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 Message Boards » » Exhaust manifold leak on a Wrangler Page [1]  
Scuba Steve
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I have a 1999 Wrangler Sport with the 4.0L 6 cylinder. I'm pretty sure I have an exhaust leak...when I drive at lower rpms I hear nothing, but when at higher rpms I hear a throaty, warbling sound. Cracks are well known to form on the exhaust manifolds for the 4.0L, above a certain weld (right before the manifold hooks into the rest of the exhaust system). If I get another OEM manifold, it will just happen again. How much should this cost me to fix in labor? Should I get the original welded to fix the crack? Any one on TWW ever do this, and wants to make some $ fixing mine?

This is the general process
http://www.gljt.org/modules.php?name=News&file=print&sid=21

[Edited on January 18, 2010 at 11:15 PM. Reason : /]

1/18/2010 11:15:00 PM

Quinn
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wow... intake manifold directly above exhaust manifold.

i never see that

1/19/2010 12:06:15 AM

underPSI
tillerman
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go ahead and buy a pacesetter header. it'll be cheaper and add power/mpg depending on how you drive.

1/19/2010 9:18:01 AM

Ragged
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are the corner studs broken that hold the intake mani with the header. dont knw how many times ive seen this

1/19/2010 12:40:15 PM

Scuba Steve
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Hmm that header is looking like a real option

1/19/2010 1:00:55 PM

zxappeal
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Quote :
"wow... intake manifold directly above exhaust manifold.

i never see that"


Every inline engine up until the '80s was configured like that...even some of the overhead cam ones.

As far as replacement manifold or header...Dorman makes a replacement that should be better than stock. You can get them through Carquest. Check it out. It won't require redoing the exhaust downpipe, whereas the Pacesetter header will. Pacesetter headers aren't that high of a quality either.

1/19/2010 1:14:46 PM

Scuba Steve
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What would "redoing the exhaust downpipe" entail? A whole new exhaust system?

1/19/2010 1:31:34 PM

zxappeal
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Between the header and the cat.

1/19/2010 1:56:00 PM

Scuba Steve
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meh

I'll go the Dorman route most likely then.

1/19/2010 2:10:15 PM

jakeller
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I know the problem. I have an I6 Cherokee, and was told that the problem really isn't worth the hassle of major work. Took mine to a muffler shop and had him patch weld what he could. Of course, two years later, its back at it, but I only spent maybe 15 bucks for the patch weld.

Would be interested in knowing if/how you get this fixed. Keep us posted.

1/20/2010 11:33:41 AM

Ragged
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the correct way would be to get a need gasket, new hardware, and a new header. or shave the old one down

1/20/2010 11:37:41 AM

Scuba Steve
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Someone suggested to me using QuikSteel, but I would have to track this leak down first.

[Edited on January 20, 2010 at 5:15 PM. Reason : .]

1/20/2010 5:13:31 PM

Ragged
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im sure its comin from where i said it was. if it wasnt you would have a high idle

1/20/2010 5:25:56 PM

Quinn
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Quote :
"Every inline engine up until the '80s was configured like that...even some of the overhead cam ones."


word. so this is a pre 80's engine design? the heat soak in the intake manifold should be epic!

1/20/2010 7:15:43 PM

zxappeal
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The 242 had its debut in 1987. It's directly descended from the 232 and 258 straight six engines. The 232 was used as early as something like 1964 or 1965. Yeah it's an OLD basic design with continual refinements over the years.

Heat soak ain't that big of a deal...but it sure is in engines like my old Datsun straight sixes. They went from an open web intake to a closed web design, and then added a heat shield, and then even added a blower to cool the fuel rail after shutdown because heat soak was such an issue.

1/20/2010 10:30:21 PM

H8R
wear sumthin tight
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1/21/2010 9:55:37 PM

Ragged
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h8 h8 h8

1/21/2010 10:00:15 PM

Scuba Steve
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Crack right there in the center of the pipe. Do you think QuikSteel would be sufficient enough to fix, or should I go with something else?

1/25/2010 12:12:34 PM

Scuba Steve
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meh, I'm impatient and I had a tube of it lying around



I'll let it cure for a few hours and take it for a ride

1/25/2010 1:21:51 PM

zxappeal
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Gonna stink.

1/25/2010 1:30:11 PM

Scuba Steve
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I had some on my Land Rover exhaust manifold (basically where the manifold connects to the engine) and it did stink, because the wind pushed the smell right into the cab. I'm hoping that this is far back enough (and under the driver) that it runs a bit cooler and it doesn't stink too bad, or the wind will dissipate it. If it is noticeable, I'll chisel it off and find some Thermosteel.

[Edited on January 25, 2010 at 1:42 PM. Reason : .]

1/25/2010 1:38:56 PM

Scuba Steve
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It stunk like hell for about 10 minutes driving around, then it stopped. Its noticeably quieter now, but I think there must be a crack somewhere else.

1/25/2010 4:53:29 PM

Ragged
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Did you clean up the area you put that on?
Do you have too?
Ice never used that stuff

1/25/2010 5:18:48 PM

Scuba Steve
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I had a little fine sandpaper that I used to roughen it up.

I might get some of this instead
Quote :
"ThermoSteel EXHAUST SYSTEM REPAIR KIT is a 2400ºF COLD WELD PASTE and is the number one recognized brand name of high heat cold-weld in the world. This kit is ideal for the repair of cracks/holes in exhaust manifolds, catalytic converters, mufflers, and exhaust pipes.
"


1/25/2010 6:05:43 PM

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