that sounded awesome... a high rpm cummins would be sweet if it was anywhere near possible.



Dayyummn...

[Edited on August 17, 2011 at 9:25 AM. Reason : .]

8/17/2011 9:19:46 AM

standalone controllers for the commonrail motors are allowing the guys to pull to ~5500 and free rev to 6k... lots of the big-boy pullers turn 5k+ in their mechanical injected cummins


^can't find the vid i was looking for - beans diesel performance, he's got a few 5500+ dyno runs that will give goose bumps



bear in mind that at that high of rpm the power starts to drop off because of engine design limitations... ~4k is the power limit. most guys that rev 5k+ are pulling and need the wheel speed so they can be in the peak power rpm range at the end of the track

here it is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00CSgNlx2bk&feature=related

[Edited on August 17, 2011 at 9:38 AM. Reason : -]

8/17/2011 9:32:00 AM

So i realize i have a problem.

My Subaru is my DD and has become a project car.
My next car will either be another subaru or an awd 325
which will be a project car.
Then i want to get an older cummins to be able to tow stuff and do yard work
... and i'll probably want to turn it into a project car.


WTF!?!?!?!?!
why is stock not good enough!

8/17/2011 9:39:14 AM

hahah

I just like fucking with stuff to 'make it better' (whatever better is in my eyes)

8/17/2011 9:40:04 AM

Well i'm at-least smart enough to not have them all torn apart at once...
That way if one of the ones that isn't already apart breaks... i still have a backup.

Seriously though... i wanted to do a 325 for a drifter car kind of thing... but then i saw this.



and this




and suddenly my jeeping days crossed with my subie days and i said... it will be mine.. ohh yes it will be mine...

8/17/2011 9:55:21 AM

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=2050489897034

8/26/2011 5:50:07 PM

saw that a long time ago on CompD... what a fuckstick. Shit like that is what's going to get a hard crackdown from the popo on smoke opacity

8/29/2011 7:31:24 AM

yeah i just saw it on my dad's friend's FB page... apparently he knows the kid...

Honestly they're douchebags but i still found it funny.

8/29/2011 7:36:24 AM

dustm's thread reminded me:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Okn7MTZ0OWA

2.3L whipple, being fed by a 80mm/.96 T4 Y2K turbo

9/19/2011 7:37:42 AM

non intercooled?


What kind of power could you get from a setup like that with an intercooler?

Looks like fun :-)


n/m looks like it comes off the bottom of the blower to the IC.

[Edited on September 19, 2011 at 8:15 AM. Reason : .]

9/19/2011 8:03:54 AM

factory intercooler, discharge snakes beside block over to intercooler... see the black 'horn' on the farside, that connects to intercooler discharge




no clue about power levels, probably 550-750 depending on setup? Right now the biggest limitations are matching blower displacement/boost with the compounding setup from the turbo.

[Edited on September 19, 2011 at 8:12 AM. Reason : -]

[Edited on September 19, 2011 at 8:13 AM. Reason : -]

9/19/2011 8:06:26 AM

How much total boost can these suckers take?

Seems like having a blower would just be like increasing the effective displacement of the motor (speeding up spool on a big turbo?) But then you'd get like 100psi in a heart beat.

9/19/2011 8:24:57 AM

not sure, I've read some blower models can't be fed with very much pressure, something about the seals (and I'm no expert). As far as the blower goes, yeah, i mean it's the same as a compound turbo setup only the flow 'map' would be wildly different as far as mass flow vs. time (rpm, etc.)

