pmed maxima and he seems busy this week, i need a clarion head unit installed in my MR2 and dont have the wiring know how to do it

old system is out just need new one in

lemme know time location and most important price if you can be of help

1/3/2007 3:44:40 PM

worst case scenario, go to circuit city

1/3/2007 4:01:32 PM

there isn't much to know. This is a job anyone can do. IF you aren't using a after-market harness then simply google a wireing diagram so you know which each lead goes to and thats it. As long as you know how to crimp wires together.

1/3/2007 4:02:05 PM

i actually googled that and couldnt find a damn thing on MR2's from the 2000+ range

if anyone can find one a link would be greatttttt

ok so i took a look at the old port

where the clarion has 2 leads for each color the old one has one, so im guessin just hook up the same color to the one line

as for the other problem, there is a teal/mint green and a pink line on the old
does the red lead on the new matchup to the pink and where does the teal go

also there are two big ass yellow lines with fuses but no port for that on the old plug...wtf

[Edited on January 3, 2007 at 4:19 PM. Reason : f]

1/3/2007 4:11:13 PM

ok color matching the wires isn't a good idea. Thats why i suggested finding a wiring diagram. Also some of the leads on the new unit won't actually connect to anything. Depending on what features your unit has, things like phone mute won't actually be hooked up to anything. the big ass lines with fuses are your power leads (obviously) you have to check and make sure you know which one is for 12v memory (constantly on at all times) and the other which cuts power to the radio when you turn the car off.

Have you tried searching for a harness from crutchfield? it would literally be plug and play and it will come a diagram that tells you what everything is.

also if you want a 'now' solution, try best buy or circuit city for this harness. I didn't find one at either location for my Evo but tweeter had them in stock for lancers. So give them a shot too.

[Edited on January 3, 2007 at 4:58 PM. Reason : adf]

1/3/2007 4:56:52 PM

best buy will probably carry a wiring harness.

all the leads on the harness will be labeled as well as the leads on the head unit

1/3/2007 5:01:37 PM

Always buy from crutchfield.

1/3/2007 5:13:06 PM

its more than just a wiring plug and play

there is nothing there but bare wires, no plug no nothing from the original factory radio

the guy that i got the car from did leave the old radio and the old plug though with it...but i doubt that helps any

i took the panels off to trace the wires and figured out what wires run to what speaker...so i have those wires set aside

now there are 5 remaining wires

anyone?? anyone with any idea at all
if all else fails guess i will go to the local speaker shop and pay 45 bucks for them to connect wires

1/3/2007 6:09:45 PM

there will be a constant 12v power, switched 12v power, ground, maybe a dimmer...

1/3/2007 6:17:40 PM

ok i have found everything now thanks to being able to gain access into best buys computer with its wiring diagram

anyways i found everything except for there is 2 wires a orange and green that have no use so far

i have found the RF speaker + LF speaker+ ignition battery RF - LF - and ground

this leaves 2 wires...one for dimmer maybe the other forrrrr???

1/3/2007 6:31:21 PM

wiring harnesses are ghetto, they make such an ugly install

1/3/2007 6:50:06 PM

^not if done right. zip ties are your best friend. Besides...once the radio is in you can't see the wires or the harness...and it makes for a much easier install/uninstall. Unless you are sandsanta and niggerrigged your shit...(at least it works though)

1/3/2007 6:54:43 PM

buying a wiring harness is for people who dont know how to butt splice, and butt splicing is easy and looks a lot better and takes up less space

1/3/2007 7:07:18 PM

but splicing is easy, I did it in the STi. Its still faster to use a harness. Especially when you are dealing with a navigation system that has a shit ton of different leads.

1/3/2007 7:19:29 PM

just buy a new car with the radio you want

1/3/2007 7:39:02 PM

I usually trim down the 2 harness', soldier the adapter harness to the new radio harnes, heat shrink and tape, very clean and if you ever sell the car or upgrade the radio it's simple to undo.

[Edited on January 3, 2007 at 7:40 PM. Reason : butt splicing with crimp-ons sucks]

1/3/2007 7:39:26 PM

what year and are you talkin about the car harness or the headunit harness wires you cant figure out?

1/3/2007 8:44:14 PM

Quote :

"butt splicing is easy and looks a lot better"

What kinda dumb shit is this? It's all hiding behind the head unit anyway, and a harness mating to another harness looks a ton better than crimped up plastic.

