^^ Check out some reviews, Duke. I have two 1911s, one with a match trigger, and the XD is now nearly as crisp. The beauty of the over travel stop is that you can fit the piece to however much or little take-up you desire. I surprised the shit out of myself pulling the trigger on a snap cap.

The cost is very reasonable.

8/23/2010 7:33:37 AM

I went to PDHSC today and looked for a .380 for ccw. They didn't have a LCP, but I handled the TCP and the P3AT. I liked the taurus a lot more. It had thicker grips, slide lock-back, and it simply pointed better for me. If I'm thinking correctly, the LCP is such a close copy of the P3AT, those ergonomic preferences would still apply. I think I'm going to be buying myself a TCP soon

In related news, is Rush teaching a CCW course soon?

8/25/2010 4:13:42 PM

^the TCP is a great gun; I like the LCP better for it's fit with my hand/quality/name/ruger's customer service over taurus's, but I'd never really knock taurus on quality, just customer service, should you ever need it. also, if you do go the LCP route, check Lawmen's... they were $40 cheaper than PDHSC. they don't carry taurus products there... in fact, if you ask about a taurus piece, you will get laughed at and lectured

8/25/2010 4:29:05 PM

How is the LCP's trigger compared to the others? I liked the TCP more than the keltec in this regard, but it's sort of like comparing one shiny turd to another less shiny turd.

8/25/2010 4:46:55 PM

it's fine to me... I don't really remember the differences, though. And I'm not someone who has had issues with how different triggers operate... you squeeze it and the gun goes bang... works for me (well, except for my friend's sig that's like 14 lb or something ridiculous).

8/25/2010 5:10:20 PM

The LCP and P3AT triggers are basically the same. Neither trigger is better and you'd find just as much variation between different guns of the same model as you would between models.
The only real functional difference between the LCP and P3AT is the P3AT has more aggressive checkering.

8/25/2010 11:20:46 PM

Ok...I have a FN PBR .308 tactical, Marlin 336 30-30, S&W M&P15 w/ .22lr kit, Marlin 60, Ruger 10/22 DSP, Mossberg 500 12ga, Ruger Single Six, HK USP 9mm, Kimber Eclipse Ultra .45.

What else do I need? I have covered almost all bases right? One of the first times in my life that I have actually no idea what other gun I could possibly want...

8/25/2010 11:30:03 PM

If it were me, I'd round out that setup with a revolver, probably in something big like .44 mag, .45 colt, or even .454 casull. Big bore revolvers are a lot of fun to blow shit up with, but if you're a practical man, they can present an additional challenge for hunting.

[Edited on August 26, 2010 at 12:11 AM. Reason : .]

8/26/2010 12:11:36 AM

Good idea, so long as you're set up to cast bullets and reload. Those are stupid expensive to feed, and if you're not hunting with it, you want to at least afford to shoot paper every once in a while.

8/26/2010 7:27:47 AM

To be honest, I had a S&W 66-2 4" Stainless .357 a while back. I didnt much care for it. It was a beautiful gun, but just did not strike me right.

I would love a 500S&W though...

8/26/2010 8:39:30 AM

I shot one of those the other day... I didn't have an aggressive stance and it pushed me back


I was a little embarrassed about the whole thing. Fun to shoot though

8/26/2010 9:40:25 AM

Get a 480 Ruger.
It's the intelligent man's revolver cartridge.

The 480 needs more fans.

8/26/2010 10:04:11 AM

My 'gunfighter' custom project pair completed. The AR is built from the ground up based on research, consultation with some serious expert shooters, and my own experiences in Iraq. It has a few more additions waiting, but nothing major; an Aimpoint and a Tango Down stubby grip.

The XD was the cliche of 'you never see true love until it's right in front of you'. I wanted to build a modded fighting pistol, and after a lot of thought, went with the XD. It's super reliable, accurate, and simple. It outglocks the glock. It has the trigger mod I mentioned earlier that makes it shoot like a dream. Trijicon 3-dots, Arredondo mag extenders for 20-rds of 9mm, a solid guide rod, beefier recoil spring, and extended mag release. Eventually I will get a professional hi-grip cut on the frame, and deeper checkering, but until then it's wearing bicycle inner tube for grip. Cheap and effective.



