Quote :

"Furthermore, he is sticking in 80amp fuse in there (apparently had one before). So, that alone alleviates any real need for extra batteries, alt rewiring, and things of the nature. "

I fail to see the correlation here.

1/10/2007 6:20:59 PM

Quote :

"^ wow a full day to come up with a half ass nigger response"

Dude, what is your problem? Would you like to add anything to the thread other than your interjections about black people or is that the limit of your thought capability?

^ The point is, the stock battery and alternator are going to be fine for 90% of the situations he is going to be using this setup for. The fuse is going to pop before he gets to the point where the beefier battery and alternator are going to help.

1/10/2007 7:54:47 PM

lets see, that thing has a 120 amp alternator, with headlights on, ignition, fuel pump, blower motor, abs, etc., it pulls about 90 amps, figure about 10 to charge the battery, that leaves a whopping 20 amps reserve

now, 80>20 so where the hell is the rest of that power gonna come from? the battery, which will drain the voltage down, put more load on the stock alternator, and overheat it, leave him on the side of the road, and he can't even listen to his nigger rigged shit bumping cause his alternator is fried, his battery is dead, and his soccer mom wannabe nigmobile is on fire due to half ass connections

1/10/2007 8:04:28 PM

Average car is in the 50-60 range. Assuming this kid rides around blasting this thing at full volume, his hearing is going to go long before anything else does. With that said, the amp is probably going to pull in the 30-50A range 90% of the time he is using it. No one is going to be stranded, nothing is going to burn up, and you are an asshole.

1/10/2007 8:22:26 PM

50-60 amps is still more than 20= battery discharge because the alternator can't keep up

1/10/2007 9:29:57 PM

[no]

1/10/2007 9:32:32 PM

69 where are you getting your facts from? his alternator should be enough to handle a class d amp pushing 1200watts easy. i've never been stranded nor killed an alternator on my jeep with my 137 amp alternator and i'm ruunnin a 1000w rms sub amp and a 800 rms a/b amp on my mids and highs both of which are very underrated.

1/10/2007 9:57:52 PM

^136 amp alternator

[Edited on January 10, 2007 at 10:04 PM. Reason : .]

1/10/2007 10:03:58 PM

I killed a 90 Amp alternator running close to 1500W RMS.
My 120 Amp alternator is holding up fine.

1/10/2007 10:05:52 PM

daryl did you ever upgrade rthe battery and/or the wiring to the alternator?

1/10/2007 10:09:51 PM

adding a second unmatched battery will just put more load on the alternator, not less

1/10/2007 10:50:31 PM

switchable dual battery setup with one red top and one yellow top anyone?

1/10/2007 11:05:25 PM

I upgraded the battery to an Optima Yellow top.
The wiring is still stock till I get my new box in. Then I am rewiring the entire stereo from front to back. 0 guage power/ ground, 3 sets of RCAs, Big 3.

1/10/2007 11:24:47 PM

Hey 69, who's the dipshit now?

1/14/2007 10:50:39 PM

^ still you fucktard

1/15/2007 12:07:07 AM

This is my last post, but it's pretty easy to see who knows what the fuck they are talking about in this thread.


Here's a hint - it isn't you.

1/15/2007 9:13:23 AM

yes, yes it is, and its funny because everyone here knows that i know what i'm talkin about except you, which makes you a flamin idiot

1/15/2007 10:41:16 AM

Was trolling through the threads and saw this...funny.

1/17/2007 4:31:36 PM

^^^you seem to lack a basic understanding of electricity if you don't see 69's point.

sure, what he's doing will probably get by for a while depending on how he uses it, maybe even a couple years or something. that doesn't change the fact it's going to shorten the life of the alternator and battery. that's a fact you can't argue, i'm not even sure why you're trying to.

now, whether or not he wants to live with that risk and is willing to accept the shortened is certainly up to him, like you've said. it may not be worth it monetarily to switch anything if his stuff already has some age on it anyway.

also, don't think anyone has forgotten the way your faggot ass started out in here talking non stop shit and trying to troll everyone. get over it that you're getting some back.

[Edited on January 17, 2007 at 6:09 PM. Reason : .]

1/17/2007 6:07:13 PM

^ Are you fucking blind? MaximaDriver has more real experience than any of us in here.

Quote :

"I killed a 90 Amp alternator running close to 1500W RMS. My 120 Amp alternator is holding up fine."

