only question your skills if the whole rear end just falls out.

[Edited on January 29, 2008 at 8:57 AM. Reason : ]

1/29/2008 8:57:24 AM

Dan, was rebuilding the diff yourself a worthwhile endeavor? Would you pay a shop if you had to do it again? Did you get any quotes?

1/30/2008 12:57:01 AM

It was very easy and i saved a good $500 in rebuild labor.

Assuming it works, i've made out like a bandit.

There seems to be some sort of monopoly on BMW diff rebuilding which creates these ridiculously high rebuild rates. $750 to rebuild an E30 diff over $900 for an E36. Its crazy. So i read up, found some knowledgeable people to help, and voila. $250 in parts and i'm done.

Also note, that because i'm using the same housing and gearset, there wasnt any shimming to figure and do. It pretty much goes back together how it was and the only thing to feel out is the pinion bearing preload which isnt hard. I'm not sure i'd trust myself w/ a full shim job.

1/30/2008 8:49:56 AM

callahan, ill rebuild your dif for you.

1/30/2008 8:51:13 AM

got the diff back in yesterday.

silent! yesssssssssssssssssssssssssss. its like a whole new car. the whine was so bad before it gave me headaches and hurt my ears.


i'm gonna go ahead and preliminarily call this a success.

2/3/2008 10:58:37 AM

Quote :

"There seems to be some sort of monopoly on BMW diff rebuilding which creates these ridiculously high rebuild rates."

a diff is a diff. there's nothing inherently special about it being a bmw. anyone with the expertise and tools can do one successfully. that's just another example of the "tax" you often see associated with premium brands. parts are the same way.

Quote :

"Also note, that because i'm using the same housing and gearset, there wasnt any shimming to figure and do. It pretty much goes back together how it was"

true in most cases, but definitely not always. especially if it's never been apart since it was new. a lot of times you'll need to tweak a little to adjust for wear and general "settling" of the internals. i hope you at least checked the backlash, pinion depth, etc.? especially since it was whining. it could have been a bearing, or it could have been a result of the pattern being off.

[Edited on February 3, 2008 at 5:59 PM. Reason : did you replace the pinion/carrier bearings too or just rebuild the limited slip?]

2/3/2008 5:56:07 PM

right, thats my point. I'm breaking down the "mystique". its not rocket science.

i replaced all the bearings, inner/outter pinion and the output bearings, clutches, and seals.

The old pinion bearing was screwed up fo sho. it looked like a worm ate the rollers. very strange.

2/4/2008 9:39:33 AM

Ahmet and I at laguna seca

2/5/2008 3:03:56 AM

Do you have an s14. I would love to hear that engine in action.

2/5/2008 8:21:45 AM

Nah m20b25. S14s are hawt, but m20s sound pretty good when revved out.

2/5/2008 1:26:23 PM

Get any vid of Laguna Seca, callahan?


As of this weekend the interior is completely stripped, all tar and sound deadening out, and all cleaned up nice and perty. I also fabbed up a 3rd brake light holder/bracket since the rear shelf is now out.

I got some VACmotorsport floor adapters used and the side mounts will be here soon. I'll FINALLY get my god forsaken seat mounted properly after 1.5 years.

I also have a new throttle cable on the way since mine is kinda sticky.

I have about 50 miles on the diff now and its doing great.

She's turning into a mean machine.

2/11/2008 12:51:59 PM

Quick...
Someone give me an estimate about how difficult/time consuming it is to replace the bottom end gaskets in a 1991 318. Can the motor stay in the car? Have to remove any of the steering components?

3/20/2008 6:44:31 PM

N/m...Found the gasket I was looking for.

3/20/2008 7:47:55 PM

WTB:
Two Door Handle Surrounds (Interior Trim Piece)
Glove box
Door lock knobs
5-speed shift knob (OEM or tasteful aftermarket)
Warning Panel
Power Window Switch
Hood Shock
Two Door Key Blanks - Does anyone sell these? I only see ignition key blanks on eBay.

