3

5/2/2008 12:53:07 AM

Quote :

"Give me a ride in yours. I always wondered how much power rotary racer's had"

I test drove it once a loooong time ago (I was thinking about buying it). I would guess maybe mid 13s (but that's from what i remember about a 10 minute test drive like 5 years ago).

5/2/2008 2:30:21 AM

nice to see you made it to this stage

5/2/2008 9:30:34 AM

yeah man the car is awesome

5/2/2008 9:48:41 AM

^^^ you testdrove my exact vehicle? I bought it from a friend a year and a half ago, and he bought it in late 2004 from some ricer who gutted part of the interior (which I have been restoring) and did all these heinous blue accents which have since been removed. I think my friend bought it for about $900, it had a low compression original engine that he ended up getting rebuilt before I bought it.

Hey remember how I said the ignition breakup was gone? Well it wasn't. Frustrating. It's just intermittent... sometimes I drop the hammer and it holds 20psi steady, pulls really hard. Other times I can hear and feel it missing. So I bought some new plugs, but you need a special socket to install them because they were not designed for this engine (it needs to be EXTREMELY thin (like the edge is sharp) to clear a lip on the rotor housing). I had grinded one down with a grinding wheel, and it worked once, but then the damn thing cracked when I was trying to remove the old ones. So I grinded down another, and it cracked again. So I said fuck it... I have an $80 specially made socket on its way that my friend is hooking me up with. Car hasn't run in a week.

I also ironed out a small tuning problem I think. I was always wondering why the car would idle like shit after I drove it somewhere, cut it off, went inside for 20 minutes, and came back. It would never flood or anything, it just ran lean and barely idled. So first I adjusted the water temp fuel correction. Helped a little, but that made cold starts more inconsistent.

Then I figured out that the intake air temperature sensor heatsoaks after you turn off the car. So if I am driving around my IAT will read between 42-48 C, even after some high boost runs, so a little over 100 F. When I cut it off the heat from the rad makes the temp go up to 65 C or so on average. So I looked at my IAT fuel correction and richened that up a little bit. Didn't help much. Then I looked at IAT versus timing. It was pulling 5 degrees of timing at that temp, presumably as a safety measure. Well I changed the lowest breakpoint to 68 C, so it will pull a max timing of 5 degrees by 90 C. Unfortunately that can't be as safe as it was before... this is an unfortunate limitation of running 100% open loop idle control due to limitations of the Apex'i engine management system.

Anyway, I'm hoping to get some dyno time within the next few weeks if I can 100% get this ignition problem fixed. I am considering increasing the dwell to see if it does anything, although nobody I know of has ever tried this before to my knowledge.

5/2/2008 10:58:41 AM

not to sound like a dick, but this car seems like a constant head ache.

5/2/2008 11:11:11 AM

fast generally is
quick, not so much

5/2/2008 11:31:29 AM

^^^ i test drove the Turbo II that [user]rotaryracer[/user] owned. is that the same car?

5/2/2008 12:01:44 PM

^ I doubt it's the same car. A healthy BPU Turbo II will do mid 13's though, that's about right.

And yes it's a headache. That's what happens when you have a car that's:

1) 20 years old

2) heavily modified to make over twice its factory output, including replacement of the engine management system and most of the fuel system.

But if you want to buy me a C6 Z06 so I can make more power (and probably better handling) with a warranty, go ahead.

[Edited on May 2, 2008 at 2:00 PM. Reason : .]

5/2/2008 1:55:31 PM

got it running again after that sparkplug got stuck. I also had the transmission rebuilt after it was leaking plus grinding 5th... which leaves the differential as the only part on the car that hasn't been rebuilt it seems. The motor is running strong again. I got on it in 1st and it pretty much loses traction instantly once boost hits. 2nd gear had no ignition misfire and held traction solidly. At about 19psi I am running 16 degrees of timing advance (not particularly aggressive but not conservative either) with 12 degrees of split between leading and trailing plugs (which is in fact conservative), AFR's are almost perfectly flat at 11.0:1 . Intake temps are solid between 42-46 C. I am going to try and lean it out to about 11.3-11.5 . Hopefully I will have some dyno numbers when I can find the time and the car isn't deciding to be tempermental at that particular moment.