Sure, in a idealistic Xs and Ox world, we do what 69 did, which is take all the max numbers and do simple math with them and claim something won't work

In the real world, where real experience and real situations rule the day, you can make some engineering judgments based on reality. Call my suggestions nig rigging all you want, but I have enough experience with car audio and amplifiers to know what will work and what won't.

1/28/2007 12:08:04 PM

do you lack basic reading comprehension skills also? i said it will most likely work fine. the issue is how long it will last and the reliability. you can't argue with the fact it won't live nearly its full life, and that there is a much higher chance of failure.

i know daryl's stuff has worked out fine for him. even he has mentioned to me before that he's overloaded his stuff though, even if he hasn't had any problems.

personally, i don't like dealing with dead shit on the side of the highway. maybe you like that kind of risk.

just because something gets you by and works doesn't make it the right way to do things. just like your brilliant idea of machining rotors to compensate for other parts. it's not like this is some complicated or $texas solution to ensure it's going to be reliable.

Quote :

"I have enough experience with car audio and amplifiers to know what will work and what won't."

you obviously have just enough experience to make you dangerous. enough that you think you know what you're doing, but not enough to actually know.

[Edited on January 28, 2007 at 12:50 PM. Reason : .]

1/28/2007 12:46:31 PM

I also have summa cum laude degrees in electrical and computer engineering to go along with a decade of experience. It's fine if you want to defend your friend since that is what you are doing, but the both of you, despite all your car knowledge, are a little bit out of your league when it comes to the electrical side of things.

Here is another anecdote I missed to.

Quote :

"69 where are you getting your facts from? his alternator should be enough to handle a class d amp pushing 1200watts easy. i've never been stranded nor killed an alternator on my jeep with my 137 amp alternator and i'm ruunnin a 1000w rms sub amp and a 800 rms a/b amp on my mids and highs both of which are very underrated."

1/28/2007 2:15:40 PM

1/28/2007 3:52:39 PM

i know this thread isnt about my stereo anymore, but if anyone cares i decided that im goin to sell my stuff and get some more basic stuff if any at all

1/29/2007 1:08:21 AM

Quote :

"I also have summa cum laude degrees in electrical and computer engineering "

That explains eveything, as long as I have been doing electrical work, I have come across some flaming idiots in the field that are electrical engineers that have no practical knowledge or common sense for that matter. Had one swear up and down to be that you couldn't backfeed a house from a generator through the dryer outlet if you shut the main breaker off, even though I have done this god knows how many times and its just flat out common sense. So $20 and 10 minutes later to make a cord and hook it it in guess what, the house had power, and I didn't have to buy a transfer panel and spend the entire day hooking it up. Then there was the guy that specified 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 through 1 1/2" conduit and swore up and down that his book said it was the correct size until I pulled him out to the truck, showed him some 1 1/2" conduit and a 2 1/2" bundle of service entrance wire and asked himi how the fuck it was gonna fit in there. Then there was the electrical engineer that had to hire me to do some outdoor floodlight wiring at his house because he didn't understand the concept of a three way switch and had the line and load coming into one box with 12-2NM feeding to the other switch and didn't realize that was impossible to make work, he needed 12-3 to do it that way.

So you fall right into this category, next time i need to calculate voltage drop in transmission lines, I'll give you a call. Next time I need to apply practical knowledge to a real world situation, I'll rely on my experience.

1/29/2007 8:50:18 AM

Thats a lot of typed diarrhea that doesn't really have any validity in this thread. I was waiting to see which moron tried to pull the whole "college boy" card.

I never said anything about house wiring or if I could or not (without referencing anything, I couldn't), so why are you bringing this up here? I focused on microelectronics at NCSU, but I guess I should expect a redneck like you to assume Electrical Engineering means power distribution only.

We are however talking about low power car audio stuff, which I have plenty of experience with.

It seems like that whole post you just made, can be turned right back around in your face. Because apparently, you think since you know about house wiring, you know about car audio specifics. And myself and others in this thread are basically showing you don't.

1/29/2007 10:28:08 AM

wow, youre a huge troll

1/29/2007 10:36:23 AM

I'm telling the fucking truth here. If it comes off as trolling, then maybe you need to reevalutate your life.

1/29/2007 10:44:18 AM

maybe its just because you are young, but every post of yours ive seen makes you look like a trolling cunt

1/29/2007 11:47:41 AM

He is a fucking douchebag, I love how putting in a few stereos that retards at best buy can pull off better makes him an expert, for fuck's sake, I just had to make an entire engine wiring harness for 98 5.7 K1500 last weekend for a swap from a 4.3 and since you have no idea about what this entails TypeA because you have no practical experience, that involves splicing in about 40 plugs, and verifing around 150 circuits from the computer pinout. At every shop I have worked at over the years, I have been the go-to guy for quickly diagnosing electrical and electronic issues and damn near anyone on here I have worked with on projects can verify my extensive knowledge of this stuff, so you are just pissin in the wind trying to make me look stupid, in fact you are just coming across as more and more of an idiot who has yet to justify a single comment.

