Was wondering if anyone could tell me all the tools that I will need to change the axel. I have done it before on a civic, a while back. Now I have an accord. I know how to do it, but I don't have all the tools. I have some tools, but there are some things that I am going to have to go buy. If anyone could help me with a list, I would appreciate it.

1/14/2006 2:50:50 PM

AXLE

1/14/2006 2:53:32 PM

F R?

1/14/2006 9:04:17 PM

32mm axle nut socket.

Pry bar.

17mm socket and wrench.

14mm socket.

BFH. I don't screw with no pickle forks, though I have a bunch of 'em.

1/14/2006 9:10:54 PM

yeah you wont need a pickle fork, dont hammer on anything with threads, dan might be able to better explain

1/14/2006 9:18:08 PM

Front Right?

1/14/2006 9:55:31 PM

beer

1/14/2006 10:19:51 PM

come to think of it, last time i changed a 90-93 accord axle it was in the parking lot at my old place and i did use some beer

[Edited on January 14, 2006 at 10:22 PM. Reason : been a while]

1/14/2006 10:22:00 PM

I have a 17 and 14, and can use something as a pry bar. It is the front right. I don't remember it being too hard to change on the civic. Anyone have a 32 mm I could borrow that fits a 1/2 drive? And I will have to use grease on the end that goes in the tran right?

1/15/2006 12:49:14 AM

if 32 dont fit. its a 36mm. the late 90s and up are 36mm

1/15/2006 12:58:52 AM

Oh yeah... And I have this problem also. The car will crank ok, takes a few turnovers, say about 6 seconds to start which is too long. When it does run it will run fine. It idles low sometimes, but it's steady. I cannot get past 4100 rpm if I ease it up there or if I just floor it.

What I mean by I cannot get past it is, when it gets there it sputters almost like those things people at car shows put on their car to let them rev it weird. The only difference is that when I floor it there is a more open sound but that's because it is open more.

I have tried to run all the old gas out mixed with new and fuel injection cleaner, then put about 5 gallons of higher octane gas in. Then put alchohol in to see if I could get the water out. Still does it.

Tomorrow I will try and put on a new fuel filter. I'm wondering if it is something electrical. I bought this car reall cheap and I'm restoring it the best I can, this girl I bought it from treated it like shit, but it's only got 150,--- on it and it's in fair condition.

Any Suggestion On That As Well

1/15/2006 1:07:53 AM

You need to bring it by the hizzle...I swap most CV shafts for 30 a pop. That way, you don't have to waste a lot of time rounding up tools.

That and I have the socket AND an air compressor.

1/15/2006 2:56:01 AM

not only that, but if it is the passenger side one, there is a good chace the bearing is rusted in the mount, i have had a few where i had to pull the whole damn bearing/engine mount bracket out a heat the bejesus out of it in a press to get the bearing out

1/15/2006 9:03:19 AM

That 32 mm socket can be a bitch to find. I helped a friend change a clutch in his Eclipse and we must have gone to six stores in North Raleigh before we found one.

1/15/2006 9:20:42 AM

1 1/4" niggers

1/15/2006 10:58:32 AM

^^ shit, i rolled to autozone and picked one up. they had them in stock. but this was like 2 years ago.

im sure they still have them.

1/15/2006 11:41:34 AM

Quote :

"those things people at car shows put on their car to let them rev it weird."

wtf. can one of you NGRs explain what the hell he's talking about there? a whistle tip?

1/15/2006 12:46:00 PM

I have no earthly idea. Sounds like a stutterbox rev limiter. Why in blue fuck would anybody do this for show, though?

I'm reasonably sure that the Hondas aren't set up to limit revs in neutral or park like a lot of the GM cars are...

I can plant my foot firmly and hit 7.5k on the tach in the Teg...and watch the needle bounce as fuel cutoff occurs...is this what you're doing?

1/15/2006 1:15:35 PM

I've heard one of those "stutterbox" things... I'd never have a use for one though. Best way for me to explain what the car does.


...and zxappeal, may do that, I'll let you know, it would be several days from now though.