Let me know if you guys want to get rid of any of this stuff before I call Pelican Parts.

3/21/2008 11:02:51 PM

http://youtube.com/watch?v=UKRvala4-9k

3/22/2008 12:59:01 AM

i heard they've really stepped up traffic ticketing on the Dragon over the last few years

3/22/2008 3:02:24 AM

yeah, mostly on the tennessee side. they're specifically targeting enthusiasts. in fact, i believe there are now some pending lawsuits against tn as a result of their recent antics.

nc still leaves you alone unless you're getting really crazy.

3/22/2008 3:20:48 AM

yeah, but most of it is in TN

3/22/2008 3:22:30 AM

yeah, most of the good parts. still plenty of other area roads to ride that are equally as good and in nc. the skyway, etc...

3/22/2008 3:40:46 AM

Burkes Brothers on Hillsborough st is the place to go for e30 keys

3/22/2008 11:30:08 AM

I think i've got a clean check panel laying around if thats what you mean by warning panel. $20?

3/23/2008 2:00:33 PM

Had a great time with a spece30, spec944, a spec miata, and a bunch of p-cars and lotuses at Thunderhill!
http://gotbluemilk.com/web080321/4/index.html



[Edited on March 23, 2008 at 4:50 PM. Reason : pic]

3/23/2008 4:48:36 PM

Quote :

"I think i've got a clean check panel laying around if thats what you mean by warning panel. $20?"

I might be picking one up today from a guy on eBay that I bought some parts from a while back. If not, how about $10? They seem to be going $14-16 on eBay after shipping.

Does Burke Bros have the key blanks in stock normally?

3/24/2008 1:55:55 PM

Yeah, I went several places looking for e30 keys and they were the only place I found locally. It's just called "BMW3 X144"

3/24/2008 2:05:15 PM

Quote :

"WTB: Two Door Handle Surrounds (Interior Trim Piece) Glove box Door lock knobs 5-speed shift knob (OEM or tasteful aftermarket) Warning Panel (above rear view mirror) Power Window Switch Hood Shock Two Door Key Blanks - Does anyone sell these? I only see ignition key blanks on eBay. New requests... Four 16" tires. Something close to 205/50/16. Clock/computer thing that goes above the radio. "

3/24/2008 10:37:45 PM

Question for the veterans...Is there any trick to finding a power steering leak? I'm loosing power steering fluid, but it's an e30, so there is all types of crusty stuff when I look at the power steering pump, reservoir, etc. It's hard to tell where it's currently leaking.

3/30/2008 12:31:49 AM

clean off everything first so you can get a better idea where it is coming from, then start the car and see if you can see it running down anywhere.

3/30/2008 12:12:52 PM

I got someone to turn the wheel back and forth today while I looked for the leak from the top. Didn't see any leaking around the reservoir itself. It's definitely coming from the bottom near the power steering pump. I'll have to go under the car to try to pinpoint it.

What are the most likely places for the leak? Should I be looking at the lines or could there be a busted seal on the power steering pump? Are there rebuild kits if it is a seal, or do I have to get a new/used one?

[Edited on March 30, 2008 at 9:34 PM. Reason : l]

3/30/2008 9:33:03 PM

the factory hoses sort of dry out and shrink which make the factory hose clamps too loose. cut em off and replace them w/ new hose clamps as a first step. replacing the hoses would be nice too, but its sorta hard to find new hydraulic hose.

On our ETA the banjo bolts also leak. the whole system just leaks on all E30s, but normally its a slow seep and its nothing a topping off every six month or so won't fix. its just messy.

3/31/2008 9:34:21 AM

Unfortunately, mine isn't a slow leak. I went through almost half a quart of fluid just driving out to Briar Creek and back yesterday. When I looked under the car while someone else turned the wheel it was dripping so fast it was almost running. Should make it easier to find the problem since it's obviously a gaping hole.