As for boost I'd say that guy's pushing 60psi or so? I'm betting that the turbo is probably pushing 20-30psi as well...and from his thread he mentions that the whipple can produce 30psig from atmosphere (not sure what it's absolute operating pressure would be)

[Edited on September 19, 2011 at 8:40 AM. Reason : -]

9/19/2011 8:40:11 AM

getting light with the front wheels

9/20/2011 3:07:49 PM

Here's a quick rundown of a group of the quickest/fastest diesel vehicles currently:

Quote :

"1. Scheid's rail 6.82, 195.14 -12v ppump, water 2. Banks Rail 7.17 @ 181.08, 2290 lbs, Liberty XT5/Molinari Clutch - BANKS 3. Banks Sidewinder Type-D 7.72 @ 179, Liberty XT5/Bruno - BANKS 4. Dr. Performance BrakeSmart Rail 7.75, 165 -nitrous 5. NX dragster 7.829 @ 172.08, (6-11-11) LBZ, Powerglide - Johnboy 6. GM Diesel 7.876 @ 171.75, (9-29-11) 2800 lbs, Lenco - Johnboy 7. Darren Morrison (quarterman) 7.79, 166 -Pro Stock truck, 12v, water 8. Cummins Racing Rail Bentz 7.98, 167.43 -24v ppump, nitrous 9. John Robinson 8.09, XXX -Funny Car 10. Chad Riley (altered roadster) 8.26, 161.76 -24v, ppump 11. Stock600 {Altered} 8.27 @152 -12v/TH400, best 60' 1.161 12. Dr. Performance truck 8.29 @ 167 - Greg Hogue, Pro stock truck 13. Keating Machine 8.71, 158.4 -Pro Stock truck, 12v, water 14. Dirtymax 8.78 (5-14-11) @ 154.32 (9-26-10) 3268 lbs, LB7, Lenco - ATP 15. NX Mustang 9.216 @ 154.5 (9-18-10) 3600 lbs, LB7, 4L80 - Johnboy "

10/5/2011 4:49:30 PM

Cole Dow, 9.64 @ 139, first gen dodge 4x4; this guy hand built the truck wtih his brother-









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uVyKyyq4qM

Quote :

" HOOD STACK FLAME"

10/17/2011 2:54:25 PM

i wonder why someone wrote down their blood pressure on the intake tube?

10/17/2011 7:17:17 PM

Anyone ever messed with homebrewing biodiesel? There's a dude at work who does it.

It would be dirt cheap and kinda cool, but from what I'm reading, it sounds like kind of a pain in the ass. I'm also a little scared of mixing methanol and lye to do it.

10/17/2011 7:44:31 PM

this thread needs more pics of the girl from rudy's

10/17/2011 9:47:45 PM

Quote :

"i wonder why someone wrote down their blood pressure on the intake tube? "

Nitrous jet size is all I can imagine

10/18/2011 7:40:57 AM

^^^ i've looked into it before working on a buddie's truck but his old cummins was one of the ones that could run on straight grease so we did that instead.

Its not hard... i have all the stuff from soap making to do it but why add steps into it when you could get an older engine that runs on straight grease and not have to worry about how much it was over cooked and how much lye/alki to add in etc.

10/19/2011 11:40:08 AM

WVO (and WMO) dont really appear to be worth the hassle... unless you are the owner/neighbor of a facility that has an excess of the stuff.

10/21/2011 2:18:34 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYAWCNhG4zk&feature=youtu.be


giggity

10/30/2011 10:37:52 AM

that 5k rev video made me cringe the whole time



Question: My fuel gauge doesn't work so I keep a couple gallons in my tool box for the occasion that I miscalculate with the odo and run it dry. To try and keep it as fresh as possible/water to a minimum I always dump the fuel in that can into the tank and refill it with fresh fuel, but even still it tends to sit several weeks between fillups. Today I was dumping it in at the station and noticed that it was a sweet baby blue...is that a chemical marker or did I luck out and overpay for some o' that tax-free gubment diesel? I've only been to regular gas stations and paid my dues so I'd be pretty pissed if somehow I got popped for burning the stuff on the highway

11/8/2011 4:19:36 PM

Off-highway stuff is red dye. That's all I have to offer.

11/8/2011 5:15:25 PM

Yeah I've gotten some red too, ran my truck out of gas one day on Gorman St. and as luck would have it the first vehicle I flagged down (no diesel in the immediate area) was an earthmover supply truck. I wasn't aware of the difference at the time, and the driver couldn't have cared less. If I'd had any more sense I'd have let him top off my 35gal tank


But from my understanding of it:

Clear - Consumer/Highway use. Full tax, lowest sulfur.
Red - Construction/Farm/Nonhighway use. Low tax, moderate sulfur.
Blue - Government/Farm/Nonhighway use. No tax, highest sulfur.

