drunknloaded Suspended 147487 Posts user info edit post |
so many good car experts in this thread...i saw blue ram, baonest, optprime, maximadrvr, etc. 2/5/2007 5:28:12 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
2/5/2007 11:01:41 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
it's okay, you're "etc." lol.
i'm not an expert, i'm just really good at google. 2/6/2007 12:00:05 AM |
tripleD4u All American 6247 Posts user info edit post |
lol w0000000t 2/6/2007 12:02:19 AM |
ssclark Black and Proud 14179 Posts user info edit post |
poor 69 2/6/2007 12:05:40 AM |
greeches Symbolic Grunge 2604 Posts user info edit post |
yea, deja.com rocks 2/6/2007 12:58:42 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
kmqOITKHE ERFCUKER SAIKNM DGO NO S KILS 2/6/2007 11:49:10 PM |
underPSI tillerman 14085 Posts user info edit post |
bttt per request 7/9/2008 6:59:42 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
Thanks for the bump.
I was looking for mechanic recommendations, and I figured better to bump rather than to begin a new thread.
I need to find a mechanic in the Raleigh area for my '92 Toyota Camry. Basically, the front driver's side window is stuck down. (Power windows). I got the trim opened up to look at the wiring, etc. and see whether or not the motor is something I could replace on my own. (It's looking a bit out of my league). Wiring looks okay, so I'm thinking it's probably either the motor or the regulator. The person who owned it before me (my girlfriend) had it replaced a couple years ago, although that may have been the motor, and I don't know what quality of work they did. So it could very well just be the regulator.
Basically, anyone know of a good mechanic (or want to do some side work) that could fix my window? (I can do some repairs on my own - like I replaced the passenger door handle just today, but this one is looking a little beyond me.)
Thanks! 7/9/2008 7:15:30 PM |
optmusprimer All American 30318 Posts user info edit post |
yeah its 99% that its the regulator. ive done more than i care to remember, if you want i can fix yours too. 7/9/2008 10:11:09 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
I have my suspicion that this is the case too, as I can't seem to even manually pull up the glass to have a look at the bastard.
PM sent. 7/9/2008 10:12:45 PM |
baonest All American 47902 Posts user info edit post |
if it was winter time id tell you to just rip the regulator off and tape the window in the up position 7/9/2008 10:22:30 PM |
zxappeal All American 26824 Posts user info edit post |
Damn Yota cable regulators. I've done a few.
Funny thing is, just about every parts store in town carries them. Shows you how often they fuck up. 7/9/2008 10:31:37 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
Re-bump because a new issue now.
Basically, as I was on my way over to optmusprimer's place to get the window fixed, the radiator busts a leak. Had to limp the smoking car back home.
So - anyone have any recommendations for a good mechanic in the near-campus area? I'm constrained by the fact that I can't limp this thing too far, so it has to be near campus if possible. (Or if someone reaaaaaly wants to do a side job and come out here to do it... hah.)
Thanks! 7/11/2008 2:02:47 PM |
MaximaDrvr
10401 Posts user info edit post |
radiators are one of the easiest things to replace. If I were going to be in town more I would do it, but I leave for MI soon. 7/11/2008 2:08:56 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
Really? Huh. I'm looking at the Haynes manual now - so this is something a reasonably adept novice could do on their own, you think? (Assuming I were to go out and get the part on my own.) 7/11/2008 2:26:51 PM |
shmorri2 All American 10003 Posts user info edit post |
Yeah. It can be messy (fluid draining), but it's extremely easy. Normally you just have to remove whatever might be in the way (ie: fan shroud, etc) and disconnect the 2 or so hoses that are connected to the radiator. Make sure you have a large pan to catch the radiator fluid (don't let it spill on the ground...) Replace the radiator, put everything back in its appropriate place, and fill it up with fluid. different people have different ways of "burbing" the system to get any air out, but a basic method is to leave the fill cap off and pour fluid into both the filler neck and resevoir until they are full. Run your car and add fluid slowly to the fill neck on the radiator. You should see air bubbles coming out. If it starts to overflow, turn the car off and put the cap back on. Make sure the resevoir is still full, top it off as necessary. Keep some extra coolant in the car so you can add some more if you notice it's low. Drive it around some and check it, or just make sure to check after the next time to you drive it somewhere to make sure you're not low.
Hope this helps. 7/11/2008 3:11:25 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
It does, actually.
I had to replace a water pump long ago ('88 Bonneville), and this doesn't sound too much worse than that. Good to know. 7/11/2008 3:27:35 PM |
Jeepman All American 5882 Posts user info edit post |
^ I could help you out early next week if you decide not to tackle the radiator replacement. Let me know, i'm pretty close to campus 7/11/2008 4:42:30 PM |
beethead All American 6513 Posts user info edit post |
just a note.. some radiators have a little drain spout on the bottom.. its a lot less messy that just popping off a hose..
dunno about your specific application 7/11/2008 5:09:47 PM |
optmusprimer All American 30318 Posts user info edit post |
steve if you want to buy the parts and have the car towed to my place i can do the radiator and the window regulator at the same time. 7/12/2008 3:41:00 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
Actually, so far I'm having some success. Taking a break right now, since I need to wait for my ride to get home to get a socket head, but I've got the radiator fan out mostly out, and once I get the union bolt off, I can get that + the radiator out.
Now the only side challenge is getting the thermostat assembly out such that I can replace that. It's kind of a pain the in ass, since it's situated right below the serp belt, but hopefully it'll come right off with the right socket. (Here's to hoping). The Haynes manual seems to make it look like getting the thermostat out is not such a big deal. (I mean, I figure, if I have the coolant drained, I may as well put a new thermostat in before it goes out, right?)
Outside of some of the more irritating parts of this job (like getting the undercover off), I've been surprised at how straightforward this particular job is. 7/12/2008 4:06:53 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
So, good thing I decided to have a look at the thermostat - it was stuck open, which may have contributed to the radiator blowing. Getting the housing out was a royal pain the ass - three bolts and two of them pretty hard to see (one of them actually completely obscured - had to feel it out). Haynes manual only showed one (of course).
Got the new thermostat in and the housing on, just need to get the rest of the assembly back in place and pop the new radiator in and I should be good... 7/13/2008 5:33:10 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
Quote : | "it was stuck open, which may have contributed to the radiator blowing" |
no7/13/2008 6:02:37 PM |
DrSteveChaos All American 2187 Posts user info edit post |
I should correct that. Stuck closed. The radiator reservoir cracked/corroded, but I have to think that the stuck thermostat can't be unrelated... 7/13/2008 9:08:20 PM |
The Dude All American 6502 Posts user info edit post |
anyone here want to replace my brake line in my 98 escort? 7/15/2008 12:58:07 PM |