the gf and i had a new washer and dryer brought over yesterday, and "installed", but the guy wouldn't hook up the dryer because we our ductwork is old (so he says). says the new dryers operate too hot to hook up to old small ductwork. i'm pretty sure maintenance won't be willing to rip out walls and ceilings to replace all the ductwork. any truth to this shit? or is this a fat redneck unhappy install guy being a prick?
5/10/2009 2:14:04 PM
i've never heard of this, and i've put in old washer/dryers into new units and vice versa (which even sometimes requires electrical work, ie: changing plugs)then again, i'm definately no expert- i'd call home depot and ask them
5/10/2009 2:16:24 PM
you think experts work at Home Depot? I used to work there.lol.
5/10/2009 2:18:22 PM
i always wanted to work in the garden center of lowes
5/10/2009 2:19:18 PM
When I did appliance delivery for Lowe's, I can't ever remember turning down an installation because of 'in the wall' duct work. Hell, we never knew what was inside the wall. Then again, I can't remember there ever being a duct inlet that was very small...at least, nothing that we didn't just ghetto rig. The thing that mattered was the duct that went from the dryer to the wall. You will need a new duct piece for that (the aluminum, slinky-type is best with the spring clamps).Now, if its PVC pipe or something similar that's in the wall, you most likely can't do that. New dryers get very hot (200 F +) and run higher than the safety temperature limit of PVC piping. Where you run into problems is when the ductwork will melt or warp, making leaks and all that. If its a metal duct, there should be no problem. If its a plastic or composite looking thing, I'd try and find some numbers on it and look it up online.You should definitely take a look with google and see what they say, that's how I found out about the PVC piping. If you are more interested in it, you could call the delivery department of Home Depot/Lowes, because those guys will know their shit about installation. People on the floor are only concerned with selling appliances, and we had our fair share of bad sales...
5/10/2009 2:59:10 PM
my cousin is like ubertech for GE, i can ask him. provided he calls me ever
5/10/2009 3:55:50 PM
so, if there's PVC where the piece of duct connects at the wall, I'm fucked?
5/10/2009 4:25:15 PM
^^^ exactly. Only experiences I've had with customers not getting dryers hooked up by delivery crews were when said customers had some form of plastic serving as a vent for the dryer. Worked at Sears for over 5 years now (nearly 3 in appliance sales - not what I currently do) and this isn't super uncommon. Or the "fat redneck unhappy install guy" is being a prick, which is also not super uncommon.[Edited on May 10, 2009 at 4:28 PM. Reason : .]
5/10/2009 4:28:44 PM
ideally you want 4" metal duct all the way outside. none of that paper with aluminum foil crap or vinyl slinky duct. that said many homes had builders who didnt give a shit so consequently your clothes will take forever to dry and it will overheat the element causing it to burn out or blow a thermal fuse in the dryer. only impact on safety is that more lint will build up inside the dryer making a fire more likely. so make sure you open the dryer at least once a year to vacuum it out.
5/10/2009 4:33:30 PM
at the least, the duct work from the dryer to the wall is metal. I mean, I can't very well fuse through the wall to see how the rest of the setup is.GUESS WE'LL SEEi mean, we didn't get a commercial dryer or anything, it's new, front-loading, but was on the lower price scale. .which, to me, means that maybe it's not a super-duper-ooper high heat one that will blow out my wall.
5/10/2009 4:40:46 PM
they dont run that fucking hotyoull be fine
5/10/2009 4:44:36 PM
5/11/2009 1:09:08 AM
BROKE IN TO THE OLD APARTMENTTHIS IS WHERE WE USE TO LIH
5/11/2009 1:10:15 AM