cool...Por-15 seems like the way to go from my research too.

concerning the fuel filter, it definitely does have an inline fuel filter. i'm thinking i can just by an off the shelf standard inline fuel filter at autozone and it will be fine. now i have to find an oil filter. from what i've read i can use an automotive one instead of getting a honda motorcycle specific one from the dealer.

3/15/2011 10:28:23 AM

The fuel filter may have been installed by someone else at some point. An off-the-shelf one will do just fine, but make sure what you get will flow enough gas. It's just one more thing that can screw with your head during the tuning process if you don't.

3/15/2011 10:41:32 AM

actually the repair manual shows the inline fuel filter in the exploded parts drawing and is also mentioned in steps such as how to remove the gas tank. step 1. disconnect fuel line from fuel filter.

3/15/2011 11:30:42 AM

Well hot damn.

3/15/2011 11:34:36 AM

Yeah it's got idiot lights but everything is tank-mounted, its just an annoying tick i've developed without even glancing down...a buzzer would drive me insane though f that noise

Turn left...click.....click click clickclick.......clickclick...
stop light, go straight....click clickclick click....
..........click click........
lane change.....clickclickclick....

It doesn't make any click noise but you get the idea

3/15/2011 12:12:21 PM

Sorry fr double post but have any of you guys had any luck with madco's cock-lock or cam-lock? Lookin for a cheap cruise control to relieve ol' righty on those long hauls

3/15/2011 12:14:16 PM

Yeah, few did have them from the factory, and yours is obviously one of them. Many designs from that era, and even now, incorporate a screen in the petcock's pickup, so they don't need one down the line. Some people added them anyway, and it leads to a lot of unnecessary headache when diagnosing fuel delivery issues.

POR-15 is a good sealer, but you must be absolutely certain that you've gotten all the rust out or it will eventually do it again. Anything reasonably acidic will help remove it, like vinegar, pool acid (HCl), naval jelly, among others. You can also build yourself a big electrolysis tank and do it that way, I've heard many positive things about that method.

[Edited on March 15, 2011 at 12:15 PM. Reason : ^I have a Vista-Cruise, and it's fantastic.]

3/15/2011 12:15:06 PM

what if i just rinse the tank out and run with it with out deep cleaning all the rust out and sealing it. seems like the fuel filter will catch any debris. Will the tank continue to rust if the bike is in use (i.e. cycling filling and emptying the gas tank from driving the bike)?

3/15/2011 12:46:40 PM

If you don't actually get the rust out, then there doesn't seem to be any point in doing it.

3/15/2011 2:46:35 PM

right....but will that create issues in the future if the fuel filter catches any debris form the tank? i think not but i'll probably be replacing fuel filters often.

3/16/2011 8:51:34 AM

Fix the problem now, otherwise you're going to have carb and fuel system problems later, no matter how often you're swapping fuel filters.

3/16/2011 9:15:19 AM

yeah...might as well do it right the first time. i'm just anxious to get her fired up.

3/16/2011 9:54:56 AM

You don't have to coat it, but an etching rinse and agitation using a carton of bb's will get rid of a LOT of the rust. After doing that, I'd do a final rinse with a baking soda solution and then just plain water. Make it HOT water.

Jeepman just did his with good results.

If you keep your tank full, then coating isn't that necessary, but keep in mind that you need to ride it pretty frequently...today's gas with ethanol is somewhat hygroscopic and will contribute to rust over time.

If you don't do this, you will be replacing your fuel filter VERY frequently...and there will be sedimentation that makes it through and into your carb bowls.

On the subject of fuel filters, make sure to get one that's designed to be used on gravity feed fuel systems. A LOT of automotive fuel filters are designed to be used under pressure, and therefore have a more restrictive media (and subsequently catch finer particulates)...and will NOT flow enough fuel to get the job done.

3/16/2011 10:24:10 AM

awesome...thanks for the tips! i think i'm going to do it right and put the coating on there. POR-15 sells a cycle gas tank restoration kit so I'll probably go that route. and thanks for the tip on the fuel filter.

3/16/2011 12:47:51 PM

This Can Am Spyder commercial shows dude giving "the wave"

NO WAY MAN

3/17/2011 12:38:45 PM

Those things are the worst of all possible worlds.

3/17/2011 7:19:25 PM

^ditto. We sell them at the place I work at GD I cannot stand them things.

