braking system on 95 jeep grand cherokee is acting weird, had rear rotors changed and thought it was fixed but found out calipers were sticking. had the calipers changed, both rear and right front, bleed it, and thought it was fixed. nothing was wrong for like a week, it didnt feel spongy, stopping power was there and the such.
didnt drive for a week during christmas week and came back drove it and it started acting weird, the first time i depress the brake pedal, it feels spongy, but the car still stops. now the next depression of the pedal, it is tight and car stops instantly. there are time when i depress the pedal pass a certain point the brake light comes on. it goes of when i depress it again and a "cluck" sound is present. its erratic(sp?), so now issit my master cylinder is kaput or the brake booster is kaput? o ye masters of garage pls help!

1/7/2006 3:53:54 PM

11 year old car.

probably a shit load of miles.

yea id say some shit is rusted and broked

get a new car.

1/7/2006 4:07:38 PM

dosent sound like a booster

have you checked the brake fluid to see how much if any the level has gone down?

1/7/2006 4:07:52 PM

Does the pedal ever ease down while you are holding pressure on it?

1/7/2006 4:09:45 PM

sounds like to me you have a leak, check your fluid level

1/7/2006 11:56:28 PM

fluid level is always on full, im tempted to change the master cylinder but dont want to unless im sure it is the mc.
maybe i should just bring it to a shop and have them figure it out or maybe someone on here can help me out(of course there will be compensation)

1/8/2006 3:10:57 PM

Does it have ABS?

I can take a look at it fer ye.

1/8/2006 3:45:02 PM

booster.

1/9/2006 4:48:08 AM

^^ yea has abs, pm sent

1/9/2006 1:43:02 PM

^^ back that up

1/9/2006 10:02:26 PM

booster eh, it has come to a point where pumpin is needed to stop though it will stop if pedal is pressed hard till the brake light pops. i can tell that the pads are not touchin the rotors when i depressed the pedal, until pedal is pressed all the way down or pumped. this i drivin me up the arse!

1/9/2006 11:38:22 PM

thats not a fucking booster, its either a bad master cylinder or air getting in the lines from a leak somewhere

1/9/2006 11:53:41 PM

Do the '95 GC's use an active system that constantly circulates fluid? Or are they passive, like the Kelsey Hayes setups on GM trucks?

1/10/2006 12:04:28 AM

Quote :

"Front--Hydraulic, power-assisted low-drag ventilated disc brakes; composite steel; ll.2-in rotor diameter Rear--Hydraulic, power-assisted low-drag disc brakes; composite steel; 11.2-in rotor diameter Anti-lock brake system (Teves Mark IV-G) Three-channel four-wheel with four wheel speed sensors "

1/10/2006 9:56:41 AM

Quote :

"^^ back that up"

i can't. i was just going against what you said here:

Quote :

"dosent sound like a booster"

i'm just spouting random words lately.

hell my brake booster has never gone bad.

i only know that when my master cylinder was leaking internally (no exterior leaks), it wouldn't hold the pressure so that the pedal would fall to the floor when i was sitting at a light and would give sporadic braking performance.

1/10/2006 2:07:55 PM

^sounds like what im experiencing now,
so i guess i can start calling autozone/advance for a MC, and find someone to replace it for me, this is goin to be out of my league

1/10/2006 3:09:13 PM

problem is it's a jeep
my roommate and my girlfriend's parents had nothing but trouble from their grand cherokees

[Edited on January 10, 2006 at 10:37 PM. Reason : .]

1/10/2006 10:34:10 PM

when you say the brake light comes on, you mean the parkingbrake/lowfluid indicator or the ABS indicator?

1/10/2006 10:40:52 PM

^the parking brake light comes on and stays there until pedal is depressed till a certain point a "cluck" is heard

^^well this jeep has been good to me, it is about time some of the parts get replace anyways, but yea there are alot of complaints about the GCs on the NHTSA and everywhere else. we figured mine was built on a wednesday

1/10/2006 11:50:40 PM

changing a master cylinder or booster is easy....disconnect the rod from the brake pedal that comes from the back of the booster, remove the brake lines from MC, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the booster to the firewall...MC and booster come out together

1/11/2006 3:01:54 PM

^you wanna do it for me??

1/11/2006 5:44:21 PM

Just replaced one last sunday on a 1980 ford f100 custom. Part was $15 and it took all of 30 minutes to bench bleed and install the new one. Then the game came on so we're gonna bleed the system this sunday. Hopefully it gravity bled itself.

I'd do it but I'm in Charlotte.

1/11/2006 5:51:57 PM

15$?? where you sourcing the part? i called autozone and advance both quoted 59$ with 25$ core and that is remanufactured.
plus im told i need a drb2 to bleed the abs and hcu, which i dont own, so gotta outsource it
anyone wanna do it? gimme a good rate, heck ill even throw in a 6pk of mgd or guinness

1/11/2006 9:38:24 PM

Quote :

"1980 ford f100 custom"

1/11/2006 9:48:38 PM

if you bench bleed the MC right, you shouldnt have to worry about the ABS, just bleed the system normally.

1/12/2006 12:05:07 PM

^Are you sure about that?

Quote :

"15$?? where you sourcing the part? i called autozone and advance both quoted 59$ with 25$ core and that is remanufactured. plus im told i need a drb2 to bleed the abs and hcu, which i dont own, so gotta outsource it anyone wanna do it? gimme a good rate, heck ill even throw in a 6pk of mgd or guinness"

Lemme check up on this...but keep the swill...I don't drink.

1/12/2006 12:07:03 PM

Quote :

"plus im told i need a drb2 to bleed the abs and hcu, which i dont own, so gotta outsource it "

bullshit, all you need is a friend with a leg that works

[Edited on January 12, 2006 at 12:13 PM. Reason : when you get done, just bleed the left rear once, then right front]

[Edited on January 12, 2006 at 12:13 PM. Reason : after you bleed everything i mean, blah]

1/12/2006 12:12:55 PM

well if you dont put air in the system, you dont have to worry about taking it out...

1/12/2006 12:21:44 PM

got the MC from autozone for 83$.
suprisingly haynes does not cover the MC, instead it states that this job needs to be done by the dealer.

on a side note, which do you guys prefer Autozone, Advance, Carquest, Napa???
ive like autozone due to the fact that they are more organize and clean, unlike Advance
maybe its just because of the location

[Edited on January 12, 2006 at 2:33 PM. Reason : asd]

1/12/2006 2:31:16 PM

depends on who has the better part, who can get the part, who has the part in stock

1/12/2006 5:38:21 PM

Whoever has the best deal on a decent part.

A lot of the parts come from the same manufacturer...say, for example, Advance and Car Quest usually both sell Cardone reman stuff in certain lines.

You learn who to avoid and who to use through experience.

I am not a big fan of Advance's reman starters/alternators...I use Car Quest IF I can get a price worth a damn.

1/12/2006 5:45:48 PM

carolina motor parts for cv axles, walker for starters and alternators, t-hoff for engine parts, and carquest for filters and random non-critical shit

1/13/2006 7:18:50 AM

^saw a drive axle from carolina motor parts and was like who are they, now that you mentioned it, i might get stuff from them
got the MC replaced by the ways, sorry zxappeal just had to get it done soon,brakes are working and tight again just the way i like em
thanks for the info guys, fingers crossed this will solve the problem

[Edited on January 13, 2006 at 1:21 PM. Reason : asd]

1/13/2006 1:11:53 PM

is your jeep green with a busted up headlight? cause i just put a master cylinder on a 95 cherokee friday at my shop

1/15/2006 9:38:25 AM