[Edited on August 26, 2010 at 9:49 PM. Reason : I'm no photographer]

8/26/2010 9:26:39 PM

I love the XD. Can we got some details on the AR as well?

8/27/2010 7:27:06 AM

Quote :

"In related news, is Rush teaching a CCW course soon?"

I've got a class on September 18 with 1 open spot left. Other than that, I'm looking at October 23rd, November 14th, and December 4th to finish out 2010.

8/27/2010 7:35:45 AM

^^Sure, I didn't want to write a big long overwhelming post at first if no one was going to give a shit.

The AR is a Rock River Lower, with an ACE Skeleton Stock, A2 size. I get the best cheek weld from a full size stock, from any firing position. I have a collapsible on my other AR, and I never use it except fully extended, and at work I only collapse when shooting with a vest.

The upper is a Del-ton custom heavy barrel. 1:9 twist so it'll stabilize both 55 and 77gr bullets well. It's got a low profile gas block, and a Viking Tactics handguard, to help average out the front weight from the barrel. The sights are Magpul, and it'll have an Aimpoint eventually. I've decided that less is more when it comes to an AR system. It doesn't need any of that fancy tac-latch or trigger-finger mag release stuff.

8/27/2010 8:16:59 AM

^Thats what I want to do to my M&P. Put a 12in FF tube and low-pro gas block. Looks sweet!

8/27/2010 8:58:11 AM

^Yeah I definitely like the free float. I was at a field test where a shooter with a regular rail system and a regular front grip was able to pull his rounds 3 inches left at 75 yards due to squeezing too hard on the front.

8/27/2010 9:02:28 AM

Quote :

" In related news, is Rush teaching a CCW course soon?"

8/27/2010 10:07:54 AM

^^^^ My 24" AR is very similar to that, and one thing I've found is that one of those fat tac-latches on the charging handle would actually be very helpful if you put a standard optic on there. With the ACE skelly stock, the eyepiece sits pretty much right over the charging handle and makes it awkward to actuate. I really like that rail that goes all the way across the top, because with my plain FF tube, I've got to use a cantilever-looking scope base to get the scope far enough away from my face to be usable.

Overall I'm diggin' that setup a lot, and would like to see what it looks like w/ optics. Is that a 20" upper on there?

[Edited on August 27, 2010 at 11:23 AM. Reason : .]

8/27/2010 11:22:49 AM

aight, heading to the tar heel state tonight

offer still on the table to bring the Pelican 1720 that way, to save someone on shipping

if anyone is interested, lemme know before 7-8pm tonight

1720 case, black, wheeled, new (dusty from being in back storage), does have uncut foam

$170, delivered (or at least able to meet within the triangle)

8/27/2010 11:27:11 AM

Sorry I missed your post Rush, I'll probably get up with you soon about the october class!

8/27/2010 1:12:12 PM

^^It's a 16 inch barrel on a 13 inch handguard. Tac-latches have their place; if you're shooting a high volume of fire, it's necessary to wear gloves, and then a tac-latch is helpful, though as you mentioned a lot can be remedied with a cantilever base.

8/27/2010 5:32:19 PM

For those with Supertucks, you might find this useful. I did not get the combat cut, and it resulted in low grips on the draw. The leather was blocking my hand from fully seating at the top of the grip. That made me fear I may get a limp-wristing failure in the heat of the moment.

I took an exacto knife to it and the combat cut worked well. The grip is much closer to being full with every draw. But the way the top of the holster folded around and molded to my hip was always the only not-quite-perfect aspect for comfort.

So I cut the the rest of the top 1/4 off it. Been carrying it that way for a few weeks, and it's more comfortable than ever. YMMV.

[Edited on August 28, 2010 at 8:58 PM. Reason : a]

8/28/2010 8:57:55 PM

^post a pic if you can please

8/29/2010 12:24:21 PM

Maximum forward cant helps for concealment for me. I don't have any pics of the intermediate stage (homemade 'combat cut' as offered on the website). But this is what I've got now - literally sliced off the entire top of it. No problems with extra shavings coming off or the edges being rough. Just used an exacto knife.