1/29/2007 12:46:27 PM

Quote :

"I just had to make an entire engine wiring harness for 98 5.7 K1500 last weekend for a swap from a 4.3 and since you have no idea about what this entails TypeA because you have no practical experience, that involves splicing in about 40 plugs, and verifing around 150 circuits from the computer pinout."

Look dipshit, this still doesn't have one fucking thing to do with the problem at hand.

My whole suggestion and advice comes from taking the reality and applying the constraints. We're talking about a car amplifier here, and how it will be predominately used, not wiring a god damned house or a wiring harness.

I'm not doing the simple thing you are doing, which is taking the max values of everything and doing grade school arithmetic to arrive at a conclusion. When are you going to get this simple fact through that redneck skull of yours?

I gave the analysis, and I was even validated by 2 anecdotes from other posters, one with power requirements exceeding his by a large extent.

You can back pedal and call it nig rigging by not designing to the max values all you want to, it still shows a severe fundamental misunderstanding of what kinda power is flowing through an amplifier and what is really needed in regards to power handling/supply.

1/29/2007 12:59:33 PM

grow up and find friends

1/29/2007 1:11:46 PM

You mean I can't validate my existence by winning a tdub? I have to...gasp...find friends?

1/29/2007 1:12:56 PM

i'm not telling you what to do, you can nigger rig anything you want, a huge amp aint worth a shit without availible power, which niggers like you have still failed to realize, its like using a drinking straw for an intake on a 572 hemi. and high demands on a charging system not designed for it ain't helpin either, i may be a chemical engineer, but i know damn well out>in= -accumulation.

you have also failed to justify any "knowledge" in the feild that you keep making up shit about. you haven't proved yourself, everyone on here knows you're an idiot, so keep on diggin it deeper

and before you even say anything about my battery setup, you have no idea what knid of truck i have, much less what kind of charging system capacity i have, but i can assure you it well exceeds the demands i plan to make of it, see, i plan for extra capacity so i have things in reserve if i need them, unlike you who nigger rigs shit and replaces it when it fails due to your stupidity

1/29/2007 1:17:48 PM

Quote :

"You can back pedal and call it nig rigging by not designing to the max values all you want to, it still shows a severe fundamental misunderstanding of what kinda power is flowing through an amplifier and what is really needed in regards to power handling/supply."

1/29/2007 4:33:19 PM

this guy is a fucking idiot

1/29/2007 4:41:36 PM

How am I an idiot? You're also calling MaximaDriver an idiot as well let me remind you.

1/29/2007 4:49:01 PM

no, darryl knows what he is talking about, you are an idiot

1/29/2007 4:52:13 PM

So wait, when I said this guys setup would be fine and wouldn't need a second battery and wouldn't need an upgraded alternator, I'm an idiot, but when Maxima said this

Quote :

"I killed a 90 Amp alternator running close to 1500W RMS. My 120 Amp alternator is holding up fine. "

where he is running with less alternator and MORE amplifier power, he knows what he is talking about?


BWHAWHWHWHAHAWHAWHWH

wait...did you really just say that

BHWHWAHWAHWHAWHWAH


Does it taste bitter when you n00b all over yourself like that?

[Edited on January 29, 2007 at 4:55 PM. Reason : I have to make the posts really short for you to comprehend them, I'll keep this in mind in the futu]

1/29/2007 4:54:45 PM

no, i still stand by the fact the daryl knows what he's talking about, you however don't

1/29/2007 4:57:17 PM

I understand it's a tough pill to swallow having the garage "idiot" wipe the floor with your ass in a thread.

1/29/2007 5:04:02 PM

^^damn you're an ignorant.

darryl only said his is WORKING FINE SO FAR. he never said anything about it being the best way to do things. he even said he plans on further upgrades. i would imagine he would agree that it's not the optimal way to do it, but it might get you by.

no one has disagreed that it probably won't work for a while. the POINT is that since you are introducing potential loads in excess of what the charging system is designed to handle, there will be premature failure. whether that's 1 month or 1 year, there's no way to tell.

hell, you may even get lucky enough it lasts a full life. that doesn't make it the right way to do things. why is that so hard to understand?

