Carpetbagger Veteran 246 Posts user info edit post |
How bad is this going to be? Do we need to bleed the brakes in addition? Or are we better off just taking it to some brake place to get this done?
Anyone here want to do this tomorrow and make a quick buck? Need the front pair replaced BADLY.
Shoot me a PM if anyone can get to this tomorrow, or advice on how to do it myself or where else to take it and not get reemed on the price would be great. Thanks 2/12/2007 11:53:48 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
those trucks are very simple. if it's just a pad replacement, you will:
1. remove wheel.
2. remove 2 large bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket.
3. remove the old pads.
4. compress the piston back in with a caliper tool or a large C clamp. keep an eye on the fluid during this so it doesn't spill out of the reservoir.
5. if the rotors are okay, scuff them very lightly with a very fine grit sandpaper or even some steel wool. thoroughly clean them with brake/parts cleaner.
6. install the new pads, slide the assembly back over the rotor. it may help to install a couple of lug nuts snug against the rotor for this so it doesn't move around.
7. bolt everything back up and repeat on the other side. make sure to torque the lug nuts to factory specs with a torque wrench. this is very important for the life of the rotor.
i'd be surprised if you don't have warped rotors also. very common problem on the 99+ super dutys. are you getting any pulsating/vibrations when you apply the brakes or what?
[Edited on February 13, 2007 at 12:02 AM. Reason : more] 2/13/2007 12:01:04 AM |
Noen All American 31346 Posts user info edit post |
Hey Ivan, this is actually my buddies (and our work truck).
Rotors might be warped, when I drive it I just noticed the grinding sound of metal on metal a few days ago, but apparently there's some pulsing/vibration too.
Basically we don't have the time for it (based on what you laid out) and I'm sure the damn rotors are shot (just my luck). I was hoping it might be as easy as on my Saturn, cause that's about the time we have to do it. Just need em changed tomorrow because we have to deliver a bunch of concrete countertops on Wednesday, and having an extra couple thousand pounds on the brakes isn't the best idea. 2/13/2007 12:08:51 AM |
baonest All American 47902 Posts user info edit post |
you dont have to turn the rotors if you cant.
but expent the pads to wear to the rotor..
you can always take them off when you get time and turn them, but you also need sand the pads.
i pad slap just about every car i have. not the best idea, but hell if i dont got time to turn rotors, then im just gonna slap on some pads 2/13/2007 12:13:23 AM |
Noen All American 31346 Posts user info edit post |
so anyone want to do this shit for a quick Bill tomorrow? 2/13/2007 12:22:28 AM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
tyler, go ahead and bite the bullet and pick up some new rotors with the pads. sounds like those are probably warped at least a little, and it's just a waste to turn them.
they shouldn't take you much if any longer than your saturn, the process is basically the exact same just bigger parts. they are slip on rotors, unlike alot of trucks where you have to tear the hub down to get the rotor off. you're looking at 1-1.5 hours tops.
when you've got more time or $$, invest in a pair of powerslots and some hawk pads for the front.
don't skip on using a torque wrench on the lug nuts... you'll risk warping the new ones just tightening things down if you do.
i'd be willing to do it for you tomorrow (i owe you a favor anyway), but the weather is supposed to be nasty and i don't have an open spot in the garage here until i get my vette back together. also, my torque wrench is at my house and i'm still staying at my parent's. if you can think of some alternative to work something out, i'd be happy to help. i don't have shit to do tomorrow.
[Edited on February 13, 2007 at 12:31 AM. Reason : .] 2/13/2007 12:29:20 AM |
Noen All American 31346 Posts user info edit post |
yea the big issue is all my shit is in Garner at the shop, while the truck is in the middle of Raleigh, and we have shit to do all day everyday it seems like. It'd be a 3 hour + job just to change the pads for me, and I can't afford that right now.
I guess we'll just drop it off at supreme brake in the morning and see how bad it is.
Thanks for the info though, at least now I'll know if they are trying to fucking screw us or not.
[Edited on February 13, 2007 at 12:31 AM. Reason : .] 2/13/2007 12:31:29 AM |
baonest All American 47902 Posts user info edit post |
durrrrrrr.
i forgot you can just buy new rotors. me
yeah. like BBR said. get new ones. for my integra they were like 20 each i think. with 2 year warrantee.
and just keep the ones you took off as spares, get them turned at some point, so the next brake job you are set. 2/13/2007 12:32:10 AM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
^^see my edit
if you do end up taking it to a shop, don't let the monkeys get ahold of it with an impact putting the lug nuts back on. not even with a torque stick. make sure they manually use a torque wrench.
