I mean i know what i need as far as equipment etc.

but who's amps are recommended ?
who's speakers?
and i can make a box but i don't know if i will.

i know i need an install kit etc...

I like jl but everyone who sells them i get the "i'm trying to fuck you" vibe

i'm not looking to rattle my brains i just want a nice clear baseline
no ported or bandpass big boom sloppyness here.

Suggestions?

5/17/2006 1:02:33 AM

not to give you the "I'm trying to fuck you" vibe, but I got a pair of JL audio subs if your interested. Never got around to installing it in the eclipse.

5/17/2006 1:32:55 AM

I've got a pair of Orion 12" subs in a box with an orion CS150.2 amp and a 1 farad capacitor if you're interested

5/17/2006 7:50:16 AM

^^ what kind of JL's?

how much a piece?

5/17/2006 9:00:19 AM

Quote :

"no ported or bandpass big boom sloppyness here."

Haha, come listen to my ported 10w3 and swear that you are hearing a 15 back there.

5/17/2006 9:12:35 AM

adire koda

current Edesign stuff is supposed to be good, i've only had experience with the older flat cone subs though

Infinity perfect VQ's are highly recommended as well

5/17/2006 9:25:39 AM

no thanks on the orions

i appreciate it though my roomate had some and the rubber around the outside got all crustyfied and eventually turned into a big dust cloud in the back

5/17/2006 11:23:15 AM

If you are looking for high sq that can get loud, look at the JL w6 line.
You could also do something like 2 10w3.
Adire, A/D/S, Brahma all make good subs as well.

JL amps are great, so are zapco and the punch series Rockford fosgate are decent.

There are a ton of companies that make good speakers. I would say you need components for sure, but the brand is up to your personal preference.

5/17/2006 11:59:48 AM

alpine?

i'm looking for clarity more than boom!

i only have 25 watts rms going to the rest
and i don't want that over powered.

5/17/2006 12:35:51 PM

One 10 is all you need.

[Edited on May 17, 2006 at 12:59 PM. Reason : Brahma [is]is[/i] Adire, or rather an Adire sub, durr.]

5/17/2006 12:54:41 PM

if u're interested i've got an infinity 10" sub w/ a sealed box and an old school rockford punch 45 to go w. it for $100. tryin to get rid of some oof the stock piled audio i got.

5/17/2006 5:37:03 PM

Third thang dog, man your trunk gotta knock
So they hear ya ten seconds, 'fore you come around the block

5/17/2006 5:43:00 PM

I have a JL Audio 10w6 sitting here if you are interested. Dual 3 ohm VC, 400W RMS.
Looking for $130 for it.

5/17/2006 6:32:16 PM

jl audio makes good stuff, expensive though.

5/18/2006 1:22:50 AM

Quote :

"Dual 3 ohm VC"

How do you propose he wire this?

5/18/2006 9:54:45 AM

down to 1.5 ohms if his amp can handle it, he would get the most power that way

5/18/2006 1:11:05 PM

It was more of a "3ohm dvc drivers are stupid" question because there aren't many (any?) small amps out there that can drive a 1.5 ohm load bridged. Running it in 6 ohm isn't too bad if he has a nice strong amp, but if he is going to be buying stuff all new, then it makes since to get amps and subs that were meant for each other unless you can get the other stuff for a deal, and $130 for a used probably several years old 10w6 isn't a deal.

[Edited on May 18, 2006 at 1:51 PM. Reason : x]

5/18/2006 1:50:51 PM

I'm not positive but I think the 10w6 is a Dual 6 ohm VC. So it can be wired in parallel to give a 3 ohm resistance. Not completely sure on this but the W7 is a 3ohm sub.

[Edited on May 18, 2006 at 2:48 PM. Reason : ,]

5/18/2006 2:48:09 PM

Without googling, I think you are right, because I remember they were meant to be put in triples...3 12ohm loads in parallel is indeed 4ohms.

Still, bridged into 3 ohms isn't amplifier friendly for an average priced amp, and 12ohms is just too high.

5/18/2006 3:01:07 PM

i got a jl 500/1 amp so its 500 watts from 1.5-4 ohms now i just need to pick the right speaker(s)
i'm thinking 12w6v2 but i really have no idea... toss some input if ya have any.

5/24/2006 10:22:59 PM

the 12W6V2 will be perfect for the 500/1

5/24/2006 10:57:17 PM

or dual 12w3v2's will work good too.

5/24/2006 11:50:09 PM

Quote :

"i'm not looking to rattle my brains i just want a nice clear baseline"

You could have gotten by with a much smaller amp, but it's good that you have a lot of clean power avail (500w). In this case, the 12w6 will work nicely, but it will be more base than you'll realistically need. At this point, I'd decide on how much space you want to devote to the sub enclosure. If you have plenty avail, then go with the 12, and any time you want to show off to your buddies that you can modulate their voice with your sub, you'll be able to. Otherwise, a 10 will suit you.

