that's like my vet saying 2.5mg of prednisone isn't a clinically significant dosage but if i don't give it to my dog she itches like crazy

8/23/2017 3:28:38 PM

I'm putting in synthetic grass pretty soon. just in time to avoid fall allergies

8/24/2017 10:21:03 PM

Quote :

"Front yard is overrun with torpedograss. Been fighting it for 2-3 years since all my grass got ruined by a bad batch of fertilizer. Finally to the point where the only solution is to completely kill the front yard and re-sod. I'm replacing the centipede with St Aug's, since I've already been patching the backyard with St Aug's."

Fuuuuuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck.

My idiot neighbors won't agree to me killing/re-sodding a 2' wide strip where their property borders mine, where it's overrun with torpedo grass.

There's no point in totally removing, re-leveling, and re-sodding my lawn just for the torpedograss to run right back into it, so fuck it. I cancelled the job contract. Hopefully I can get the $450 deposit back, even though it's supposed to be non-refundable (because they have to order sod, etc...but I cancelled it before they ordered anything).

If my lawn is gonna be completely fucked, it's gonna be completely fucked for free...and we're gonna suffer together, looking out at bare dirt, erosion, and invasive weeds that will ultimately run all over both of our yards. I turned off the irrigation system, too. Fuck it, I'll let it go completely to hell, because I'm not spending time or money on an exercise in futility.

I can't wait to move, and live somewhere on a larger piece of land, not in any neighborhood. I fucking hate subdivisions. Mine is about to establish an HOA tonight, too, so that'll be a whole new layer of people being a pain in the ass.

[Edited on August 27, 2017 at 3:56 PM. Reason : ]

8/27/2017 3:55:53 PM

My fescue yard is overrun with broadleaf and some crabgrass. Should I try and kill them now that the daytime temps are low enough? Most products say u can seed after a month, so I'd be looking at a late Sept overseed which should be the right timing. Question is if any of these products will actually be able to kill these established weeds. I know there's no chance of killing the crabgrass, but if I could take out the broadleaf crap that would help lots.

[Edited on August 27, 2017 at 4:07 PM. Reason : ^ that blows. Keep us updated ]

8/27/2017 4:06:18 PM

if it's just broadleaf get a product called speed zone. it'l kill most and you can seed in 2 weeks. if you have some grassy weeds mixed in go for q4 it'll do all the stuff that speed zone does + stunt the sedges and kill some grassy weeds. just be careful with the mix.

8/27/2017 6:56:48 PM

^^ HOA established. 8 people ran for the board; 4 were selected (+ the developer holds a seat as long as he continues to hold at least a 5% stake in the neighborhood).

I ran, advocating for a minimalist HOA that maintains the entranceway landscaping, pays the power bill of entrance lighting, and little else unless someone does something WAY out of line. I came in dead last by 1 vote, haha.

The 4 who were selected were the 4 who advocated for the most extensive HOA. These stupid fucks want to hire a 3rd-party management company, at significant expense, who I'm sure will exercise little restraint and will aggravate the shit out of people.

Fuck this, I'm gonna meet with a couple of builders this week. I'll either buy/build a sweet house on a couple of acres, with zero goddamn neighbors, or I'll buy something cheap and spend my money on airplanes and boats, and basically treat it like a shitty rental, except the equity and tax advantages will be mine.

I was already thinking about it for a couple of other reasons (starting with...I don't like neighborhoods to begin with). The only plus is that they're cost effective due to the small lots. It would be one thing if there was social value in it, but I've never once observed that in practice. I'm not going to have (and pay for) a nice place that I take pride in, only to not really be able to keep my property in top condition, and then fucking pay someone else to hassle me for, among other things, my lawn disrepair.

8/27/2017 11:30:19 PM

^^^yes. if your fescue is fairly healthy, broadleaf control at this point is fine, especially with lower temperatures. Would still be better to spot spray, but if that's not an option, broadcast away

8/28/2017 7:58:07 AM

Put down stones in the flower bed at the new house. Pretty pleased with it. Now my mulch won't wash away. I have flower beds that cover the sides too. Not sure if I'm going to use the same stone or go with a black plastic.



[Edited on September 14, 2017 at 10:50 AM. Reason : .]

9/14/2017 10:50:14 AM

I sprayed some weed kill stuff on my lawn maybe 2 weeks ago and plan on seeding this fall.

I keep reading on these products that you have to wait x weeks before seeding, why is that? Because the environment will be too toxic for seedlings? Was thinking about another round of weed kill and wondering why that might be a bad idea if I'm planning on seeding in 2-3 weeks.