^yeah, these babies are like ~70 bucks or so apiece...
[Edited on February 13, 2007 at 12:34 AM. Reason : .] 2/13/2007 12:33:25 AM |
gk2004 All American 6237 Posts user info edit post |
PM sent 2/13/2007 12:49:53 AM |
5.0 Veteran 260 Posts user info edit post |
hey bbr, what is the tq spec for the lugs? 2/13/2007 8:24:55 AM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
some people say 150, others will tell you 165. supposedly 150 is what was used from 1999-2003, then a tsb was issued and everything was changed to 165.
i keep mine around 150 and it's fine. i still warp rotors after a while, but mine sees ALOT of city driving and is pretty heavily loaded 24/7. my issues are definitely heat related. haven't ponied up the dough for powerslots/hawks yet, probably will the next go round. 2/13/2007 8:48:38 AM |
MrUniverse All American 26072 Posts user info edit post |
whats the consensus on Hawk pads? good stuff, worth the money?
I am looking to upgrade my OE to their ceramic pads or maybe the composites, though i dont want brake dust, so ceramic is more to my liking.
[Edited on February 13, 2007 at 8:58 AM. Reason : ] 2/13/2007 8:58:09 AM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
yep, def. worth it imo. 2/13/2007 9:07:41 AM |
MrUniverse All American 26072 Posts user info edit post |
what do you use? Ceramic, composite? How was braking improved? Lots of noise or brake dust? 2/13/2007 9:32:56 AM |
baonest All American 47902 Posts user info edit post |
upgrading brakes wont do anything but make you lock up your wheels faster. you gotta also upgrade your tires.
people get big brake kits and expect to stop faster. but if you are locking up your brakes with stock pads, then you are locking them up faster with bigger brakes. 2/13/2007 9:38:56 AM |
MrUniverse All American 26072 Posts user info edit post |
upgrading tires will be done at the same time
however i get angry with the amount of dust the OE produce... and from driving my car and reading the reviews of the OE pads they suck when it comes to hard braking, it is almost non existent
the upgrading is being done primarily to reduce the brake dust and along with tires hopefully the braking capacity of the vehicle... however i do not want to improve the amount of brake dust ifit sacrifices noise
it is my understanding from reading up on it, that any repalcement pad other than OE is better!
2006 Honda Accord V6 6MT
[Edited on February 13, 2007 at 10:04 AM. Reason : ] 2/13/2007 10:03:48 AM |
Igor All American 6672 Posts user info edit post |
Quote : | "upgrading brakes wont do anything but make you lock up your wheels faster. you gotta also upgrade your tires.
people get big brake kits and expect to stop faster. but if you are locking up your brakes with stock pads, then you are locking them up faster with bigger brakes." |
generally tr00 but there are such things as modulation and brake fade that improve with better brake pads/full brake setups. wheels dont just lock up at 45 mph so even improved pads on stock everything else will yield significantly shorter braking distances. Under 10-15 mph or in wet conditions, yes, your brakes will simply lock up faster unless you upgrade the tires.2/13/2007 10:29:22 AM |
Seotaji All American 34244 Posts user info edit post |
the good thing about ceramics are that they fade a bit less than the O.E. pads. in heavy city driving, it's a great thing.
most of the pads out there will trade you noise for stopping power. some are worse for your rotors.
i tried hawk HPS street brake pads and they warped my rotors twice. a bit more noise also. 2/13/2007 5:10:27 PM |
dannydigtl All American 18302 Posts user info edit post |
i really liked the hawk HPS i had on the M3. very good modulation, very little dust, and the dust they do make is light tan and powdery (not gooey) so it can be brushed off. mine were silent on the M3.
I'm gonna get em again for the 540 2/14/2007 4:54:13 PM |
MrUniverse All American 26072 Posts user info edit post |
its a crap shoot it seems, for some people/cars some things work and others dont
I have read numerous reviews where they love the hawks and then other saying they sucked and they warp rotors 2/14/2007 4:57:43 PM |
Noen All American 31346 Posts user info edit post |
We got Bendix pads and Weaever rotors from Advance Auto.
I mean it's cool and all that everyone cares so much about brakes, but the rest of us just need something to haul shit with.
And BigBlueRam, dear lord son, thanks. Still have no damn clue how you did it, but runs like a champ (and more importantly stops like one now) 2/14/2007 8:35:42 PM |
BigBlueRam All American 16852 Posts user info edit post |
ah, can't let a little thing like that keep me down, lol.
no problem man, glad i could return the favor. 2/15/2007 1:00:22 AM |