1/15/2006 1:35:47 PM

Quote :

"when it gets there it sputters almost like those things people at car shows put on their car to let them rev it weird."

those people are called ricers.........and idiots. that thing you're talking about comes from the factory. its called a rev limiter.

1/15/2006 1:42:15 PM

Now that we have that cleared up, does anyone know why it would do that own it's own. Plugs, Distributer cap, wires, bad gas, fuel pump, fuel filter???

The check engine light comes on, and I can reset it with the little keyhole in the guage panel, but it will come right back on. I need to get this fixed on a very low budget because I will need be driving it within a week. Does anyone know how to get it to blink the codes -and- what the codes mean? This may help me out a lot.

1/15/2006 3:23:41 PM

there is a blue plug near the passenger side kick panel under the dash, jump it with a paper clip and turn the key on. it will give you a series of flashes. a few quick ones, a pause, a few quick ones, a pause, etc. write down each number of quick flashes, ie. 2,4,3, and post them, i'm not gonna post all the codes, and just drop about $60 and tune the damn thing up, plugs wires, cap, rotor, fuel and air filter.

[Edited on January 15, 2006 at 3:35 PM. Reason : the only way to reset it is to pull the ecm fuse #2 for 5 seconds]

1/15/2006 3:34:11 PM

^make sure it's the blue plug with TWO conductors and not the three-conductor one.

1/15/2006 3:53:08 PM

Thanks. That worked like a charm. The codes are 4 and then 8 and then they just repeat 4,8,4,8 so I guess that's it.

1/15/2006 3:57:04 PM

Now here's the question...are the two separated by two or three seconds, or are they separated by a good long pause, like 5 seconds or longer?

Code 48 is an oxygen sensor code, and is pretty common...won't cause any serious driveability problems.

[Edited on January 15, 2006 at 4:04 PM. Reason : more info.]

1/15/2006 4:04:04 PM

o2 sensor code probably tripped by him fucking with the fuel system

1/15/2006 4:06:42 PM

It was a shorter pause between the 4 and the 8 than it was before it started over. The only thing I have done to the fuel system is put additives in it. I was outside just now about to change the fuel filter becuase it needs to be done. It's been doing this since the day I bought it. I will check the code again and see exactly the pause timing.

1/15/2006 4:29:39 PM

It's definitely 4 flashes, 3 seconds, 8 flashes, 3 seconds, 4 flashes, 3 seconds, 8 flashes and on and on

1/15/2006 4:55:24 PM

I appreciate the help on the codes you guys... Is it possible that a bad o2 sensor could make the car start stuttering at a little over 4000 rpm. In park or while driving? I took a look down at the manifold, is it under the heat shield?

1/15/2006 6:17:55 PM

definately, i would try that first, if optmusprimer is right on that code, i'd have to check it at work tomorrow, or try googling it. a 150,000 mile car could use a new O2 sensor anyway

[Edited on January 15, 2006 at 7:59 PM. Reason : it is a lean condition code, i'd replace that upstream O2 sensor, and go from there]

1/15/2006 7:54:15 PM

how many 02 sensors do you think a 93 accord have?

jamerson dont worry the 02 isnt likely the cause of this, youre on the right track with the fuel filter methinks. i assume youve checked/replaced the air filter?

1/15/2006 9:29:36 PM

i dunno what the hell i'm thinking, but it is an easy one to get to, right on the front of the exhaust manifold, but if not that, then it is probably gonna be water in the tank or a bad fuel pump, either way, the sensor wouldn't cause all those problems. the slow starting and rough running problems tend to make me think he is in need of a fuel pump, but thats also something i think he could manage.

next time you start the car, crank it for a second, cut the key off, then cut it on for about three seconds and try to start it. if it starts right up, then you are gonna need a fuel pump.

1/15/2006 9:48:53 PM

The girl that owned this car before I bought it, treated it like SHIT. Every fluid was low, hadn't ran in about 6 months, there was shit on the inside that looked like she was living in it.
I took the air filter out and it was greasy and black???
The oil is dark black.
Every other fluid was low.
I wouldn't stay charged.

