5

7/13/2008 11:56:45 PM

Quote :

"ill take the video after work sat and post it sometime sat night or sunday morning."

another unfulfilled statement. surprise, surprise.

Quote :

"you've fucked his car up and just don't want to admit it, haven't you?"

7/14/2008 6:24:19 PM

yeah... where's da video... foo

7/14/2008 7:53:04 PM

no vid...

7/15/2008 6:49:49 PM

JBaz please come to my house and throw the 1st punch so i can throw ur 8billion dollar camera on the ground that has only fugly sluts stored on it that you will never get with. Then, I will proceed piss on it and then bend ur knee backwards over the curb in my front yard and break it once again so you can bitch about it for 2 years and how hardcore you are.

or maybe i could beat you with a dead deer carcass since you brag about owning a baby fawn with ur ragged f2 till this day.

get the fuck outta this thread oh mighty 'deer killer'. please don't make comments about anything mechanical ever again unless it concerns your retarded camera and how the lens broke while taking pics of fugly sluts.



[Edited on July 15, 2008 at 8:37 PM. Reason : .]

7/15/2008 8:33:31 PM

well your boy was the one who said he'd post a vid... no vid... what's with the flame? At least I'm investing my money in something that can actually make money... Btw, I sold the F2 like 18 months ago.

7/16/2008 12:52:37 AM

maybe he's having trouble finding the video thread? it's okay slowblack, we'll let this one slide in here. or, just bring the car to benson tomorrow night. i'm sure it's got to be on the road by now, right?

7/17/2008 3:41:37 AM

if you need some help with the car, just ask. What exactly does it need? just breakin time? Fix some leaks? I don't get why this thread is such a pissing match.

7/17/2008 11:26:25 AM

^cause of Will and him bragging... And besides, OP has:

Quote :

"that is all. flame/hate away"

7/17/2008 8:37:11 PM

7/18/2008 1:30:24 AM

HAPPY 5000 from your boy SLOWBLACK96


hahaha funny how im baned from yall niggas thing god i hooked up with kyle this weekend.

her you failures go.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=ps72geanSq0

http://youtube.com/watch?v=oiPYtG0UsYs

http://youtube.com/watch?v=ok932BEZMLU

on the last vid a clamp breaks loose so thats what the weird noise is.

if anybody wants to rid in a DSM that is correctly built come find me.

BBR good luck in court monday

i told you the shit ran
i showed you the shit ran
and we will see yall at the next freeky friday like we i posted earlier in the month.

i didnt get to see the times the AUTO vette ran at the track you did say you were going to 2 tracks but i see the illeagal regal got its doors blown off of it once, care to have it happen again by the rice moble.

BTW thanks for the guys that asked real questions and had legit stuff to ask and the interest in the build. i still have the kinks to work out and after driving this one eyed wonder, its the smoothest dsm i have EVER driven............................


anymore questions please unban me as i havenot stuck my toe in my mouth again.

[Edited on July 18, 2008 at 3:20 AM. Reason : lolbbrs]

7/18/2008 3:17:35 AM

man, is that the BOV making that noise?

7/18/2008 3:24:20 AM

if you are talking about the last (gasp of air) that is the home depot pluming breaking loose.

[

[Edited on July 18, 2008 at 3:51 AM. Reason : ]

7/18/2008 3:27:37 AM

never mind, not BOV. it's the noise on rev-up, not off-throttle.

7/18/2008 4:07:12 AM

Quote :

"i didnt get to see the times the AUTO vette ran at the track you did say you were going to 2 tracks but i see the illeagal regal got its doors blown off of it once, care to have it happen again by the rice moble."

noone gets to see the times. but go ahead and give it a try. as for my olds, i left in 2nd that pass.

7/18/2008 7:19:31 AM

Quote :

"hahaha funny how im baned from yall niggas"

waht? no you're not. you're name doesn't say suspended. maybe the memory of your password got bumped for one other thing.

Quote :

"i told you the shit ran i showed you the shit ran"

seriously? the only thing you've shown in those lame videos (which come almost TWO WEEKS after you said they would) is what we already knew. it's clear that the car won't idle on its own and it didn't even make it down the street and back without something breaking, lol. not to mention it took 5 minutes to crank and what is that awful bearing/valves/something clattering noise in the first one? i hope someone was just playing a joke and shaking a can of marbles around.

like i've said more than once now, i never doubted it might start up and half ass run/drive around the block, and that's all you've proven. where's the proof it's really a full driveable/streetable car? there is none, and that's all that matters.

Quote :

"BBR good luck in court monday"

thanks, but that's already taken care of/retracted/dismissed. august 6th is the only date of any concern (93 in a 65), but even that's just business as usual.

