haah, nah

14 bolt, dually, from a chassis cab

[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 5:46 PM. Reason : it's for adam8778's comanche build]

7/19/2008 5:46:11 PM

Quote :

"what really puts the icing on the cake is the fact that the original intent of the thread was to publicize my lust over some 13yr old hunk of iron...then it took a left turn sommers and here we have a slow attempt at making a 5000# street hauler."

haha, yep... basically what i meant. you're one of the very few people in tww garage history that's actually turned illustrious dreaming of an off the wall project into reality.

Quote :

"seriously, if someone were to be judging based on our shopkeeping, workspace, and lack of tools, they would automatically assume nothing but shit could come from it."

i learned a long time ago not to judge that book by its cover. some of the most beautiful and functional work ever produced has come out of hole in the wall garages using basic hand tools. on the other hand, some if the biggest piles of junk come out of fancy shops with every tool imaginable. i just keep it real with junk coming out of a hole in the wall myself.

Quote :

"anyone wanna take a stab at ID'ing the axle in the background?"

hmmm, it's definitely a dually axle. i might have to say it's possibly of cab and chassis variety judging from the width and spring perches unless the massive drums are throwing me off. i'm gonna have to go with dana 80 also off hand without having a full view of the center section. could be a 14b though, top edge of the housing is a little telling...

[Edited on July 19, 2008 at 6:04 PM. Reason : damn, nm too late replying ]

7/19/2008 6:03:35 PM

HA

i read the post without seeing the edit... I was like DUDE DIDNT READ PG. 4. yeah adam8778 is going to swap drums for disks and hopefully do a 4-link on the rear of the MJ. btw, if anyone can hook him up with a (driver drop, methinks) front D60, they better holla

7/19/2008 6:17:19 PM

staring at that axle a little more has me curious...

-what did it come out of?

-it doesn't appear to have the ribbed drums most 14b's have, or is it just the pic?

-is it sitting upside down? the housing is offset to the opposite side of normal, but then i see what appear to be spring perches facing up. or, i guess they could just be what the u bolt plate sat on from whatever it came out of which would explain it.

7/19/2008 6:35:51 PM

-the drums are ribbed, in the normal area nearst the largest OD of the drum
- as for anything else, I've no clue... maybe adam will chime in tomorrow evening when he gets back from Asheville

7/19/2008 6:56:07 PM

anyone have any advice/input on an HX-40 as an upgrade?

7/20/2008 4:05:39 PM

Updates, and a minor(ok.. maybe not) setback


Got the front upper link mounts done. Sacrificed some weight savings for the extra bling from BTF. Also, im a rock crawler..... I dont feel like it is total overkill though on this truck with the torque it will (hopefuly) see in the future.






Pulled the ABS sensor, and the magnet was covered in metal shards. Not dust, large shavings.





The only signs of damage were on those ring gear bolts, the inside of the cover, and a little bit on the carrier that you can see in the last pic. We pulled the carrier, carrier bearings were perfect, pinion looked good. One thing I noticed was slight galling on the ring gear. Both the drive and coast sides. I have no idea where the metal came from. Possibly out of the limited slip during the above burnout??????

[Edited on July 21, 2008 at 11:51 PM. Reason : dsdsd]

7/21/2008 11:49:52 PM

not unless the limited slip broke, but you'd know it. worst the that burnout could have done was maybe empty some friction material out of the unit. i dunno, kinda got me stumped off hand too. only thing i can think of is it was hitting the front (pinion side) of the housing somehow or the carrier supports.

post a pic of the ring gear pattern. you're positive there wasn't anything that slipped out un noticed with the gear oil? nothing lodged in behind the ring gear?

if it turns out to be an issue and you're interested, i've got a dana 70hd in good shape with 4.56's i'm trying to get rid of. you probably don't want gears that deep unless you're planning to run some tall slicks though.

7/21/2008 11:59:25 PM

Here is the only pic i got.... Looks pretty blurry.

Makes the "galling" look worse than what it looked in real life, but gives a good idea. Pattern was pretty cyclic( as in the patterns of teeth which looked good and or bad)

Probably bad news..... I checked around the back of the piond, and in all the nooks and crannies, if ther ewas somethign large in there, it was pulerized.

7/22/2008 12:08:28 AM

so everyone PM adam8778 and ask him why he fucked up the upper link mount on my axle this evening. It's not like the rain set us back about a day's worth of working anyway


(we didnt confirm our measurements/alignment before we went a-weldin')

[Edited on July 22, 2008 at 11:59 PM. Reason : GRINDERGRINDER]

7/22/2008 11:58:52 PM

ok, so we are intending to fab a NHRA spec roll bar for the Lung. 4-points inside the cab (1 hoop + door bars), and probably 2 points in the bed (normal truck style). What am not sure of, and adam and I have both looked, is the rules on bolting through the top of the cab with 2-bolt plates for each of the rear down-tubes, and then again to the lower mounts on the frame. This makes it a hell of a lot easier for installing and uninstalling the bed and rollbar components.

