I got them off this morning. Now I'm having trouble with the u-joint that connects to the steering column. I've got some liquid wrench on it now...Hoping it will come off when I go back out there.

4/19/2008 2:07:32 PM

K...that's done. Didn't realize you have to bend those tabs on the subframe to get the rack out. Once it was out pulling that u-joint wasn't so bad.

4/19/2008 2:59:24 PM

racks on euopien cars fuckin suck. did one on my old audi 2000 cs. who the fuck puts a rack in the back of an engine bay. lol
btw good luck mang

4/19/2008 6:33:43 PM

i bet a telephone pole makes anything hard to get out of a mustang, even the drunk ass driver

4/19/2008 6:40:10 PM

who hit a telephone pole. if your going to try and fuck someone get youre facts strait sweet69forbuttseksguy

4/19/2008 6:59:49 PM

the fact is you drove drunk, you could have killed other people, and we all wish you would have died

4/19/2008 7:26:59 PM

if everyone cared i wouldnt be on here. IMO.

4/19/2008 7:35:15 PM

imo you are a dumbass that deserved to die if you didnt learn from it

4/19/2008 7:37:32 PM

^^^ i dont think you get to speak for everyone...

i mean i know a lot of people here dislike maybe even hate him.. but i dont think anyone on here besides you are foolish enough to wish death on people...

i work at a law firm and see people with dwi's all day.. people you would never expect it from.. everyone makes mistakes. not excusing it but it happens

4/19/2008 7:42:40 PM

^ but not everyone continues to do it and brags about getting off the hook

4/19/2008 7:43:15 PM

^show me where i brag about it and laugh it off.

4/19/2008 7:45:39 PM

you're doing it right now, i don't get it, you bitch out on a race, destroy your car, almost kill innocent people, get a dui, fuck your car up several times doing stupid shit drunk, do nig shit on other peoples cars and risk their lives, hell, you brag about being a dumbass period every post you make adds to your dumbass total

4/19/2008 7:47:45 PM

^^^ do you know if he got off the hook?

cause i think it would be pretty hard to get away with a wreck like that have cops involved and not have to go to court for it and get some sort of fine... suspension .. or jail time

maybe he just flipped the car over and rolled it home lol... that sound logical.. im sure he got away with it

[Edited on April 19, 2008 at 7:49 PM. Reason : oops .. and no more responses from me]

[Edited on April 19, 2008 at 7:49 PM. Reason : quit messing up peoples threads... if you are that obsessed with slowblack96 make a thread about it.]

4/19/2008 7:47:46 PM

Quote :

"do nig shit on other peoples cars "

i see words but i cant put them together

4/19/2008 7:49:08 PM

i don't get it, you bitch out on a race, destroy your car, almost kill innocent people, get a dui, fuck your car up several times doing stupid shit drunk, do nig shit on other peoples cars and risk their lives, hell, you brag about being a dumbass period every post you make adds to your dumbass total

4/19/2008 7:50:39 PM

I decided to swap out the outer tie rods while I had it on the stands, but now I have a different problem. I have the passenger side tie rod cranked down as many times as I could turn it, but it is still way out of alignment to the point that you can see the tire is turned when it is supposed to be straight. I pulled it off and compared it to the old part and it is about a half inch longer. I think I might have literally run out of internal threads and that might be why it won't turn any more. Do I:
a) Buy another tie rod, maybe of a different brand, and see if it comes in any shorter.
b) Cut the tie rod I have (which seems like it would be a bitch.)
c) Take it to an alignment shop and be like "ALIGN THIS BEEYOTCH!"


Maybe an alignment shop could crank it down further, but I doubt it.

4/21/2008 8:35:15 PM

you sure they sent you the right ones?

4/21/2008 9:06:29 PM

They're Autozone junk, but I'm sure I got the right ones. The driver side one looks great and I'm sure it will align fine. I'm not taking it off to compare to the passenger side one though. There's always the possibility that this is the result of something being wonky with the new steering rack too, but I really think this part is just a little too long.

[Edited on April 21, 2008 at 9:11 PM. Reason : l]

4/21/2008 9:10:41 PM

What brand are they?

4/22/2008 7:28:13 AM

BUILT TO LAST
DURALAST

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP384460/vehicleId,1029301/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,428/partType,00194/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

4/22/2008 8:52:27 AM

hrmm. well if you need new parts quick, you can always go to carquest and they can sell you proper lemforder or meyle parts and get em in a couple hours. I don't know whats wrong w/ your situation. Itd probably be worth pulling the other side to compare lengths though.. it'd at least rule out the rack. or maybe first find a new part at carquest and compare lengths.

