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 Message Boards » » Home Ownership Woes Page 1 ... 92 93 94 95 [96] 97 98 99 100 ... 139, Prev Next  
richthofen
All American
15758 Posts
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Quote :
"Some people live in area that doesn't have gas available. Glass top is better than that stupid goddamn aggrevating coil bullshit."


Maybe it depends on the quality, but the one place I lived that had a flattop electric range royally sucked. No better heating than coils, but harder to clean and easier to break.

Give me gas any day, even the most basic low-quality beat-to-hell gas range, but in the case of electric being the only option I might take coils over glass. (I don't know enough about induction to venture an opinion there.) Though, really, I don't think I'd buy a house where there was no gas service.

1/16/2014 12:34:35 AM

skywalkr
All American
6788 Posts
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I've had all three and definitely prefer gas. I didn't mind glass though. Cleaning was a bitch but I felt like I could control the temperature much better. Basically fuck coils, I would hate being stuck with that shit.

1/16/2014 6:49:30 AM

wdprice3
BinaryBuffonary
45912 Posts
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Some of you all must be pretty inept. Glass tops aren't that hard to clean and heat up just fine. Not like gas, but just fine.

1/16/2014 8:44:30 AM

CalledToArms
All American
22025 Posts
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I think glass tops are by far the easiest to clean out of a gas range, electric coil, and glass top.

1/16/2014 9:28:52 AM

Smath74
All American
93277 Posts
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yep. I love my glass range.

1/16/2014 9:54:52 AM

rjrumfel
All American
22985 Posts
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Don't like glass...some things just need constant heat, which glass cooktops don't provide.

1/17/2014 8:41:48 PM

Kiwi
All American
38546 Posts
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When we bought our house one of the first things we did was put a gas line into the home specifically for our dual fuel stove, electric oven, gas cooktop. So much love. it's red too.

1/17/2014 9:51:20 PM

dubcaps
All American
4765 Posts
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Quote :
"Don't like glass...some things just need constant heat, which glass cooktops don't provide.
"


induction provides constant heat with a glass top.

1/17/2014 10:44:18 PM

elise
mainly potato
13090 Posts
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I'm a better cook on a gas stove. I guess because I learned to cook on one and mainly had gas stoves, but electric ranges and Elise dont mix.

1/18/2014 4:17:05 PM

wdprice3
BinaryBuffonary
45912 Posts
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Anyone know if I can keep resetting my fridge water filter without causing issues? Current one is over 1 year old, but the pressure is still fine, IMO. The change filter light came on after about 6 months of use and I reset it. Thinking of doing the same, unless someone can tell me differently? I don't know if these things have some fragile parts (booster pump, etc.) that may burn out from the slightly increased flow resistance.

Samsung french door 26 cf. Yes, Imma google it too.

[Edited on January 18, 2014 at 6:59 PM. Reason : .]

1/18/2014 6:58:47 PM

Smath74
All American
93277 Posts
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Quote :
"Don't like glass...some things just need constant heat, which glass cooktops don't provide."

i use pretty heavy cookware that holds heat well, so it has never been a problem for me.

1/18/2014 8:23:09 PM

DoubleDown
All American
9382 Posts
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Quote :
"Anyone know if I can keep resetting my fridge water filter without causing issues? Current one is over 1 year old, but the pressure is still fine, IMO. The change filter light came on after about 6 months of use and I reset it. Thinking of doing the same, unless someone can tell me differently? I don't know if these things have some fragile parts (booster pump, etc.) that may burn out from the slightly increased flow resistance. "


I had the filter in my LG french door for ~4 years without a problem. I just changed it out last week for the hell of it. Flow never changed from the old one to the new one

1/18/2014 8:32:11 PM

skywalkr
All American
6788 Posts
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So in our new house we have these built in hampers in the bathrooms and the master closet. In the one in the master closet I opened it for the first time today and noticed what looks like mold or mildew. I scrubbed it with some clorox wipes and got a good amount of it off but there are still some stains.

hamper/cabinet:



Inside before cleaning:



Inside after cleaning:



Here is the layout of the bedroom/bathroom and where the cabinet is:



In the compartment above the one in question there are no spots at all, this is the only place I have seen. Basically, is this something I should be worried about? Should I just get some mold and mildew cleaner and if it comes back then call someone out to look at it? I am wondering if someone left some damp clothes/towels in there and it just got some mold/mildew in it.