3/31/2008 9:49:15 AM

Ah, shitty. Well its likely the hoses and/or clamps. I'd start there if you can't pinpoint it.

You can buy new copper crush washers for the banjo bolts at autozone if you find thats where the leak is.

3/31/2008 9:55:16 AM

k. After today I should be able to park it until I get a chance to fix it. Didn't drive the s2000 because the roads were nasty and e30 #2 should be back together and on the road tonight.

By the way, I might need that check panel. The one I bought on eBay doesn't fit my car. The connector on the back of the panel is different. What year is yours?

[Edited on March 31, 2008 at 10:00 AM. Reason : s]

3/31/2008 9:59:38 AM

Quote :

"WTB: Two Door Handle Surrounds (Interior Trim Piece) Glove box Door lock knobs 5-speed shift knob (OEM or tasteful aftermarket) Warning Panel (above rear view mirror) for ABS cars. Power Window Switch Hood Shock Two Door Key Blanks - Does anyone sell these? I only see ignition key blanks on eBay. Four 16" tires. Something close to 205/50/16 would be good. Clock/computer thing that goes above the radio. Shocks - Anyone put on a set of shocks/springs and got the stock ones left over? "

Burke Bros worked out for the keys btw. Thanks Doc Rambo

[Edited on April 8, 2008 at 1:54 PM. Reason : s]

4/8/2008 1:36:36 PM

What has to be removed to get to the water pump on an 1991 318is? I have a coolant leak that is dropping maybe 10 drops per night. Just enough to be annoying, but not enough to be a gushing leak.

I think it's coming from the o-ring where the water pump meets the engine, but I just can't tell for sure. I figure if I start taking stuff apart in that direction I'll find the leak. The radiator and all of it's fittings look great. If I crawl under the car there is coolant that is seeping around the oil pan and then dripping to the ground.

If you hadn't already figured it out, I bought another e30.

[Edited on April 9, 2008 at 1:47 PM. Reason : s]

4/9/2008 1:46:55 PM

remove fan shroud, knock the fan clutch off (reverse threaded), remove any accessory belts that are in the way, the water pump has four bolts, one is longer than the rest


i want to say you need a 32mm wrench to get the fan clutch off, the thinner the better

4/9/2008 2:01:12 PM

Cool. Thanks. Not sure when I'll do this, but hopefully soon.

Should the pulley on an AC compressor spin freely? The belts are not hooked up to it on this car. I'm guessing it quit working, but I don't know why they would bypass it unless it locked up or something.

[Edited on April 9, 2008 at 2:16 PM. Reason : l]

4/9/2008 2:16:08 PM

yah, it should spin freely.

probably unhooked to get a bit more powR out of it.

4/9/2008 2:17:36 PM

yeah, unless the clutch is messed up a compressor pulley will spin freely. the compressor could still be locked up or otherwise junk though.

as for the coolant, most water pump have a weep hole somewhere on the underside of the body. when a pump is about to go bad, they'll start leaking past the shaft seal. it's a design feature to give you a heads up. it could definitely be the gasket at the mounting surface also, just an fyi.

4/9/2008 3:19:42 PM

Good to know. I guess I'll see it when I get to the water pump if that's the case.

Anyone got a spare water pump?

Quote :

"probably unhooked to get a bit more powR out of it."

Probably. I heard that was popular when the Hype R came out because it allowed e30's to run all over them.

[Edited on April 9, 2008 at 4:29 PM. Reason : s]

4/9/2008 4:21:22 PM

Guys...
My OG e30 (the 1989 auto) is the one that is hemorrhaging power steering fluid. I crawled under today and saw that both boots are busted as hell and just dumping fluid out. There might be more leaks, but that's all I noticed immediately.