9/14/2017 12:13:28 PM

I dunno brah, but last year around this time I did a weed + feed + seed all at once (while aerating) and my lawn was lush af this year

9/14/2017 1:44:38 PM

some have residual effects. just overseed now and spray after 4 mowings

9/14/2017 6:05:52 PM

^

9/15/2017 7:30:25 AM

What's the best thing to remove all vegetation from my yard? I've got like 20 square feet of grass and a quarter acre of weeds.. Gas and a match or what? Round up doesn't seem to do much. Plus there's way too much. I've been through 2 of their jugs so far

9/15/2017 9:54:44 AM

Use the dispenser you plug your hose into

9/15/2017 2:19:20 PM

^^ go get glyphosate from tractor supply, i know you said round up didnt work but you can make a more concentrated batch and it is a lot cheaper buying generic glyphosate

9/15/2017 3:47:48 PM

If glyphosate wont kill it, you're doing it wrong....or its already dead

9/15/2017 6:37:44 PM

So I got some concentrate and made it just a hair stronger than they suggested, and it seems to be working on some things. A lot of grassy type stuff it doesn't look like it is though. Maybe I'm not spraying enough? I sprayed 4 gallons over about 500' of fence line and driveway. Or I need to wait more than 2 days to see something..

9/17/2017 12:58:13 PM

the generic glyphosate I use it takes 7-14 days for the plant to die. Typically 7 for the plant to look sickly, 14 for obvious death.

I've heard a rumor that roundup adds fertilizer or some type of growth accelerant to the mix so the plant dies quicker (but who knows).

9/17/2017 4:37:16 PM

if you have any bermudagrass, it may take longer/more applications to get rid of.

9/18/2017 11:09:28 AM

Quote :

"I've heard a rumor that roundup adds fertilizer or some type of growth accelerant to the mix so the plant dies quicker (but who knows)."

The chemical is called Diquat. Round up is made up of glyphosate and Diquat. Its not an accelerant, it is also a herbicide that is faster acting but not as powerful. It kind of "partially" kills the plant quickly so that the glyphosate user using "round up" brand notices effects sooner and feels better about themselves for choosing round-up.

In the grand scheme of things, it actually hurts the process. Glyphosate is a slow systemic killer. You want the plant to be actively growing and to slowly die so that the glyphosate can spread throughout it before totally killing it. You dont want Diquat making it very sick before distributing the gly.

Yes, generic glyphosate (without Diquat, like round up has), should work in about 14 days for full kill. If you have some super hard to kill weeds or weeds with a waxy coating, either buy some cheap surfactant or you can try to add a few drops of dawn dish soap to act as a surfactant

Moral of the story: Dont buy Round-Up

[Edited on September 23, 2017 at 9:49 PM. Reason : ]

9/23/2017 9:41:30 PM

Any recommendations for a landscape company? I don't mean a Trugreen type place or a mowing service. Our backyard is a disaster (or, more optimistically a blank slate!) and I don't have the time to overhaul it. We probably need new topsoil, drainage improvements, sod, a paver area, and some minimal amount of design effort to make it all work. Any suggestions? I'm in Raleigh, would hope to support a State grad's company.

9/24/2017 7:00:46 AM

where you at?

9/24/2017 8:40:25 AM

missed that part!

here is a link to the landscape contractors' licensing board. you'll want to get one of us off the list
https://nclclb.com/licensee-search/corporate-license/

I don't know you budget whatnot but Bland in Apex does good work. There are lots of options in raleigh though. Just browse the list that that link will give you and call 3. Don't expect free designs. You may do better to find a designer first and then have a few quotes on the project.

9/24/2017 8:45:30 AM

^ I always think its unfortunate that they named their company "Bland Landscaping"

Obviously, its the families last name, but still....

9/24/2017 10:00:17 AM

^^ thanks for the list. I know Bland through their commercial work, I didn't realize they do residential. Since you seem familiar with this, what's the "normal" process for residential work? You think it would be better to hire a designer, then get proposals based on that design?

I kind of figured I'd show them where I want grass, the drainage issues we've got, and where we want natural areas then let each of them handle it from there as far as picking out the sod type, plantings etc. I'm not looking for an design-award solution here; we've only on about 0.2 acres total but right now the back is unusable for anyone but the dog. But I'm open to suggestions on picking a designer/builder. Thanks!

9/24/2017 11:56:03 AM

I'm finally going to stop seeding fescue. Too damn hot and dry.

Bermuda has been recommended and has done OK in nearby areas. My next door neighbor tried bermuda, but it never took (I don't think he seeded at the proper time nor watered it). He's trying fescue now and waters the shit out of it. The guy across the street tilled his yard and seeded bermuda. Looks OK, but was pretty brown all summer.