We had a plumbing test done before we bought the house and it didn't show any leaks so I feel pretty good that a leak in the pipes would not be the cause. Also, a leak in the roof seems unlikely since the upper part of the cabinet didn't have any issues. Any thoughts?

[Edited on January 20, 2014 at 9:11 PM. Reason : a]

1/20/2014 9:09:50 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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probably just moisture from being near the shower. sounds like you don't use it, so i'd put one of those damp-rid things in there and keep an eye on it

is that carpet in your bathroom or closet or both? carpet in the bathroom is fucking gross.

[Edited on January 20, 2014 at 9:22 PM. Reason : dsf]

1/20/2014 9:21:11 PM

skywalkr
All American
6788 Posts
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The carpet is in the closet tile in the bath, there is no door to the bathroom from the closet. Apparently before they remodeled the house the closet used to be connected to the rest of the bathroom though.

I should have made it more clear, the cabinet is on the closet side but I guess the back of it is close to the shower.

[Edited on January 20, 2014 at 9:28 PM. Reason : .]

1/20/2014 9:28:01 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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ok, i understand now

any space like that that doesn't get any air flow or light can potentially grow mold. you can do the damp-rid thing. if it was mine, i'd probably just pull the doors off the thing or even convert it into some shelves for shoes and such.

1/20/2014 9:56:23 PM

skywalkr
All American
6788 Posts
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That's a good idea. I don't plan on using it as a hamper at all.

I am going to get some mold remover cleaner and paint it with some kilz. In the meantime I will try the damp rid but when I can get around to it I definitely want that thing to come off.

1/20/2014 10:00:43 PM

CarZin
patent pending
10527 Posts
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Is that bathroom plaster or sheet rock? if it is sheet rock, you should replace it with a mold resistant greenboard. I forget the name of it, but it is sheet rock designed to kill mold before it starts. You'll likely battle that mold for a while.

1/21/2014 1:35:29 PM

BrickTop
All American
4508 Posts
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do you have a crawlspace with HVAC duct work? where are your vents located?

that could be a significant source of moisture.

1/22/2014 7:42:46 AM

Skack
All American
31140 Posts
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Quote :
"I am going to get some mold remover cleaner and paint it with some kilz. In the meantime I will try the damp rid but when I can get around to it I definitely want that thing to come off."


Get the folks at the hardware store to mix mildewcide into the primer/paint. It was less than a buck the one time I did it and they'll shake the paint for you so it's ready to go when you get home if you're ready to paint right away.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/WALLA-WALLA-Stay-Clean-I-E-Mildewcide-Paint-Additive-treats-1-gal-78315/202521213?cm_sp=BazVoice-_-CAT-_-ccaca115-1235-4aa1-8564-2d65277374d5-_-x

1/24/2014 4:35:19 PM

HockeyRoman
All American
11811 Posts
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So, the kitchen sink decided to become apparently stopped up. I took a plunger to it at several intervals for about 30 mins to no avail. Yes, the other side was plugged with the drain catch, and we also tried baking soda + vinegar and then boiling water. We're stumped and don't really want to call a plumber unless we absolutely have to. I don't have a snake, nor would I know how best to operate one with any proficiency. The sink drained fine before today, and all of the other drains operate just fine. Thoughts?

1/24/2014 9:46:48 PM

BobbyDigital
Thots and Prayers
41777 Posts
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did you remove the p-trap and look inside?

is there a garbage disposal on this sink?

1/24/2014 9:59:04 PM

HockeyRoman
All American
11811 Posts
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I am unfamiliar with the first thing, and there is neither a disposal nor a dishwasher.

Just looked up what the p-trap is, and no, I haven't. There is standing water in the sink, so removing it will have to be a tomorrow project.

[Edited on January 24, 2014 at 10:18 PM. Reason : .]