And apparently if you're allowed to run both red and blue it's your choice but don't let them catch you with purple fuel. I'd be interested in an explanation to that one.


I find it hard to believe I happened to accidentally get a hold of some blue diesel at a typical north raleigh service station, so I was wondering if turning blue was a chemical sign that the fuel was bad somehow.

[Edited on November 8, 2011 at 8:16 PM. Reason : asdf]

11/8/2011 8:08:48 PM

I'm not a ford man, but I can't be more proud of an NC truck...turning the powerstroke world upsidedown:




as shown, 75mm & 95mm billet turbos... billet heads... tapered runner intake. I'm overcome with emotion

11/15/2011 10:16:51 AM

that looks like a pretty sweet setup

I was with Jeepman and zxappeal last night and they were messing around with a 93 Cummins Ram...

11/15/2011 10:18:17 AM

...you should come touch my truck

11/15/2011 10:20:18 AM

BUMMP

ok, so if i were looking to get a 10k diesel truck to mod... cummins is probably the way to go right?

Or is the old 7.3PS a decent one too... (i don't like GM and i don't want overly complicated electronics on my engine lol)

Then... does one start with turbo, pump, or injectors after a tuner thingy

12/1/2011 9:29:29 AM

gotta look at total budget and final power levels.... powerstroke wont get you there hp/$


realistically there are a few dodge 'camps'

89-93 12V - mechanical rotary pump, are the ugly stepchild of the crew. can make power... wouldnt really bother.

dodge 94-98 12V, mechanical injection... good power capability, but the truck will need maintenance & trans will need to be built. best aftermarket support, my favorite, but its a little tough to keep it from running smokey when you're building 550+whp

dodge 24V, 98.5-02 - electronic controlled rotary IP, can make good power but it's the redheaded step-child of the dodges. tuners available out the wazoo

dodge 24V Commonrail 03-present (5.9/6.7L) - commonrail power! the sky (and your wallet) is the limit. best bet for minimum smoke and maintaining power. tuner & other mods can net 500+whp with minimal effort


Trans will have to be built regardless. I would find out what power level you can live with, and then compare builds for each truck type, and maybe go from there. if you want a truck that you can use every day and still have power, the 03-06 5.9 CR's (pre-DPF) are the way to go. the others are usable... but as you are a powerjunkie I'm betting you'd want MOST MOAR POWR as possible




edit#3 - you can do tuner/intake/exhaust shit first... save injectors & turbo for same time to avoid driving around a coal train... not the best setup.

[Edited on December 1, 2011 at 10:07 AM. Reason : -]

12/1/2011 10:02:17 AM

Cool...

ok so the 5.9/6.7 setup... are they the same block with some bore & strokage or are they completely different engines?

12/1/2011 10:21:00 AM

not completely sure, 6.7 is larger bore, and I think there are some head differences.


realistically... you need to start perusing http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums it's the 'yellowbullet' of diesel sites.

[Edited on December 1, 2011 at 10:23 AM. Reason : -]

12/1/2011 10:23:28 AM

I'm assuming manuals are a bad idea by the shear amount of torque involved.

the new diesels also have emissions and extensive inspection shit too right?

When did that begin to occur...

i don't want a truck i need to have creatively inspected.

[Edited on December 1, 2011 at 11:00 AM. Reason : .]

12/1/2011 10:38:43 AM

- manuals suck for shift speed and clutch size/capacity necessary. some people like them, but i dont. that and losing boost between shifts is the suck... i gain boost when i shift gears jk
- pre-DPF equipped trucks are best, however it appears that 'deleted' trucks are getting inspected regardless ('05-older is safe bet)

12/1/2011 11:11:48 AM

so.... it seems an early common-rail is where i should go then??