Are those boots being busted a sign of a bigger problem with the steering rack though? I wasn't driving the car at the time that they busted and I really don't know what happened. Would this be caused by someone holding the wheel at full lock or something?

If I just do the boots are there any other parts I should replace at the same time (like parts 2 & 3 in the picture?)

[Edited on April 10, 2008 at 7:15 PM. Reason : l]

4/10/2008 7:12:49 PM

^^ on an e30, unfortunately, swapping the water pump requires you to de-tension the timing belt. Might as well be prepared to do the whole swap

It's a pretty frustrating design, much improved on the e36. When I was doing the last t-belt job on my e30, I didn't have a good seal between the pump/gasket/engine, wound up having a considerable leak. Used a bit of silicon the second time, but that forced me to redo the entire t-belt job again. Make sure to do it right the first time!

4/10/2008 9:09:34 PM

Quote :

"Probably. I heard that was popular when the Hype R came out because it allowed e30's to run all over them."

oh snap.

no you di'nt

4/10/2008 10:32:50 PM

i can change an M20 timing belt and water pump in an hour i bet after doing it twice in one day. 2nd time was after i realized i just installed the wrong model water pump.

4/10/2008 10:52:13 PM

Quote :

"^^ on an e30, unfortunately, swapping the water pump requires you to de-tension the timing belt. Might as well be prepared to do the whole swap"

Even on the M42 with the timing chain?

Do you ever need to replace those chains btw?

Quote :

"i can change an M20 timing belt and water pump in an hour i bet after doing it twice in one day. 2nd time was after i realized i just installed the wrong model water pump."

Oh snap. So like, I was thinking about grilling some chixen soon. You should come over an hour or two before and hang out.

Quote :

"Are those boots being busted a sign of a bigger problem with the steering rack though? "

Anybody?

[Edited on April 10, 2008 at 10:59 PM. Reason : l]

4/10/2008 10:56:28 PM

the boots are just dust sheilds. If theyre full of fluid you have bad seals in the rack. i think that means new rack time.

4/10/2008 11:06:45 PM

Dammit...That's what I was afraid of.

4/10/2008 11:08:19 PM

Quote :

"i can change an M20 timing belt and water pump in an hour"

i'll take that bet in a heartbeat

4/11/2008 3:18:00 PM

1) unscrew radiator hose clamps, try to catch coolant. two radiator mount bolts. take out radiator (4min)

2) take off distributer cap and upper belt cover (2min)

3) remove accessory belts (3min)

3) turn motor to TDC (align cam and crank pulley arrows w/ marks) (1min)

4) take the six crank pulley bolts out and remove lower cover (5min)

5) undo two tensioner bolts and remove belt and tensioner (3min)

6) unbolt water pump. like five or so bolts ( 3min)

7) put new gasket on and bolt and torque water pump (5min)

8) put tensioner on w/ the spring thing, squeeze it fully untensioned and tighten the screw down to keep it there (3min)

9) put on belt (5min)

10) let tensioner to and slowly crank motor by the crank w/ a ratchet. make sure marks stay aligned. tighten tensioner bolt (5min)

11) put lower cover back on (2min)

12) put crank pulley back on (3min)

13) put upper cover and distributer cap back on (3min)

14) put accessory belts back on (5min)

15) drop radiator back on, two bolts, two hoses (5min)

16) give 'er some water and start 'er up.

55min, boyeee.

4/11/2008 8:16:59 PM

This steering rack is being a bitch. What's the deal with those locking plates you have to pry open to disconnect the inner tie rods? I got the fronts of them pryed up by putting a screwdriver against it and hitting it with a hammer. I'm trying to pry the back, but I don't have room to swing a hammer. Any tips?

4/18/2008 9:30:05 PM

theyre soft, you can just unscrew the rod end and they'll bend/give. It should just be a small tab thats actually preventing the rotation. Then of course use new ones w/ the new ends.

4/19/2008 12:03:15 PM