Quote :

"i didnt get to see the times the AUTO vette ran at the track you did say you were going to 2 tracks"

i don't see the point of anything in this statement? even if you knew the times, you still have nothing to offer either car. not that it's incredibly difficult to figure out what the thing runs if you ever showed up anywhere. hell, anyone with half a brain could probably come up with a damn close estimate just based on knowing the few mods it has. it's not like a cam/bolt on c5 is something rare.

Quote :

"i see the illeagal regal got its doors blown off of it once, care to have it happen again by the rice moble."

yeah, it got beat on its first "official" pass ever made since the build vs. a car that's made more passes than i can remember. i'll be eager to hear what double digit number this failure runs its first time out. my offer still stands that i'll clown it with the white grand cherokee.

Quote :

"i still have the kinks to work out"

you've been working these "kinks" out for weeks. anyone else could have rebuilt the motor again by now. maybe it's just time to throw in the towel and take the loss.

Quote :

"as for my olds, i left in 2nd that pass."

not to mention it's probably a good 500-600lbs. heavier and sits on 235's vs. 305's.

7/18/2008 10:49:17 PM

god that fucking sounds awful. i've seen cars with a spun rod bearing sound better than that

7/18/2008 11:10:04 PM

the cloud of smoke as it rides off in the second one is nice too. i might would excuse it for fuel smoke, except that it's obvious there's not much throttle being applied. poor dsm.

7/18/2008 11:38:58 PM

Quote :

"never mind, not BOV. it's the noise on rev-up, not off-throttle."

well if its the first noise in the first vid its in the clutch.

i didnt read anything else after that. yes the car obviosly has kinks to work out

you niggers said the car was not driveable, well it is. you asked for video you got it. im not building this car to please you ass hats. if you DO NOT LIKE IT OR HAVE NOTHING GOOD TO ADD STFU AND GET OUT


[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 1:53 AM. Reason : thanks anything else can be pmed to him or i]

7/19/2008 1:51:04 AM

listen you dense mother fucker, let me break this down into numbers for you, maybe that'll make it easier for you and sumfoo1 to understand. i sometimes forget this is a college based board and assumes a reasonable level of intellectual ability that can be used if needed.

1. for the last time, no one said it wasn't driveable at all. we/i have been saying it's not a FULLY driveable FULLY streetable car. do you understand what that means? that's driving it back and forth to work, taking a trip to the beach, going to the track, whatever. there's nothing hard or impressive about a car that can limp and wheeze down the street and back.

2. you're bragging about videos that were supposed to happen two weeks ago. this is in addition to the 600 other claimed and failed deadlines. yeah, you really showed us!

3. the car doesn't idle, it gots an awful noise coming from something mechanical (clutch you claim? throwout bearing?), smokes like a diesel, and doesn't even go down the street without something breaking. please, explain to me again how that is any sort of success or the proof that was asked for?

4. you can keep making demands for people to get out of the thread, but you know damn well that doesn't happen on tww and it sure as hell isn't happening to this one. the entertainment value is too high. if you ever do provide some proof of the car truly being on the road and finished, i might stop talking about that part. i definitely still plan to be in here as often as possible reminding you of how long it took and laughing at it clattering and smoking its way down the track should it ever make it.

Quote :

"yes the car obviosly has kinks to work out"

lol, that's great you call them kinks. yeah, the next time i hear a motor with rod knock i'm just going to say "yeah, it just needs some kinks worked out, no big deal" lmao.

[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 3:10 AM. Reason : .]

7/19/2008 3:07:07 AM

I'm pretty surprised Kyle hasn't sold the project off already. I'd give it another month till it's sold and a new project comes up...

7/19/2008 5:33:47 AM

not salin' this unit. i promised my friend he could drive it, and right now he's in the hospital for a while, as soon as he gets out and is able to drive a car I'll let him drive this unit around.

the rattling sound is a throwout bearings or something. it's not even that loud. just amplified by shitty camera. didnt even notice the sound until i put the vids online. hell it could be intercooler piping rattling off the car somewhere and i put the camera right next to it.. it's not coming from the engine.

I'm pretty excited to be drivering it around, thak's again slowblack96


[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 6:50 AM. Reason : .]

7/19/2008 6:47:29 AM

Let's discuss the smoking for a second. Post a pic of your turbo and oil line setup on the actual car. On the first page it appears that you are running banjo fittings with 4AN precut stainless line. Do you know if this application requires a restrictor for the oil feed line? The return line appears to be heavy duty rubber/silicone with barbed AN fittings. Is this how it is on the car, or did you just post stock photos of the stuff? The CHRA of the turbo needs to be oriented perpendicular to the ground (or as close as you can manage), and gravity should be pulling the oil right into the pan and not backing up--which means that the oil return line needs to be short with a good angle to it.

