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12/3/2009 3:53:02 PM

haha even in the garage yall do that page bump thing?


lol

12/3/2009 5:12:18 PM

^^^Dietric is the man. I could talk to him for hours and he knows his BMWs and old Porsches.

12/3/2009 6:54:46 PM

detrich will fix you up, but his wait time is probably too long for what you are looking for. He is more useful for MAJOR work.

It sounds like what you got quoted is high, but if you want quick turnaround than it isnt too far off.

Last time i bought OEM brake pads from BMW it was like $180 for a front set (my cost, retail was more!). Im not sure about a x3, but I wouldn't imagine they would be bad.

That car only has a brake sensor on the driver side. You should only need that one. There isnt one on the passenger side.

Last time i did a water pump on a wp on that motor (in a e36) it took about 3 hrs. BMW pays 3.5 hr on that engine.

You might as well do a t-stat while you are in there.



If you want, I can do that for close to half price this weekend. Saturday morning we can meet at Leith BMW and we will knock it out in the BMW shop for you.

I will use all OEM bmw parts as well. They all come with a 2 year parts+labor warranty and some (like the waterpump) come with lifetime parts warranty.

If you are interested, pm me your number so we can set it up and i can give you exact prices.

12/3/2009 10:26:18 PM

Unless warped or damaged, two sets of pads should go for rotor life. I would not push 3 sets of pads. If rotors are resurfaced properly they will be just fine. They are exceptions of course depending on driving style, vehicle weight, driving habits, whether you are tracking the car ...etc.

12/3/2009 11:10:05 PM

Well, not exactly

If the rotor does not have too much runout and is not scored/grooved/etc. then slapping THE SAME TYPE OF PADS on and NOT having it machined will most likely work out the best. You wont get anywhere near maximum life out of the pads, but you wont unnecessarily make the rotor thinner either.

Getting some of this shit through the heads of you desk driving fanboys is damn near impossible! Bottom line is I have been dealing with cheapskate euro owners for seven or eight years and hands down if you aren't a total inept moron the best path to take is renew pads AND rotors. Why do you think the list price on the european rotors stays so high? Because you cheap fucks aren't buying rotors! You buy a shitload of pads though since you are short-stopping it and wearing them out faster- and as such the cost of the pads alone is nice and low.

[Edited on December 4, 2009 at 3:30 AM. Reason : wheres bliley, lets see what he thinks]

12/4/2009 3:30:02 AM

Joel, nobody is disagreeing that what you are saying is the ideal and safest scenario. Money permitting, one should always do both at the same time. For all practical purposes, seriously, changing pads will suffice. I have done it for past 12 years on various cars without any issues, and so have many, many others. Heat issues you mentioned are concern for people who track cars or vehicles that see more extreme city conditions (example: cabbies in NYC). I'd be wary about skipping resurfacing rotors as it can glaze new pads.

on another note...since we are in bmw thread...very interesting find

http://www.billswebspace.com/E92M3AftersalesTraining.pdf

[Edited on December 4, 2009 at 5:07 AM. Reason : tech info ]

12/4/2009 5:05:48 AM