8/29/2010 5:24:52 PM

downside to that (and part of the reason that it's made that way) is that now your pistol is exposed to your skin and the sweat/oil/etc. that's on it. Depending on the finish/treatment on the pistol, that could lead to quicker/easier rusting. I had that issue with some of my early homemade holsters (Sig P226 & a 1911 that also had a fairly thing finish). You might want to keep an eye on it if you're not in the habit of keeping your slide oiled.

8/29/2010 6:23:54 PM

Anyone ever get/use a kadet adapter for their CZ? Thinking of getting one for cheap plinking ammo usage =P

8/29/2010 6:31:06 PM

^^^ glad to know you can cut it yourself and not have it fray or warp or anything. I recently received my supertuck and started practicing with it (still waiting for my CCH approval) and noticed I had to grip it low to draw it, so I was thinking about cutting the "combat cut" myself. Just wasn't sure if I would ruin it.

[Edited on August 30, 2010 at 12:49 AM. Reason : can't count]

8/30/2010 12:48:55 AM

^That was my biggest concern, but it really wasn't an issue. I thought about using something to 'seal' the ends, but it didn't need it.


^^^ is absolutely right. I shoot regularly enough that it gets cleaned and oiled consistently. If you just stuff it in your pants and shoot twice a year with it, that may be a problem.

Sometimes I also wear an undershirt tucked in under it, which gets rid of that issue. So undershirt-> holster -> pants in order. That's the most comfortable way to go, but I only really wear an undershirt when I'm in business attire, which is only once or twice a week.

Also, I've found that for a few observant (but clueless) folks, the clips themselves draw attention. Twice I've had folks ask me what they are. For better concealment if your shirt is tucked in, I can actually leave the clips undone. Clips and everything goes IWB so there is nothing visible. I wear my belts tight and my retention is minimal, so I can draw without worrying the holster will come with it. Before trying that, test it at home a lot.

[Edited on August 30, 2010 at 3:48 AM. Reason : f]

8/30/2010 3:43:56 AM

Went to the range today and had a bunch of fun.
This round wouldn't fully chamber. It also didn't want to eject.
It's factory Rem UMC. I've actually had this same thing happen with a 357 handload.

9/4/2010 11:20:50 PM

Right now, I'm winning a Gunbroker auction for a Kel-Tec P3AT.

Of course, I'm in Afghanistan right now...if I happen to win it, is there any reason that I can't just pay with my credit card, then have my mom (who has a CCP) pick it up from an FFL?

More specifically, I know I can do that. When I get home, would it be as simple as her handing the pistol over to me? I'm a FL resident, if that makes any difference (although I currently reside in NC on military orders).

9/5/2010 3:32:40 PM

^You must have a CCP or a handgun permit. If not....its a no go.

9/5/2010 4:41:23 PM

9/6/2010 4:11:31 AM

^haha, badass

9/6/2010 8:29:45 AM

Anybody know of any local places to go sight in a muzzleloader?

9/11/2010 11:18:12 AM

So how retarded am I for thinking I can install a custom hammer in my CZ 75? I'll apparently have to sand the sear some. I've done recoil spring, hammer spring, and grip changes but that's the limit of my experience. I'd like to do this myself just because I want to learn more about my gun.

9/19/2010 6:28:49 AM

Doing that properly will likely require some sort of jig. You'll have to weigh the risks of potentially destroying the part versus paying a gunsmith $50-100 to do it for you. With patience and the right tools it can be done by anyone that knows what they're doing, but there is little margin for error on parts that work on such tight tolerances.

9/19/2010 10:59:32 AM

^ that is right. for what it costs to hire it done you can't buy the jig and fubar a hammer, buy another one, test fire to make sure it doesn't go full auto. I went that route with my 1911, there are things that you just dont do easily.

9/19/2010 10:21:10 PM

^^^Have you detail stripped the 75?
It's a pretty complicated mechanism; probably the most complicated I've ever taken apart. Taking the time to make some good slave pins will save you headaches.

