There may be a better thread for this...

So I may be in the market for 2 vehicles soon. What's the best way to approach this? I will hopefully be selling 2 of my current vehicles first. The proceeds from those will cover about 10-15% of purchasing cost. One vehicle will be used and likely in the $10k area. For the second, I haven't decided on new vs slightly used - I don't care to take the depreciation hit, but I can't find the vehicle and specs I want on any lot. This vehicle would be in the $35-45k range.

I understand financing, interest, etc. However, I'm trying to see what's the best way to maintain the lowest monthly payment. From a quick napkin analysis, depending on what I get for my 2 vehicles, and thus a down payment, it was cheaper (monthly) to finance both vehicles and put all of the money towards the more expensive vehicle. Don't talk about long-term interest paid - that's avoided when you pay off things early. Anyone been in a similar situation?

Also, anyone done 84-96 month financing? I'd rather have low monthly payments and pay addition towards the principle as I can. I realize that these super long-term deals should never be held for the full term (hello interest!) and that you really need to put enough down to keep from being upside down in the future.

2/10/2014 9:33:51 AM

Quote :

"Also, anyone done 84-96 month financing? I'd rather have low monthly payments and pay addition towards the principle as I can. I realize that these super long-term deals should never be held for the full term (hello interest!) and that you really need to put enough down to keep from being upside down in the future."

I'd be wary of that long of a term. If it's not a 'valuable' sports car or a diesel truck, nah, pass on that.


No offense, but it sounds like you're trying to obtain a vehicle whose cost is beyond your means.

2/10/2014 9:40:27 AM

fair enough. I'm not outside of my means. I just like to have flexibility. There was a time when 48-72 month financing elicited such responses. I just don't see the point in not giving yourself flexibility as long as you are disciplined enough to pay long-term loans off early. I was just asking about those, as those are new to me. I was already looking at 60-72 month, which I've done in the past (one vehicle which I will likely sell for nearly what I paid for it and only about $200 in total interest paid; another I sold for about 15% less than what I paid and about $800 in total interest paid).

[Edited on February 10, 2014 at 9:48 AM. Reason : .]

[Edited on February 10, 2014 at 9:50 AM. Reason : maths]

2/10/2014 9:45:37 AM

fair enough, too.

I'm working on a 60 mth loan for my 03 Cummins, but it's $14k @ 3.5% iirc... something like $1500 total interest on the loan. That's a no brainer for me - but not sure when we're talking something like a $40k+ loan at whatever %

2/10/2014 10:47:59 AM

Quote :

"if it's idling in neutral, then the clutch is engaged, which means the input is spinning. Unless you have someone holding the clutch disengaged, with the trans in neutral"

Thanks Dr. P, but I don't think you proposed any cause? or am I just confused now?

2/10/2014 10:55:50 AM

Yeh, it certainly adds up for a $45k loan (about $5k). In all likelihood, if I get the vehicle I really want, I'd probably keep it for the long-term (well, longer than my last few vehicles - 4, 4, 2, 2 years), so I certainly need to look at the long-term finances. I don't care for 72 month and longer loans just for the interest paid if it's not paid off early, but I've been very good about getting out before really eating it. I'd really like a 48 month, but then we are talking about getting outside of my financial comfort zone, unless I really brought down my desires


Anywho, thanks for the feedback on the "new" long-term loans; I'm with you in being hesitant about those due to the interest and risk of being upside down (I mean interest sucks, and $6,000 is a ton of money, but it's not catastrophic IMO when 60-72 months would be in the $4k-5k range). I was just curious.


So anyone with feedback on how to approach negotiations and finances for 2 cars at once?.

[Edited on February 10, 2014 at 10:58 AM. Reason : .]

2/10/2014 10:57:10 AM

Quote :

"Thanks Dr. P, but I don't think you proposed any cause? or am I just confused now?"

I think confused.... I think. I was just stating the obvious

2/10/2014 11:35:11 AM

I have an '84 gmc sierra with a bum transmission. it belonged to my dad so i'd like to get it back up and running. it's got a 350 in it and i'm not sure what transmission it has now but i remember him going through a couple transmissions within a few years time. it is an auto if that matters but whats the most reliable(with gas mileage in mind) transmission to put in it?

2/10/2014 3:58:24 PM

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_C/K#Third_generation_1973.E2.80.931987

700R4, 4-speed. If he's had problems, it's because of an error during rebuild, or someone doesn't know how to maintain a transmission.