4/22/2008 8:55:52 AM

I thought about putting the old one back in as a way to verify the new steering rack. I'd rather have another new part on hand before I do any more work to it though. It sat on jack stands all weekend with miscellaneous parts and tools strewn all over the driveway. I'm sure the neighbors loved it. I'll run by Carquest after work and pick the part up tomorrow. I just want to have everything on hand to get this job done and put it behind me.

[Edited on April 22, 2008 at 9:14 AM. Reason : l]

4/22/2008 9:12:26 AM

finally got around to chipping the 318 and what a world of difference it makes. i highly recommend the turner motorsports chip.

5/3/2008 6:30:55 PM

Oh yeah...I forgot to update on the tie rods. Some of y'all might find this helpful.

The Duralast one from Autozone one was physically too long. There was no way that wheel could align.

The MOOG one from Carquest worked great until I tried to put the wheel on. It had a grease fitting that scrubbed the inside of my wheel. It's a factory 14" "bottle cap" wheel, so there isn't much excuse for it. Oh yeah, it was $66 after tax and the lady at Carquest didn't tell me that there were alternatives even after I commented that it seemed really expensive.

The TRW tie rod appears to be the OEM part. It was about $33 at Carquest and worked great.

I went ahead and replaced the front rotors and pads because the old rotors were warped all to hell. It's driving much better now.

What a bunch of B.S. for such a simple repair. Glad to have that shit done and the car drivable again. Just gotta get an alignment now. Who has cheap alignments around here?

[Edited on May 14, 2008 at 2:15 PM. Reason : l]

5/14/2008 2:13:19 PM

worldpac didnt have anything?

5/14/2008 3:29:53 PM

I think the TRW one came from Worldpac. I just wish they had asked up front "Do you want this $66 part or this $33 part" because it would have saved me some headache.

Pepper has treated me well up to this point and I'm just glad she is still kicking it. (name given by previous owner )

[Edited on May 14, 2008 at 4:51 PM. Reason : ;l]

5/14/2008 4:38:53 PM

only peppa i know is a z28.lol there is two

5/14/2008 7:42:27 PM

Hey fags, my E30 track car is for sale:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1008515

5/21/2008 5:23:09 PM

What would y'all use to paint the grill, mirrors, and that aluminum window trim?

I'm thinking Krylon Fusion for the grill and mirrors. I've had good results with it on all things plastic. I read a tech article a couple of years ago that recommended some specific paint for the window trim, but I don't remember what it was.

5/27/2008 1:26:01 PM

bumper coating ftw. worked better than a champ on my metal bumpters and grill plastics.

5/27/2008 1:28:49 PM

?

Also, flat black, or blingin gloss?

[Edited on May 27, 2008 at 1:37 PM. Reason : l]

5/27/2008 1:33:34 PM

the kinda i got looks sort of satin. def not glossy. it looks just like black plastic or rubber.

5/27/2008 1:57:50 PM

Any shop suggestions on converting a car to R134 and getting my A/C working? If it is just a leak, how much can I expect to spend getting it converted to R134 and finding the leak?

5/29/2008 4:33:41 PM

a/c is probably one of the hardest things to estimate a repair on without knowing where the leak is. it could be anything from a 99 cent O ring to multiple leaks from bigger parts like the condenser, compressor, etc.

to test the system and convert it properly, it really needs to be done by a professional. the average weekend warrior just doesn't have the tools to do everything, and they're not really cost effective to buy unless you plan on doing a lot of a/c work in the future. there's also a lot of things you can screw up in a system if you don't have formal training/experience, not to mention the risk of bodily injury in some cases.

imo, it's money well spent to have a/c stuff done at a good shop. or, at the least have them recover any existing contents, put a vacuum on it, and diagnose any problem areas. then you can repair the problem and charge it yourself with a much higher chance of success. you might get lucky doing the old $39.99 (or whatever it is) r134 conversion kit from advance and nothing else, but 8 times out of 10 you've wasted your money.

if you're dead set on at least trying it yourself at home first, here's what i'd suggest:

1. recover any remaining contents of the system and leave the valve open for step 2. of course, i don't advocate venting to atmosphere and al gore sheds a tear for every molecule. approved recovery devices only.

2. make sure the compressor is operational. since the system is empty, you'll likely have to jump the low pressure switch to make it start. don't let it run long, you'll burn it up. just cycle it on/off a few times for a few seconds at a time and long enough to purge anything that might be left in the system from step 1.

3. it would be great if you had some means to pull a vacuum on the system, but not an absolute necessity. i know some people keep vacuum pumps around for other reasons, or they have one of the fancy all purpose portable compressors that will reverse for fully deflating large water toys, etc. some of these might not pull as much as would be ideal to get all the air/moisture out, but it's better than nothing. if it doesn't hold a vacuum, then you've got a leak somewhere. if it does hold, you're probably good to charge the system. you could still have issues though, like a clogged orifice, etc.