[Edited on January 29, 2007 at 5:05 PM. Reason : .]

1/29/2007 5:05:18 PM

^ I understand all that, and I thank you for being level headed enough to reply properly. I laid out all my reasoning in the thread for why he will be fine with this setup and he isn't going to be calling AAA. I'll do it one more time.

For starters, he has a 136amp alternator. He also said he ran with an 80 amp fuse before and never popped one, and intends to run with one again. So that effectively caps the current consumption of his amp at 80amps. Since he never popped it, he probably never got close to it.

69 claimed about 90amps under worst case conditions from a car point of view. Worst case conditions from the amplifier is 80amps. Indeed 170 still is greater than 136, but the reality is, his hearing is going to cease to exist long before his alternator dies under these conditions (cruising down the road with windows up, lights on, ac on, blasting stereo at maximum volume for extended periods of time).

For 99% of his use, the amp is going to be drawing 30-40amps, which even under worst case conditions falls under the headroom provided by the alternator.

On top of all my theorizing, two people have posted anecdotes that support my claims

Quote :

"i've never been stranded nor killed an alternator on my jeep with my 137 amp alternator and i'm ruunnin a 1000w rms sub amp and a 800 rms a/b amp on my mids and highs"

Quote :

"running close to 1500W RMS. My 120 Amp alternator is holding up fine."

This isn't the shuttle we are talking about here, this isn't a seatbelt, or some other safety critical item that needs to be built 2x the working range of the part, which is the claim I have been making all along, but all I get is

"you're an idiot, you're an idiot, you're an idiot, you're an idiot, you're an idiot, you're an idiot..."

from this asshole that apparently is either not even reading what I have to say or just can't comprehend it properly.

I mean, for fucks sake, the big amps have 4 gauge terminal blocks intended by design to take a 4 gauge wire directly that this concrete brained bastard is calling nigger rigging.

1/29/2007 5:26:26 PM

OK. I guess I will chime in a little bit.
69 knows what he is talking about.
TypeA also knows what he is talking about.

You guys just disagree right now. Get over it.

I will be running 1800W RMS on my 120 amp alternator. But, that would be under full load, which my car will see maybe .5% of the time or less. The load will be significantly less during daily driving, as I value my hearing. If I were competing in SPL, I would undoubtedly get an Ohio Generator 250A alternator.

To the not in the know: (dumbed down shit and all)
The OP wanted to be cheap about the install with his plans. We all told him not do what he was planning. He needed a battery isolater, and to understand what he was doing.
A second battery will not neccessarily(sp) add a burden to the alternator. The benifit of a second battery is to take care of massive current draw (not his problem), or to help play for a longer period with the car off (also not his problem). If there is extra current will be used to charge the second battery if there is an isolater used. That is if the alternator is large enough to have a surplus able to be produced. A second battery if just tossed into the system will add a burden to the alternator.

1/29/2007 5:56:20 PM

Funny how this thread died after his friend, the guy he looks up to for car audio expertise, validated everything I have been saying.

1/30/2007 12:31:49 PM

dude, the thread died on the 17th. you brought it back up ELEVEN days later.

i don't know who's friend of who you're talking about validating anything you've said, but darryl basically made my same points.

1/30/2007 12:39:27 PM

Quote :

"I will be running 1800W RMS on my 120 amp alternator. But, that would be under full load, which my car will see maybe .5% of the time or less. The load will be significantly less during daily driving, as I value my hearing. If I were competing in SPL, I would undoubtedly get an Ohio Generator 250A alternator."

This is the same argument I am essentially making, only SbTeAeTrE is drawing around half the power with a slightly juicier alternator.

1/30/2007 12:51:16 PM

since when have i ever looked up daryl for expertise on car audio? i'll be damned if i've ever asked him a question about it or anyone else for that matter because i don't really give a shit

this comes down to power load on a vehicle electrical system, something nigs like you can't comprehend, but i used to see the results of everyday

1/30/2007 3:17:32 PM

HATE HATE HATE HATE

1/30/2007 3:31:13 PM

Quote :

"this comes down to power load on a vehicle electrical system"

Congrats captain obvious. I'm still waiting on you to go into amplifier theory rather than the mfg claimed amp ratings (which everyone knows is a lie) in discussing this subject matter.


I think it's hilarious you're so hell bent on not losing this battle, that you first claimed you trusted Maxima, then when he didn't come to your pathetic defense, then said you'll be damned if you ever question him about something you don't know.

This is comical dude, it really is. Keep posting though, and thinking you have a clue.

1/30/2007 3:41:41 PM