I'd get a rebuilt trans with a warranty, or get 'that' transmission rebuilt with a warranty.




[Edited on February 10, 2014 at 5:26 PM. Reason : sky is the limit for transmission swaps, just find a sucker friend with a manual and nig it from him]

2/10/2014 5:25:25 PM

Quote :

"the wheel started spinning when the engine was idling in neutral"

normal in my experience

2/10/2014 9:39:23 PM

^^

Quote :

"sky is the limit for transmission swaps, just find a sucker friend with a manual and nig it from him"

Not my fault your little stumps couldn't push the clutch all the way to the floor, chief.

2/10/2014 10:48:52 PM

Any place local with 1/0 Ga Butt Connectors? (Haven't tried Burke Brothers yet...)

If not, then I guess I'm ordering 10 of them from http://www.delcity.net/

2/15/2014 8:07:46 PM

Why?
Most people put a fuse or breaker when joining 0 wire. At least in stereo land.

2/16/2014 9:53:57 PM

i'm sure there's some electrical supply house up there that's got them

2/16/2014 10:44:54 PM

Yes city electric supply or graybar would both have them.

2/17/2014 7:18:45 AM

x-post from "what have you done to your car lately":

Quote :

"Had to buy a new bumper for the 335 because the stock one is fucked to hell from scraping. Ended up with this guy: http://www.modbargains.com/BMW-E90-M3-Replica-Front-Bumper.htm (IBT RAWR RAWR RAWR NOT AN M3, I paid $300 for it during a black friday sale, and it had about an inch more clearance believe it or not) Anyone have a good suggestion of a shop locally that can paint it & put it on for me?"

[Edited on February 17, 2014 at 8:25 AM. Reason : .]

2/17/2014 8:25:12 AM

Automotive question.
Almost a year ago, I switched to 20W-50 oil in my truck because of a minor oil leak. Requires me to add a quart every 3 to 4 weeks. Fast forward to today. My mechanic is replacing 3 different oil seals for me to try and correct the problem. Assuming he is able to completely stop the leaking, is it okay to go straight back to 10W-30?
1994 Toyota truck. 3.0L

2/18/2014 6:03:06 AM

I'd stick with the 10-30 oil.

Not that I know 'that' much about lubrication of hydrodynamic bearings, I'd say that running 20-50 probably wasn't the best idea, assuming your engine isn't a 300,000-miler with a rod knock. (The idea is to maintain the oil flow between bearing surfaces, so thinner oil for tighter tolerances)


{not an expert, but we did a lab on motor oil viscosity back in one of our labs}

2/18/2014 7:23:21 AM

How much should it cost to replace an O2 senor on an '04 Grand Cherokee? It's a bitch to reach, which is why I'm not going to do it myself. I think it's the pre-cat one on the passenger's side. I also think I might need a new evap canister, any idea how much that runs?

Can anyone recommend a good shop in Apex or Holly Springs? Thanks.

2/21/2014 3:55:32 PM

Cost $460 to have one replaced on my Porsche...so I'd guess less than that

2/27/2014 12:36:30 PM

I have a coolant leak in my integra. I've been filling it up with water (about 1/2 gal every couple weeks). Is there any sealant I can use to stop the leak? Radiator was replaced about 4 years ago.

2/27/2014 12:40:39 PM

^There are a number of them (silica stuff), but they do come with unwanted results sometimes.

Fixed a leaking heater core on an 88 325i one time using the stuff, though.

2/27/2014 12:59:08 PM

Anyone mess witha belt driven fuel pump?

2/27/2014 6:53:59 PM

....whyyyyyyyyy

I have no love for them unless they're on a 2500hp engine that requires water hose sized fuel lines.

A1000 or fuel-lab?

2/28/2014 8:26:49 AM

nascar mandates mechanical fuel pumps, but that's a safety thing

we have fuel pumps at work that are turned by 4160V motors

of course, we also have a pair of fuel tanks that are 1.5 million gallons each

2/28/2014 5:43:02 PM

pshhhhhhhhhhh hahahaha (boogity)

2/28/2014 6:18:53 PM

I meant to ask this last week...

I have a 2007 chevy colorado. During the heavy rains about 1 month ago, water leaked into the cab (front floorboard, both sides). At first I didn't think it was all that bad, so I kept the windows down/doors open when I could and had the floorboard vents on. Fastforward to two weekends ago, and I realize it's not getting much better, so I investigate and find that nearly all of the sound deadener in the cab is soaked. (Stupid mistake, I know). I pulled everything out, dried, etc. All of the carpet/sound deadener is fine now.