3/17/2011 8:46:39 PM

a guy at work has one. he's kind of a vagina and rides the thing like a total squid. i really don't see the appeal outside of riding 2 up for a long distance

3/17/2011 10:33:50 PM

if i lost a leg or something i'd check one of those out, otherwise i don't get it. and in that case i'd just want a trike that still looks somewhat like a bike

3/18/2011 8:00:12 PM

IF I was gonna get a trike, it'd be a Can Am Spyder. MUCH more stable than those goddamn Goldwing or Harley conversions.

But personally, the only thing I think the trike concept is good for is one-off kitcar or garage project for somebody who wants to do an electric or a hypermileage vehicle and wants to get it licensed as a motorcycle for emissions/safety reasons.

3/18/2011 8:25:48 PM

Spent the afternoon doing a long and annoying, but totally rewarding project: I drilled the top triple on my SV650S and added handlebars! Getting the top setup and drilled was a new experience for me, I've never done anything with this necessary amount of precision before, but after a bit of cutting and grinding the back, I got everything to fit nicely.

The truly annoying part was installing and adjusting the new longer cables and getting everything routed so that it wouldn't bind too much. I ordered Motion Pro throttle cables made to 2.5" over stock after reading a how-to on SVRider, and I'm kinda wishing I had gone for 3" over with these bars. When the bars are straight to full lock left, the throttle works fine. As you turn them right they work fine through the first 30 degrees or so, then the throttle starts to stick just a little bit and the cables get pulled across the ignition lock. I don't think it's enough to be a real problem, but I can't think of a way to route them that won't bind them worse than they are already. The clutch cable was replaced with a longer one that's the regular SVN cable length. That one wasn't too bad, but it's damn stiff, so it's hard to route.

All buttoned up, I drilled the locating holes in the bars, put the controls and barends on, and did a couple laps up and down the driveway. The difference in ergonomics is like night and day - it feels like a whole new machine, and in a great way. I can definitely see this helping my back and wrist issues on all day rides. Took about 5 hours with breaks every now and again, and totally worth the time and money, I think. It was definitely one of those things where you begin to question whether it's really worth the trouble once you get deep into it, but once you're done it's very gratifying.

3/19/2011 9:49:29 PM

this



to this








[Edited on March 20, 2011 at 10:16 PM. Reason : I suck at posting pictures ughhhhh]

3/20/2011 10:13:45 PM

all it needs now is some rocket pods and a 50-cal under the nose

3/20/2011 11:27:16 PM

A .50? Let's be realistic-- dual .30's mounted to the sides.

3/21/2011 8:30:57 AM

Jeepman, tell me about the paint you used for the engine and headers. Did you paint it all in the frame?

[Edited on March 21, 2011 at 2:41 PM. Reason : Rectangular headlights are so boss]

3/21/2011 2:38:31 PM

I used krylon barbeque paint from advance auto

and yes, I painted it in the frame, just masked off what I didn't want paint on. the forks/triple trees, etc were all off so it wasn't too bad.

3/21/2011 6:51:39 PM

Bitchin

Can you tell me how long it took? How many applications, set time, etc?

I'm probably giving mine the BBQ treatment this summer.

[Edited on March 21, 2011 at 7:03 PM. Reason : Did you paint the wheels too?]

3/21/2011 6:58:36 PM

I sprayed it off with paint prep stuff and hit it with probably 3 coats or so. Haven't run it for an extended amount of time so we'll see how it holds up. It's supposed to hold up to 1500 degrees or something so I think it'll be ok

3/21/2011 7:05:10 PM

I've heard that nothing common, BBQ paint included, will hold up to the sort of temps your headers will reach, at least not for very long. I don't know if there's any truth to it, as I can't imagine them ever getting hotter than grill, but who knows. Post back and let us know how it goes. I'm rather curious. Polishing the headers (on my cb175 project) to try to get them to at least approach the luster of the fresh chrome silencers is a monstrous pain in the ass.

3/22/2011 12:06:24 AM

That looks fantastic. I'd love to see that in person.

3/22/2011 10:03:11 AM

I painted my air-cooled with Krylon BBQ black last year. The paint has held up fine everywhere except where I dumped gas on it cleaning the carb bowls, and even there it's alright. My bigger concern is temperatures. POR-15 engine paint is designed to let heat escape...this BBQ paint, who knows. I didn't take regular temp readings before I painted it, but I seem to be running a bit hotter than my peers. I even saw 340F at the head one time last summer, more typically 280F on mild days like today. My jetting is good, rich if anything. I'm currently considering sanding it off the fins and adding some wind vanes or maybe an oil cooler.

