sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
So i stop spamming all of the garage with this crap but do have a place to post it for the 5 of you who do care.
61 gal Current 352 big block stock iron heads 2bbl carb ford-o-matic tranny big 9" rear 4 wheel manual drum
Plans are: Black as black can be with very very few metal flakes (random sparkles so car looks like space) trimmed fenders (think rolled but too heavy of gauge steel and none round wheel well)
1.5" drop spindles Wilwood 4 piston calipers all around 12" fronts 11" light weight rears
bigger FE engine
t-56
1" front sway 3/4" rear
quick ratio steering box
completely rebuilt front end.
3.73 rear gears and some sort of non clutch posi rear that won't blow up under tons of power.
fast efi
and
these wheels
57-tbird
fix dumb shit on it to make a better driver but not go too far from stock
so... front disk brake conversion
electric choke vacuum 2ndary carb,
rebuilt tranny
new ball joints, sway endlinks and steering linkage.
new air shocks in the rear and new water pump.
[Edited on January 23, 2013 at 5:37 PM. Reason : .] 1/23/2013 5:33:32 PM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
I dont like those wheels. 1/23/2013 5:43:57 PM |
jawhitak Veteran 328 Posts user info edit post |
i've always been partial to the Salt Flat style wheels, but those are ok too. as long as they're massively wide in the back with meaty tires, who really cares.
either way, hooray for old t-bird things
[Edited on January 23, 2013 at 6:31 PM. Reason : .] 1/23/2013 6:30:44 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
they need different center caps... those center caps say truck.... not car....
i could do giant red versions of these with the chrome centers.
it needs to have either a classic or a drag look... but torque thrusts, cragars, all the d spokes etc. are all plaid out...
also the centerline wheels posted are 15s mine will be 18s so the circles will be larger and the bolt pattern minimized
[Edited on January 23, 2013 at 7:16 PM. Reason : .] 1/23/2013 6:56:09 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
this is what i really want.... but they don't make them in 10" wide wheels.
1/23/2013 7:29:01 PM |
tchenku midshipman 18586 Posts user info edit post |
^OP rims + plasti dip 1/23/2013 7:49:19 PM |
jawhitak Veteran 328 Posts user info edit post |
^ minus 6 inches 1/23/2013 8:11:56 PM |
H8R wear sumthin tight 60155 Posts user info edit post |
If you're spending so much on paint and chrome, why not get custom wheels? 1/23/2013 8:17:16 PM |
tchenku midshipman 18586 Posts user info edit post |
$500 paint forget all the chrome make it fast and dirty 1/23/2013 10:23:47 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
The money for paint is mostly to re-rustproof the car.
But where dies one have custom wheels made ? 1/23/2013 10:28:34 PM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
Steelies plz 1/23/2013 11:09:31 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
1/24/2013 8:41:58 AM |
richthofen All American 15758 Posts user info edit post |
Red steelies with smooth center caps could be interesting, given that the car will be black. That'd give you more of a Kustom look, especially with wide whites. Red wheels on a black car always looks good though (obviously way different car but the look holds):
I presume all the chrome will be staying? 1/24/2013 10:11:00 AM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
^this guy gets it 1/24/2013 10:18:11 AM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
yeah it does look great... they're gonna have to be big though as i just ordered these....
1/24/2013 10:21:16 AM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Anyone know if you can accommodate rear doors in an NHRA legal Cage?
I don't want it to be a 4 passenger cage or anything just want a back seat to be usable and a sturdy place to mount shoulder belts or harnesses (lol wife won't ride in it without shoulder belts)
Still trying to find a 60s look racing seat. lol.
should i go bigger with the brakes? those are 12" with 4 pot calipers but i can go 13" with 6 pot ?
Car weights 3900 lbs now but should shed a few hundred when i build the engine. 1/24/2013 11:00:48 AM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
I thought this was a grand touring project?
You dont need a cage unless you dip into the 9s?
I had an old Plymouth Fury with harnesses and a bench seat. Just bolt them to the floor. 1/24/2013 11:16:54 AM |
H8R wear sumthin tight 60155 Posts user info edit post |
I'd go bigger, with 6 pots.