Oh and one more thing... are there any surefire ways to precisely locate an exhaust leak? Sometimes I think I hear one under the hood. It sounds louder than it should, but I don't really see any smoke coming out. Maybe I'm just imagining it? The problem is that there are 3 possible leak points: turbo manifold to engine, turbo to manifold, and downpipe to turbo. The downpipe has a V-band which I think is ok, although I've heard they can warp sometimes. My turbo to manifold gasket is new, but it's tricky to get those nuts tight due to clearance issues. Actually, zxappeal tightened them a long time ago while we were working on the car in December I think. And then there's the manifold to engine connection. I am reusing my old gasket because it seemed to be ok and because new ones are only available from Mazda and cost $100 .

[Edited on May 19, 2008 at 8:36 PM. Reason : .]

5/19/2008 8:34:09 PM

look for carbon buildup at any of the joints.

5/19/2008 10:20:12 PM

Fucking ignition breakup. This is getting ridiculous... I get 20 miles out of a set of plugs before they start getting blowout, so just when I think I have it taken care of it comes back. I am going to upgrade to HKS Twin Power, which will amplify both leading and trailing coils. I am also switching to a different type of race plug.

6/2/2008 2:30:22 PM

I hope you got a lot of money, because this car sounds like a money pit.

6/13/2008 2:42:34 PM

Stuff like that always cracks me up...

people have their passions... he has his car girls have their cloths you have.... something i'm sure you waste money on.

6/13/2008 3:03:23 PM

Oh it's a money pit alright. But it's all relative--400+rwhp (hopefully) for let's say $14k now in the entire project including the vehicle itself. Which will get you a brand new shiny Toyota Corolla these days. Or you can buy a newer car (350Z, C5, Evo, whatever), not go through as much of the shit that I'm going through, but have to make payments on a $20-30k car for 4-6 years. Plus you have to deal with OBD II inspections. It's a tradeoff.

But I fixed the ignition breakup for good now I think. The HKS twin power is working really well. I actually met a guy with a GT42R Supra last night and he runs it on a car making over 600whp on pump gas. And btw, he's blown two engines. When you get any car to a certain power level (whatever that may be) shit starts breaking (or the risk of breaking stuff increases greatly), even on venerable engines such as the 2JZ/LSx/etc.

[Edited on June 14, 2008 at 7:16 PM. Reason : and that's $20k before you even start modding one of those newer cars...]]

6/14/2008 7:14:07 PM

is that a greddy type-s bov? how does your car run with it open? my vr4 runs rich as hell, i needed to switch to blow-through setup via 3.5" gm maf with a maf-translator to correct the fuel, otherwise my shit would stall as i would slow down for a red light

6/15/2008 1:02:23 AM

^^yeah, but you're also starting with a lot more with those cars. older higher mileage c5's for example can be had for $12-14k now. do full bolt ons, or just a cam and exhaust, and you're easily around 400rwhp if not more depending on the exact combo. i'd wager a MUCH more usable curve also. if you could lower yourself as far as an f-body, purchase price drops even more for the same power results. i see your point though, and i know your attraction to your project, just saying.

6/15/2008 1:37:26 AM

^^ Some people complain that the Type S leaks. I've never had any problems. Or at least, I can pressure test it to around 14psi and it seems ok, although I am running around 18-19. You just have to have a good vacuum source (I actually drilled and tapped a blockoff plate on the manifold) and have it adjusted just right so that it doesn't compressor surge or leak under high boost.