1/3/2007 9:13:18 PM

my shit is soldered and heat shrinked, but a small crimped peice of plastic does look better than a foot of wires and an extra harness all crammed behind your shit (and if youre using a wiring harness you are probable using some shitty twist connector)

1/3/2007 9:18:02 PM

got it figured out

that took awhile and thanks to that kick ass site it told me just what wires were for what

radio works, soldering them tomorrow and gettin the faceplate and all that in line

wasnt as hard as i thought once i figure out what wires went where.


F a plug and play, do it the right way

1/3/2007 9:29:48 PM

Quote :

"does look better"

Are you pulling the receiver out daily to have a look at your novel wiring job or something? You have way to much time on your hands to forego a simple crimp connector for soldering and heat shrink.

1/5/2007 9:16:57 AM

^ only probelm is crimp connectors don't make a sound connection, they vibrate loose and are overall ghetto in general

1/5/2007 10:25:03 AM

i forgot who this guy's name is BUT at the tweeter in Cary I was browsing around and told him I had money to spend at best buy but asked if he could install the deck, he did for $30 and it took 30 minutes on the spot.

1/5/2007 10:47:15 AM

I have had crimp connectors on my basic Pioneer deck that has moved in and out of about 6 cars (sometimes multiple times per car for various reasons) over the last 8 years and I have yet to have any sort of connection issues with it.

Nothing ghetto about it. Sure, it isn't as good as solder, but I'd rather spend 5-10 minutes crimping connectors than 30-40 minutes soldering and heat shrinking every time I move cars/change setups.

1/5/2007 11:47:04 AM

^ well whatever floats your boat, shit ass receivers half assed intalled are perfectly acceptable for some people

[Edited on January 5, 2007 at 12:22 PM. Reason : and it only takes a few extra minutes to solder if you have any common sense at all]

1/5/2007 12:21:36 PM

Quote :

"and it only takes a few extra minutes to solder if you have any common sense at all"

I knew some dumbass would try to make this claim in defense of going the solder route. It shows you haven't done too much real soldering and heat shrinking in your life.

1/5/2007 12:47:24 PM

Quote :

"shows you haven't done too much real soldering and heat shrinking"

actually i do it on everything, especially trailer wiring etc. you know how long it takes to rip apart half ass exterior wiring that some tard crimped and it got corroded to replace the section and solder and heat shrink it correctly? a lot longer than doing it correctly the first time

and also on any manufacturers recall, any electrical connections are specified to be soldered with heat shrink, if a butt crimp was worth a shit don't you think they would use that? no because it is a liability, they are failure prone



[Edited on January 5, 2007 at 3:10 PM. Reason : asshat you just got owned]

1/5/2007 3:09:45 PM

I didn't realize the wiring behind a head unit was going to be exposed to the elements. GTFO with your worthless trailer hitch example.

And I never said soldering wasn't the better solution you stupid mongoloid devoid of rational thought. I just said in my opinion, backed by a ton of experience, it is a complete waste of time unless you just like waiting for wire to heat up to run solder through it.

1/5/2007 3:13:33 PM

hahahahaha, you just got owned and are just blabbering shit now try not to look like the alias tard that you are you stupid fuck

1/5/2007 3:16:31 PM

Thats fine.

1/5/2007 3:21:39 PM

Quote :

"waiting for wire to heat up to run solder through it"

It takes all of 5 seconds per wire. End of story, it's not bad to crimp it's just not as good, some people just like clean work even when you can't see it.

1/5/2007 3:51:32 PM

You guys must be using some thin shit then.

1/5/2007 4:48:50 PM

^ no you're just the only one that doesnt know what they're doing

1/5/2007 10:16:01 PM

Quote :

"You guys must be using some thin shit then."

The fuck are you using? That 0.125" shit they sell in the plumbing section of Lowe's?

I use sizes ranging from 0.022" to 0.032"...and that shit flows quickly. Tin your iron properly so that you get good thermal conductivity into your wires, and it only takes a couple of seconds.

Cut heat shrink tubing pieces.
Strip wires.
Put heat shrink on one wire.
Twist wires together (end-to-end, not side-by-side).
Solder all wires.
heat shrink.

Painless and much more sanitary than insulated butt connectors. And a much better connection.

Insulated butt connectors are for wiring other people's shit together or for making a quick fix when you're out in the field.

They have no place on my wiring.

1/5/2007 10:45:51 PM