12/1/2011 11:43:02 AM

welll.... you'd want a late-03 to 05 model, as the early 03's have the 47re versus the 48re, and iirc 03-04.5 have injector issues sometimes as well... not 'really' a problem, but another item to consider.

$16k for a good truck in that area, $4k-6k for trans... $4k for mods?

12/1/2011 11:51:26 AM

humph... i'm depressed now...

i'll probably stick with a 12 valve cause i actually like the looks better anyway and i like the less electricness of them.

12/1/2011 12:01:28 PM

nothing to be scared of, but the more you know, the better. adam8778 had to swap injectors because of that.... and he's got the 47re thing going too.

truck runs like hell with a smarty, intake/exh/50hp DDP injector tips

12/1/2011 12:05:16 PM

Don't poo poo the 24V just cause you it didn't suit your extreme race-truck needs, with ~500 in mods my truck has all the power I will ever need/want out of it and its reliable. Don't look at an auto truck unless it has a built trans with a warranty or you have another $3K laying around. I am thinking of selling mine for one reason and one reason only- my wife won't let me put my daughter's car seat in the back.

12/1/2011 12:21:26 PM

not poo-pooing, everyone's entitled to their input here

12/1/2011 1:10:40 PM

yeah i like manuals a lot but i don't think flat-foot shifting works/is availible/won't grenade a tranny in a diesel.

I'm not going for an 11 second truck or anything i'm just trying to see what's available.

the 12v trucks can be converted to veggie oil pretty easily too i think...

now this is something i could get behind...

http://why.knovel.com/all-engineering-news/1021-students-vegetable-oil-powered-truck-breaks-land-speed-record.html

[Edited on December 1, 2011 at 1:49 PM. Reason : .]

12/1/2011 1:47:42 PM

Quote :

"I'm not going for an 11 second truck or anything i'm just trying to see what's available. "

12/1/2011 2:13:58 PM

Well maybe I am... But I'm not trying to be. Lol.

12/1/2011 8:54:05 PM

SEE !

another thing to consider is the cost of mods - 12V and 98.5-02 24V's will be somewhat cheaper than the CR's, and 12V's are basically the cheapest since you wont be paying ~$500 or so for a tuner. If you're going to be a tinkering fool (like me), then 12V is your dog.


Or if you're like adam8778 and want to TURN IT UP TO 11 (er, Smarty level 9), an electronic controlled jobber is more fitting.

12/2/2011 8:47:44 AM

used tuner with built in gauges 300
straight exhaust at rj's 200
volant air intake 80

That was enough to take mine from driving like a ups truck to being WOT scary... and I never even turned the tuner all the way up. It alerts me if fuel pressure gets too low or EGT, boost, various temps get too high, has built in adjustable turbo timer and adjustable low boost fuel trim. It weighs 7000 pounds and gets 16MPG. I don't know what flat floot shifting is relative to big trucks but should this updated NV4500 blow up, another reman one is less than a grand... hurley how much do you have in your transmission again?

Aside from mechanical differences, the biggest difference in a 24v truck is the extended cabs had rear suicide doors.

12/2/2011 9:22:41 AM

I've got close to $3k in the trans, and that's with some tools, shifter setup, extra clutches, bushings, random parts not needed or over-estimated, two derale coolers, $400 worth of SS braided -AN lines and fittings, double-deep pan, billet input, upgraded planetary sets, manual shift kit
$5300 truck
$3000 trans
$1400 turbo/manifold/wastegate
$150 intake
$500 injectors
$100 delivery valves
$40 hand made air horn



There's probably another $3k in random shit that i've done including back-half, replacemnt parts, wheels, exhaust shit, fuel cell, front end lowering parts


my pride & joy intake:






[Edited on December 2, 2011 at 9:51 AM. Reason : -]

12/2/2011 9:50:58 AM

anyone need a replacement overflow valve? somehow managed to order two

[Edited on December 6, 2011 at 1:15 AM. Reason : for p7100]

12/6/2011 1:14:53 AM

completely stock replacement (and not a tork tek?)

12/6/2011 7:21:25 AM

yep, oem-style with the ball spring retainer

12/6/2011 7:58:56 AM