However, since the heavy rains, I haven't noticed any additional leaks. I took a hose to the front cowl and didn't see any leaks (I took the cowl off and this was when I had the carpet out). There really isn't a formal channel/hose to drain water - the body is just sloped to either side and water drains down into the wheel wells, behind the exterior body. I didn't notice any debris in the cowling /drain area. However, there was a good bit of debris in the wheel well, at the bottom where water exists the body. However, debris here couldn't cause a backup all the way to the cowl.

Think I'm good to go, and that it was just a freak thing due to the intense rains and possibly some debris in the channel that was eventually flushed?

[Edited on March 4, 2014 at 11:45 AM. Reason : .]

3/4/2014 11:44:26 AM

wife's '06 Acura TL needs control arm bushings. suggestions on brand?

3/5/2014 8:47:08 PM

.

[Edited on March 5, 2014 at 8:56 PM. Reason : .]

3/5/2014 8:54:42 PM

^^http://www.rockauto.com/

Raybestos boyeee

3/5/2014 9:17:20 PM

Where is the best place in the Raleigh/Cary area to go to get an engine swapped out/rebuilt?

3/8/2014 12:48:40 PM

don't everyone answer at once

3/13/2014 5:15:51 PM

Wish I had an answer for you man.

3/14/2014 9:01:45 AM

What kind of car, what kind of engine, whats it for. etc

3/14/2014 9:04:01 AM

Ford 302 in a 1990 Bronco

I'm thinking about swapping out for a 351, but it may be more trouble than it's worth.

3/14/2014 10:29:18 AM

I might purchase a vehicle in SC this weekend. If I live in NC and register it here, I only have to pay NC tax. Is that correct?

4/10/2014 7:57:03 PM

yes

4/11/2014 1:22:51 AM

^^yes

4/11/2014 9:18:02 AM

Thanks, bros. Helpful thread has been helpful.

4/11/2014 11:02:48 AM

my truck is still leaking water into the cab... though only during hard rains. guess it's time to reinvestigate.

4/11/2014 11:12:11 AM

check all your firewall penetrations (wiring grommets, pedals, etc) and seal your brake light

4/11/2014 12:01:42 PM

I have a new set of HID fog lights. One of the bulb flickers for a split second but does not ignite. I've tried switching the ballast and still the same thing. Is there anything else I can do? I'm waiting on the seller to respond to me.

4/12/2014 1:42:30 PM

Guy is sending me new bulbs I was looking forward to my HID fogs

4/12/2014 3:30:08 PM

Yesterday morning, I cranked up my '04 4runner and took my daughter to school, went back home and did a couple hours of work.

A couple of hours later, heading to do an errand, when I turned the key, the engine started to crank, and then died. turn key back, try ignition again, and nothing but clicks.

i thought maybe i left a light on or something (headlights are auto-off), but all the dome lights were set to door, and none of the doors were ajar. Also, all of the lights were fully bright, and not dim as I usually observe when a battery's dead.

later that night, I was about to call AAA but thought maybe i'd try the ignition again, and it cranked up effortlessly. This morning it's cranked up fine again.

any ideas? starter beginning to die?

5/1/2014 2:43:50 PM

2014 Ford Fusion SE (loaded) or 2014 Kia Optima EX (loaded)?

I like the Fusion a good bit better, but the cooled seats, panoramic sunroof, and longer warranty are making the Optima very enticing.

[Edited on May 19, 2014 at 1:32 PM. Reason : EX]

5/19/2014 1:25:24 PM

^^ check battery connections

5/20/2014 8:35:55 PM

^^ Without having sat in/driven either, I'm leaning towards the Ford. I like the Optima, but I'm developing a hard-on for Fords.

5/20/2014 10:00:28 PM

Won't be driving my car for 6 months, it will stay parked. What should I do, unconnect the battery? Or is it better for the car to be started by someone for a few minutes every couple of weeks?

5/20/2014 10:39:01 PM

The latter.

5/20/2014 10:42:41 PM

Inflate tires, add fuel treatment, but a container of dessicant in the cab (I use the large DampRid buckets)

[Edited on May 21, 2014 at 7:39 AM. Reason : .]

5/21/2014 7:38:35 AM