Can't really find a good picture, but hopefully I can describe the problem and see if any of you have had it as well.

Last year we had 2 better boy tomato plants. It was in a slightly shaded spot, and watered them daily. We were sure to water at the base of the plant to not get the tomatoes wet during the day at any point. However, when the tomato would ripen, we'd cut into them only to find most of the juice gone from the tomato.

I'm amazed I can't find a good picture, but let me try and describe.



If you look at the picture, and basically remove the red soft juicy part to where it's almost like a hollow shell, that's what they looked like. We had a grape tomato plant that did fine, but the larger tomatoes were a bust.

This year, we went all out and have 10 types of tomato plants, and have planted them in a spot that gets sun most of the day. We have a soaker hose that waters daily at the same time each day, and keeps the ground moist for the plants. We pulled our first tomato off today, and the same thing was wrong.

Any thoughts?

I finally googled the right combo of words, and found out it is called "puffiness"



It is caused by either constant high (>90) or low temps (<58), high N or low K, or lack of pollination. I'm not really sure what my options are here. We didn't use a large amount of fertilizer, so I wouldn't think high N would be a problem. I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that insects and the wind took care of pollination...so I don't know.

[Edited on June 28, 2009 at 8:50 PM. Reason : .]

6/28/2009 8:34:19 PM

nutrient problem?

6/28/2009 8:38:09 PM

6/28/2009 8:42:45 PM

^damn i totally clicked on the thread to mention tomacco

6/28/2009 9:05:01 PM

put down some lime and potash

do you by chance have pine trees nearby? if so then your soil is probably acidic

6/28/2009 9:19:51 PM

Get some soil samples and send them to the nearest place that does testing. Tell them you're planting tomatoes (you write it on the sample box I think) and you'll get information by mail that tells you what the deal is with your soil and how to best treat the soil so that tomatoes can grow there.

http://www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/uyrst.htm

More details on that site. I've never used the service, just heard it described when I took a few different classes at state.

6/28/2009 9:23:50 PM

just use the county ag extension

6/28/2009 9:52:01 PM

get multiple samples from multiple areas of the plots in question

especially since one plant did well

6/28/2009 10:05:42 PM

Quote :

"high N or low K, or lack of pollination. I'm not really sure what my options are here. We didn't use a large amount of fertilizer, so I wouldn't think high N would be a problem"

Well, it could still be low potassium based on what you posted. I'm no tomato expert, but doesn't calcium deficiencies cause all the other nutrients to be absorbed poorly, usually resulting in end rot but maybe it is causing your problems as well. It's why 69 mentioned lime. You can also do a soil test at home with a kit you get from Lowes or HD that will give you some idea of your soil conditions.

6/28/2009 11:04:19 PM

calcium deficiency has the hallmark of blossom end rot. puffiness is due to seed setting issues. in addition to the causes OP listed, puffiness can also be caused by temperatures being too high and too much rain/overwatering. i would recommend getting the soil test (its free), lightly fertilizing with some 10-10-20, and lightly applying some bone meal (lime can burn the plants at this point, its better as a soil treatment before planting or after harvest). decrease your watering and consider hand pollinating with a paintbrush.

what varieties are you growing this year? the puffy tomatoes are still edible and they would be great for soup or paste.

6/29/2009 2:38:40 AM

egg-shells in my organic compost.....

6/29/2009 6:44:29 AM

[Edited on June 29, 2009 at 4:40 PM. Reason : asdf]

6/29/2009 4:40:03 PM