5/26/2006 10:26:59 AM

chance's jeep goes THUMP TSST THUMP TSST THUMP TSST THUMP TSST THUMP TSST

5/26/2006 10:35:37 AM

^^bass not base diggity.

5/26/2006 10:37:28 AM

well i got the amp for one heck of a good deal so i went for it.
and i just think it would be funny to pull up next to ghetto fabulous and
out bump them w/ like bloodhound gang or something

basically i made myself get a big speaker because i got too much amp on a good deal and i don't want to be able to blow my speaker

5/26/2006 2:43:41 PM

if u already got the amp go with the w6, many people argue it's the best sounding sub they've ever heard. it should get loud enough for you and still give you the clean sound you want. that amp would be perfect for it and leave u a bit of headroom, plus it's always nice to have everything all 1 brand .

5/26/2006 3:48:38 PM

yeah at some point i'm planning on getting the matching 4channel
300/4 so which will be awesome cause its physically the same dimensions

if i'm planning on getting a second amp too should i buy a dual amp wireing kit now or ?

5/26/2006 3:57:52 PM

not really sure what dual kit you are looking at , but go ahead and get it so u won't have to run another set of wires. just make sure the kit has at least 4 gauge power wire and u should be set.

5/26/2006 4:11:37 PM

its 2 gauge to the block then 4 to the amps
(also jl)

5/26/2006 4:13:15 PM

subs: rockford fosgate or jl audio
mids: pioneer
amp: alpine
headunit: alpine or pioneer
box: 1/2" or 1/4" mdf board

5/26/2006 6:50:54 PM

wow... completely not what i'm doing cept maybe the jl subs
i noticed all the alpine amps at best buy have a drone to them
i've heard 3/4 mdf is the way to go
i already have my head unit, its a kenwood and i love it
my door speakers are polk db 650s
i'll probably end up with jl audio stuff from here out.

5/26/2006 7:10:46 PM

yeah, seriously hit up MaximaDrvr with that jl audio w6 sub.

[Edited on May 26, 2006 at 7:59 PM. Reason : ]

5/26/2006 7:59:16 PM

yea definitely build your box out of nothing less than 3/4" MDF if your getting the W6... Im doing a W6 with a 500/1 and also a 300/4 with the JL 6.5" components Evolution ZRs.. all fiberglass with custom kicks... running off the alpine CDA-9856... this system is awesome and that is just the headunit powering the components... I havent finished the box for the amps and sub yet.... So you are definitely heading in the right direction....

5/27/2006 12:23:31 AM

Yeah i've seen some boxes for higher powered subs with double 3/4" mdf on the sub mounting surface.
i was thinking about doing that

5/27/2006 12:31:29 AM

^ 3/4" in min. but if your competing or just want a solid box, 2 layers aint gonna hurt. I've seen 5 or 6 layers, but that was for 2 18's with over 50,000 watts to each

5/27/2006 2:25:04 AM

for a w6 and 500w u should be good with single 3/4". just make sure u brace the box.

5/27/2006 10:19:39 AM

MTX
Rockford Fosgate
Alpine
Kicker (Comp.)

Stay away from Pioneer (from my experience anyway.)

5/27/2006 12:19:31 PM

Pioneer Premier Subs hold great power for the price.
Rockford Amps are god b/c they are underated
I have this setup with 2 12's and and 1800 watts and i have never had a problem.

5/27/2006 12:37:42 PM

where would one find carpet for a box
or are there any other suggested coatings
how hard would it be to make a fiberglass box and how much $$ would you guestimate

5/27/2006 12:41:13 PM

for the first box ever, you will probably spend about $100 to make a fiberglass box, depending on size and many other variables, but that is an estimate.
Fiberglass isn't that difficult if you are patient and take your time. You can prep the hell out of it and paint it, cover it in vinyl, or cover it in carpet.
You can order carpet online, or there is a place here in raleigh but I don't know where.

5/27/2006 9:34:36 PM

^^^^pioneer's regular stuff isn't anything special, but decent for the $ . their premier stuff is prettty damn good though, i've seen birth sheets from some of the amps and alot of them put out double their rated power.

the best place to get box building suplies(carpert , terminals, etc.) in my expirience is partsexpress.com great customer service , low prices and fast shipping.

5/27/2006 11:19:55 PM

Quote :

"but that was for 2 18's with over 50,000 watts to each"

Which sub was this that could handle 50,000 watts?