1/24/2014 10:16:34 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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try the Drano Max Gel

1/25/2014 10:29:34 AM

wdprice3
BinaryBuffonary
45912 Posts
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Can someone give me a quick breakdown on CFLs and/or LED flood lights? Looking for brightest possible light. I assume that wattage no longer matters since CFLs/LEDs use so little power (e.g., if I have 100w incandescent bulbs, I don't have to use a 100w equivalent, I could use a 125w equivalent, etc.). Am I just looking for bulbs with the highest lumens? Is there a clear advantage of one type for flood light use (e.g. are LEDs still very directional)? I'm leaning towards LEDs for their longevity, as I don't care to break out the ladder and climb that high every year or so.

[Edited on January 25, 2014 at 12:47 PM. Reason : .]

1/25/2014 12:46:37 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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i got tired of waiting for the CFL floods in the can lights in my kitchen to warm up. went to LEDs. love them.

1/25/2014 1:25:39 PM

lewoods
All American
3526 Posts
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If you are talking about outdoor lights, we just got a new LED one from amazon and it's really bright. Highly recommend it.

http://www.amazon.com/Security-Motion-sensing-floodlight-Commercial-Manufacturer/dp/B00847NHW4/ref=sr_1_11?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1390676280&sr=1-11&keywords=led+floodlight

1/25/2014 1:58:41 PM

wdprice3
BinaryBuffonary
45912 Posts
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^^thanks
^thanks, but I just need bulbs. But yes, outdoor flood light bulbs.

[Edited on January 26, 2014 at 6:21 PM. Reason : .]

1/26/2014 6:10:45 PM

seedless
All American
27142 Posts
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If I closed at the end of December will I get 1098?

1/28/2014 11:44:28 AM

Agent 0
All American
5677 Posts
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i just converted my entire place to LED lighting. it's really nice. power isn't really a factor, basically because you've gone from analog to digital in a sense.

ive found that the bulbs that produce "daylight" brightness are the best for sheer intensity of light, usually in the 6500K range of brightness.

most of the incandescent or halogen replacement-type bulbs in my house are in the 2700-3000K range of brightness. My bathroom doesn't have any exterior light, so I use daylight bulbs in that room, and it's super bright, and wakes me up in the AM nicely. the rest of my house is 2700K "soft white" and the kitchen is 3000K "bright white"

1/28/2014 1:03:17 PM

CalledToArms
All American
22025 Posts
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Any specific brands you are happy with? There are a few areas I have considered them.

1/28/2014 1:19:37 PM

Drovkin
All American
8438 Posts
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I have a couple of questions regarding gas logs.

If I have a vented system (flue must remain open), can the flue be closed when the fireplace is off?

I was also considering getting a blower because you basically have to sit 6 inches from the fire to feel any heat. Is that a hazard? I didn't know if only ventless could have a blower.

Also, how would you get this bottom panel off?



A lot of the instructions I've seen online say the panel should just pop off, but I see no way to get this thing off. I can't really get a screwdriver in there to pull it off, and I swear there is some type of grout or caulk around the edges.

1/28/2014 1:34:02 PM

wdprice3
BinaryBuffonary
45912 Posts
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Yes, you can close it, that's why it's there
Yes, you can have a blower on ventless, otherwise it's a useless fireplace.

1/28/2014 1:40:04 PM

Agent 0
All American
5677 Posts
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Quote :
"Any specific brands you are happy with? There are a few areas I have considered them."


Philips makes pretty much all the standard household bases. I think I went exclusively with them just because they make ALL the lights I needed, throughout the house. The only lights that are not currently LED in my house are four three-way lamps, which are difficult to use in LED applications at the moment (again, because analog v. digital). I use CFLs in those, but I don't actually like the light they produce. Will probably look to see if I can find either dimmable sockets or just simple on/off sockets to switch out so I can use the 3000K LED bulbs in them.

I tend to not like a lot of overhead lighting when its just me at home, so the lamps would be ample lighting. 6500K would probably be too bright, plus the coloring would be off compared to the rest of the house.

The bulbs are definitely expensive. The lifetimes are only theoretical for most consumers at this point. I might not actually break even on energy cost savings, but because I intend to rent this place in a few years, it will be something that I can tout to a prospective renter as one less thing to worry about...

[Edited on January 28, 2014 at 2:49 PM. Reason : .]

1/28/2014 2:46:13 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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you can put a non-three-way bulb in a three-way socket. it'll work just fine.

1/28/2014 7:21:10 PM

puck_it
All American
15446 Posts
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I think they still want three way functionality, and is indicating implementation blows right now.

