacity and slow reloads do not make a good defensive weapon IMO. Glocks and M&Ps are the top of my list.

[Edited on April 12, 2012 at 10:48 AM. Reason : Reading > me]

4/12/2012 10:46:48 AM

^^ If you're able, go to a local store/range and talk with the guys there, rent a few different guns and just see what you like/don't like in terms of feel, ergonomics, recoil, sights, and so on.

I used to go to PDHSC (off tryon/S wilmington) but their range throws shrapnel back something awful. Whenever I'm in town now I go to Eagle One (off old wake forest).

for the record, I did NOT do this when looking into my first handgun purchase, and while I don't regret what I chose, I wish I had done more research first. live and learn i suppose

4/12/2012 11:09:29 AM

welp ive fallen into the blackhole known as "wanting a custom made american 1874 sharps."

now im looking at all the very expensive options i have to choose from with shiloh and c sharps

very cool webpages / products that you guys should check out. i dont know if anyone here is really into vintage shooting like i am?

id give my left nut to be able to hit a small target at 1000+ yards with blackpowder.

4/12/2012 8:55:41 PM