Personally, I've seen my share of problematic oil lines causing smoke, leaks, etc. They are a huge pain in the ass to get right. For my oil return I had silicone type hose on the car for a week or two and it would still drip even with t-bolt clamps on the ends. I switched to 10AN stainless. It took a few hours (and $50 worth of hose and fittings) to cut it to the perfect size and install the fittings, but the oil line never dripped again.

Also, is this an actual Mitsubishi 16G turbo (stamped on the housing)? Or is it an ebay knockoff? And when are you going to ditch that piping and go with the real deal? You really should take it somewhere to get aluminum piping welded. It takes $$ to make reliable custom turbo plumbing, trust me dude...

[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 9:02 AM. Reason : the oil return line should NOT sag in any way or oil will back up...]

7/19/2008 9:01:06 AM

when i get the exhaust done ill get the piping welded up right as well.

as for the return line, there is a small kink in it... but i don't see why that shouldn't stop it from flowing plenty well since the stainless feed line is so small and the kink is minuscule. who knows, im dumb.

it's a real evo 16g with 10k miles on it. no shaft play etc.

the engine has new rings, bearings, block was all setup properly by the machine shop etc.

i still think it's just dumping fuel in there from the 550's and no tuning yet and ur mistaking the smoke for oil when it's just gas



[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 11:28 AM. Reason : .]

7/19/2008 11:12:04 AM

in all seriousness, that noise in the first vid definitely isn't something just rattling. it's a decided bearing noise or the valves. throwout or maybe accessory bearing would certainly make the most sense to me judging from the vid. if it was the valves it would get faster/louder with revving and i don't hear it then. easy enough to eliminate or confirm the throwout though, if the noise changes or goes away when the clutch is depressed or when you apply some load to the disc letting it out in gear there's the problem. you might as well go ahead and take care of it now if that's what it is before you finish the rest of the "kinks". put a decent disc and pressure plate back in too. at best it might just fail and leave you on the side of the road somewhere. the real fun is if it seizes from the heat to the input shaft, pressure plate, or fork in the process.

as for the smoke, i keep seeing the word tuning thrown around. this isn't a wild setup, a custom burned chip or the like will certainly optmize things but it should run pretty damn well with the stock controls unless i'm missing something. fuel smoke is a fact of life at WOT, but shouldn't be happening like that on just an easy takeoff. is the ecu a known good one? still walbro 255 and 580's for fuel delivery? any fpr? what's your final setup for air metering? i see what appears to be a gm maf and you're obviously venting the bov to atmosphere... were the valve seals changed? how were the rings gapped/fitted/installed? i think arghx is alluding to the fact the oil line could be supplying too much pressure as a result of volume or inadequate return and it's getting by the shaft seal. again, i'm only speculating from a youtube video and this is dead simple to diagnose in five minutes also. just look at the smoke color. if it's gray/black, it's fuel. if it's got a blue tint, it's oil. white, it's coolant.

the only thing i might be concerned with is both problems being the result of the same thing: shaft play in the turbo. it usually doesn't cause such an audible noise though.



[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 5:39 PM. Reason : also, why won't it idle?]

7/19/2008 5:22:42 PM

http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=105

Did you read everything there is to possibly know about your MAF translater and configure everything to instructions? It needs to be set up for the injectors properly so your fuel trims essentially zero out. It's pretty basic shit man, just read the instructions, hook up a datalogger, and turn some knobs. But you better have ZERO boost/vacuum leaks or this thing won't ever work right. I have messed with similar stuff (ARC-2) on 3000GT's which also have a factory Karmann Vortex-style airflow sensor. What's annoying is that Karmann Vortex signals are not totally linear. On more precise systems like MAP ECU or E-manage it's tricky to make adjustments (especially building cruising maps) because, depending on load, a 1% change in the airflow signal to the ECU (in Hz , not actual calculated mass like on a hot wire sensor) does not necessarily mean a 1% change in the amount of fuel delivered.

This car probably has vacuum leaks My friend went through the same shit on his VR-4, but it is way worse on that car because of all the emissions bullshit and the twin turbo plumbing. You may have some leaky blockoff plates, or anything like that. You need to pressure test it. Spraying carb cleaner won't cut it.

[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 6:25 PM. Reason : .]