5/28/2006 7:35:29 AM

for your general sub installation, you don't need 3/4" mdf. 1/2" mdf would be sufficient and lighter (if you're that anal about weight, like i am). screws and braces will hold that shit together. btw, i don't even think 1/4" mdf is available. i built a box with 1/2" mdf for 200 watts x 2 subs before, and that was more than fine. we built a 1800 watt (450 x 4) wall in my friends '91 camaro, and we used 3/4" mdf then.

we did this on suggestions from a guy we knew back in high school in the fayetteville car scene. dude named doug had the top system in whatever class he competed in in the db drag competitions. his truck was named, "earthquake", and that shit was money. you could feel his shit from a mile away, and probably more.

as for the alpine amps at best buy, the drone could be from the fact that they're demos. i mean, they're probably being used for much more consecutive hours than they're meant to be. aside from that, they may not be hooked up right, or it could be issues with the connections, etc. there are a number of possiblities for the drones. i've never bought shit from best buy and whatnot. my friends and i have always gone to speciality shops. i don't trust the speakers and shit at best buy, because i don't feel i'm getting a true represenation of the products.

[Edited on May 29, 2006 at 5:55 AM. Reason : ]

5/29/2006 5:41:30 AM

Look, every reputable site that exists online will tell you 3/4" mdf. You are talking about weight and then talking about adding screws and braces to add strength, just go with the 3/4" and save yourself the trouble of going screw and brace crazy. Box for box (generic cubes of 1-2 cu ft) 3/4" no bracing versus 1/2" with bracing is going to be close to similar weight and the 3/4" will handle modest power levels (<1000w) all day long. At an absolute minimum, the baffle should be 3/4" at anything over 100w. Heck, I'm only putting 100w into my 10w3 and without any bracing the baffle was vibrating enough that I felt like it was coloring the sound (the effect was very slight). So I added two 3/4"x2" braces front to back on each side of the driver and it cleaned it up (maybe placebo effect, who knows).

Quote :

"i don't even think 1/4" mdf is available."

Sure it is.

Quote :

"we did this on suggestions from a guy we knew back in high school in the fayetteville car scene. dude named doug had the top system in whatever class he competed in in the db drag competitions. his truck was named, "earthquake", and that shit was money. you could feel his shit from a mile away, and probably more."

This is the single most abused reason for car audio "knowledge" out there. I have been reading, posting, and playing in car audio for 10 years now, and 95% of the people that "know" car audio gained their knowledge by some buddy that has a system that might have won some competitions. That's like having a friend that is a general contractor and claiming you know how to build a house.

Quote :

"i mean, they're probably being used for much more consecutive hours than they're meant to be."

The mechanicals of a speaker system (anything mechanical really) can wear out, but these things are very robust and it isn't because it is being played all the time. Speakers don't "drone" when they have a lot of hours of play on them, I have a 10w3 thats been used for 7 years now that more or less disproves this theory, not to mention those speakers on the sales floor are going to get turned over eventually as people buy them and new models replace them.

Quote :

"they may not be hooked up right, or it could be issues with the connections"

It's amazing when you think about it, guys that at least have a little bit of formal training, have managed to hook up incorrectly every product they are trying to sell.

The more likely scenario is either they have dropped the speakers in incorrect enclosures, couple with the lack of low end bass gain you would get from a car means the poor midbass range reproduction of all those speakers is easier to hear inside. Subwoofers sound radically different in the stores because you are missing out on 5-10+dB gain you get from your car.

5/29/2006 7:17:13 AM

http://www.brentroad.com/message_topic.aspx?topic=402613

5/29/2006 12:01:57 PM

Quote :

"Which sub was this that could handle 50,000 watts?"

woah, missed that, yeah, what sub can handle that power?

5/29/2006 2:32:03 PM

i digress on all counts, but one:

Quote :

"This is the single most abused reason for car audio "knowledge" out there. I have been reading, posting, and playing in car audio for 10 years now, and 95% of the people that "know" car audio gained their knowledge by some buddy that has a system that might have won some competitions. That's like having a friend that is a general contractor and claiming you know how to build a house."

the guy wasn't in some local based competition, or some shit in the brickyard. he was in the db drag shit, which is basically a professional level of competition. i'm sure you're aware of that. i mean, he wouldn't be recognized as one of the best at the time if he didn't know what he was doing. i don't think his sponsors would be backing him either.

5/29/2006 3:16:37 PM

i've been doing most of my research using jl's website support section is awesome

the thing i really have no idea about is how a system should be balanced
aka how much wattage to the sub vs. the rest of the system.

5/29/2006 4:48:48 PM

I would say it would be best to add the sub and adjust the amp to suit your speakers. With a good head unit the balance between power to the sub and power to the front stage should be easily done. Then once you get better power to the front you are able to again adjust the sub to equal out again. This does waste power that could be used to the sub, but I would say it would be better to buy the good stuff and upgrade once than to buy something to match your front stage and then have to replace the sub when u decide to upgrade the front stage....

5/29/2006 5:39:18 PM