Foose makes some nice wheels:
http://www.chipfoose.com/ws_display.asp?filter=FOOSE_Wheels
I like the Nitrous SE Wides
Also, if you ordered wheels from HRE, you'd tell them your offset and bolt pattern. You pretty much can get one off customs ordering from them.
http://www.hrewheels.com/wheels/
[Edited on January 24, 2013 at 11:21 AM. Reason : h] 1/24/2013 11:20:34 AM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
yeah i really don't wanna do a cage but... i kinda do too lol. 1/24/2013 12:19:13 PM |
Jek All American 709 Posts user info edit post |
Even though this type of car totally isn't my thing, I dig this thread. Post more pics of the car as-is?
Is NHRA full cage or nothing, or would a roll bar with harness bar help? I think it'd be awesome to have fully modern buckets and 5 point harnesses in a car that looks mostly stock otherwise. I wouldn't go full cage for the street though, crazy chance of cracking your head open 1/24/2013 11:27:42 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
I think you are supposed to have the cage less than "6 from your helmet, with harnesses it shouldn't be hard to keep the cage out of your heads reach.
My thought is... If cage.... Then... cage! Lol 1/24/2013 11:54:34 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
here are some more as she sits pics
i'm debating on switching to triangulated 4 link or leaving leafs with a big track bar and cal tracs
might just do leafs to piss of 1inacouple lol
dr. perky.... hows your rear end feel? (nohomo)
1/26/2013 2:20:52 PM |
Dr Pepper All American 3583 Posts user info edit post |
Pretty good, considering the driveway fab I need to tweak my geometry some, but it's driven quite fine for 4.5 years and ~15-17k miles
I feel like a decent 4-link & coilovers will be somewhat easy to set-up... although it would be hard to beat stock replacement leafs & caltracs...assuming you dont mind the pseudo 4-link look hanging below the bodywork. 1/26/2013 3:12:12 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
don't mind 1 bit 1/26/2013 3:13:39 PM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
I like the interior.
What are your plans there?
I think paint should be the absolute last thing done. 1/26/2013 3:31:43 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Still working on interior plans back seat is staying as is, carpet is coming out because its new carpet they just put over the original so there is significant nastiness under it and a couple rus colored spots I can't see how bad they ar cause the original stuff is like muck to dig through.
The front seats may be modern racing buckets either straight black or re-covered to match the rear, or 60s buckets from a galaxy, mustang, bird or any other ford with cool buckets I could cover to match the red white of it.
The rot in the trunk and the possible rot in the floor plan are the only reasons I'm pushing for paint sooner than later. 1/26/2013 3:52:49 PM |
Dr Pepper All American 3583 Posts user info edit post |
- I'd have some new buckets covered to match the rear seat - fix the carpet like you mentioned - i'd honestly just fix the rust in the floor, and paint/seal it and be done. - drivetrain -wheels -fuzzy dice -...... - $profit$ 1/26/2013 4:55:46 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
The paint is a lot worse than it looks... Just looks good covered in ice. 1/26/2013 6:16:49 PM |
Dr Pepper All American 3583 Posts user info edit post |
power over paint, bro. 1/26/2013 6:18:28 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
It will happen... Ohh yes it will happen :-) 1/26/2013 6:33:31 PM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
Are you building the motor yourself? 1/26/2013 6:48:14 PM |
Quinn All American 16417 Posts user info edit post |
Who wouldn't.... 1/26/2013 11:47:06 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
So I think I'm going to phase the engine with fast efi first, then get that all sorted and debugged then ill build the shit out of the engine. 1/27/2013 12:28:14 AM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
Just my two cents, but given the nature of this build I think the cage isn't needed, and 450-470hp can easily be had in a very drivable FE.
I think you should build it to stock 390 size. Nothing exotic required! 1/27/2013 4:23:03 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
maybe
i don't really want a big inch motor but all the good cranks are for big inch motors.
i mean mine's a 352 so i'd have to go .050 over just to get 390 shit to fit. Part of me is thinking that would be plenty.... part of me is thinking... fuck it... let's go all out...
