I have a 94 3000gt with a hair under 100,000 miles. It's leaking clutch fluid. Took it to a guy, he said there's a hairline crack in the master cylinder, needs to be replaced. Also said I should replace the clutch. Grand total $777. Does that sound reasonable (replacing the clutch as well). Also, is that something zxappeal and/or jeepman could or would do?

PLOT TWIST

The car has been totaled, but the damage was only cosmetic. As far as I know it's mechanically sound except for leaking clutch fluid. I'm worried that if I drop $700+ I'll have to drop some more $rhode island down the road, then some more, and I'm paying more than the car is currently worth in repairs. Should I just drop $5-6k and get something else? I feel like for that amount of money, I'm probably going to get something in similar condition to my car. I could use something a little more utilitarian, though.

TL;DR fix my car or buy a new one?

1/28/2011 6:55:40 AM

We can do this type of thing...who in the blue fuck tells you that you need to replace the whole clutch when the clutch master cylinder is leaking? Does the clutch slip?

The master cylinder is a very simple job, whereas the clutch itself is very involved and takes a while. What's more, in my opinion, there's no reason to replace the clutch unless you take the known variable (the cracked master cylinder) out of the equation.

I have a bridge in Brooklyn...

1/28/2011 7:07:42 AM

that's what i thought. the clutch doesn't slip at all. hell, i feel like I could replace the master cylinder, i just couldn't do the whole clutch.

1/28/2011 7:17:23 AM

Master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hose are all well known to fail on those cars. It usually happens around 100k, and when one of those components fails the others will fail soon after. I've seen it multiple times. What you should do is replace all three of those at the same time and leave the actual clutch alone until it actually fails. Then you won't to worry about clutch hydraulics.

clutch hydraulics are here: http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=29

If you just replace the master cylinder and then the slave fails, well you've just created extra work because then you have to get the air out of the system again. You will need a flare-nut wrench to remove the line.

[Edited on January 28, 2011 at 8:38 AM. Reason : .]

1/28/2011 8:29:53 AM

thanks for the info guys

1/28/2011 8:56:14 AM

All of that said, $777 is a very reasonable price for the repairs you mentioned.

1/28/2011 10:37:55 AM

this is the nonturbo model, right?

1/28/2011 10:45:29 AM

yeah, just the base model

1/28/2011 10:48:30 AM

update: appparently he wants to replace the clutch kit because it's over-pressurizing the system and that's what's causing the leak. said if i just replaced the hydraulic components it'd probably just happen again. also said he could knock about $100 off to bring me under $700.

considering it.

1/28/2011 1:11:55 PM

What? Who comes up with this shit?

Does the pedal seem too hard in comparison to other clutches?

That's still no reason to replace the clutch.

I have the title to the Golden Gate Bridge in hand, by the way. Care to purchase?

1/28/2011 1:15:25 PM

it's been a while since i've driven it, but it is pretty firm. or, it was when it didn't stick at the floor

how much do you want for the bridge?

1/28/2011 1:22:35 PM

The reason it would stick to the floor is that all the fluid had probably leaked out of the master.

If you can press the pedal down with reasonably normal effort, then it's just fine. Does the clutch slip at all? How does it drive?

The hydraulic components in this system can take a LOT of pressure; the master and slave cylinder are made of either aluminum or cast iron. The line is steel. You will bend components before you "overpressure" anything. You really need to get a second opinion on this. I sure would before I would consider dropping 700 bucks on something that I have almost no knowledge or familiarity with, especially on a car that you don't want to blow wads of money on.

Sure sounds like somebody wants to sell you a clutch.

1/28/2011 1:29:30 PM

i feel ya. but yeah, i'll fill up the resevoir and it'll empty out with the quickness. did you get my pm?

no clutch slippage

[Edited on January 28, 2011 at 1:32 PM. Reason : .]

1/28/2011 1:32:24 PM

zxappeal will treat you right. I suggest taking his advice and saving yourself some money.

1/28/2011 4:52:23 PM

700 to replace a clutch including parts isnt outrageous all things considered.

1/28/2011 5:15:23 PM

I don't think that's a bad price depending on the breakdown of parts & labor costs. The front-wheel-drive non turbo models are of course less work than the twin turbo AWD models. But this shop sounds sketchy.

1/28/2011 5:47:06 PM

I've only ever heard good things, and apparently comes recommended from various family friends.

that's why he said he'd knock a hundred bucks off. cause i'm firmly entrenched into the goldsboro scene, i guess, hahaha

[Edited on January 28, 2011 at 5:54 PM. Reason : .]

1/28/2011 5:51:26 PM

what shop in goldsboro?

PM me if you don't wanna post it in here

1/28/2011 7:16:05 PM

sell it and buy a vr4

1/28/2011 7:53:32 PM

Quote :

"I don't think that's a bad price depending on the breakdown of parts & labor costs. The front-wheel-drive non turbo models are of course less work than the twin turbo AWD models. But this shop sounds sketchy."

And interestingly enough, it's not that much extra work. 5 extra bolts for the transfer case and 4 for the driveshaft. If there's one thing I like about Mitsubishi AWD setups, it's the relative simplicity of it all. I think Scoobys are more of a pain in the ass by far.

1/28/2011 8:11:11 PM