Some people are religious about pulling it every year, inspecting the gimbal bearing and boots, u-joints, splines, etc., and replacing the boots and water pump every 5 years or so.

I have never once pulled one, and my gimbal bearing finally went out after 11 years. I haven't pulled it yet to see if it got water in it yet or check the boots, but I'll probably go ahead and put a new seal kit on it (water intake, shifter boot, exhaust and intake) and a new bearing, along with a water pump impeller in the lower unit.

The question is, since it's not a catastrophic failure, hell I ran it another two hours on the sound with it trimmed to keep the shaft straight and not turning it too sharp, and its a pain in the ass to pull it every year, is it worth the effort?

I'm for just greasing everything twice a year, and replacing it all when it fails.

Has anyone ever seen a rediculously long life on one by yearly inspection?

It's a gen II alpha one btw.

11/2/2009 7:45:28 AM

I'll post in your thread.

11/2/2009 1:48:54 PM

For salt water, I think it's a damn good idea to at least closely inspect it every year. And replace the water pump every 5 years? In fresh water it might be overkill, but for the salt, I'd go with every two.

11/2/2009 1:56:15 PM

run to failure

11/2/2009 2:21:07 PM

It sees a mix of brackish and fresh, this weekend was the first sign it's ever been on the open ocean yarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Maybe its a sign I should stick to the sound and waterway, at least until i get a closed cooling system on there

11/2/2009 2:41:32 PM

If you pee in the oil, it will run better.

11/2/2009 3:45:55 PM

runnin amsoil in that shit right now

i have a big list for the winter:

replace the fuse block and slather it with dielectric grease, chase down other corroded connections

take the slack out of all the sterring components

find that damn slow leak in one of the trim lines

clean the bejesus out of everything

new thermostat

closed cooling system

transom seals kit/gimbal bearing/u joints/flush gear lube

new fuel gauge

add two speakers to use all four channels on the radio

new plugs/wires/cap/rotor

fuel filter/oil filter

new idler pulley/adjuster/belt

new battery

winterize


this mofo will be ready to be run hard and put up wet next season

11/2/2009 3:59:33 PM

My boat is currently in a run hard and put up wet state. Waiting for a new cover to get shipped out...I'll clean it up, change the oil, polish the gel coat, and winterize it in the next few weeks. I run that VR1 racing oil because it's supposed to be better for the flat tappet cam. I think Rotella T and some of the Mobil1 junk has the zinc additives too, but VR1 is cheap enough and easy to find.

11/2/2009 4:27:04 PM

VR1 is indeed the way to go for the dino oil route. the additive you're talking about is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate...it's an extreme pressure lubricant that helps out when your oil film breaks down. Especially good for flat tappet cams. And yes, Scrotella has it too.

11/2/2009 4:29:27 PM

i gots a roller cam 2bbl 305

it is the most overbuilt, anemic motor ever, so it should last till the cows come home

i swear thats why my old 92' gmc sierra lasted 300k+ miles, it had a tbi 305 with like 180hp, the 700R4 tranny never had issues, hell, it would barely break the tires loose, but it always kept pluggin along

it's the only thing that keeps me from puttin a hot cam and a q-jet on there

11/2/2009 5:08:02 PM