7/19/2008 6:18:23 PM

^truth. i guess i assumed there had at least been some baseline settings/datalogging done here, but probably not knowing slowblack. don't even confuse him with the karmann stuff since it's gone. the mafT is supposed to compensate for any false voltage increases as a result of switching to a blow thru setup as well.

the tb shaft bushings and gaskets love to leak on them also and are an often overlooked source of leaks until you pressure test the system...

7/19/2008 7:33:13 PM

dude who rebuilt the engine didn't do the valve seals, y i don't know most likely being lazy and that's y i had to get the car outta there in the first place. that could be the problem. when this car gets some cams put in it, we'll do those at the same time. that's the only part of the car that doesn't have new gaskets.

the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate are all new (just stock stuff (except for the flywheel) that came with the car, but new so i didn't want to throw dough down on new stuff at the moment since doing the clutch changes on this car aren't hard). i definitely wouldn't rule out it being the throwout bearing.

the maft tuning crap has yet to be messed with. the ecu in the car is brand new.



[Edited on July 20, 2008 at 1:34 AM. Reason : ..]

7/20/2008 1:26:48 AM

I can't believe you actually had Kevin do any work on that car... I thought you hated the dude after the painting the hawk incident.

7/20/2008 1:50:08 AM

we should be seeing this unit in action thurs. night, right? we know slowblack hasn't been on here, so he's had lots of time to dial it in perfect!

7/23/2008 1:47:44 AM

Says the guy with years of tuning experience...

Sorry that sounds like i'm giving slowback credit... i'm not....


[Edited on July 23, 2008 at 7:52 AM. Reason : .]

7/23/2008 7:52:04 AM

^yep, i guess it's been about 6 years now since i first tuned one of these cars and 10 years for anything else. hard to believe for me, too.

even a monkey like you might could figure out a mafT. you know, since you've got so many years of tuning google experience.

7/23/2008 7:54:20 PM

i can see will stabbing at the ecu with a rusty screwdriver.

7/23/2008 11:55:45 PM

HAHA

7/24/2008 12:16:06 AM

literally.... stabbing

7/24/2008 12:17:48 AM

WELL DANG, IT WONT STOP BLUE SMOKIN !! LETS GIT COOK OUT.

7/24/2008 12:21:55 AM

lol

7/24/2008 1:19:46 AM

* i too can talk shit without having any idea who i'm talking to.

7/24/2008 7:49:33 AM

ttt, another week goes by. i guess anything involving a computer is pretty damn complicated when you forget how to log on to tww.

Quote :

"i too can talk shit without having any idea who what i'm talking to about."

yes, we know forrest gump. you just keep on RUN-NING and maybe you'll figure it all out one day.

7/27/2008 9:45:34 PM

bttt?

8/5/2008 2:53:57 PM

let this thread die...

but seriously... where'd it at?

8/5/2008 4:45:36 PM

r.i.p. dsm

8/21/2008 7:36:36 AM

I think it's driveable, but now he's having title issues. namely he lost the notarized title and doesn't really know who he bought it from.

8/21/2008 7:59:20 AM

i spent the time writing it a couple of months ago, someone might as well benefit from it.

Quote :

"i know the subject of lost titles and no recourse with the previous owner comes up here from time to time. just figured i'd detail my process of going through obtaining a lost title with an indemnity bond for one of my other pos's. 1. attempt to contact the last person vehicle was titled to. unsuccessful. 2. call insurance (state farm) and request information and quote on the bond. unfortunately, they go by retail value but it's not a big deal for me personally. i barely fall in the $3000 or less category, so my fee is $50 per year. ncdmv requires the bond to be on file for 3 years. if a verifiable claim is made against the vehicle in that time, you are responsible for paying the insurance company the retail amount. 3. take proof of insurance and bond to dmv. obtain bonded title and registration."

Quote :