Centipede has done OK near me, someone a few houses down lost a lot of his centipede (not sure if grubs or winter kill). I already have several large, thick patches of centipede that has volunteered.

Then there's zoysia...

So, TWW, what do you recommend? Wendell area (20 miles east of Raleigh). Hard clay (not red clay) soils that are either bone dry or sopping wet. Mostly full sun, a few areas are partial sun. Flat areas, slopes, ditches. Going to start with the front lawn (about 1/3 ac) then do the back yard in the next year or two (about 2/3 ac). I'll be tilling / spreading topsoil in the worst areas (currently bare), but can't do it over the entire acre.

10/3/2017 8:57:43 AM

Centipede is easy

10/3/2017 10:09:28 AM

^^ centipede but from my understanding it’s a bitch to get started from seed. Either sod it or plug it and wait for it to take over.

[Edited on October 3, 2017 at 10:18 AM. Reason : lol]

10/3/2017 10:17:28 AM

^^^^^

http://westlakelandscaper.com/

Try Jason - good guy, honest work, good rep in the holly springs area.

[Edited on October 3, 2017 at 10:30 AM. Reason : ^]

10/3/2017 10:29:41 AM

zoysia is about the best thing going if you get the right one. we install a bunch of zeon. great color.

10/4/2017 8:30:36 PM

^^I want to do an outdoor patio with a fireplace similar to http://westlakelandscaper.com/dsc_0100/ or http://westlakelandscaper.com/img_0131/ on their site.

I'm not sure what those would run. $5k, $10K, $15k? I don't think we have the funds ready now to do it so I hate get them to come out but it would be nice to know a target for saving.

10/5/2017 11:06:23 AM

I wanted to do Zoysia in my new yard (moved 5 months ago and the yard had gone to COMPLETE shit. Basically starting from bare dirt at this point).

I cheaped out and went with Fescue for at least this year. Zoysia is too big of an investment, and I want to get a nice sprinkler system installed first. Maybe next year. But i'm hoping my fescue does better than I think it will.

10/5/2017 9:01:06 PM

^^ $15k is probably going to be closer to your starting point if you are wanting something around the size in those photos with a fire pit / wall / etc... quality of install and material selection play a big part.

10/8/2017 6:56:56 AM

whtmike2k

Sorry for long delay. I'd recommend getting a design from someone independent IF your wanting multiple quotes. If your not going to shop around use on of the bigger companies (like mine) that do design build. Don't be afraid to tell them your budget either. Much easier to design a $10k backyard then designing a $50k backayard then trying to pair it down to meet a budget.

10/13/2017 5:14:52 PM

Finally finished my wall project:

10/16/2017 10:06:00 AM

Is it too late for a winter fertilization for fescue?

12/10/2017 11:29:03 AM

^yes, in that it may not do much, but it won't hurt. Spring fertilizing begins in February.

[Edited on December 19, 2017 at 8:40 AM. Reason : although a week of warm weather may get fescue awake enough to eat]

[Edited on December 19, 2017 at 8:44 AM. Reason : just go light; pretty sure the recommended february rate is low]

12/19/2017 8:39:32 AM

^^^ That's pretty nice.

Is it just stacked block, or did you do a cinder block wall with cemented facade?

12/19/2017 5:43:32 PM

^dry stack natural stone

[Edited on December 20, 2017 at 9:02 AM. Reason : not even blocks]

12/20/2017 9:01:47 AM

Too late to spray roundup on top of dormant Bermuda? Just spot spraying a few areas. Know we’ve had some warm temps lately but my stuff is still looking pretty brown.

[Edited on February 18, 2018 at 8:01 AM. Reason : A]

2/18/2018 7:33:57 AM

When are we deploying crabgasss preventer this season?

[Edited on February 18, 2018 at 2:39 PM. Reason : Might get the stuff without fertilizer so I can do two applications ]

2/18/2018 2:38:57 PM

To answer my own question, I examined the grass a little closer and it’s definitely putting out a little new growth so I went with 2, 4-d instead.

2/18/2018 2:44:13 PM

Quote :

"When are we deploying crabgasss preventer this season?"

Soon.


I'd typically say late February is when you'd want to do it.



And yes, do not spray round up on Bermuda this late...you'll probably have some dead spots. Good news is that it would heal itself quickly!

2/18/2018 5:28:38 PM

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/viburnum-awabuki-chindo/

Considering buying some to make a natural hedge down my lot line.

Any comments?