As far as running rich, on the stock ECU it very much did so. The stock ecu has a flapper-type airflow sensor. It would backfire and shoot flames ALL the time. It was cool at first but then got annoying, especially when it occurred unpredictably and when I was barely getting on it. Now that I am speed density the car almost never backfires.

And forget about running blow-through. Too much bullshit. My friend with a 95 did it with an Arc-II computer and it always leaked boost, although he used the MAF which comes with the Arc-II and that's Ford I think. It shouldn't stall though, that's weird. My friend's car would backfire on shifts but it wouldn't normally stall.

If it were me, I would experiment with AFC Neo's deceleration feature: http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/42.pdf page 23 . When you do something like going blowthrough (depending on setup) you end up spending a ton of time just trying to get the car tuned well enough to drive ok without hesitating or throwing fuel out the tailpipe.

6/15/2008 9:08:43 AM

I ended up getting it dyno'd at Phantasm (they gave me the dyno files and I generated that on my computer). They let me come in before the place opened so I didn't have to deal with 10,000 cars and 10,000 idiots on a Friday. I played around with the timing some and I got about 6 or 7 hp by shifting the curve some. I expected peak torque to be around 6000, but it was closer to 5, so I began ramping up my leading timing advance curve a little bit. I didn't have a ton of time to really figure out that slight dip in power in the middle, which is right where boost really hits and the secondary injectors start coming online. I think it might have to do with my staged injection settings.

The dyno got torque spikes but the best read we got was 297, which is about right. I fiddled with the trailing ignition and it didn't do anything really, so I left it conservative. We had problems losing the tach signal up top and torque spikes, so that's why the torque and rpm are left off. I can pull up a log from my engine management system if anyone actually cares what my exact boost and AFR curve were.

The numbers were about what I expected. It was about 94 degrees and 30% humidity according to the dynojet. There was maybe a 3hp difference between SAE corrected and uncorrected. So 386 @ 18psi is right on the money really, and you can figure maybe a 10hp fluctuation. I really need to get an electronic boost controller. The Home Depot bs ball and spring valve is too sensitive to weather... it'll be 18ish during the day and then closer to 20 at night, and no matter how I adjust it, it still fluctuates at least 1 psi based on weather. I just need to get some more money I guess. I have my MBC plumbed with stainless line and I want to do the same with an EBC so I don't have to worry about a line melting or blowing off, but custom AN plumbing gets expensive.

[Edited on June 27, 2008 at 12:20 PM. Reason : .]

6/27/2008 12:16:35 PM

I fixed another irritating driveability problem the other day. The car would stall easily when moving around in a parking lot or driveway at low speeds, or the rpms would drop very low sometimes when you let off the throttle after a WOT pull. I adjusted a damper on the throttle body which slows the movement of the butterflys and it fixed the problem. That's another reason why drive-by-wire is so superior to this stone age 80s shit. You don't need 50 million mechanical values, lines, springs, dampers, to accomplish different functions. The ECU can adjust the opening of the throttle plates for smooth driveability under all conditions.

On another subject, I am looking seriously into electronic boost controllers now. I am getting sick of the .5 - 1.5 psi fluctuation I get due to ambient conditions from the ball-and-spring Home Depot MBC. MBC's kinda suck on external wastegates. You can't hook them up to the upper chamber (which would allow you to keep the spring depressed longer and hypothetically improve spool), only the lower one.

My engine management system has a boost control capability but apparently it kinda sucks. It's just another annoying limitation of this thing. So I am thinking about the Greddy Profec type S, which is very similar to the older Profec B with the rotary dials. I would prefer something with datalogging capabilities etc but there's nothing within the price range.

[Edited on July 6, 2008 at 2:17 PM. Reason : .]

7/6/2008 2:15:05 PM

if you have outputs where you can manipulate %voltage signal based on rpm vs manifold pressure (nitrous tables, etc), I'd one of use them to control your EBC. GM solenoids seem to be the way to go.