Fixed the charging issue. Topped off all the fluids. Checked all the fuses. I have just gotten back from Prague from a 30 day trip and haven't gotten around to the oil change or the plugs. I am going to get new plugs for it tomorrow and I will be actually changing the gas filter. If the plugs and gas filter don't help this then I'm going to be lost.

This car has 150,000 miles on it, but it's in great shape other than these things I mentioned.

1/15/2006 9:59:04 PM

shit $30 is damn good labor rates

1/15/2006 10:47:45 PM

That's my usual rate to swap a CV axle. If I have to add fluid, that costs you extra.

So in this case, about 32 bucks total, maybe 35 MAX.

It would be more if I hadn't done 'em so much and if it took longer.

1/15/2006 11:31:08 PM

check for vacuum leaks, even a tiny one will cripple that car from what I've seen.

1/16/2006 5:38:59 AM

^ stick your penis in the tailpipe, that may help

1/16/2006 2:17:37 PM

That's what clogged it in the first place though...

1/16/2006 2:45:07 PM

Tried that already... DIDN'T work! Putting fuel filter on today and possibly going to get new plugs. Will post later what results.

1/16/2006 3:12:10 PM

Still not working...

Do any of you guys know anyone that has a 93 accord that is willing to sell parts off of?

1/20/2006 12:58:21 AM

fuel filter didn't work eh, that sucks.

timing belt and other belts? b/c you don't know the service history.

oil change and quick flush solvent (gunk 5 min engine flush).

then new oil?

and finally...

i don't know much about cars but: fuel injectors or fuel pump?

1/20/2006 2:50:59 AM

Have you checked the ignition timing?

Check to see if you have a restriction in the air intake. When I put a part on my last car I ended up accidently smashing the air intake when putting it all back to gether. It ran fine at low speeds but when the rpm's got high it struggled. You probably have a dead rat living in yours or something. Esp if it sat for so long.

Seafoam that shit too.

She firing on all cylinders?

[Edited on January 20, 2006 at 6:31 AM. Reason : S]

1/20/2006 6:27:32 AM

how about the MAF? or CAS. I mean it sounds like the problem gets worse with rpm, maybe one of those sensors is loose or damaged. The MAF would make the most sense, but maybe the baro sensor? I don't know much about honda engine management

1/20/2006 8:25:06 AM

could have jumped time i guess, but thats past the noob area of ability

1/20/2006 8:34:30 AM

Ten bucks says that the inside of that distributor cap looks like fart dust, and the little carbon button is all but gone.

1/20/2006 9:11:06 AM

and its got liquid

1/20/2006 10:31:30 AM

Put new plugs, new fuel filter, changed oil and filter and flushed it with oil before adding final. Have taken the air intake all the way off up to the fuel injection and still 3500 rpm max in park or on the road. Old spark plugs center pieces were worn all the way down. What is an MAF and CAS and also, I will check the carbon button in the distributor cap. Gas is good in the car now.

1/20/2006 2:11:41 PM

MAF is the mass air flow sensor that's right behind your air filter, it measures the amount of air coming in to pump an according amount of fuel. if your plugs look like the car's been running funky fuel mixtures, it might be the culprit, but it's just as likely your o2 sensor (since you got the check engine code). CAS is your cam angle sensor or crank angle sensor, used to help the ecu set timing advance. if either of those were messed up, your car would hardly be driveable if at all.

1/20/2006 2:21:16 PM

I don't believe that car has a MAF sensor.

1/20/2006 3:29:06 PM

Quote :

"Ten bucks says that the inside of that distributor cap looks like fart dust, and the little carbon button is all but gone."

strong possibility

that car has a map sensor, but they dont really go bad. at least not that ive heard of. coolant temp sensor wouldnt be governing it like that, and neither would the 02.

[Edited on January 20, 2006 at 7:13 PM. Reason : no crank sensor, no cam sensor. its got a hall-effect distributor.]

1/20/2006 7:12:35 PM