Phase 1: brakes and suspension making sure everything is sturfy
Phase 2 is to have an EFI FE...
Phase 3: rear end work. Get a good limited slip, locker, or something in the rear end with a 3.55 gear.
Phase 4 is to have a monster of an EFI FE.
Phase 5 is paint at tranny time.. going to do a t-56 with a circulation pump to make sure they don't run dry.
possible phase 6.... b00st [Edited on January 27, 2013 at 5:58 PM. Reason : .]
[Edited on January 27, 2013 at 6:22 PM. Reason : .] 1/27/2013 5:53:34 PM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
Good 390 cranks are easy to find.
If you buy a stroker kit I wouldn't advise going oversquare (especially under boost) because the rod ratio will then be shit.
Going to stock 390 size on the bore gives plenty of piston choices with lots of meat still left in the cylinder walls.
Again, without boost (and especially with EFI) it will be very easy to approach 500hp with a mild build. There are articles on Car Craft, Hot Rod, or Popular Hot Rodding (I forget which one) which details a very good 390 build.
I would crossbolt it regardless. 1/27/2013 7:28:28 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Not many cross bolted blocks.
Not going over sqare. I like long rods and high revs especially with v8s.
Big bores also lead to more instances of knock so its a damned if you do damned if you don't kinda thing.
Cross bolted blocks are a fortune. And I really thought only the factory tri power 390s had forged steel cranks the rest were in 406s and 427s. Large bore engines allow you to run some nasty heads that the small ones don't. Huge valve blue thunder heads for one. I think a 447 would be a good setup 427 bore & 428 stroke. 4.23/3.98
With a *mild* (for a roller cam) hydro roller setup 1/27/2013 9:24:50 PM |
zxappeal All American 26824 Posts user info edit post |
Goddammit. I'm starting to drool here. I LOVE FE's. LOVE them. 1/27/2013 11:14:09 PM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
You can crossbolt any FE block if you buy the hardware and arent scared of drilling it in the appropriate places. 1/27/2013 11:32:39 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Yeah but if the fit isn't perfect it doesn't do much to help. 1/28/2013 8:09:12 AM |
zxappeal All American 26824 Posts user info edit post |
I personally think it's a waste of money for a nice warm to hot street setup. Start with a well-built and balanced bottom end, and you'll be just fine. You're not gonna be spinning 9 grand all the damn time.
Though I have to admit, it sure is a shame to waste the extra skirt of that Y block design. And crossbolting does have to be done PERFECTLY... 1/28/2013 6:38:20 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Thanks zx. Just ordered edelbrock efi intake fuel rails, walboro 400lph, filters and fast efi setup. Kinda want her to be low comp for turbos later but part of me is like... That just ain't right... 1/28/2013 10:08:22 PM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
Just get a very competent shop to do it! 1/28/2013 11:10:26 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Spending $ on bottom end using edelbrock or survival heads with stock valve-train components as i can upgrade that easier then i can swapping in oliver rods later. 1/30/2013 11:00:05 AM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
since it's gonna have a 427 ....maybe give a subtle clue?
[Edited on February 4, 2013 at 11:25 AM. Reason : .]
2/4/2013 11:23:51 AM |
y0willy0 All American 7863 Posts user info edit post |
Next best thing to steelies IMO.
I'm happy you're improving this a little bit at a time lol.
Did you decide on crossbolts? You could also get one of those girdles that bolts in.
What about Dove heads? 2/4/2013 12:46:02 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
I'm getting the survival heads as barry literally wrote the book on FE engines.
it has most of the benefits of the huge blue thunder heads without all the rigging to make them fit an efi capable intake. 2/4/2013 12:57:34 PM |
richthofen All American 15758 Posts user info edit post |
^^^I like...I like. 2/4/2013 5:22:25 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
staggered tires/wheels or 285s all around?
[Edited on February 5, 2013 at 8:06 AM. Reason : .] 2/5/2013 8:04:01 AM |
Quinn All American 16417 Posts user info edit post |
Who cares about wheels. Show us the megasquirt build and rust repair!!! 2/5/2013 8:10:02 AM |