I used that super hot header paint on my headers, then baked 'em in the oven. It still chips off.

[Edited on March 22, 2011 at 10:21 AM. Reason : .]

3/22/2011 10:17:25 AM

got me a 2nd 04 r6 race bike. Geared and ready for track days this summer.

3/22/2011 5:34:55 PM

Yay... R6s are awesome bikes. And tracks are fun play grounds for those bikes

I am working on getting a CRF150. So if anyone wants to get rid of one cheap, I'll buy it cash in hand!

3/22/2011 8:53:57 PM

Speaking of painting headers, anyone used VHT Flameproof paint?

http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html

I've heard good things.

I think wrapping mine would be pretty nifty, but $8 < $50. Mine are in pretty decent shape, all things considered. Some blue/purple/gold tinting, but no dents and only a tiny bit of rust underneath that I could probably knock off with a brush.

[Edited on March 22, 2011 at 10:23 PM. Reason : I should probably paint my sidecovers that have been off since October before I go crazy though]

3/22/2011 10:17:20 PM

anyone got the cyclegear 15% off coupon? I need one for a helmet

3/23/2011 9:59:21 AM

^^Yeah that's what I used. Like I said it really needs to be baked on if you can fit your pipes in the oven, otherwise just run it right away and get them hot.

Definitely sand the chrome or the paint won't stick.

[Edited on March 23, 2011 at 12:46 PM. Reason : .]

3/23/2011 12:45:25 PM

Yeah, if I paint the headers it's going to be done while they're on the bike. I don't think they'll fit in my oven, not to mention it's gas. Only problem with curing them on the bike is that it's air-cooled. I guess I can invest in a big-ass fan.

[Edited on March 23, 2011 at 1:47 PM. Reason : lol there's no chrome on my bike]

3/23/2011 1:47:13 PM

I pulled mine off and sandblasted them.

3/24/2011 5:22:16 PM

damn that's pretty stealthy job on the Seca there, Matt!

3/25/2011 8:03:31 PM

from last weekend @CMP. I am guilty of not taking an HDR picture, please forgive me.

3/26/2011 8:46:11 PM

Holy shit that's sexy

3/27/2011 12:12:41 PM

$40,000 to put on track and NOT in competition.. I ran with this guy through a couple turns but any measurable straight and he was gone

3/28/2011 5:49:55 PM

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/2292660077.html

Quote :

"1980 Honda CB 750 in very good shape. 32.xxx miles this is nothing for honda. new battery, spark plugs and cab clean. one click and star ( eletric start) tires in good cond, clean title in hands bike is good to go. PLEASE JUST FOR SERIOS BUYERS Thanks "

Anything I should know about these older bikes?

3/29/2011 4:52:41 AM

Those bikes are the tits. Pending passing a good once-over and a test ride, I'd say that's a solid deal. Just check for undue amounts of rust on the frame and exhaust and check the condition of the rubber (hoses, carb boots, etc). Mainly looking for signs of neglect as those kinds of things are likely to need replacing on a 30+ year old bike if they haven't been.

There was a cb900 on CL a few weeks ago (may still be) that I'd staple my nuts to the back of an angry bull for

3/29/2011 7:49:37 AM

a buddy of mine just picked up an '82 CB900. those inline 4s are nifty.

3/29/2011 8:40:17 AM

Pretty decent deal. I'd try to get around 1200 assuming he has taken good care of everything. Ask the owner about maintenance and if they seem like they're on the up and up about stuff, give him an offer.

3/29/2011 10:10:55 AM

I could see that bike being worth the asking price if there are no issues beyond some general cosmetic wear and tear.

3/29/2011 11:27:24 AM

I bought a 1980 CB 750F about a year and half ago. Fewer miles, slightly better shape cosmetically. Guy was asking $1200, I paid $900. If it's mechanically sound, it'll run forever. I just passed 41k on mine and it still runs great. I'd try to talk him down a bit, but that doesn't look like a bad deal. I'm not a big fan of the styling on the Cs, but that 4-into-4 is pretty awesome.

[Edited on March 29, 2011 at 7:17 PM. Reason : Those metal airbox covers are pretty highly sought after, btw]

3/29/2011 7:12:44 PM

I appreciate it fellas

3/29/2011 7:13:32 PM

Didn't know if anyone would be interested in this:

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/2292880523.html



$1500

3/31/2011 12:02:56 AM