So, I don't feel like searching, anyway I can get the codes without taking it somewhere to hook it up to a scanner?

1/25/2006 12:28:55 AM

oh one of you fockers knows this, answer me damnit

1/25/2006 2:06:03 AM

go to autozone or advance auto parts and have them scan it for you. Its free and they are helpful. prolly need OBD I, but may have to check as 95 is when they switched to OBD II and some 95 cars made late could have it, but don't quote me on this.

[Edited on January 25, 2006 at 2:45 AM. Reason : ]

1/25/2006 2:45:07 AM

95s are sorta obd1.5...may be odbI but require an obdII adapter on the connector

1/25/2006 7:05:40 AM

look at the sticker under the hood

1/25/2006 7:44:24 AM

^^ what? It's either OBD-II or it isn't. If it has the OBD-II data link connector, it is OBD-II. 96 was the year everything had to be OBD-II, some cars got it earlier than the deadline.

1/25/2006 7:59:20 AM

Ive seen some cars with the OBDII connector that couldnt be read with a OBDII handheld Snap-On MT2500 because they werent fully OBDII.

1/25/2006 8:20:09 AM

^ 95 fbody's were an example of that, btw

1/25/2006 9:55:32 AM

Quote :

"what? It's either OBD-II or it isn't. If it has the OBD-II data link connector, it is OBD-II. 96 was the year everything had to be OBD-II, some cars got it earlier than the deadline"

very very wrong actually... 95 fbody's were completely odbI but had the obdII connector for some reason, which i already said but i'll say it again

1/25/2006 10:00:09 AM

just get it scanned. dsm's dont have another way to detect what code its giving without the CEL scanned. I know other cars had a way where normal problems could be easily read from a series of blinks from the CEL light. I know nissan had it, but i'm 90% positive that 2g's dont have anything like that.

1/25/2006 10:37:41 AM

cool, that's all i was wanting to know

one more question... is there anyway to FORCE it to stay into whichever loop (open or closed) it is in when it's cold?

It's really almost impossible to drive after it warms up it's cutting out, stuttering and bucking so bad. I unplugged the MAF to see if that was the problem since I had that happen on a VR4 one time but that didn't help. I'll take a better look at it today, I couldn't see much last night in the dark at midnight... thanks

1/25/2006 10:49:27 AM

http://www.vfaq.com

1/25/2006 10:57:05 AM

a specific answer would've been nice since I have so much work to do today...but yeah I'll search thru that later

1/25/2006 11:10:46 AM

I stand corrected on my statement about having the OBD-II port and being OBD-II. But if that's the case, it's not OBD-II (nor is there a 1.5; There was no intermediary). I think Ford did that on some of their vehicles as well, where they wired an OBD-II port but didn't have an OBD-II computer.

1/25/2006 2:16:54 PM

yeah...that's pretty much the case. i think mitubishi did some weird shit for a few years but i really can't remember enough from my 3000GT days to say anything for sure... I remember 91-93's were easy to datalog but newer ones were more difficult with varying degree

1/25/2006 2:46:47 PM

Quote :

"one more question... is there anyway to FORCE it to stay into whichever loop (open or closed)"

many vehicles will stay cool enough to keep it in open loop if you yank the t-stat out, especially in the winter.

1/25/2006 3:01:21 PM

Disconnecting the O2 sensor will always keep it in open loop

1/25/2006 3:10:51 PM

good call, forgot about that.

1/25/2006 3:14:32 PM

Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon were OBDII compliant in 95.

you could buy my pocket logger

1/25/2006 4:18:34 PM

or you can borrow my pocket logger (assuming i can find the damn thing).

1/25/2006 4:19:51 PM

awesome.. I'll unhook the 02 sensor and see how she blows. Lemme know if you can find that logger Ivan

1/25/2006 4:42:48 PM

the logger won't work on a 95+

[Edited on January 25, 2006 at 5:03 PM. Reason : http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/]

1/25/2006 4:59:07 PM

sounds like it could be a bad coolant temp sensor

1/25/2006 5:05:16 PM

Quote :

"I stand corrected on my statement about having the OBD-II port and being OBD-II. But if that's the case, it's not OBD-II (nor is there a 1.5; There was no intermediary). I think Ford did that on some of their vehicles as well, where they wired an OBD-II port but didn't have an OBD-II computer."

Quote :

"95s are sorta obd1.5...may be odbI but require an obdII adapter on the connector"

nowhere there does it say theres such thing as OBD1.5, or that it is OBDII if it has the connector for OBDII

there were some 95 cars that werent fully OBDII, but moreso transistional system, and this causes problems with tuning and some performance upgrades

one example off the top of my head were a couple of the 95 chevy beretta models

Quote :

"It's really almost impossible to drive after it warms up it's cutting out, stuttering and bucking so bad. I unplugged the MAF to see if that was the problem since I had that happen on a VR4 one time but that didn't help. I'll take a better look at it today, I couldn't see much last night in the dark at midnight... thanks"

godamn...that describes the same symptoms that've been bothering me for like the past 8 months and almost $400 worth of throwing new parts at it

tried unplugging the O2 sensor a long while back with no result



[Edited on January 25, 2006 at 5:25 PM. Reason : the problem]

[Edited on January 25, 2006 at 5:26 PM. Reason : fuck]

1/25/2006 5:20:49 PM

Quote :

"sounds like it could be a bad coolant temp sensor"

its a complete night and day difference all at once as it's warming up... doesn't sound like a coolant temp sensor to me since i've ran a few cars with one unplugged that ran better than this thing does, but i'll look into it

1/25/2006 5:32:49 PM

Quote :

"nowhere there does it say theres such thing as OBD1.5, or that it is OBDII if it has the connector for OBDII"

They aren't even "sorta OBD1.5". I made the correction on the obdii connector but you must have missed it.

Quote :

"this causes problems with tuning and some performance upgrades one example off the top of my head were a couple of the 95 chevy beretta models"

a 95 beretta is my first choice for performance upgrades and tuning

1/25/2006 9:38:22 PM

[Edited on January 25, 2006 at 10:47 PM. Reason : fuck it]

1/25/2006 10:40:37 PM

Quote :

"doesn't sound like a coolant temp sensor to me since i've ran a few cars with one unplugged that ran better than this thing does, but i'll look into it"

thats DEFINITELY the right way to diagnose a bad temp sensor

1/25/2006 10:48:05 PM

to get the codes. insert key in igntion and turn to on postion then back to the off position 4 times real fast. The ecu will then flash the code to you, by flashing the CEL. 5 flashes pause then 5 more flashes is code 55 (which means end of codes)

1/26/2006 12:18:04 PM

Quote :

"a 95 beretta is my first choice for performance upgrades and tuning"

I thought someone made a batmobile out of one of em?

1/26/2006 8:09:02 PM

i think its parked up the road from me

1/26/2006 10:18:54 PM

So basically you're trying to say its a bad temp sensor...but the engine wouldn't switch from open to closed loop without a temp sensor working at least halfway correctly. I guess I'm guessing at the fact that it's even doing that since I have no way of datalogging, but I really don't have much other way of diagnosing such a consistent night/day difference everytime at around the same temperature. Do you?

1/26/2006 11:09:41 PM

i dunno, maybe... ohmmeter, stove, pot, water, sensor

or, find someone with a REAL scantool, or maybe some handheld or laptop that will show realtime data. watch the ECT temp value, if it goes beserk then there you go.

it could be lots of things man, but when you have to guess wildly you start at the bottom. if its setting a code, scan it and go from there.

1/26/2006 11:24:42 PM

new problem: he lost his car keys

1/27/2006 1:51:30 AM