4. this is the next step if you do step 3 or not. get a can that has r134, uv dye, and compressor oil all in one. i think they include one of these types in the kit deals, but if not get one seperate. it will also come with a uv light. start the car, put the a/c on max, and begin filling the system from the bottle following the instructions. they're simple, but fairly important to follow to get the can flowing in right. hopefully, just that one can will be enough to get the compressor cycling, even just erratically. if it doesn't, back to the jump the switch trick to get things moving. here's where you use your uv light. any leaks will be visible as a bright neon yellow mist or liquid. let it run a bit while you look for anything obvious, then cut the car off and let it sit while you keep an eye on things. common points of leaks are any of the hard line mechnical connections, any part of the condenser, and the seal around the pulley shaft on the compressor.

5. if you decide to go for it and make it this far, post up and i (or someone) can move on and tell you how to complete the ghetto conversion with a repair if needed and then a full charge of freon and oil.

i know all of that might sounds easy, and it is. the problem is it's not that successful for any number of reasons. however, if you follow those basic steps you'll have the best chance of success possible with what you're working with.


[Edited on May 30, 2008 at 12:50 AM. Reason : shop reccomendation, go to four brothers on gresham lake. best guys around for just a/c imo.]

[Edited on May 30, 2008 at 12:55 AM. Reason : buttseks too, more than qualified with all tools. maybe he can fit one more in before he moves away.]

5/30/2008 12:45:39 AM

^ Thanks.

Pelican Parts had a good tech article on it which said a lot of the same things. The compressor was fairly new when I bought the car, so I'm hoping it is just a leak. The receiver drier, oil, and R134 seems cheap enough. I was thinking if I could get it vacuumed, converted to R134, and filled without spending $texas I'd start there and see what happens. I have never had any a/c work done or done any a/c work myself, so I really have no idea what this would normally cost. Just getting ideas. It's hot yo.

I will probably test the compressor before I spend any money on it, but other than that I really don't want to mess with it myself. I'm tired of doing car work.

[Edited on May 30, 2008 at 10:25 AM. Reason : l]

5/30/2008 10:25:18 AM

Anyone w/ an '87 wanna let me borrow their rear passenger running light? The one that goes in the rear bumper. I need it to pass inspection. I'll give it back in a couple hours.

6/3/2008 12:34:36 PM

Can you pull it from an 89?

6/3/2008 12:40:05 PM

actually, according to realoem theyre the same. so yep.

6/3/2008 12:49:16 PM

My E30 track car sold today. sad times

6/4/2008 10:09:09 PM

^ it's time to get an e36

6/4/2008 10:50:51 PM

he's already had one.

6/5/2008 12:42:42 AM

yup. an E39, too.

Actually, its time to get nothing and move to Australia. woot.

6/5/2008 12:22:18 PM

^ are you txbdan on nceuro?

6/5/2008 10:02:55 PM

yup

6/7/2008 6:28:04 AM

how much did you sell your e30 for? I may like to get one at some point. you can pm if you want

6/7/2008 9:45:03 AM

so ive looked everywhere, figured i'd try here as well . . .

trying to install a new alpine deck in my '91 325i, had a sony in there before that was installed by these "pros" back in gastonia a few years ago, so the factory wiring harness is gone and im left figuring out their wiring logic. i have everything running through a pac oem-2 and i get sound, but only VERY faint when the stereo is at full volume, as opposed to hearing nothing when wiring directly without the oem-2.

anybody had this problem before/have any suggestions? driving around in silence is taking years off my life. . .

6/28/2008 4:17:38 PM

well as long as the like 6-8 wires are there along with the antenna wire we can get it going again. shouldnt be a problem

6/28/2008 6:46:13 PM

Anyone here with an E30 change the subframe mounts, diff mount, and RTABs for OEMs? All of the articles I have read put polys in, which seem infinitely easier, but I am going for stock rubber. Anything special procedure-wise needed for stock rubber? I didnt know if I needed a press or anything.

Anyone sporting an M42?

6/30/2008 9:29:57 PM

Quote :

"1986 BMW 325 - $800 (Raleigh, NC)"

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/car/756643298.html

Too bad it's an "e" and an auto, but still a good commuter/beater car for the money.

Quote :

"Anyone sporting an M42?"

I've got one in one of my cars. Runs out good for an early 90's 4-cylinder and very well balanced.

[Edited on July 15, 2008 at 9:39 PM. Reason : l]

7/15/2008 9:36:34 PM

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=1e9_1221487659

9/15/2008 9:43:02 PM