3 gallon = $15? 5 gallon=$45? 7 Gallon=$110? Any one a better deal than another? I think I need about 20 plants, so the 7 gallons probably out unless its absolutely the right way to go, then Id prolly do half this year and half next year.

4/3/2018 3:47:58 PM

I bought 12 of those last October. Evergreen and they took pretty well given the clay/gravel nature of my yard's underbelly. Lasted through our many snows (srsly...WTF?!) even after being recently transplanted. In short: they're legit. I bought them at Broadwell's at I think $9 each for 3 gallon plants.

4/3/2018 4:37:19 PM

Chindo is good for a screen. i'd personally buy something larger than a 3 gallon if you can find it at a decent price. a 3 gallon is probably gonna be 24" and may or may not have good, upright shape to it (you can find some pretty ones, don't get me wrong). i only say that about the shape because we've grown them for years (family owns a nursery) and they require a little pruning before they start to take a more upright shape...otherwise they can look more fat and shrubby as a young plant. by the time the plant's in a #7 container it'd have more size to it and more of an upright nature to it. nothing wrong with buying a 3 gallon, just won't give you much immediate screening. they like a little shade, but i've seen them do totally fine in full sun. i'd also take slight exception with the link saying they grow rapidly. i'd consider something like ligustrum or wax myrtle to be rapid growing. chindo isn't a super slow growing plant, but i'd call it a moderate grower.

$15 for a 3 gallon is a good price...i'd even call that "cheap" for retail, but $110 for a 7 gallon seems very high to me, i know some garden centers can have crazy retail prices. ^Broadwells is a decent option, they're the cheapest around without a doubt. you probably won't get them to answer the phone and tell you availability and answer questions...probably just need to drive out and see what they have. i would think you could get a 7 gallon for <$75 retail, and i say that because i have a pretty good idea what the wholesale prices are locally. campbell rd nursery/garden center off tryon usually has pretty good retail prices, but most any garden center can special order something like that for you if they don't have it in stock. and i'd guess they should be willing to negotiate on the price for a quantity discount. i wish i had some to sell you (buy an ad, i know)...but we don't have any available right now.

not trying to discourage you at all from the Chindo option because it's totally fine, but something like a Recurvifolium Ligustrum is gonna grow faster and give you about the same size at maturity. you could probably find a 3 gallon that's close to 36" in that.

4/4/2018 7:40:50 AM

^ thats actually the second plant that was recommended by my neighbor (who is a nature-y type and can keep plants alive).

Her recommendation was based on the fact the Ligustrum (https://www.pendernursery.com/plant/Ligustrum-japonicum-Recurvifolium) can be "weedy". She says she has to pluck saplings from around her mature plants quite often, and thats not something I will do (Im just gonna mow over then...)

Right now they are in pretty decent shade, but I am working on taking out some trees. Waiting on a grapple bucket for my digger to get going on that front.

4/4/2018 7:49:09 AM

Recurve will produce small flowers and seeds that probably could drop and germinate as seedlings. Honestly I’ve never seen it as a major issue, they aren’t invasive or anything. Privet that grows in the woods and stuff is basically a weed and can spread by seed pretty easily. And privet like that would be in the same ligustrum family. But as far as the Recurvifolium cultivar, I don’t see that as a big issue. But they definitely do better in sun, they’re vigorous/fast growing, would probably require regular pruning to maintain a hedge shape (or you don’t have to prune them, but they’d have a more loose or unkempt look to them). But they’re a very tough plant and don’t need much attention to keep alive, and will work well as a screening plant. Chindo isn’t gonna require much pruning at all, so that’s probably a bonus. A lotta plants commonly used a screening hedge are used because they grow vigorously and the downside to that is, if you wanna maintain a hedge look then they’re gonna require regular pruning. And I don’t think that’s the case with chindo. I was mostly pushing back slightly on the “rapidly growing” comment from the extension website. Chindo viburnum is a perfectly fine plant that will make a perfectly good screen. And it has somewhat unique foliage that makes it more noteworthy than something like Recurv Ligustrum.

Also, I’m happy to answer any questions I can about plants and prices and stuff like that.

[Edited on April 4, 2018 at 8:29 AM. Reason : A]

[Edited on April 4, 2018 at 8:32 AM. Reason : A]

4/4/2018 8:26:09 AM

^ Thanks!

off to locate a root grapple, then back with more questions.

4/4/2018 12:02:30 PM

is wax myrtle the best option for shade or is there a less expensive option? i've got a bunch of leeland cyprus trees and they are huge along the side with a lot of sun but they are still small and scraggly on one side I think because they are shaded.

4/9/2018 9:51:34 AM