I haven't tried it on mine yet because there are other priorities (and 2 psi +/- doesn't bother me TOO much), but it sounds simple enough

7/6/2008 3:12:46 PM

unfortunately, there are no switched +12v outputs (nitrous control) or pulsewidth modulated outputs (boost control etc). The Apex'i Power FC came out around 1999, when the only thing that really had that capability were Motec and Haltech systems.

7/6/2008 7:31:51 PM

so much for finding cheap projects... new projects for the fall include strengthening the engine block and spec-ing out all the internals, electronic boost controller install, new clutch ("downgrading" from an irritating 6 puck to street disc), and electric fan conversion

7/17/2008 11:31:03 AM

good grief man, you've got the patience of a saint. i would have gone apeshit on that car a long time ago.

7/17/2008 2:10:36 PM

Quote :

"strengthening the engine block "

How is this acomplished? I have seen main girdles and such for domestics but never anything for rotories.

7/17/2008 3:37:15 PM

^ It depends how much stronger you want to go. For very high horsepower applications, you can add extra dowel pins (which sandwich the motor together). In my case, I will be replacing the rear plate on the motor with one from a later model engine. The 87-88 rear plates have inferior casting compared to many of 89-91 plates and all of the 93+ plates. Under severe engine flex (major drag racing sometimes) or detonation the block will crack. That's generally a problem over 400whp or at any power level if you detonate badly enough. I will also be installing an oil pan brace, which will help stiffen the "sandwich" of the motor.

and the other shit like the clutch I wanted to do anyway.

^^ I dunno, you drive it for a while, then you want to wrench on it. Then you wrench on it for a while until you just want to drive it. It's not the kind of car you want to own if doing the work is a chore--working on it and learning about it have to be part of the enjoyment of the vehicle, not necessarily an obstacle to enjoying it

[Edited on July 17, 2008 at 4:29 PM. Reason : .]

7/17/2008 4:26:27 PM

got the motor apart yesterday. One of the rotor housings is looking a little tired, which affects compression and therefore power, plus on the center iron housing I can see some damage near the coolant passageways from when I overheated the thing almost two years ago due to a bad clutch fan. So basically in addition to the upgraded rear iron housing I wanted to get originally, I need two more good conditioned used housings. I haven't gotten the dial caliper out yet, but the apex seals and the other associated rotor seals seem to be in spec despite having seriously detonated the motor multiple times. I still have to order upgraded motor mounts (the OEM ones were intact but kinda loose when I pulled them off, which explains why I had some vibration) and the oil pan brace.

My solid 6 puck clutch was pretty worn out, which explains why it's been pretty noisy lately. I will be replacing the disk with a sprung 6 puck unit. I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do for a wastegate, but there's a good chance I will ditch the HKS 40mm and go with a Tial 46mm using a custom adapter flange.

I can get some pics of the disassembled engine if anyone cares to see.

[Edited on August 15, 2008 at 1:48 AM. Reason : .]

8/15/2008 1:45:23 AM

where are the pics son?

8/15/2008 9:23:27 AM

the groove for the outer water seal is almost compromised here, no telling how long it would have lasted...



the edge of the chrome surface is flaking resulting in poor sealing in that area. The rotor housing is still technically useable, but the motor will have lower compression and won't make as much power, and just generally won't run as strong. It's honestly surprising it made 386 with that wear.





one of my apex seals on the rear rotor. It seems ok but I haven't spec'd it out yet.



the rotating assembly of the engine

overall though the motor wasn't too bad considering many of the components had 100k+ on them, plus the engine had been overheated, redlined probably 1000 times (including VIR time and lots of tuning), severely detonated, and idled on half a quart of oil. When I put it back together hopefully it will be able to handle another round of very hard driving, plus I will have a new clutch in there, a new wastegate, and dual 0-5v EGT sensors so I can tune timing better.