"also, i know i've detailed before in other threads but i'll do it again here to keep all this info in one place for searches. before anything else, don't forget trying to contact the last owner and meeting up with or having them complete an affadavit of facts form. unless they're well versed in titles and have submitted a form releasing them from ownership, it's in their best interest to get the thing out of their name for liability reasons and a number of others. politely explain that to them if they don't want to help you. like most anything else, being polite gets you the furthest and offering a few bucks for their time doesn't hurt. even if you have to do some driving to another area to get it done, i assure you this is the easiest/cheapest/least risky route 99% of the time. if you don't have and need the info of the last registration, it's super easy. by law, vehicle records are public info unless requested by the owner not to be. rarely happens. just take the vin, fill out the request for info for on the dmv site, and for $1 ($10 if you need a legal copy for some reason) you get the last known owner's name, their address, insurance company, etc. you still might have to do a little work to get their current address or phone number, but that's easy enough if you have a name. if for nothing else, this can be worth doing just to determine what's up with the last owner so you can gauge the risk of proceeding with a bonded title if you hit a dead end. send any correspondence by certified mail, at least initially and certainly for any forms. provide them the same means of return to you. this gives you records and a paper trail that can legally be entered into evidence and used to your advantage in court if anything should happen. record any phone conversations if you can. it's not required by law in nc and most other states, but if they seem to be cool get consent just to solidify things. i think that i may have found a loophole to get a title and avoid all this b.s. if your specific situation can meet a couple of requirements, but i'd rather not post it in public just yet since it's a definite gray area legally and i have no idea if it would even work. if it does work, it would only do so for certain cases. if you want to try it at your own risk, drop me a pm and i can explain more. to disclaim it a little more, i wouldn't even think about attempting this unless you're absolutely certain of the vehicle's history, or at least the circumstances surrounding the last legal owner. the dot/dmv gets pretty pissy when they get screwed, and they have a heavy hand and big fines. lastly, there are the outright illegal ways to get a title like using a vin/title from a parts vehicle, a vin old enough (35+ years) to not require bonded titling, passing it off as a custom built (much harder now), or whatever. i won't even touch this subject though, and don't recommend it. it's just not worth it with all the recent legislation on title fraud. besides that, you also never really have a fully legal vehicle. it's on paper, but that's it. you're asking for some real consequences if it ever turns up as suspicious, you sell it and that person gets busted for it, or otherwise does something stupid with the vehicle. did i mention yet what a pain in the ass it is to recover a lost title? i'm probably leaving some things out, but that's all i can think of at the moment and should cover most situations fairly well. bring on any questions/comments/rebuttal."

8/21/2008 10:43:34 AM

couple of q's and a's too...

_____________________________________________________________________________________

Quote :

"So you pay your insurance company $50/year or so for the bond."

correct. that's only for my specific vehicle though, being worth less than $3000. different insurance companies might vary in their fees also, i don't know. i use state farm.

Quote :

"Does that mean you're covered in the event of an ownership claim?"

no! this is where you take a risk, especially if it's something with any value. the bond is ONLY to cover the dmv's ass, not yours. if a legitimate claim is made to the vehicle, you a.) have to give it up or b.) the bond pays out 1.5 times the vehicle value. you then owe this amount, in full, to your insurance company.

Quote :

"Also, if you sell the car, do you have to keep paying $50/year for three years or does the next owner take that on?"

very good question that i don't know the answer to. i'll see if i can find out. i would think it transfers to the new owner like any other title and they assume the responsibility of the bond, but that's just a guess.



[Edited on August 21, 2008 at 10:50 AM. Reason : .]

8/21/2008 10:48:52 AM

Quote :

"I think it's driveable, but now he's having title issues. namely he lost the notarized title and doesn't really know who he bought it from."

icing on the cake

8/21/2008 2:01:52 PM

gg

8/23/2008 8:01:59 PM

Ahh yes, another failed project.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/844396042.html

[quote]91 gst.. the engine is in the car. it runs well.. spools well.. just needs an oil leak fixed and some dyno tuning time or a street tune done on it. I have put about 4000 in this car. im just tired of tinkering with it.
-new stock zoom oem replacement clutch
-new fidanza lightened flywheel
-550cc injectors.
-bigger fuel pump (i guess just say 255, not sure how big tho)
-vafc II (installed)
-maft translator with gm thing
-aem wide band air fuel ratio thing..with o2 sensor and exhaust pipe is welded up already for it
-mls steel head gasket
-balance shaft elminator kit.
-rebuilt engine with topline rebuild kit
-big FMIC setup, with all piping included and couplers (t-bolt clamps).
-bill of sale in hand right now. getting the title this weekend for it.
-slow boy racing boost controller.
-brand new/rebuilt ecu (non eprom)
-stainless steel turbo oil feed lines
-hardened engine mounts
-all of the intercooler piping is properly hooked up
-i have a brand new front bumper for it (plastic skin, primer grey)
-power steering removed
-a/c removed
-silicone couplers with t-bolt clamps for the intercooler setup.
i think that is everything.
the car has an oil leak coming from some seal on the bottom end around the timing belt. I don't feel like messin with this car anymore, in college and just cant keep tinkering with it.
it can be driven around, just leaks oil and should be fixed before it is driven a long distance.
i have a bill of sale for the car right now. I get the title this weekend some time.

9/17/2008 1:41:01 PM

Quote :

"Thanks for flagging."

9/17/2008 1:54:11 PM

Quote :

"i have a bill of sale for the car right now. I get the title this weekend some time. "

I bet that doesn't happen.

9/17/2008 2:08:14 PM