First off this is not a safety question I know how to properly store my guns. the question is will the modern pistol rust and be damaged from storage in a safe. how improtant is a dehumidifier (which i have). also, parts and stuff dont go bad if the gun isnt being used and it isnt chambered, i mean it can sit there forever basically without a need to change parts as long as they are kept clean right.

2/16/2006 3:14:39 PM

Clean it and keep a light coat of oil on it. If you are looking at a really long time, get some cosmoline.

No, nothing is going to "go bad."

2/16/2006 3:19:12 PM

put some of that silica gel or whatever its called in there thats absorbs moisture, i think you can dry it out in the oven when it gets wet. and keep oil on it.

2/16/2006 6:50:03 PM

How long are you storing them?

2/16/2006 7:05:18 PM

Long term storage I would lube it up real good, but just for a year or 2, silica balls that are ment for a safe work fine. A dehumidifier is a plus but just the silica alone will get rid of all the moisture.

All you need right here

http://www.shootersmart.com/site/Library/display/?prodid=33413&a=GUN%20STORAGE&b=GUN%20SAFES/ACCESSORIES&c=



[Edited on February 16, 2006 at 7:12 PM. Reason : 1]

2/16/2006 7:07:57 PM

these folks have answered your question, but I would like to send a word to the wise- do not store guns in cases. I see people do this a lot and due to moisture buildup from heating and cooling, it will inevitably cause surface rust

2/16/2006 8:18:23 PM

I store all my long guns in cases and have never had a problem, but they are always in a dry place and are always oiled. Othewise it's not a good idea.

The silica dessicant is a good idea.

Quote :

"also, parts and stuff dont go bad if the gun isnt being used and it isnt chambered, i mean it can sit there forever basically without a need to change parts as long as they are kept clean right."

Springs can go bad, but it's not common.
The most often overworked springs are mag springs, but even then it'd have to be a mag stored loaded for years.
I wouldn't worry too much about it, just don't store auto pistols with the slide back and if you keep loaded mags don't store them at full capacity.

2/17/2006 2:49:31 AM

yeah i clean and keep a light coat of oil on my guns and wipe them with silicone rags every couple of months or so, i also have the small silica gel thing in my safe an might eventually get the bigger one. but basically my question is even in bad conditions a glock or springfield xd is most likely pretty resistant to rust, wear and tear and other elements right?

2/17/2006 4:35:51 AM

damn man, just stop being a faggot

2/17/2006 8:10:40 AM

Your guns aren't going to rust.

2/17/2006 8:33:28 PM

Quote :

"but basically my question is even in bad conditions a glock or springfield xd is most likely pretty resistant to rust, wear and tear and other elements right? "

http://www.glocktalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=462537

2/17/2006 9:33:24 PM

wow, thats crazy. i knew glocks were reliable though...thats why i like them. now alls i want to do is replace the slide springs from the factory model to the ouped up, stronger, recoil reducing ones. i already did this for my glock17 9mm. but i still need to do it for my 30 and 36. something about a plastic guide rod for a slide spring pisses me off

2/18/2006 3:13:07 AM

i like how reliable glocks are, but it's too bad they don't feel very good in my hands.

2/18/2006 2:02:34 PM

I have shot glocks, They may be reliable, they may be easy tio take care of, but they just dont point where i look when i bring them up.
The opne gun i hasve played with that points where i look every time is the full size frame 1911 typ[es, of which the one i have shot the most is an old Colt Combat Commander in 38 Super. Nothing like loading handloads so hot that, in order to use a stock barrel, you have to use cut down .223 brass so that the brass does not split where it is unsupoted at the back.

2/18/2006 5:24:36 PM

that sounds like a good way to beat the shit out of a frame or shear barrel lugs. what weight spring are you using?

2/18/2006 7:44:52 PM

go to a shoe store and steal all the silica gel packets.

2/18/2006 10:53:35 PM

bottom of lake johnson

2/20/2006 10:05:44 AM

Quote :

"The opne gun i hasve played with that points where i look every time is the full size frame 1911 typ[es, of which the one i have shot the most is an old Colt Combat Commander in 38 Super. Nothing like loading handloads so hot that, in order to use a stock barrel, you have to use cut down .223 brass so that the brass does not split where it is unsupoted at the back."

Did you type that when you were drunk?

If you shot trimmed 223Rem brass in a 38 Super you'd split the brass for the simple fact that the 38 Super is a fatter cartridge.
The 223 case isn't wide enough for a 355 bullet either.

2/20/2006 11:54:33 PM

Well, I have cut the cases down before, I have used the correct die as well to expand the case. A .223 case has a stronger side wall at the base than standard 38 super cases, and its cheaper to turn military leftover brass into cases than to buy 38 super +P brass, even from starline or another wholesale place. On a factory 1911 style barrel, the lower rear of the case wall is left exposed, when loaded hot with non +p brass, it will split the case in this area 99% of the time.

And i typed the earlier post while sober but tired. A .38 super is a fun gun, as they can be loaded with loght loads as a fun target gun, or loaded up heavy for competitions or the like. Take a look at some of the max value rounds peole are shooting in full support barrels in a .38 super. You canot go that far with a stock barrel, but you can go far enough that I would rather shoot a .357 mag than shoot the super when loaded hot.

2/21/2006 6:40:19 AM

What powder do you load the 223/38 super cases with?

Do you get less velocity because of the decreased capacity?

2/21/2006 7:40:54 PM

You do lose some capacity, however you can make up for it with some of the faster powders by using a compressed powder charge. Its fun when the poder already fills the case before inserting the bullet. Red/blue/green dot are all good powders to play with in the .38 super. we normally load red dot these days in the target loads. We have not shot up the last batch of hot loads, and it was loaded almost 5 years back. You will prbably have to go to a small rifle prmer instead of a pistol primer if you laod it hot, as well as to ensure proper ignition of a compressed load in a reduced capacity case. with a heavy case, liek a 38 super +p case, or the cut down .223 cases, and a full support barrel the super cna be laoded to ungodly presures. the super still works as a good drop in conversion to take a 45 and turn it into somehting with more penetration on hard targets. Especialy with fmj loads, the super has an amazing amount of penetration. http://home.columbus.rr.com/jmaass/documents/hl38sup.pdf
lists some of the very high preasure loadings for the super. those loads are for reaching the major number for ipsc competitions, and to quote them

Quote :

"These lists have been gathered from a variety of published and unpublished sources, and have been reported as safe in modern firearms of the types used in IPSC competitions. Every gun is different, and you are responsible to use common sense and safe load development techniques in working up to a good load for your own use. The .38 Super and 9x21 loads, in particular, are only safe in firearms with barrels that fully support the case, which generally includes only custom-built guns. The specific needs of the IPSC shooter require that loads used will exceed the pressure limits set by SAAMI and CIP, and these loads are not to be used by the casual reloader! The lowering of the IPSC Major power factor from 175,000 to 165,000 does not change this: these are still high-pressure loads!"

some of the rounds listed are using over 10 grains of powder behind a 115 grain bullet, yeilding a 1600 fps 38 super round.

2/22/2006 1:24:24 AM