[Edited on August 15, 2008 at 3:58 PM. Reason : .]

8/15/2008 3:52:28 PM

so the motor blew?

have you had any enjoyment out of the car yet?

8/15/2008 3:59:18 PM

I need to look for some rotors to hang on my wall with my busted transmission guts.

8/15/2008 3:59:19 PM

It didn't blow, all seals were intact and so were all the housings--I am just changing the housings because it is the smart thing to do for engine longevity, whatever that means. I had detonated the motor again a few weeks ago due to a vac line to the MAP sensor blowing off, so I decided to rip it apart and build up some more stuff. It's just a "while I'm in there..." kind of thing.

I've had plenty of enjoyment out of the car, 2/3's of the enjoyment comes from working on it and learning about it and the other 1/3 comes from just driving it. I get bored with a car after just driving it for a while with nothing to improve/fix. While many/most people just sell a car when they get tired of it or let it sit there most of the time and work on something else, I just keep finding new projects on the same car.

[Edited on August 15, 2008 at 4:43 PM. Reason : .]

8/15/2008 4:42:21 PM

fix your shit son.

how easy is it to find replacement parts? your car is old as dirt, so i'm assuming it's not easy.

8/16/2008 12:11:47 PM

I've already got the new parts in the works, low mileage housings from JDM motors. I should have them in a couple weeks. I will have to try my hand at porting the exhaust on the new rotor housing, so we'll see how that goes. I am trading my old turbo manifold and wastegate for two of the housings I need, the other housing I am getting from an importer.

I've also got new goodies on the way:



stainless steel long runner divided turbo manifold, plus I am getting a 1.0 A/R divided T4 turbine housing



Tial 44mm wastegate

This new setup should give noticeably improved spool and much more stable boost control. Whereas before I would have 18psi by something like 5000rpm, I should probably be able to get it by 4500 or so, maybe less. That is because when you separate the exhaust pulses until they reach the turbine blade they hit at a higher velocity and spin up the turbine faster. This is used on OEM applications as well. Plus the longer runners are more optimized for overlap between intake and exhaust stroke, in the same way that you gain more power from long tube headers if you have upgraded cam(s).

8/16/2008 4:49:11 PM

Still waiting on parts. I got dicked out of some rotor housings and that had me running in circles for over a month. I've got almost all the little nicknacks purchased, except I am waiting for my friend to finish porting my side housings (the 3 housings with the intake ports).

In the meantime, I am starting a porting project on the rotor housings and putting together a new laptop for tuning, as my other laptop was literally from 1998 (sister's laptop from highschool). Another friend of mine had a virus-laden laptop from about 4 years ago that I bought for 100 bucks from him. I reformatted the hard drive and I am now installing all the pirated versions of windows XP software on it. It will be a basic, stripped down machine for web browsing and tuning software only. I have PDF copies of factor service manuals and installation instructions for parts loaded on here. I am also installing all my copies of available tuning software (AEM software, Hondata, etc), which unfortunately excludes things like HP tuners that you have to pay for.

[Edited on October 3, 2008 at 9:10 PM. Reason : .]

10/3/2008 9:09:26 PM

damn man, looks like a pain in the shit hole. keep with it though

10/3/2008 9:17:06 PM

Now that I have a stronger engine block (I can post pics of the casting on the new housings if anybody cares), the motor should be able to handle more power safely. I am trading my old turbo (left) and my old downpipe+test pipe for this new turbo here on the right. I needed a new downpipe anyway because I have a new turbo manifold so this was practically a free turbo upgrade in terms of out-of-pocket expense.

The old turbo, on the left, is a Garrett T04S. The compressor wheel is a 60-1, with a 59.5mm inducer and 76mm exducer, 60 trim. The turbine wheel is P-trim (64mm exducer 74mm major). The compressor housing A/R is .70 and I had an undivided, tangential .96 A/R turbine housing.