I want to avoid having to either holesaw the cab and try to send the tube through and weld, or cut through a lexan rear window and do nearly the same thing-

7/24/2008 2:13:35 PM

can i ask what you're reasoning is for teching to nhra, what times you plan on running, and if you plan to actively compete in some sort of class? i ask because for several reasons you might be better off to conform to ihra instead if anything...

7/24/2008 3:14:31 PM

I think the main plan at this point is partially to have it stiffen up the rear frame, which is seeming kinda unnecessary, it is solid as hell. The most compelling reason to conform now(as far as cage), is to never have to do it again. That is the main idea. No telling how fast this thing might be, but it wont be for another 3-5 years probably. I don't know if he has any clue what he would be competing in.

That said, I guess we should check out IHRA rules. I think we looked at the NHRA rules, just because it was the first sanctioning body to come to mind to both of us. Maybe give a quick rundown of your reasons for saying that?


I will say Joey has large plans for this truck, and it will be a very fast truck when he is "done" with it, unless he loses interest.........

[Edited on July 24, 2008 at 3:26 PM. Reason : vcdf]

7/24/2008 3:25:59 PM

I guess my reference to any sanctioning body is simply to comply with some "safety standard". I dont plan on racing other than the occasional "test-n-tune" night just for shits and giggles.

our research:

Quote :

" When do I need a roll bar or roll cage, and what should it look like? A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram: "

as with what adam said, about 90% reason behind the rollbar is to have some triangulated support for the back-half, and my thoughts are why not make it as "correct" as possible while im still in the building stage.


with that said, I'd love to dip into the 11's within the next year or so... HA, hell, ive never been to a drag strip before - I've got some learning to do to say the least

7/24/2008 3:38:02 PM

ihra is pretty much the main sanctioning body around here. the only nhra track is the new one in charlotte. ihra is a little more relaxed than nhra. in addition, very few tracks (in fact none in nc that i know of) strictly enforce the rules for street vehicles or ones that aren't competing in a regular class (i.e. nothing more than test and tunes and the random annual event, etc.). the most they'll check you on is for a snell 85 or better helmet, no obvious fluid leaks, etc...

either way, as far as i know you'll be fine to bolt the rear kickers in. swing out/pin in door bars are acceptable as well down to at least 10.50 i believe, might even be 10.00.

you can hit up this guy for any specific questions though. a copy of sfi specs might be handy just for the hell of it too.

ihra competition department
mike baker
norwalk, oh
419-660-4206
mbaker@ihra.com

7/24/2008 3:47:42 PM

word

7/24/2008 4:09:00 PM

got the uppers in tonight.








Lowers are going to be outboard the frame.

7/25/2008 12:21:06 AM

here's a pretty close calc sheet for my suspension

7/25/2008 1:51:26 PM

i think you're definitely going to want to raise the IC and get the AS number somewhere around 100% or higher. put the IC up around the CG height on the Z axis and see where that give you. where abouts are you estimating the CG to be on the X axis? IC length looks like it's probably okay, but it wouldn't hurt it to be shortened a little.

anyway, just those minor changes should get you pretty close to a good setup. it should be able to be fined tuned as you add power within any adjustment on the control arm brackets and the shocks f/r.

7/25/2008 8:08:21 PM

So I updated the sheet, I'm closer than before with my real numbers (CG, etc.), and the AS is looking good. There will probably be one more iteration of the calc sheet before we actually finish the suspension.

7/28/2008 1:01:42 PM

yeah, that's looking pretty close for a driveway build.

7/28/2008 1:13:10 PM

Quote :

"for a driveway build."

hey now

7/28/2008 1:15:39 PM

BBR is right, one of few to put things in motion around here and I'm quite impressed. Why only one hole in the rear upper mounts though? only reason i question is that most drag app 4links have tons of holes and short arms compared to the long arms and less holes, usually 1, that you see in rock crawling.

damn fine work on the back half and im most serious about throwing some $ for a main hoop for my duster.

7/28/2008 10:59:27 PM

^^haha, no offense intended... just saying it's not going together on some fancy chassis jig.

^i would assume they're building some adjustability into the lowers, that's only where you really need it for something that's not a dedicated race machine.

7/29/2008 1:45:52 AM

^exactly what we did. The adjustable lowers will allow us to fine tune pinion angle and any wheelbase woes. I'll have adam post up our final 4-link sheet, i'll have to say it came out pretty close to 100% AS.

^^The control arms are way overkill, but a good street application imo. Other than the adjustable lowers, the only adjustable parts will be +/- 1/2" or so on the coilover mounts for fine tuning of the ride height.


Stay in tune

7/29/2008 8:04:17 AM

Right about an inch below ride height





There will obviously be some more bracing.