1/28/2014 7:41:08 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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^that's not how i read this:

Quote :
" or just simple on/off sockets to switch out"

1/28/2014 7:51:05 PM

Drovkin
All American
8438 Posts
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Quote :
"Yes, you can close it, that's why it's there
Yes, you can have a blower on ventless, otherwise it's a useless fireplace."


I assumed it was there for the actual fireplace. The previous owner converted them to gas logs.

I also don't have ventless, I have vented. Which is why I asked about the blower.

1/28/2014 8:00:50 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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most vented gas logs are not suitable for a blower, but you can check the manual or contact a fireplace shop.

vented logs are really just decoration. they aren't even rated as a heating appliance. un-vented logs are an actual heating appliance.

1/28/2014 8:09:48 PM

Smath74
All American
93277 Posts
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unvented logs are just so damn ugly.

1/28/2014 8:27:36 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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they look about the same

my house came with Buck Stove Ember Vision 100 unvented logs like this:



i mean, gas logs in general aren't exactly beautiful. i'd much prefer to have a wood-burning fireplace, but it's nice to have an emergency heat source. mine have a remote and i end up burning them on cold evenings like tonight.

my firebox is actually rated for a real wood fire. part of me wants to rip out the gas logs and burn wood in there. i miss the wood stove i had in a previous rental house.

1/28/2014 8:51:18 PM

Smath74
All American
93277 Posts
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maybe they have improved since i shopped for them years ago, but the flames on ventless logs didn't look good (not the logs themselves)

but i agree... wood ftw. the only reason i don't burn wood is because i have a TV hanging above and i'm paranoid it would hurt it.

1/28/2014 9:15:47 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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if i didn't want real wood, then i'd say the logs i have are a good balance of aesthetics and heating function. i do need to add a blower.

1/28/2014 9:27:43 PM

Agent 0
All American
5677 Posts
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Quote :
"you can put a non-three-way bulb in a three-way socket. it'll work just fine."


Correct, but I would still prefer to switch out the sockets because I'm at times oppressively neurotic about things, plus I'd like to experiment with perhaps installing on/off dimmer switches at the socket, since most of the LED bulbs, while not 3-way capable, are mostly dimmable.

The only lights I havent been able to switch out to LED are the 120V halogen G8s under my cabinets. Might eventually just switch out the puck-style fixtures, since they make a litany of G4 base LEDs, but not G8s, presumably due to the 12V/120V difference...

[Edited on January 29, 2014 at 9:54 AM. Reason : .]

1/29/2014 9:49:10 AM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
35376 Posts
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1/29/2014 9:58:56 AM

wdprice3
BinaryBuffonary
45912 Posts
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My HOA (who is just the selling REA for my neighborhood) has a required approval process and 30-day waiting period for accessory structures, like a fence.

So 30 days ago today, I emailed the REA with my fencing plans... I never heard back from him. I know that this is something he would normally respond about, though he is bad about not responding to other emails.

Should I just carry on and build my fence, since I can now legally do so, or should I give him a call and the courtesy to make any comments which I then will take under consideration. Part of me says just build it because I fulfilled all of my obligations. On the other hand, if he see's it going up and somehow missed my email, I don't want a delay and a fight...

1/29/2014 1:15:47 PM

Wadhead1
Duke is puke
20897 Posts
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I would take the good faith path and just reach out once more. If you don't hear back again, definitely just build and have you evidence ready in case you have to fight with them.

1/29/2014 1:22:07 PM

Fry
The Stubby
7781 Posts
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i'm still bitter from a recent HOA meeting... but
send an email. don't hear back in a week, start on your project whenever you want.

1/29/2014 10:10:09 PM

hgtran
All American
9855 Posts
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I've just realized that the amount that goes toward the principal on my mortgage goes up and down each month. Is that normal? I called the bank and the woman told me it's because there are different number of days each month, but I don't think that's right. This mortgage is a fixed rate traditional mortgage. All my other mortgages, the amount that goes toward the principal goes up every month.

2/4/2014 6:53:21 PM

Str8BacardiL
************
41752 Posts
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Dont trust anything a CS rep a mortgage service r tells you.

2/4/2014 7:41:31 PM

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