I want to get my car painted, Im planning on buying the paint myself and doing a base then probably 2 coats of clear. I DONT have a grand to spend painting it.... is there anyone that works on the side around raleigh that wont break my balls??
And more importantly does a good job, i dont want it to flake off in a year.

12/25/2005 11:14:44 PM

you get what you pay for with paint

12/25/2005 11:20:03 PM

you get what you pay for with paint

12/26/2005 12:00:51 AM

Yea, everyone says that. Im not trying to get a show car finish, i just want a decent job. Call me an ass but i actually feel pretty confident i could do a damn good job myself. If i get anyone to do it i will remove every panel possible, fenders, hood, hatch, bumpers would all be removed to reduce the hassle of taping it off, not to mention it will end up better that way. I want to buy the paint and pay someone a few hundred or so to do it. I would be more than willing to help with the process of taping off and etc to cut down labor and time. Everyone tells me my rattle can jobs look like it was professionally done, so who knows i might be able to do it.

[Edited on December 26, 2005 at 12:02 AM. Reason : s]

12/26/2005 12:00:58 AM

peach?
took old blue ('86 626) to econo body and paint in charlotte. They said they would strip the paint and it would be cleaned then painted...yeah I was dumb (was when I was 17 as if that makes a difference) Not only did they not touch the oxidized paint, they did NO prep work at all except for a shotty tape job. I've heard peach does a decent job for the money but I CAN'T speak from experience with peach

12/26/2005 12:11:09 AM

Yea id be a bit worried about peach, its seems like a Maaco. Meh, i really might just buy everything and do it myself. The paint and all isnt that much, its the damn labor that kills. Its something i need to learn anyway. Anyone know what type of paint is best. Enamel, lacquer? What is the diffrence?

[Edited on December 26, 2005 at 12:58 AM. Reason : typos!!!!!!!!!!!]

12/26/2005 12:55:29 AM

base / clear is the easiest, very little post spray work to do. Build a paint booth, ventilate it properly (goooogle it) and wear a respirator. I did my cutlass when I was 15 and it still looks damn good. Practice on a panel to get the right run out and so you don't cause runs. You can do it!

12/26/2005 1:56:20 AM

Quote :

"The paint and all isnt that much, its the damn labor that kills."

Bought paint lately? The primer that I use is about 40 bucks a quart, and 30 a quart for the activator to use it. Depending on the color, base coat can cost anywhere from 40 to well over a hundred a quart. Then you have to have the hardener at around 45 a pint. The clear I use is around 40 bucks a quart, though you can get a gallon for under 140. And of course, don't forget any reducer you'll use @ 20-30 a gallon (quarts are usually pretty cheap), and lacquer thinner to clean the gun.

Unless of course you're using el cheapo shit like Dimension or Omni Gold.

Quote :

"Anyone know what type of paint is best. Enamel, lacquer? What is the diffrence?"

NOBODY uses lacquer anymore. You'll find damn few, if any, places that even carry it anymore. Everybody uses mostly urethanes now, either in single-stage or basecoat-clear form. You can still get acrylic enamel, and I still paint with it pretty often. I can even get alkyd enamel, which is dirt cheap, but doesn't perform like either acrylic or urethane.

The big difference is in the vehicle. The urethanes are all catalyzed, meaning you have to use a hardener with them to get proper performance. Acrylic enamel can be used either straight or with a hardener for extra durability and gloss. As its name implies, it uses an acrylic vehicle, as opposed to either a urethane or polyurethane. Not quite as durable.

Alkyd enamel uses a soya-based alkyd polymer as the base vehicle. It's cheap, and performs reasonably well, especially as a general purpose or utility finish, but doesn't last as long as the acrylics or urethanes.

12/26/2005 3:16:49 AM

Awesome information. Thanks.

12/26/2005 2:04:11 PM

Had my whole car repainted, and the paint alone was $800. That's just to restore the OEM color.

12/27/2005 3:56:01 AM

^how much $ do you have in that car now???

12/27/2005 4:24:03 AM

damn finally a garage thread i had info that i could post and the first reply was what i was gonna say

12/27/2005 8:39:54 AM

wal mart

12/27/2005 9:57:21 AM

Quote :

"how much $ do you have in that car now???"

Bought it for $3900 with 3k on the motor. I'm guessing I've got $2000 in the little mods I've done to it (changed the exhaust, SS brake lines, short shifter, repairing broken interior parts, new headunit, etc) + repairing the consequences of me pushing it too hard, such as drag racing with a 4 puck clutch.

I had the car repainted with insurance money due to a fender-bender. Due to a number of hookups I got a new fender, bumper, and side mirror + a pretty good full paint job with prep work for ~$2000.

[Edited on December 28, 2005 at 12:09 AM. Reason : .]

12/28/2005 12:02:54 AM

Your rear wheel bearing carrier assemblies are on the floor of my garage right now. They'll go to the press tomorrow.

arghx's car does look nice for an FC.

[Edited on December 28, 2005 at 12:08 AM. Reason : good paint.]

12/28/2005 12:08:13 AM

pic taken yesterday:

12/28/2005 12:12:43 AM

that paint looks familiar, I have a 93 323. Is it Clear white? if so, that cost 800!!!!!????

12/28/2005 5:43:59 PM

it looks shiny and new

12/29/2005 3:29:06 AM

^^ Noble White, paint code WY

I told the guy who painted my car that I didn't want some bullshit on there. If insurance was paying for it might as well not cheap out

12/29/2005 8:36:56 AM