7/29/2008 10:17:40 PM

nice work you have going on here

7/29/2008 11:24:34 PM

Truck is now a roller. Sits high in the rear, but my fat ass brings it down nearly an inch standing on it. Should sit pretty damn level by the time we add fuel cell, bed, spare and batteries back there.

Turning out pretty good i think.

8/3/2008 11:43:24 PM

nice. getting to roller status feels good, but then you remember all the other crap that's left to do. if ya'll wouldn't mind hanging onto and giving me whatever files you have for the tubework, link mounts, etc. i've got something similar planned for my ram, and it'd be nice to have a template to go by.

Quote :

"The control arms are way overkill, "

well, of course... he's building a rockcrawler. nah, i wouldnt mind some overkill either will that kind of torque.

8/4/2008 12:02:15 AM

yeah, I've been telling adam from the beginning that this thing has the heart of a rock crawler

- and sure thing about the documentation and info, I'll whip up a packet of info whenever we get it roadworthy.

[Edited on August 4, 2008 at 8:41 AM. Reason : also, the rollbar has been postponed until a later date]

8/4/2008 8:38:03 AM

New shop toy.



Easily paid for itself in one day.


You know you would have done this too, dont lie.


DAAAAANG i busted my tailgate.




OK, we did make some progress on the truck. Started the bed mounts and it is really starting to look like a truck.

8/5/2008 11:20:10 PM

just bad ass

8/5/2008 11:55:59 PM

That yard crane is nice man, haha.

8/5/2008 11:56:01 PM

Quote :

"The control arms are way overkill, but a good street application imo"

Ain't no kill like overkill.

8/6/2008 12:20:02 AM

you niggers i love it

8/6/2008 12:23:03 AM

We call it teh CREEP. Crane jeep. Hurley dubbed it that.

Now i just want to find all grades of shit that needs carrying. hahah i wonder if it would be legal to drive like that??

Heaviest load felt like that 14 bolt, defintely heard the unidoby creaking on that one

8/6/2008 6:54:12 AM

unidoby

rear is going to have to drop some more

8/6/2008 8:16:31 AM

IT'S ALIVE


although it died 3 times this morning, each time under a WOT condition.... We never had to bleed the injectors last night when we first started it up, shit fired and ran. It had about 40 miles on it when it died this morning (cloverleaf of I-77 and I-40), i romped the shit out of it, started sputtering and died. waited 5 minutes and it fired right back up. runs fine under any throttle position below 3/4ish...... I'm thinking it's got a clogged fuel filter - someone chime in if they think differently

8/15/2008 9:44:24 AM

Here's a little update:

Before:



Finished with the back-half:

8/23/2008 12:11:31 PM

clean as hell, job well done

8/23/2008 3:45:06 PM

this is awesome... are the wheels and tires staying stock? (sorry if this has been stated)

8/23/2008 4:25:36 PM

I'm planning on getting a set of 17" pro comp 6007's whenever i get around to it:


but first I have to:
- get a set of used tires (hold me over till next spring) and get the front end aligned
- get a new headliner (and dash cover if possible
- do some minor body work, including welding up the fuel door, and flipping the tailgate latch to the inside of the bed
- redo my exhaust with a used 4" downpipe I purchased .
- prep and paint the truck Blitz black (possibly getting a new bumper cover and mirrors)

8/23/2008 5:38:51 PM

DROOOOOOOL

9/3/2008 10:51:59 AM

that is sexxxxxayyyy! did you get that?

9/3/2008 7:34:52 PM

Nah, I'm debating it, got a good price from a CompD member. Twould be the perfect start for a single that would spool halfway decent and put down some good numbers as well.

9/3/2008 10:39:40 PM

9/10/2008 3:31:07 PM

i know im padding, but someone might get something from it


gauges installed... did some normal hard launching and accelerating (no brake loading yet):

max boost = 17psi...probably get 20 with some heavy loading/launching
max EGT = 900...bust 1000 easily


time to modify the AFC housing, crank the boost to ~30psi, and fiddle with my fuel plate

(and move some weight to the rear )

9/16/2008 9:40:36 AM

forgot my most current pics in the last post (attn whore)

9/16/2008 10:35:23 AM

So I'm not the only guy out there with what i thought was a somewhat original frame design:





[note that this one is orders of magnitude better than mine in the racing sense]

9/17/2008 9:57:45 PM

bringing the dead back to life.........



since adam8778 has started a discussion about his cummins transmission, a few questions have risen in my mind, so you knowledgeable fools chime in-

Would I have any negative results if I were to replace the existing trans cooler and heat exchanger (located under the exhaust manifold), with a twin cooler setup in the bed? The system would have a thermostatic switch on the fans for temp regulation. I know right now it will drop 25deg when going from a standstill in traffic to cruising down the interstate.


would there be any bad effects of removing that heat exchanger thats under the exhaust manifold?

11/20/2008 12:08:00 PM