The new turbo on the right is a Garrett T04R. The compressor wheel has a 67mm inducer with an 84mm exducer, 64 trim. For a comparison, the GT35 compressor wheel is a 61mm inducer with an 82 mm exducer, 55 trim. The turbine wheel is also a P-trim like the T04S I had. The compressor housing is .70 A/R just like the other turbo, but this one came with a divided tangential 1.31 A/R turbine housing. That's just too big for my motor--I would need a bridgeport or a 3 rotor for that. I am swapping a tangential 1.00 A/R divided housing in.

I guess we'll see what this can do.

[Edited on November 11, 2008 at 5:56 PM. Reason : neither are ball bearing, couldn't afford it]

11/11/2008 5:56:26 PM

The motor prep work is essentially done. I have finished the porting I needed to do. The plan is to start putting it together over Thanksgiving when two friends with motor building experience will help me with it.

11/18/2008 3:44:43 PM

i know a lot of this rebuild is for the purpose of increased durability/reliability of the shortblock, but now that you're upgrading the turbo and some of the supporting parts, what are your power expectations? or, are you just looking for gains under the curve along with overall improvements of delivery while the peak numbers stay roughly the same?

sticking with the power fc and your own tuning?

figured anything out for an ebc yet, or do you feel like the new wastegate will address your concerns with the mbc?

any plans for a two step and/or anti lag?

11/18/2008 8:05:03 PM

I'll probably run 13psi spring pressure from 500-1000 miles once all the kinks are worked out and switch to 110 octane with around 20psi after 1000 miles. I expect power in the mid to high 400's at that boost level--this turbo is essentially a GT40 but less efficient at over 25psi (same inducer measurement as GT40 but smaller exducer and higher trim). On pump gas I will keep it at the 13psi spring, which should do maybe high 300's. For my purposes I will never run out of turbo with this setup. I've seen dynos of about 550rwhp @ 25psi using a very similar setup to what I have now but with a bit more injector. In terms of spool, I'm just hoping it doesn't get worse. My new setup will have a better boost controller, better wastegate, better manifold, and a more efficient turbine housing of about the same size, with the same turbine wheel I had before. The only thing that will hurt spool is the size of the compressor wheel.

Ignition tuning will now be even more critical, and that is why I am running a separate EGT probe in each rotor's turbo manifold runner. I am purchasing a box by FJO Racing to convert that signal into a loggable 0-5v analog signal. It's really frustrating when you advance and retard the timing and you have inconclusive dyno results and noisy knock sensor readings, while plug reading can be useful but inconvenient. I will now also be able to monitor the split in temperature between the front and rear rotor (rear is most prone to blowing) and indirectly make some fuel adjustments to account for that by adjusting individual injector latency settings to fool the computer into adding injector pulsewidth.

For actual boost control I will probably go with the Greddy Profec Type S--not because I really want to, but because I have no other option really. I don't have the money for a better one and the Power FC will not support boost control if you have an 87-88 car (well, it wouldn't be worth the bullshit to make it work). The improved wastegate will allow me to crack it later to reach target pressure and also give me more consistency in cold weather, something I never got with the puny HKS 40mm gate and the HKS log manifold which only bled exhaust off one rotor. It is very frustrating when your target pressure is 18psi and you hit 15psi by x rpm and then slowly creep to 18psi 1500rpm later, while any adjustments to the boost controller do not fix the creep.

If I had more time and money I would switch to a Haltech E8 and replace the optical crank angle sensor with a magnetic Hall Effect crank angle sensor, either the factory FD one or make a custom one using Haltech parts. Then I would build my own harness and use the Haltech for boost control and probably install a Haltech idle air control valve. But I don't have the loot, and I'm already deep into the Power FC, which has many limitations (closed loop control sucks, boost control sucks, two-step feature was discontinued years ago) but still gets the job done in terms of controlling fuel and ignition.

