put the hub in the oven for 90 minutes on 250*and used brass punches to "tap" the outer races. Cleaned the hub up, and went to install the new races, which just about ate my brand new $11 brass punch kit. (bent one punch, rounded off the head on another punch, leaving me with one decent punch for the next hub).

took like 45 minutes

Lesson here: There's a thing called a bearing driver kit. It's like $56 at NT. I'll be getting it to install my next set of bearings, while I pray that the current punch set is in good enough shape to tap the old races out.


[Edited on November 2, 2009 at 11:49 AM. Reason : .]

11/2/2009 11:31:02 AM

You can use a hardened punch on the old races... you aren't saving them. I only use the brass punches on the new races. Another trick I've used is a pot of oil with the race in it.. allows you to get it to 300-325* easy.

11/2/2009 11:36:13 AM

I don't want to accidentally scratch/gouge the inside of the hub. That's a big no-no. I can afford to waste a few brass punches. A new hub, not so much. No sense in a used hub, cause I'd might as well replace the bearings in that while it's off and I've got a new set right?

I actually freezed the new races and they seated halfway down quite easily. But after they warmed up, which didn't take long since the hub was still hot, that last 1/8" or so was a bitch

[Edited on November 2, 2009 at 11:51 AM. Reason : .]

11/2/2009 11:48:21 AM

i def. froze the bearings i installed in my transmission case. i got about as far as you mentioned and things got difficult. i was so angry at that point that i really didn't care about the outcome and just hammered the hell out of it. drives great. a+

11/2/2009 12:33:07 PM

Damn I got a press man.

11/2/2009 1:00:43 PM

why not just press them in?

11/2/2009 1:00:47 PM

remind me not to eat your wife's cookies

11/2/2009 1:18:14 PM

I've owned 2 sets of bearing drivers, and I've got to say they're worth the investment. Buy steel ones if you can, because the aluminum ones made by Lisle trash quickly. Of course, they don't trash nearly as fast if used with a hydraulic press, which is in my opinion the best thing since sliced bread. With a hammer? Oh, they trash quickly indeed.

Using a brass punch to break out old stuff makes as much sense as using a buck knife as a screwdriver.

11/2/2009 1:31:36 PM

for future reference, weld a bead inside the old race all the way around or in a few spots on a larger one, let it cool, and it will drop right out

11/2/2009 1:44:04 PM

I've actually done that with valve seats in aluminum heads.

11/2/2009 1:49:09 PM

yeah, a press and a decent array of pullers is a very worthwhile investment for any bearing work. various blocks, pieces of pipe, old races, etc. are very helpful too. you can get a decent press at harbor freight cheap. i think i caught mine on special for like $150 or something, and it's a decent size standing unit. it's not terribly complicated to build your own either with a bottle jack or two and some scrap steel.

11/2/2009 2:38:27 PM

i broke Jeepman's bearing separator from harbor freight with his cheapo northern press the first time i used it on my carrier bearings

11/2/2009 2:43:08 PM

lol, yeah, hence why i didn't mention getting the pullers/seperators from there. i, too, have broken many cheapo jaw pullers and plate style seperators just looking at them funny. those are things that are worth investing a little extra in, even if you only use them occasionally.

11/2/2009 2:47:26 PM

a good plate style separator is worth its weight in chicken wings...which is right next to gold in my opinion.

11/2/2009 3:47:04 PM

and seriously, dont put auto parts in the damn oven

11/3/2009 8:16:59 AM

^ Aww. It was fun. At first I thought it was just for baking cakes and brownies.

I did put a drip pan underneath the hub, but it was still clean afterwards. I live in an apartment, so I don't care about the oven

11/3/2009 8:46:19 AM

^^ ngr plz, i powdercoat in the kitchen

11/3/2009 11:14:46 AM