Doing any stoning properly does mean getting a jig. A jig will give you the correct angle and a uniform engagement surface.
Sear/hammer engagement angles are extremely sensitive. If you mess up the angle by as little as a degree you could end up with an unsafe gun, nonfunctional gun, or a very safe gun (because it has a heavy ass trigger).
If your engagement surface isn't uniform you'll end up with an inconsistent or gritty trigger pull that can end up being unsafe.

Having said that, I have done trigger jobs without jigs. It can be done if you have a steady hand, a good eye, good stones, and a very very good understanding of how the parts work with each other.
DO NOT use sandpaper or dremel. Sandpaper won't give you flat uniform surfaces. You've gotta use ceramic or diamond stones. Even the finest diamond stones are coarser than any medium ceramic, so you'll at least need one ceramic stone to finish the surface on.

If you have a steady hand, a good eye, and aren't a mechanical idiot then I say you should try it. You don't have to work on the hammer, just the sear, and a sear isn't that expensive if you screw it up.

I think you should start by installing the hammer and not messing with the sear. Check if it's safe, then decide if the hammer alone improved the trigger enough. If not, figure out what you need to do to the sear.

By the way, what specific model is the CZ?
Is it the regular DA/SA with safety, SAO, or DA/SA with decocker?

[Edited on September 20, 2010 at 1:35 AM. Reason : ]

9/20/2010 1:34:21 AM

It's an SP-01. Was planning one using some jewelers files I have from previous modeling and a vice to do the sanding. I have detail stripped it before. From what I've garnered you do the sanding so your safety actually works. Was planning on just sanding the sear since its only ~$30. Take off very small amount, put back together and check how the safety is going, etc.

9/20/2010 6:10:29 AM

Ok...I looked up what's involved with the aftermarket hammer on the CZ.
Basically you can just swap out the hammer and it may not be any lighter or smoother, but should be a shorter disengagement because the hammer hooks are shallower than stock.

I suggest you do a simple swap and see how you like it. Check and make sure the safety works.

If you do not like it, you'll have to stone or file the sear engagement so it is less positive. in other words, you'll have to make the sear surface sit flat against the hammer's hooks. If you have the parts in the gun and cock it you can actually see the engagement inside the action.
Go slowly with taking metal off. You don't need to take much off of a sear before you screw up.
once you think you're done, put the parts back in.

When you pull the trigger the hammer should move rearward a tiny bit (if you look at it now it probably moves rearward a lot).
If the hammer moves rearward it's said to be a positive engagement (a hair positive is desired). If the hammer doesnt move at all as you pull the trigger it's a neutral engaement. If it slips forward before actually releasing it's negative and that's to be avoided unless you like full auto or a trigger that won't reset.

9/20/2010 10:05:08 AM

Well parts come in tomorrow, don't know if I'll have time before the weekend but I'll update on how horribly it goes lol. Thanks for the help =)

9/21/2010 3:10:43 PM

anyone tried the fnx pistol series from browning? i told the guy at gander mountain i wanted the weight of a glock in the body of a sig, and he pulled that out. felt great to handle, but i haven't shot one yet. thoughts?

9/21/2010 6:20:53 PM

I've never shot one, but I do want to point out that sig makes polymer guns.

9/22/2010 1:04:37 AM

really? which model?

9/22/2010 7:58:43 AM

^ SP2022 you can find on occasion. Also the P250 is polymer but only has a DAO trigger if I'm not mistaken. Some people get hung up on that

9/22/2010 8:28:20 AM

^^ SP2340

9/22/2010 9:04:50 AM

Well got it all installed and everything but the safety works fine =) I over-sanded the part where the sear interacts with the safety after doing the wrong angle from being a dumbass. Realized what I did wrong and instantly ordered the $30 part so I can remedy this. Overall I feel good about my decision to do this myself as completely breaking down the gun/reassembling it 20+ times last night definitely taught me how it all works lol. At about the 17th little re-sand + assemble I realized what I had been doing wrong and tried to correct it but it was futile at that point haha. Should be nice and easy with round two =) Oh and the SA trigger pull is amazing!

9/23/2010 9:41:49 AM

Is the trigger lighter than before?
Does it have less creep?

Good luck on the second one.

9/23/2010 10:55:19 AM