Another huge issue is that over the 13psi spring pressure traction is simply going to be horrible, and money has about run out to improve that. It will be no less than $1500 for decent larger used wheels (these are the 17x7's I had on my nonturbo car) and decent street tires so I can keep the ass planted at least in most of second gear. I'm not planning to drag race the car much. I still have the stock differential mount (known weakpoint on 2nd gens) and I don't feel like dropping the subframe to replace it any time soon.

[Edited on November 19, 2008 at 1:26 AM. Reason : .]

11/19/2008 1:18:10 AM

so if you don't drag race it and only run race gas in it, what exactly do you use it for? I imagine any kind of road racing with it is pretty difficult since it's down so much you can't ever really get used to it and get better since it's got some different dynamic when it's back.

11/19/2008 7:28:24 PM

what do I use it for? lately 75% of it has been designing, building, and tuning different engine setups. I have learned a shitload about custom turbo setups, putting motors together, engine tuning strategies, and emissions control systems.

Otherwise, cruising around mostly. It's nice to have 400+rwhp at your feet on the rare occasion you feel like using it, and the race fuel is a nice insurance policy and it's not all that inconvenient when you drive the car 50 miles a week max and you stock up on the stuff.

But there may come a time when I get deeper into some kind of competitive driving. I took the car to VIR a couple years ago and I'd like to go back. There's only so much wrenching you can do to the thing. Once I get the bugs worked out of this setup (and that will probably take a few months) there won't be much else for me to do with it that won't compromise driveability.

11/20/2008 11:44:42 AM

lol arghx thinks anybody cares

11/22/2008 6:17:20 PM

It's been close to two months and the motor has just sat there while I was waiting for my friend from out-of-town to come help me with it. It looks like he won't be able to make it any time soon due to his job screwing up his schedule yet again. So it's time to just put it together without him. I'll try to get started this weekend.

1/7/2009 9:28:03 PM

Dude, this is all FUN to read and spark my own dreaming/scheming.

For you nay-sayers, this is a great exercise in hands-on learning about what really makes it all go...and Ray has learned one severe assload of stuff since I first met him. He's my kind of geek! Way to go, son. I totally dig.

A passion like this is a good thing to channel your energies into; you learn constantly, and it's something fun and worthwhile to focus on. It's a very positive experience.

1/7/2009 11:42:56 PM

we'll see how positive it is when I put the motor in and then tear it right back down because I screwed something up... but if I don't start on it now it will never get built. I refuse to be that guy with a project car just collecting dust. I've come too far.

1/7/2009 11:49:56 PM

got any old turbos you dont need / want to sell? i need something that can push a 1.6L to ~250-300whp.

[Edited on January 8, 2009 at 8:16 AM. Reason : smallest that can do it would be preferred. ]

1/8/2009 8:16:16 AM

You shoulda asked me a couple months ago, I had a friend with an Evo III TD05-16G who was looking to sell, but that's gone now. I had a T04S for sale before but that is way too big for a streetable D16.

1/8/2009 3:11:52 PM

^^^^agree 100%. i remember back in the day we all used to rag on arghx, now his posts are usually on point and interesting to read.

^^ask some of the cummins guys here or go hang around the diesel forums and you can probably pick up a holset real cheap. isn't the hx35 a pretty popular unit for the diy guys? a 14b or t25 should be real cheap from the dsm crowd too.

i've got the housing from the stock garret on my powerstroke you could have, but you'd need a shaft/wheel. stock on is f'd. probably not worth the effort.

[Edited on January 8, 2009 at 11:54 PM. Reason : in fact, i just saw Hurley post about dumping his hx due to shaft play. rebuild/profit]

1/8/2009 11:53:14 PM

I've got a hy35 off an 02 I think 3500...either needs to be rebuilt or just balanced, should be good for that power..75$ obo, tired of it sitting in my dorm room so make an offer

1/9/2009 10:13:55 AM